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gras

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  1. Thanks Russ600. I'll take a further look into that to see what changes or not. I just don't want to fork out hundreds of dollars for a head that won't work without lots of changes. I'm still debating whether to just get my head repaired. The last time I had a quote done it would be $1,250 to furnace weld it and have it ready to drop onto the block. This included putting the valves and springs back on.
  2. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the cylinder head part numbers for an I/H TD-6 (part # 8228 and part # 260869) I have a cracked cylinder head and according to the parts book and my serial number, my TD-6 requires the #260869. What is interesting is that my head does not have either of these numbers on it. The only number I can find is GH 66A. I found a guy that has a head with the 8228 number stamped on it but I need to know the difference before I commit to it. Any information will help.
  3. Thanks for the feedback guys. I've been leaning to just fixing it and I thought I'd just put that out there. The rest of the engine seems to be fine. It was running great when I discovered the head issue. So I'll head in that direction and have my head fixed. Found a place in Blaine, MInnesota that will furnace weld the cracks. Haven't had any luck yet finding another used one.
  4. I have an I/H TD6 that has a cracked head. Is there an alternative motor that I could get the head off that would work on my TD6? The reason I'm asking is I don't think mine is the original head for this motor. There is no original casting number on the head and one area on the bottom of the head has been ground down. Could I replace the whole motor with a Farmall M. Just looking for some thoughts?
  5. Man if I didn't live so far away I would buy that in a heart beat but too much to haul it to northern Minnesota.
  6. Thanks. I'll take a look at this and see what's up.
  7. So what is the lock and stitch method. Never heard of it before so now I'm curious. Any videos or pictures out there that show it?
  8. Thanks Mike. That is very helpful information. Maybe I'll try replacing the seal without lifting the motor out first. If I have to I can always pull it out. I'll check out the gasket and make sure I get the right one. I believe Steiner Tractor carries them.
  9. Yeah I'm not a big fan of working in the dirt either. I want to do this right so I will take my time and work on it when I can. Hey, if it takes a couple of years no big deal. Better right then not. Thanks for the feedback guys. As soon as I start the major project I'll start posting some pictures. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions.
  10. Hey Louie. I do have the original service and parts manual for this TD6. Came with it when my dad got it. So that's not an issue. My main question is how hard is it to pull the engine? I have read through the manual already but I just would like a little feedback. I will surely have to do this in stages as the machine sits at my cabin which is 300 miles away. Plus most of the work will be done by me. I do have a John Deere 60 with a loader on it to pull the engine. Hopefully that's enough. Do you think $1250 or there about's is a fair price to furnace weld this beast. I'm not too ex
  11. I haven't had a chance to search youtube to see if anyone has uploaded a video on pulling the engine. I will take a look this week. I was hoping someone would chime in here and give me their advice. Maybe someone yet will.
  12. So I need some advice from someone with way more experienced then me. I have an I/H TD-6 that has a cracked head. I found a place that will furnace weld it here in Minnesota. They said it would run around $1,250 to get it ready to drop back on. I also discovered that the rear crank seal is leaking. So my question is this. How hard is it to remove and reinstall the head on these things? I have experience with smaller two stroke engines but have yet to attack something like this. I do have all the original books so I'm good there. Removing things is easy as you all know. It's putting t
  13. Yeah I should have put pictures in. I will take some next week when I'm there and post them. It does have a blade and a carriage cover on it. It's currently in northern Minnesota. When running it steered fine and ran perfectly. Just the whole cracked head thing is a bummer. Thanks for the feedback.
  14. I believe the reason it had a knock to it was due to the cracked head and the anti-freeze leaking around the piston. Up until then it ran great with not even a slight knock. I will take the pan off soon and check. So what is the going price for a TD-6 with a bad head? I've asked around have gotten very low figures and some decent ones. I'm not looking for the world on this but if I do sell it I want to get something for it. Any ideas in case I go that route??????
  15. I always had oil in it. As I said earlier, the rear crank seal started to leak so I before I ran it the last couple of times I always topped it off. I don't think I ran it enough with the gasket leaking to ruin the bearings. I'll know more once I get a chance to look at it again. Just wanted some feedback from the group. If anything I'll put it up on craigslist or even part it out on my own. I certainly don't want to send it to the scrap pile yet.
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