Jump to content

65806

Members
  • Content Count

    836
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

82 Excellent

About 65806

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 65806

    Quick tac duals?

    Next time you are taking them off mark out a notch on the spacer and torch it out so that you can put a crowbar between spacer and inside rim bead area. Then next time you need to remove them you can pry from the inside with a crowbar and they will come right off. Make the notch just deep enough to get the bar in.
  2. We used to set our 1066 front out to 88” to use on beet digger with 22” rows.
  3. The term “armchair comfort seat” is used in this video to describe the pan seat. The armchairs in the 30’s must have really sucked.
  4. not going to work. If you wire it normal for a positive ground it will try to read negative 12 volts. If you wire it like it’s negative ground it will read correct but the housing will short out to wherever you mount it and smoke your wiring. Only way to make it work would be to wire it like normal negative ground and insulate the housing but that’s a bad day waiting to happen. You can use an amp gauge instead. They don’t care about polarity. If it reads backwards just reverse the two wires . Good luck.
  5. 65806

    Battery Covers

    The aftermarket covers are welded at the wrong angle and are junk. I smashed mine with a sledge and threw them away they were so aggravating. I bought a set from CIH. They are welded correct and work good but they should be gold plated for the price they charge. I agree with the other guys, if it’s a working tractor the covers are just in the way. You can grind the spot welds on your covers and remove the angle iron piece and just use it and throw the cover part away. Be a little more secure than a bungee.
  6. Am I the only one to notice that the inside of his tractor is nicer then the outside of mine?
  7. My 2 cents. With both pumps sucking oil through the same tube and filter if you have any significant restrictions in filter or any air sucking past tube oring/filter cover what can happen is the hitch pump will pull all the oil and starve the mcv pump. The faster the rpm the more oil needs to flow through filter and the more the way bigger hitch pump will tend to starve the mcv. I’ve seen a fairly clean filter cause enough restriction that when I pulled the 5/8” plug on mcv to bleed it there was a vacuum at that plug. With the poor condition of oil you drained out I would say you are in for a few filter changes until you get all the junk cleaned out of the system. Good luck.
  8. Should be fine putting 12v to the magnet. You will have some voltage drop with long wires. They need to be adjusted up nice and close. If the brakes have sucked forever is there any chance the brakes were put on the wrong side? Kinda easy to do if they put the axle in backwards when they built it. I’m pretty sure there is a left and right to those but my old a$$ brain ain’t what it used to be. Good luck.
  9. IH came out with the best cure for the 3 speed 15’s. They called it 5488
  10. Exactly and that’s why the three speeds didn’t have a good gear for a lot of jobs. Lots of overlap also. low 3rd and direct was almost exactly the same gear as high 1st TA. I knew a guy that put the larger percentage reduction TA gears from an early 1466 in a 15 and that helped because then it slowed down high 2nd TA enough to do light work.
  11. Been 25 years since I done this so memory could be faulty. I had the speed transmission on our 1466 and 1568 apart at the same time. They looked identical in every way. The 15 had spacers on the shafts were the 14 had the extra gears. Looked to me like you could have just added the extra gears and replaced the shift cam plate and had all four gears. I believe the 15’s eliminated 2nd gear. The 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the 15’s were the same as 1st, 3rd and 4th in the 14’s.
  12. All automotive left and rights are with you standing and looking at it from behind the vehicle
  13. The new kits have all that except the nipples and hose. Saves fifty cents. Lol
  14. I know the Wisconsin historical society has a ton of IH and farmall records that the are digitizing and uploading that you can look through. Kind of hard to find what your looking for but I managed to find the serial numbers and month by month production on my 806 and now I know it was built late June 1965. Good luck
  15. I just changed over my 966 to ISO. The basic kit comes with the guts and o-rings but no drains. The instructions tell you to take a razor knife and cut a small triangle slot out of bottom rubber boot and that lets the excess oil drain out of housing after unhooking hoses. Works fine but does drip down onto the tractor and makes a mess. You could easily drill and tap an 1/8” pipe thread hole and use a Napa pipe to hose nipple and have it look factory and drip to the ground. I recommend taking the coupler housing off the tractor. Two pipes and two bolts then you can clean the years of crud out of the o-ring grooves and get it drilled and tapped on the work bench.
×
×
  • Create New...