Cdfarabaugh
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Posts posted by Cdfarabaugh
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On 9/23/2023 at 8:14 AM, Farmall1066 said:
I think it’s going to be that way most everywhere! For how dry my area was, the beans never stopped growing, the corn never uncurled, but somehow we are looking at potentially 40 bpa beans or better, and 150 bpa corn or better. The way we looked in July, I would have said 10 bpa beans, and 50 bpa corn.
The dirt in between the rows, is still soft and mellow like the field cultivator just went through it yesterday, makes me wonder how tough that will make bean harvest? Normally the rain pounds the ground firm and has a layer of crust, but no rain, still have fluffy dirt.This is quite the testament to how incredible and resilient modern corn genetics are. I noticed this last year having a slightly less than bumper crop whenever we should of had a half crop at best.
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Phew, a bit testy in here. Personally I take a different view than most
1) if we had not or currently continue burning fossil fuels (in a meaningful way), are people willing to suffer the economic and quality of life consequences of it? I think you all know the answer to that question. Our current lifestyle takes a mind boggling amount of energy to work.
2) we are incredibly resilient and will make it work regardless. The world isn't just going to collapse. The only real devastating event occurring is on the coasts because some people think it's intelligent to build 2 million dollar homes at sea level and on sand bars.....
3) Eventually humans are going to cull our own numbers in a big way LONG before climate change. Technology, war, politics is eventually going to come together again and rear its ugly head. People are crazier than ever, and have even crazier ideals. The technology to kill people improves every.single.day. WW2 wiped out an entire generation from some countries and was fought with what we consider "antiques" now. With what the military industrial complexes pump out now, it will look like a skirmish
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6 hours ago, KWRB said:
As for batteries, I thought I heard that at one time their batteries were Deka batteries by East Penn. Don't know if that's still the case.
Pretty sure Exide makes them for Napa, but that could have changed.
Most NAPA's here are owned by one franchise with an independent and corporate store here and there. The one I used to deal with had an absolutely top notch guy that literally worked at napa since he was 18. By 40 he just couldn't take being whipped as manager anymore for the pay and went to the truck side. That quickly ended my association with that store. The next one (actually closer anyways is somewhat OK. One veteran, rest are a revolving door but at least they seem to order and deliver stuff in a timely manner.
My advice to anyone is do your research ahead of time and just give a number unless it's just normal basic stuff.
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44 minutes ago, HydroTek said:
Old numbers , but used to be 2k each for pump and motor -- just in parts
you sure the tractor is worth putting that much into it ?
Considering a tractor capable of a large frame Hydros speed control capabilities would run 6 digits cost wise, I'd say yes
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59 minutes ago, HydroTek said:
Yes, the spool will not come out the bottom -- there is a hole in the drawbar support, but is does not align
you can remove the 4 bolts that hold the support -- but can get the pto out fasterDrop the front end down in a ditch and you can have the pto out in 15 minutes or less
If doing that would pay to pop the pump off quick, pull the snap ring n look at the clutches.
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Wish I had a picture of the N13 high pressure fuel pump I got that had the bottom mount bolts stripped out right out of the ReNewed (ReNot) box. Stealership asks about $2000 and change for them Guess they didn't teach thread restoration techniques on the reman line.....
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38 minutes ago, HydroTek said:
400518 is the part number
little roller out of a needle bearingYou will not be able to feel the difference in the lever -- there is a difference, but it is really subtle
Quick check:
Remove the plug from the pto , on the bottom of the valve -- the parts may fall out
if not -- stick your finger in there and operate the linkage -- do you feel the spool move ?If the little pin is broken:
Pull the pto unit -- remove the adjusting "nut" from the top of the spool -- count the turns for re-install
Remove the bottom plug -- the large plug on top is not removed -- slip the spool out the bottomRepair the 400518 pin and slip the spool assembly in place -- thread the nut on the top, back to the recorded turns from earlier
Reinstall the pto unit -- you can reuse the gasket if it is not torn -- also if the rear of the tractor can be at least 2 feet higher -- the oil will not need to be drained
Using a pressure gauge is recommended for the final setting on the adjusting nut
Does the PTO unit have to be removed on a 66 series to get the spool out the bottom?
