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Everything posted by Cdfarabaugh

  1. Phew, a bit testy in here. Personally I take a different view than most 1) if we had not or currently continue burning fossil fuels (in a meaningful way), are people willing to suffer the economic and quality of life consequences of it? I think you all know the answer to that question. Our current lifestyle takes a mind boggling amount of energy to work. 2) we are incredibly resilient and will make it work regardless. The world isn't just going to collapse. The only real devastating event occurring is on the coasts because some people think it's intelligent to build 2 million dollar homes at sea level and on sand bars..... 3) Eventually humans are going to cull our own numbers in a big way LONG before climate change. Technology, war, politics is eventually going to come together again and rear its ugly head. People are crazier than ever, and have even crazier ideals. The technology to kill people improves every.single.day. WW2 wiped out an entire generation from some countries and was fought with what we consider "antiques" now. With what the military industrial complexes pump out now, it will look like a skirmish
  2. Pretty sure Exide makes them for Napa, but that could have changed. Most NAPA's here are owned by one franchise with an independent and corporate store here and there. The one I used to deal with had an absolutely top notch guy that literally worked at napa since he was 18. By 40 he just couldn't take being whipped as manager anymore for the pay and went to the truck side. That quickly ended my association with that store. The next one (actually closer anyways is somewhat OK. One veteran, rest are a revolving door but at least they seem to order and deliver stuff in a timely manner. My advice to anyone is do your research ahead of time and just give a number unless it's just normal basic stuff.
  3. Considering a tractor capable of a large frame Hydros speed control capabilities would run 6 digits cost wise, I'd say yes
  4. If doing that would pay to pop the pump off quick, pull the snap ring n look at the clutches.
  5. Wish I had a picture of the N13 high pressure fuel pump I got that had the bottom mount bolts stripped out right out of the ReNewed (ReNot) box. Stealership asks about $2000 and change for them Guess they didn't teach thread restoration techniques on the reman line.....
  6. Does the PTO unit have to be removed on a 66 series to get the spool out the bottom? I know our 806 we did it on the tractor. That's the only tractor in my years that has done it and actually got a call today from a customer with a 1066 that this likely happened.
  7. I wouldnt have guessed it was being a legitimate jobsite, but it just jogged my memory seeing some of these sitting around farms that got picked up cheap.
  8. Why I always question people buying old used man lifts for odd jobs. Would you want to trust your life high in the air to a 20 yr old rigged up POS? Call the rental place and get one for the day that is almost new.....
  9. A lot of newer alternators are regulated via a lin-bus from the engine controller.......so the alternator is almost another module itself
  10. Found that out on a seat for a 6400 Deere one time. A brand new complete seat was 1,100 no shipping. A&I was 1400 for a universal Grammer and truck freight.
  11. I'm gonna take another angle on this, how much does it cost to insure this crazy $$$ equipment?
  12. Pleasantly surprised to see made in USA. Think I'll be pushing them along more if that's the case.
  13. AG parts offers a remanufactured sleeved housing as well as a sleeve on its own if you or a machine shop has the capabilities.
  14. If that's a Deutsch connector I'd just repin it. Pins, sockets and tooling are easily available
  15. Pretty sure it's just a 1/4" roll pin, roughly an inch long or so. Our local Ace hardware store stocks a TON of fasteners, pins, keys chain links etc. I picked up my last one there. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the factory one a double spiral pin?
  16. I'll agree with that to a point......but blaming it on lack of training doesn't address it all. Any machine specific training I have been through was good for familiarization, but when it came to digging into a problem it's the service info that pulls you through. The culture of any dealer or repair facility needs to reinforce that. I don't care if a potentiometer, thermistor, pressure sensor etc is on whatever color of equipment, the theory of it is the same and has been for years. Reinforce the basics and the fact that you will have to do some reading and digging to make a plan of attack. Unfortunately all that takes time, and time is money as well. It's an unfortunate byproduct of "progress" I guess. Sheesh, what was this topic about, hopefully I did t get it off the rails 🤣
  17. I'll agree with all that's said above, but also going to say a lot of dealer techs fall into that "parts cannon" trap as well. Some of the blame can be placed on inferior techs, but also some on customers because I don't feel they are comfortable paying money for diagnosis and want to see results. Curious as to what others experience is, if a field tech comes out for a non warranty service call, installs a part and it does not solve the issue, how is it handled?
  18. I'm an A&I reseller (yes go and get your pitchforks ready...... 🤣). I'm also picky what I'll let people buy off me as yes, some stuff is crap. I have had quite a few people inquire about belts for combines and such. Deere is getting pretty proud of some of the belts, and generally with some markup I can still come in about 25-30% cheaper with A&I, and compared to a stock order if not in the dealer network can get them faster (next day if in Grimsby and 2 days from Georgia). Lots of Chinese crap out there I see as a cross reference on different v belt sites, hopefully it's not the case here.
  19. Great job! I love seeing people taking initiative to tackle projects and learn about their machinery.
  20. DeOxit is what I use for pins with questionable contact due to corrosion. The formulation I use leaves some protective coating behind.
  21. On this model there is only 1 long shaft, I was sureto check that the first time. It's usually very nasty and rusty in there and I've made a point to apply lubricant to the splines on assembly, seemed to help some with longevity. Should mention we have twisted them too, usually from finishing up and sucking in a wad of hay on the outside rotor accidentally, know enough now to be more careful of it . All the modules are still original though knock on wood. Checking and changing the oil every year pays off.
  22. Our H7220 Discbine religiously wastes the very inside shaft splines every 2-3 years give or take. Further out there is one here and there that will go out too, usually can see the rotors getting an unusual amount of play between them or getting slightly out if time. I've always attributed this to A) the fact that the inside shaft takes a cumulative load of all the others combined and its a pretty acidic and rusty environment in there and dry rusty splineswill eat themselves up. I know they make machined cutterbar spacers to remove sag and alignment issues.....is this an normal issue with a 9'cutterbar though? Honestly love the machine, this is the only somewhat annoying issue with it. Is it unique to us?
  23. Run right is the key 🙃 I see how some people do corn stalks and they have no room to.complain if the baler gets tore up 😔
  24. I thought the netwrap out front was the better idea. Easy to load and easy to see. I'll agree with the megawide pickup shortcomings. It's very nice in good conditions but those augers cause issues in baleage hay, or if you grab a wad on the end on the edge. Could be built heavier in the drive too. For 80%of conditions it is adequate, but I can see it getting tore up in corn stalks or someone who has crap hay fields digging in the dirt with the pickup.
  25. It's not too much play,but dang if I can remember the spec. If its like the newer ones that roller is adjustable on an eccentric. I'd double check timing as well, although usually that breaks the shear pin when the protection dog kicks out . Also check your clearance between the knotter frame and needle, it should just barely rub and is manipulated with adjusting bolts on the needle holder pipe.
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