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About MWZad

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  1. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Good morning guys, so after all this I can finally say that the hydraulics are finally working in both directions. Yesterday I ended up removing the 2 way valve from under the gas tank from the threaded union. I removed the 3 bolts that held the top on and inspected the inside of the valve. Very simple set up for sure. All components, were clean and the O ring was intact. On the top of the threaded shaft there was two unique nuts. I removed one of them and reassembled the valve. Now the remote rod can move the valve in both directions. I don't know if removing the nut did anything or by me taking the shaft of the valve out it freed something that was stuck or limiting it. Either way, glad to finally have it completed. I just wanted to say thank you all for the help, I truly appreciate and wouldn't have done it without you guys!
  2. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Hey guys, update from today. Wish I had better news for you guys. First off I want to thank everyone for all the help, I truly appreciate it. I was able to move the suction line into the bottom of the belly pump and I added an inline 1,000 PSI relief valve to the system, added two new pioneer quick couplers to the rear of the tractor and I replaced the 30W with regular hy-tran. Unfortunately I still have the same result, power in only 1 direction, swap the hose sets to the couplers and same result, power only in 1 direction. From this point I am totally lost. Im guessing it has to be something with the christmas tree valve because everything else is brand new! Here is a couple pictures of my changes to the hydraulic set up. Also, I took the inspection plate out of the bottom of the belly pump, and the belly pump is still intact, with a spinning countershaft in place.
  3. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    So last night I decided to go to tractor supply on my way home from work and pick up the supplies I needed to move the hydraulic suction line to where the bottom drain plug is on the belly pump. I picked up all 1/2" pipe fittings and a couple t's. I was wondering because the suction line looks bigger than the supply line on the live pump, should I have went with 3/4" pipe fittings and t's? And also, when I remove the suction hose to the current connection it is on behind the liftall lever do I just throw a cap on the 90 elbow? Thanks again guys!
  4. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    So at work after lunch, I read this article more and I decided to go plumb the suction into the bottom of the drain like DMV suggested. I am going to get all the materials after work and try to make use of what daylight I have left here in the northeast. With the suction line, I will have to get a longer hose than the red one that is currently on the tractor. Is there a certain size to go with? It looked to me like it was bigger than .5" but I could be wrong. Also I am going to pick up some hydraulic fluid. If I drain out the 30W out of the bottom of the pump can I fill the system with the hydraulic fluid with no problems or is there a certain way I should go about flushing the system? Thank you for the help once again, I would be completely lost if it was not for all of your help! -Mike
  5. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Thanks for all the help Dave! Can I ask you another quick question. If I really didn't want to go through all the time to change everything out to just get down pressure could I just take the top t and line sets out, cap the top of both cylinders and just have them single acting with float down. The only thing I am using the tractor for is a 5' brush hog? Just a thought
  6. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Ok, once I move the suction line to the bottom of the belly pump can I take the 3rd end of the pressure relief valve to the connection on the pump next to the liftall handle where the suction used to be attached to or no?
  7. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Ok thanks for the updates. I will work on getting the suction line lower into the belly pump and changing out the 30w with new lighter hydraulic fluid. As far as the pressure relief valve is there a certain one that I should be looking for? I did some browsing online and not quite sure what I am looking at. Also just add it before the 2 way valve on the supply line from the live pump? Thanks!
  8. Farmall M 3 Point hydraulic hook up

    Thank you for your reply. Funny you said that. I have noticed that when I disconnect the couplers I do see a lot of foam in the lines and I was concerned about that. Do you remember what he was running in his live pump, just regular ATF? Thanks
  9. Good morning all. I have a 1951 Farmall M with live hydraulics, pump next to distributor and a 2 way valve on the top of the pump. I have two lines that come off of the two way valve to the rear of the tractor with the original pioneer quick coupler ends on them. About 4 months ago I purchased a 3 point hitch kit from tony's tractors. The hitch installed perfectly and I am very please with the product. The hitch I purchased has two dual acting cylinders on both sides of the lift arms. When I went to the local tractor shop, I had them plumb the new hydraulic lines for the cylinders to connect to the old couplers at the back of the tractor. Both couplers have t fittings on them. One t off of one coupler goes to the top connection of the left cylinder and to the top of the right cylinder. The other t fitting off of the other coupler goes to the bottom connection of the left cylinder and to the bottom of the right cylinder. I filled the system with 6 quarts of new SAE 30 W. When I start the tractor and pull back on the rod with the offset in it connected to the 2 way valve the hitch will raise via the two cylinders. From there I cannot get the hitch to lower. If I swap the t fittings in both couplers I can get the two cylinders to lower the hitch but I cannot get the hitch to raise. I was always under the impression that the tractor had two way hydraulics made possible by the 2 way valve (Christmas tree valve). Is there a certain position that the liftall lever has to be in to make this system work? From what I have read online from either this forum or yesterdays tractors, there has been some discussion that the liftall lever, the long straight lever that connects to the belly connection needs to be pulled back and locked and then from there you use the two way valve rod forward and back to raise and lower the cylinders? I know I might have gotten a little long winded, but this has been driving me crazy for the last past week. Hopefully someone out there has had this experience in the past and can provide some input. I have attached some pictures to help explain my setup and the current situation I am in. Thanks for bearing with me and I appreciate all the help! Thanks, -Mike