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    New Prague, mn
  • Interests
    Food plotting, flying, motorcycles, old farm equipment

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Jay66's Achievements


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  1. Thanks Bdse25, the diagram I have in the IT book didn’t show that very clearly,thanks that’s the info I needed jay
  2. To add to your serial numbers I have 31845 806 with M&W turbo, 10000hrs and counting

    1. 1967806


      Thanks for the number. Got it added. What part of the state is New Prague? We were just in Minnesota last week north of Blue Earth.

    2. Jay66


      Missed this one, New Prague is 40 miles South of Minneapolis 


      Only 3 years late!

  3. JK 1206 sorry forgot to welcome you to the forum, I’m also new here, working on a 806 turbo, mainly mechanical restoration and some cosmetic. i used Brillman for my wiring harness, initially my old harness seemed good until I looked at it closely, it was cobbled, once you decide on fenders, than just order the complete harness and get 5% off your order. My mistake when ordering my front harness I didn’t realize I had a voltage regulator ( located below steering wheel center panel) which requires 10 DN instead of 10 SI harness I found the pump timing was off 6 deg. Luckily the pump was just rebuilt Pulled the injectors ( because I didn’t know there history) the seats were hammered and the opening get pressure was 1900 instead of 2400. Radiator cap replaced ( wouldn’t hold pressure ) thermostat was bad all hoses replaced and case ih seems to have better quality as I said earlier I also had to replace fuel pump return to tank line, the line was rubbing on heat shield Found high low range shifter sloppy, new vertical shaft and actuating arm, located below platform My turbo bearings were bad and the seals were leaking, so New turbo and some other parts sourced thru Genuine Diesel out of Red Oak Iowa, Stan is a great guy, just plan on a lengthy lead time I’m also trying to do this right and not cheap out, so this is what I’ve done so far and really glad I have spent the money to do it right, but after I get all this done who knows if she will really run noticeably better. I will feel better about it though
  4. I have found the case ih fender bolts are much stronger than after market. Having said that the ih sells a cluster gage set for 350.00 that is no better than the 150.00 dollar after market. i bought all my hoses and rubber products from ih dealer, cost was equivalent to after market, I now get a 10% discount from them, what I have bought from ih dealer seems to be good quality if not better than after market. i have 10:00-16 8 bolt front rims going with Firestone 4 ribs on front and 18.4 - 38 23 deep tread for rear, I have soft soil in CRP and the food plots
  5. Ih 806 diesel with alternator front wiring harness routing. New Brillman harness, trying to figure out if the harness runs from the alternator vertically to around the valve cover then back to the tank wire stays. My wiring was just strung along the side of the block and not over the top of the tank. I have a M&W turbo ( which was toast) so looking for the original routing and will use aircraft hose rubber heat shielding in turbo area. this tractor is about a 10,000 hr tractor, so I’m going through it front to back, pretty straight, good paint, cobbled wiring,. Pump is freshly rebuilt, pulled the injectors, the seats were hammered, 1900 PSI instead of 2400 and dripping. The question is with the injector removal the number one cylinder coolant tube came out how tough of a job is it to install a new one( yes the antifreeze was drained because the hoses are all being replaced) High low range shifter has a lot of slop, removed platform and found vertical shifter shaft and pinch bolted actuating arm are the problem had to leave because of time constraints, do both the shaft and the actuating arm normally need replacement. I’m asking only because I’m headed to order parts before I go back to work on it in a couple of days. I don’t mind spending the money to do it right, the farm is 150 miles away and would like to get the right parts and save travel time. thanks all for any help
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