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Everything posted by Cdfarabaugh

  1. Juice brakes would about be a deal breaker for me. Also is it a straight 6 speed or a 6 plus (7 speed). Some straight sixes seem to have too steep of a 1st sometimes to get out of a soft spot. A 6 plus has a pretty low unsynchronized 1st that works good. Usually the high hole is OD so it will scoot good empty. Engine is good. See how good it starts cold, if it starts hard then misses chances are the injector solenoids are gunked up and will need replaced. I'd check the coolant too, dip a sample and see if SCA's are up. If not you may have antifreeze in the oil in the near future. If the doors are going bad I'd take a good look under the cab and see how bad it is. I'll guarantee you won't get it cheap enough to be worth fixing or replacing the cab eventually
  2. I read how bad the housing epidemic is in Canada......dear lord! How did it get so bad?
  3. I have 2 of their other seal installers, they're good quality.
  4. I actually work on mostly green stuff anymore. Unfortunately I'm not a computer and would need to look at a schematic to point you in the right direction. I envy guys who can memorize that stuff
  5. Pays to read the operators manual, any bobcat with pilot or electronic controls has an emergency boom release pull knob to lower it. Tees right into the cylinder up line and dumps to sump
  6. No sir, parent bore engine, needs bored for a press in service sleeve. Still some stuff out there, gotta look a bit harder than more common engines. Ferd/NH stuff using variants of those engines is keeping them alive parts wise
  7. Be patient and one will show up. Even though they're getting pretty old, there's tons of them out there. The one I'm fixing up in another post is a "southern belle" and needs help BUT it doesn't have a speck of rust. I'll fix wiring all day long before a crusty stuff.
  8. Honestly I think running a roadranger is no harder than a 2 speed, every 2 speed I've drove they can be finicky. Definitely easier than a brownie box. But your right so many had juice brakes and no air supply (which is dumb to me). Air is so superior in every way to those pos hydravac drum setups. My service truck has a "6 plus" with OD in the high hole and while I guess it's drivable the synchros in it suck with it being tempermental. If I ever find a donor it's getting a 9 speed.
  9. Never understood the love affair with 2 speed rears back in the day. Should just have had the small road ranger 9/10 speeds in them. To this day I'm not trusting of 2 speed rears since I had a motor go out and the actuator get stuck between lo and hi and end up sitting.
  10. Best part about a heui engine is almost impossible to burn one up from no oil. Without oil pressure they use up what's in the starting reservoir in about 10 seconds and promptly die 😉
  11. In the grand scheme electronics that are much more primitive and simpler to deal with than modern stuff. Honestly the only common things that stops those E engines (short of stuff that would affect a mechanical engine too) is cam sensor, low ICP pressure, or low ECM voltage. All these mechanical fuel injection components are getting salty too. I'll bet that big Bosch inline is tickling 3 grand after a full extortion by a fuel shop.
  12. In 04 they switched to 24 valve heads, 2nd generation Siemens HEUI injectors, different HEUI pump and VGT turbo with EGR. I guess the bare block would still have some similiarities Nah, that stuff is easily available and reasonable for air brakes. Just bought a bunch of stuff for a '92. Juice brakes yes, probably a little harder.
  13. Funny thing is what do you think controls the transmission and hitch in said MX tractor?
  14. How come I don't come across stuff like that! Fuel pinchers suck, but better than feeding a 427 I'd put a receiver on them and put them to work with a trailer behind them.