I know our 806 we did it on the tractor. That's the only tractor in my years that has done it and actually got a call today from a customer with a 1066 that this likely happened.
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11 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:
Honestly it was fairly new. Im not sure if the bin building company owned it or they were renting it. But from what I remember being there it wasn't clapped out junk and I had been there about 4 days before the accident.
I wouldnt have guessed it was being a legitimate jobsite, but it just jogged my memory seeing some of these sitting around farms that got picked up cheap.
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6 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:
There was something like that that happened around here 2 years ago.
Local Elevator was putting in a new bin, Wet tank, dryer, and support system to all that. Couple of guys were on a telescoping man lift. The lift had a problem that suddenly sent it surging forward. Got mixed up in the high voltage power lines. One guy jumped from the lift from above 20 or 25 ft. Broke both legs but survived. Other guy caught the power lines with his forehead. Took him to the hospital on life support. Next day they pulled the life support because all the brain scans showed no activity. He passed leaving a Fiance and a 8 month old.
Why I always question people buying old used man lifts for odd jobs. Would you want to trust your life high in the air to a 20 yr old rigged up POS? Call the rental place and get one for the day that is almost new.....
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19 hours ago, stronger800 said:
Modern alternator probably has 6-10 wires on it that talk to sensors in the tractor for rpm functions. 656 alternator has 3 wires talk to the battery and could be replaced by 1.
656 (diesel) would run without its alternator. Modern tractors won’t
A lot of newer alternators are regulated via a lin-bus from the engine controller.......so the alternator is almost another module itself
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Found that out on a seat for a 6400 Deere one time. A brand new complete seat was 1,100 no shipping. A&I was 1400 for a universal Grammer and truck freight.
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I'm gonna take another angle on this, how much does it cost to insure this crazy $$$ equipment?
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Pleasantly surprised to see made in USA. Think I'll be pushing them along more if that's the case.
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AG parts offers a remanufactured sleeved housing as well as a sleeve on its own if you or a machine shop has the capabilities.
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If that's a Deutsch connector I'd just repin it. Pins, sockets and tooling are easily available
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13 minutes ago, rrr4quality said:
Forgot the pictures!
Pretty sure it's just a 1/4" roll pin, roughly an inch long or so. Our local Ace hardware store stocks a TON of fasteners, pins, keys chain links etc. I picked up my last one there.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the factory one a double spiral pin?
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9 hours ago, CIHTECH said:
Or the OEM that is changing faster than they themselves can keep up with, in turn proper training falls by the way on a dealer level. Get a tech trained and next year completely revise the model line....over whelming to say the least.
Put yourself in the OEM's shoes, can you imagine what goes on behind the doors....??? I can't, from supply chain to ever changing emission reg's
Looking up a part for older tractors, prior 2000ish no problem. Want a part for your (anything from drawbar to front axle) and you have to sort thru 20 different options and serial breaks that make "0" sense to anybody.
I'll agree with that to a point......but blaming it on lack of training doesn't address it all.
Any machine specific training I have been through was good for familiarization, but when it came to digging into a problem it's the service info that pulls you through.
The culture of any dealer or repair facility needs to reinforce that. I don't care if a potentiometer, thermistor, pressure sensor etc is on whatever color of equipment, the theory of it is the same and has been for years. Reinforce the basics and the fact that you will have to do some reading and digging to make a plan of attack.
Unfortunately all that takes time, and time is money as well. It's an unfortunate byproduct of "progress" I guess.
Sheesh, what was this topic about, hopefully I did t get it off the rails 🤣
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3 hours ago, CIHTECH said:
The biggest problem I have seen so far is, owner with his new EST "Electronic Service Tool" as CNH calls it, self diagnoses problem. Comes to us, we are NOT a dealer, and wants us to order said part. We place a parts order everyday an order a lot of parts other than to support our shop. Lot of customers come to us because its easier than calling the dealer and trying to get them to understand what they want / need.
Takes part home and 1/2 hour later calls back stating that didn't fix it, I am bringing the part back....me nope it's yours pal you diagnosed the problem an ordered the part. I can't send it back....once you installed / plugged it up it's yours....
