Jump to content

Paul 300 U

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Paul 300 U's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)



  1. Thank you. I've learned that there are seal removal tools that might make extraction a bit easier. I've also learned a way to make a small pilot hole in the sheet metal of the seal, insert a #6 screw then gently pry out using the diamond opening on the flat end of a flat pry bar. Combining with your technique should get the job done correctly. If you have any other thoughts please let me know. Thanks!
  2. Hello. Back again with more hydraulic leaks!. Both my 300 and 350 are leaking fairly significantly from the steering arms. Can I replace these seals from the outside? If so any advice on the best technique. I wished I'd noticed when I had my 350 apart as it seems it would have been much easier to drive the seal out from the inside versus the wrestling match I had from trying to remove it from the outside. I did get a new seal in but it appeared there was still some seal bits lodged in the back. It still has a slower leak. Thanks for the help. Paul
  3. Stoney 1918. That did the trick!! Thank you for the help! Paul
  4. So as not cause confusion I'm currently working on the steering for both my 350 u (one way steering) and 300 u (leaking from to of steering column upper cover). I've posted recently on each topic. This question concerns the 350 u. How do I remove the piston from the cylinder in order to replace the oring? I've inserted pictures below and the instructions from the manual. The shaft moves freely in and out of the cylinder and there is certainly suction inside the cylinder as i move the shaft. Please let me know if there are questions out if further information is needed. Thanks as always. Paul
  5. Thank you. Fyi this is where all of my parts and repair info come from. They were a good investment.
  6. Got it. Will remove seal from the top. Dumb question of the day... I originally thought I could use the seals i just bought for the 350. I purchased new ones after my last unsuccessful rebuild of the 350 steering that resulted in leaks. When I look at my parts list and diagram, which seals am I buying for the 300? The foot notes for the seals I need are based on the production order of 350's. I've been buying from foot note C for my 350 since my 350 tractor # is 11473. If I had to guess, I should order from those marked footnote B for my 300 assuming that they used the same parts for the last of the 300 u and into the early 350's. Hate to order, install and reassemble with wrong parts. Thanks.
  7. Thank you Snoshoe. I just purchased some of the orings you mentioned so i can get back to work on the 350. Guess I'll use them for the 300 since it's my "working" tractor. I did purchase a new seal for the top of the column for the 300 to replace what i thought was the problem. Do I still need to replace that? If "yes", that's ok but I'd rather not take apart more than necessary. I'm concerned about driving out that seal and the needle bearing beneath it from the underside. I did that with 350 and it went ok but since that needle bearing is over 115.00 and hard to find i don't want to risk damaging unless it's the right thing to do. I've noticed some additional leaks in the 300 and will discuss them in a separate post. The assistance is much appreciated. Thanks Paul
  8. I was cutting grass with my 300 u when i noticed liquid on the top of my battery. At first i thought it was battery fluid but realized it was hydraulic oil. After awhile i also noticed oil seeping out of the very top of the steering column where the steering wheel attaches. I just replaced that seal in my 350 u so i did the necessary disassembly on my 300 in order to remove the upper cover of the the steering assembly where that seal is located. I hooked the ignition etc backup and ran the tractor and sure enough i could see oil starting to bubble up. (See the circled area on the picture below.) It then occurred to me that maybe that partucular seal might not be the problem but rather some other oring further down the assembly. I'm not certain hydraulic fluid is supposed to be traveling up that high in the assembly. I thought I'd check with you all to see whose had the problem and how it was corrected. Thanks! Paul
  9. Paul 300 U