  15. Those saying they're junk and complaining about electrical issues must be driving around 40 year old cars trucks and tractors then...... The electronics on these engines is about as simple as they come compared to a lot of stuff that vintage or newer! Best medium duty engine on the market during that time......period. Wet sleeve, robust overbuilt design and easy to work on. Parts are plentiful and reasonable with aftermarket support. Most common issues are injectors stiction due to not following oil change intervals, electrical issues (a lot of which can be traced to inadequate clean 12v power and ground feeds.....those HEUI injectors take a lot of power to click off) cam sensor failure resulting on no start/intermittent stalling, camshaft lifter doggone failure wiping cam out, injector o ring failure putting oil in fuel and an occasional high pressure oil pump failure or leaking. As @dale560said ServiceMaster 1708 is free and just need a com adapter to communicate to pull faults/data/or do bi directional tests. I would avoid the 97-98 "3 box" control system. They have an ECM, an IDM (injector driver module like 7.3 powerstrokes) and a personality module which sets the torque and HP all separate. They're sort of oddball only being used a short time therefore not well supported. After mid 98 or earluly 99 they went to the "1 box" or DLC system which has the more common large ECM mounted on the left side of the engine that does it all. Lots of HP ratings from 175 to I think 275 hp. 230 is about as hot as they get without recommended hard parts upgrades (injectors, steel crown pistons and turbo) You can buy different rated ECU's and there are tuners available to wake them up. I'd gladly take these over ANY piece of crap that's on the market today (which unfortunately the 6.7 cummins is about the only medium duty engine left) Once you get to '04 emissions 466's it's a different animal, but still not too awful bad. You can guess what happens after 2007 😞 Phew......I typed a book my apologies
  16. One things for sure, unlike old tractors of that vintage the combines have really come down in price. A fellow can get in a nice xx20 deere or 14xx/16xx IH combine for pretty reasonable now. Well supported aftermarket wise still yet too if they do need some help.
  17. Unfortunately unless one works on off road equipment, they'll never see it. Honestly even the mechanical off road stuff is slowly being pushed to secondary duties anymore and doesn't see the hours. Also, the fuel injection repair business has been treated almost like a freemasonry cult making sure only a select few ever gained the knowledge to work on it. It's always "don't touch, send it out" and now we are seeing that qualified people are few and far between to work on it as the older guys retire out I will say I'd NEVER want to to teach very young students how to service an injection pump. They'll misplace stuff from a simple job......I'd hate to see keeping track of all the small parts from a pump
  18. Seems most llmedium duty IH trucks are done this way with the outer being an "L". This truck is the same.
  19. I'm not worried about warranty being a 1992. Also if I was wealthy enough to afford a huck bolt setup I'd be buying a new truck.....
  20. I guess the 2nd question to elaborate on is how long should the inner reinforcement piece of frame be covering the splice? The outer will be a double frame so its going the whole way to the rear. One challenge is going to be the cost and finding an outfit to get this stuff fabricated. Back in 2015 I double framed my service truck from the rear of the cab to the back due to rust jacking (but didn't lenghten) and had an outfit PG Adams make them. I think with truck freight it was $675. I'll bet it would be double that now 😞 there's places capable of making that stuff here but they usually just blow walk ins for stuff like this off.
  21. Our own 14 foot single axle dum is set up like this and it's annoying as the bed height comes down when dumping, eventually only about 2 feet off the ground at full up. I'm not sure why they were built like this, but a lot of farm trucks around were. This design also eliminates the possibility of having a hitch receiver
  22. I hear so many methods for the splice cut, but always figured as long as it's not straight up and down. I like your method though! Do you weld the joint with 7018 or go with a higher strength rod?
  23. Shame Gasboy quit making these, pumped a lot of fuel with these. Had 2 at the farm and 2 for the bus fuel tanks.
  24. Honestly this is a step up as it prevents cap movement and fretting due to the fractures holding the cap on better. Gotta be VERY careful you don't install backwards or mismatched, if it's torqued down and not matched it will ruin the clean break and the rod is junk They can still be resized, just need sized out for a thicker bearing insert.
  25. I'm utilizing my student labor to resurrect a '92 4700 IH for my cousin to install a 14' steel dump body. Southern truck with no rust, but she's been beat. DTA360, air brakes and 5x2, will be a nice little truck after we give the brake system a going over. There is only 136" of frame behind the cab now. Will need 162". So looking at adding a little over 2 feet andmoving the axle back. I'm figuring on staggering the seam on the added on portion with the outer double frame sleeve extended back and an inner portion added inside the main rail for strength at the splice. Correct me if my figuring is wrong. What I'm most unsure about is what is the max length allowed between carrier bearings on the driveline? I'm hoping to get away with just one carrier bearing, but I have heard anywhere from 5-7' being the maximum. 5' is gonna be dang close, 7' will be no problem. The slip joint on the rear shaft is roached so it needs redone anyways. Gotta love 2023 where resurrecting old stuff is no longer a hobby and the only way you can put a decent truck together for under 20k......
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