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65806 last won the day on November 23

65806 had the most liked content!

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  1. It looks like a 1959 or 1960 B series. I have a ‘59 B120 4x4.
  2. My Caterpillar D2 manual says to drain transmission and final drives, fill with kerosene, drive around for 10 minutes without any load, drain and fill with 90wt.
  3. I’m glad you all like it. worked out well combining a storage room and bar into one. I had those end cap shelves and thought it would be cool to make it look like the old IH parts counter. I came up with an old parts book rack and put my catalogs from Steiner, Brillman etc in it. Also found a couple of the old ashtrays with the rubber tires around it that used to be on everyone’s counter. I don’t smoke I just thought it added to the look.
  4. Thanks for the kind words
  5. I finally got this project done in my basement. The rounded shelf end caps were out of my old IH dealer. I got them for free when they remodeled their store. Pretty happy with how it turned out.
  6. I hate to sell my parts in case I decide to go back to a roosa master. I would guess there were quite a few switched over with those kits and that you can probably find the drive and gear cover plate by calling a few salvage yards.
  7. Here’s a picture of the timing gear cover for roosa. it’s the same cover and thrust bolt in the kit as what’s used in factory roosa equipped engines. I thought it had a spring loaded button but my memory failed me.
  8. I don’t think mine had that spacer plate. I still have it in a box buried under so much stuff it would take a day to dig it out. here is a breakdown of the drive that came in the conversion kit and the drive that came from the factory with the roosa pump. the housings have a different part number for the conversion drive housing and the factory roosa drive housing. The break point was engine serial number 23978 the conversion housing should be 615152C1 the factory roosa drive housing was 613990C1
  9. The pump mount was part of the kit. When they started putting the roosa pumps on at the factory (1966 I think) they started using a different timing gear with a single bolt and no adjustment as the roosa pump housing has slotted holes to adjust timing. the RD pump housing had no adjustment but the timing gear has three bolts with slots to adjust timing. The drive adapter that came in the conversation kit had a shaft with three holes to bolt up to the RD timing gear. So to answer the question all roosa pumps need the drive housing but you need the one with correct shaft to bolt to whichever timing gear is on your engine.
  10. My 806 was RD from the factory and was converted to roosa with the IH kit made for that swap and I ended up going back to the RD. the kit came with the drive adapter to mount that roosa to the RD style timing gear as well as a new timing gear cover with the spring loaded button that pushed on the end of the pump drive shaft. I agree with the other guys about rolling the motor backwards a ways and then in the right direction slowly to get the flywheel on the correct mark and then set your pump to line up marks in pump window. There will always be play going back on the crankshaft. my 2cents
  11. Sorry it took me so long. let me know if you need anything else. good luck.
  12. I will get you some pictures of my service manual tonight when I get back to the house if nobody chimes in sooner.
  13. Years ago we were doing PTO work with our 1066 and it started knocking. It was weird as it would be two small clicks than one louder knock. turns out it broke one tooth off of two of the gears so the two smaller clicks was when the small gear broken tooth hit a good spot on bigger gear but when both broken teeth lined up it would give out the louder knock. if I remember right we pulled the MCV and rolled the motor over by hand and could see the broken gear.
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