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Rescue11 last won the day on June 11 2018

Rescue11 had the most liked content!

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About Rescue11

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/10/1989

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    My wife and daughter, Farming!!! , custom projects, metal fab, Fire/EMS. All things IH

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  1. Just an update... Hasn't moved. Its still in the same spot as the last time they took the picture lol
  2. Skulking around on TractorHouse I happened upon this gem. I know they up sized the rear tires to 18.4 42s, but doesn't that seem a little excessive for the front tires? I would think that would throw the ratio off a heck of a heap! Neat looking non the less. Gee, the first 1066 being auctioned currently makes this one a bargan! https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/192868533/1973-international-1066
  3. Bitty, Thank you, best of luck with a valve! SDman, the answer I was needing. Thank you so much. There is not a place that I have found that gives that information. In fact it doesn't seem to even be a conversation anywhere.. Thank you thank you thank you!
  4. Looking at buying a joystick operated valve to put on our 8930 to run a loader with. Owner of valve were interested in says it was used on a 4620, and should work on tractors all the way up to a 4960. Will this work on our 8930? Dont know where to begin on this. Thanks
  5. I'm an idiot, yes, 3650. Thanks Dale, we will have a look. Appreciate it
  6. Grandpa has an 8650 IH softcore baler he's having an issue with. One of the two arms which bring the twine down to the bale let's the twine loose after every third bale. Hasn't given any issue all year, but now requires him to get out to re-attach the twine often. Any ideas? I don't bale, never have, know very little about it. Thanks
  7. Betting on Carbon Monoxide, this was taken just before the end
  8. Have any luck? Sorry for being absent, yes I'm an hvac and refrigeration guy, wasn't going to mention that earlier, but Jmech let the cat out. lol... Yes, over charging/incorrect charging proceedures can be an issue, and could be this 1, however your suction pressure still seems slightly low not totally eliminating an over charge, but is more indicative of a restriction or metering problem. Yes, taking a pressure and temperature reading at the suction line will be helpful. Look on your suction gauge or T/P chart, convert your pressure to temperature And Then subtract your line temperature from your converted temperature from suction pressure. If the difference is too much higher than say...15, your undercharged which raises the super heat too high meaning the refrigerant is removing too much heat from the conditioned space, carrying it back to the compressor, and then to the condenser which under most conditions cannot remove enough heat from the refrigerant to cause a subcooled situation further reducing the refrigerants heat carrying capacity the next time through. After several (fast occurring) cycles through the refrigeration process, the issue compounds. This can also give you a high discharge (highside tap on compressor, high pressure vapor) pressure because of the superheated vapor, a confusing notion that pressure and temperature are relative, which are except in cases of heating or cooling a gas/liquid above or below its respective position on the temperature pressure chart, thus superheating and subcooling. Thus, resulting in your wide compression ratio.. Ultimately the aforementioned will lead to poor cooling performance, a breakdown of the refrigerant oil turning it acidic, resulting in bearing/compressor failure. Now, all that said... an expansion valve is actually supposed to be tested by subcooling and not superheat. But for reasons that escape me, the automobile and agricultural a/c world does not provide a tap on the liquid line to obtain such reading. So its still somewhat of a guess, but more educated than not since your getting a quantity of heat coming back from the evaporator. 30-40 degree superheat is way too high. Let me know
  9. If too many people had their dirty dick beaters around a orschelns can of refrigerant or a previous tech didn't pull a good vacuum, you could have non condensables in your system (air and moisture). With a clean evap, condenser, and adequate air flow that leaves the refrigerant circuit. If you're running at 270/28 that's a relatively wide split. 70 degree air is ok if you're cab is 90°, but without that number its hard to say really. A temperature reading at the service valves would be good to see where your refrigerant is hanging out. It could be under charged, you could have non condensables, or you could have an expansion valvd hanging up, oil foaming, or possibly even an issue with the equalizer spring. If you put your manifold back on, and get a temp reading of atleast the suction line right next to the service valve i can tell you if the evap is starving. Other thing, are you able to stop flow of coolant to cab heater? That might be an issue?? And you are positive that the condenser, radiator, and all other coolers are completely spotless? Sometimes they look clean but aren't. Even if it means taking out the fan and fan shroud, washing for several hours... there can be an absolute ton of dirt that hides in those coils stopping air flow.
  10. Thank you! ILL try that
  11. wanting to put a 4th remote (oem style) on our 8930, whats the best way dollar wise to go? Is there a place where a guy can order a kit? Or salvage yard or.....?? Thanks, Trent
  12. To hellk with the old farm equipment, let's see that horse drawn engine!
  13. Rescue11

    8920 Magnum

    As in a 24 row 30" planter? A 34 foot turbo till? Was he pulling them down the road? No disrespect but that seems a bit out there
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