65806

I spent many many hours as a kid on a super H with 8’ roller breaking a crust after a hard rain to get the ground loose enough for sugar beets to come up. Hot and noisy but that’s how I learned.

Doesn’t your super M have the squared off rim where the lugs clamp and the hydro has the double bevel rims?

No need to remove the pump or lines only the wheel.

Been a few years since I’ve done one. The original had 4 or 5 different seals, washers and bushing in there. you just take off the steering wheel with a puller. Remove a snap ring and then slide wheel back on. With engine off just turn the steering wheel and it’s builds enough pressure to push all the old parts out. My kit had directions for the order the new stuff went back in. I don’t remember using any of the old parts except maybe the snap ring. You definitely throw away more old parts then what’s in the kit. good luck.

Yes

Lot of money but I have the same tractor and I wouldn’t sell it for that.

I agree. Not a bad tractor but if you can step up to a 706 it’s twice the tractor. Better hitch, better hydraulics, better steering, more gears.

Do not take the six bolt 3x6” plate off. There is a valve under there that controls the three point hitch. The remote linkage you need is above that and directly under the seat. Much easier to access if you pull the 4 seat suspension bolts out and get the seat out of your way if you’re working inside a cab.

Your post is working fine. My 656 is a gear drive so I can’t answer your question but someone will chime in I’m sure.

I’m sure you probably know already. that RD pump has a spring in it that adds fuel for better starting when cold. You have to have the throttle wide open to engage that spring while cranking. This might help it start but you probably have something else going wrong also. this picture is right out of the RD service manual.

That’s cool. I like the red cabs better also. I always have the side windows open.

I took all the hand crank stuff off the front. the gear is a standard size hole. Slides right on the crank. I used a tapered pin that was sized for existing hole in the crankshaft and drilled my gear to accept that pin. I did have to slide my front bolster forward to have enough room to slide the gear on. It all fits but it’s close. It’s just standard 60 chain. 15 tooth on the crankshaft and 40 tooth on the pump I think. the pump I just bought a PTO extension shaft that’s available and turned the big end down to accept an off the shelf tapered gear flange. hard to get my phone in there for a decent picture. I don’t remember cutting the fan shroud but looking at that picture it looks like I may have. Been too long to remember. took a couple days but the live hydraulics are definitely a night and day improvement.

The pipe grill was later. our 1965 has mesh and our 1968 had the pipe grill. Not sure when they changed.

I think they had white border originally but it’s been a long time since they were new.

Bought this 10 a few months ago. Pretty original tractor and it has the decals in the back corners. This is an early white cab with the different inside door handles like the ones on a loadstar truck.