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Everything posted by cbfarmall

  1. Maybe the tractor isn't quite level, maybe there's stuff settled in the case, maybe it didn't quite all drain. My guess is 10 gallons is for a completely dry case w/ belt pulley. If the trans sounds good, I wouldn't fret. Just let it drain to the proper level and forget about it
  2. The W9 has 2 or 3 drains. Did you open them all?
  3. Make sure the housing is clean where the thermostat fits in. That long neck on the thermostat acts as a sleeve valve of sorts and needs to be able to move freely.
  4. Pay attention to the gaskets and shims. They can be swapped but will not work in the wrong locations. One gasket has a pair of holes for hydraulic passages the other is open. I had to make a couple of my own to get the spool to center in the pressure port (as described in the instructions.) Once I was done, I put air pressure to the port and tested function by hand. Worked a charm and less messy. Chris B.
  5. I'll be surrounded by old saws and wearing an IH hat.
  6. My buddy and I are headed there as well. No tractors, though. We bring a truck load of old saws and set up with those guys. Been looking forward to this for the last 2 years. Plenty to do and see at this show.
  7. Looking forward to seeing those monster fenders get some paint. I recall manhandling the fenders on my W9 and they were a handful, to say the least.
  8. Kenny Baker (R2D2), David Prowse (Vader), Peter Mayhew (Chewie). The others have already been named.
  9. Those hubs are standard or did IH make different versions? I'm not overly fond of the clunky standard tractors, like my W9, but the 660 is a looker.
  10. I am ignorant regarding these tractors. What exactly are those huge hubs. I figure the planetaries are buried under them, but am I seeing the wheel centers and weights? That picture is making me want to find one of these tractors.
  11. My F20 has matching serial numbers and it's a very, very late model. Tag, engine, frame rail all match.
  12. Loaders are real handy for breaking down tires. If I hadn't been doing rears for my 450 w/ fast hitch I would have tried that instead.
  13. A quick google search seems to show that Fordsons just let the crank dangle out there. IHC 10-20s use a hanger bolted to a radiator tank bolt.
  14. There's more than one way to skin a cat. However, unless I've already been in the tractor I like to replace the old clamp bolts. Lots of ways for water and dirt and mud to collect around those and most I've found are rotted through to one degree or another. Some of these letter series are over 80 years old at this point. For me personally, I can't see painting rims without dismounting them. How else will you get them clean? Tires are another matter...
  15. Those old factory wide fronts may not be super desirable but they work and sure give the old M a unique look. I like it. Just don't set it in the forward position. The tractor will look ridiculous and take the whole county to get turned around. Wouldn't mind having one of those back in my collection.
  16. The front cover is open to the oil pan. No need to drill a hole.
  17. Bow saws also allowed the user to stand up while bucking the log on the ground and the spurs also helped keep the chain out of the dirt. The spurs are an absolute necessity for a bow.
  18. The new PTO seal I put in my KT17 years ago started leaking after a few years. Turns out it was loose in the case and spinning with the crank. I installed a new seal with Permatex #1. Been a couple years now and it's hanging in there. Flywheel seal hasn't given me trouble yet. However, my dad's M18 popped the PTO seal out, puked all the oil out while running and ruined the crankshaft. That was a fun repair. Chris B.
  19. Depends where you look. For instance, in my garage I have 5 or 6 on saws and another half dozen hanging on the wall. At my buddies, he has probably 20 bows on saws and mostly old Poulans.
  20. You're not going to find 1/2" or 5/8" in any online store like McMaster Carr. Maybe Ebay. All my old, big pitch chain has been acquired through private sellers, an Ebay auction or 2, and just plain luck. This is where knowing fellow collectors and making horsetrades comes in. An old saw shop might have a roll covered in dust, you just have to ask.
  21. If the shaft is worn no seal will stop that leak. Speedi-sleeves may be possible, but depending on the pump you may run into clearance issues. Seems pump replacement is the only true fix.
  22. Fantastic looking. I just mowed with my 656 yesterday and was imagining it with a 291 like yours.
  23. Also, I see you haven't actually pulled the tractor to verify what seal you have. The crank needs to match the seal but guys have had mixed success using the felt seal and retainer in place of the rubber seal. Good luck.
  24. I would insist on seeing pictures of actual seal kit before shelling out money. Seems everybody still makes the felt seals for the early diesels and, out of laziness and ignorance, says it fits all those motors. On the other hand, if Reliance has started making the rubber seal, I need one for my 450D.
  25. It was a heck of a storm, same one blew through my place that levelled Iowa. Fuel cap is new, first thing I changed. What you're seeing in the bowl is fuel and water moving thru fast while I was draining it. It cleared up after a bit.
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