Next step is in the same sentence "what do you think is wrong, when can you get it in to fix it?"
At the end of the day OEM's have made a tool available to their customer base that their customers shouldn't have access too.,,my humble opinion only, so take it for what is worth.
Everyday we have customers (all brands) call us to "I want to run something by you" literally I spend hours on the phone per day.
If you don't have prior experience or working knowledge of the systems maybe you shouldn't be attempting the repair. Sure hooking up laptop and pulling code is simple, next step diagnosing the code can be a nightmare. Going thru a troubleshooting tree and dotting the "I's and crossing the 'T's takes time. Not singling out any one person....Rant over....
I'll agree with all that's said above, but also going to say a lot of dealer techs fall into that "parts cannon" trap as well. Some of the blame can be placed on inferior techs, but also some on customers because I don't feel they are comfortable paying money for diagnosis and want to see results.
Curious as to what others experience is, if a field tech comes out for a non warranty service call, installs a part and it does not solve the issue, how is it handled?
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I'm an A&I reseller (yes go and get your pitchforks ready...... 🤣). I'm also picky what I'll let people buy off me as yes, some stuff is crap.
I have had quite a few people inquire about belts for combines and such. Deere is getting pretty proud of some of the belts, and generally with some markup I can still come in about 25-30% cheaper with A&I, and compared to a stock order if not in the dealer network can get them faster (next day if in Grimsby and 2 days from Georgia).
Lots of Chinese crap out there I see as a cross reference on different v belt sites, hopefully it's not the case here.
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Great job! I love seeing people taking initiative to tackle projects and learn about their machinery.
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DeOxit is what I use for pins with questionable contact due to corrosion. The formulation I use leaves some protective coating behind.
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28 minutes ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:
On the mowers I have had, there is long shafts and short shafts. I have seen them get mixed up and tear the splines up in relatively short order because the area of splines touching is too small. We have used NH mowers a lot and wearing out the splines has been rare for us. Breaking the shaft has been more common than wearing them out.
On this model there is only 1 long shaft, I was sureto check that the first time. It's usually very nasty and rusty in there and I've made a point to apply lubricant to the splines on assembly, seemed to help some with longevity.
Should mention we have twisted them too, usually from finishing up and sucking in a wad of hay on the outside rotor accidentally, know enough now to be more careful of it .
All the modules are still original though knock on wood. Checking and changing the oil every year pays off.
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Our H7220 Discbine religiously wastes the very inside shaft splines every 2-3 years give or take. Further out there is one here and there that will go out too, usually can see the rotors getting an unusual amount of play between them or getting slightly out if time.
I've always attributed this to A) the fact that the inside shaft takes a cumulative load of all the others combined and
its a pretty acidic and rusty environment in there and dry rusty splineswill eat themselves up.
I know they make machined cutterbar spacers to remove sag and alignment issues.....is this an normal issue with a 9'cutterbar though?
Honestly love the machine, this is the only somewhat annoying issue with it. Is it unique to us?
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20 minutes ago, Gearclash said:
Ran my 3 BRs for a combined 35,000 bales, 90% of that was cornstalks. Run them right and they last okay. First one I bought with 1,500 bales on it and took that one to 23,000 bales on the original tine bars. BR tine bars are 3/4” Schedule 40 steel pipe. The tine bars in the 560 Specialty Crop are 1-1/6” steel shaft.
Run right is the key 🙃 I see how some people do corn stalks and they have no room to.complain if the baler gets tore up 😔
Falling off the wagon
in General Chat
Posted
Aside from the usual late teenage just turning 21 escapades, I went through a rough patch from 2009-2011 boozing trying to "find myself" during that mini economic depression after losing 2 really good jobs. Would look for bars that had specials every night of the week. Lots of college aged buddies yet then to partake in it with.
Pulled my head out of my rear and realized that was a dead end and focused on burning the candle at both ends and using that drinking time to work and get some monet in my pocket using my schooling a d experience. Still partied some but became less and less. I'm still bitter how much farther ahead I could be now if i had those lost years back.
Got married in 2017 and that pretty much ended it all having kids. I NEVER want to see my kids see me in a questionable state. I always looked up to my dad being sober and responsible, and I plan to do the same.