    My 300U was my first of two tractors. Had it for about 4 years now I use its for cutting grass and snow plowing. It has its share of little leaks that I try to keep up with but it runs great and the 60 year old power steering still works like a charm. My 350u (very similar to the 300) also runs like a top, the power steering on the other hand has been a challenge. The problem there I believe is think is is more a matter of the guy working on it then serious parts damage!! Good luck!
  10. Thanks as always snoshoe. I appreciate the help. I'm concerned that the thrust plates (look like large washers to me) might be a bit rough or the steering shaft isn't quite smooth enough to allow free movement. With your explanation I better understand how the plungers in the valve move up and down to direct the flow of fluid. I will pay more attention when I redo. Also although I have zero experience it seems odd that that the steering won't make 4 complete revolutions. I'm concerned that's a clue to something. Although the pivot pin does seem to travel completely from the top to the bottom of the shaft. I will also need to figure out disassembling the cylinder so I can replace the seal and ring. It might be a little while before I get back to the 350. I got the plow off my 300 to start grass cutting so I'm now dealing with all the fun old issues I planned to catch up on over the winter on that tractor. (Hard to starting when hot, leaky hydraulic pump). I've got a new coil and a pump seal kit I've got to get installed. Thanks again and I'm off course open to any advice. Paul
  11. Sorry for the slow and long reply! One item I didn't redo when rebuilding was the piston orings/ring in the cylinder. I wasn't sure how to get that apart. It is one of several items in the manual where the pics and instruction are a bit different then my tractor. I was originally just looking for broken parts so I decided to let that be. Now that I know it may be part of the problem I will rebuild it if that's the best step. Another reassembly step that was different that concerned me was part #24 Valve Body. Step 17 in manual (pic below) says alignment is very important and that FIVE plunger holes should be "equally distant from the outer edge of the thrust plate". My unit only has 3 active plungers (see pic please)and I'm not certain what the "thrust plate" is. That is affixed with bolts so I don't understand how adjustment is even possible. Adding to my confusion, when reassembling, the Service Manual directs me out of the Power Steering section to the Manual Steering section for making adjustments to the Cross Shaft Gear backlash and Stud in Cam backlash. (I do understand that the Manual and PS steering are similar for these particular adjustments but the pics and location of the Adjusting Screws are different on my unit than the pics in the manual.) I also don't totally understand what they mean. The Instructions say. "... 2 locking dowels...prevent movement of trunion cover.... the one towards the rear of the tractor enters a blind hole and the bushing may be omitted after field adjustment." What does that mean? It also says the FRONT DOWEL may need burnishing if a replacement was purchased. I didn't do either of these. Instead, I adjusted without omitting the bushing in the rear dowel or burnishing a new front dowel. Would this prevent proper operation? Finally since you mentioned it, I also included what the Manual says regarding up and down movement of the steering wheel hub using a dial gauge. (I don't have this gauge). "Max movement from one extreme to the other should be .1 to .110 inches". If not it says to check "lever shaft" and thrust adjusting nut." Any advice on how to measure and how to adjust is appreciated. Sorry for the info dump! My goal was to learn whether I need to completely remove and disassemble? Am I saving any gaskets and orings? What's the story with the correct # of plunger holes? And how to measure the position of the Valve Body relative to Thrust Plate"? Finally, what to do with 2 dowels and whats the best advice to get the 2 adjusting screws properly adjusted. Any and all help is appreciated! Thanks! Paul
  12. Thanks for the reply as always. MMI mentioned the orings as well. I did replace them and had a bit of a problem with #12 since it was on ther underside of the upper cover. That said, it seemed to go in place ok. Rookie question of the day. I used what I thought would be the correct torque specs based on the manual, 35 to 40 lbs. There weren't actual specs so I used the spec for the trunion cover bolts. I tend to overtighten so I was prob closer to 38. Is that too low?? 2nd question. I'm not sure what you mean by "end play" in the worm gear. I have a general idea what that really is and how i would go about testing and correcting. Thanks MMI. Much appreciated. Please see above regarding orings and that is a great idea once i get it back together.
  13. I bought this tractor about 6 months ago primarily for the loader but decided to try and save it. If I had to guess I'd say the first couple of owners maintained it well the last couple, not so much. The make or break repair is the power steering. It originally only worked turning right. I tore down the steering unit and replaced several worn bearings, pivot pin, seals etc. I finally got it back together and tried it today. The tractor started right up and the steering turned ok right but was still difficult turning left, better then I recalled, but difficult. After several revolutions to bleed air out as recommended by the manual, I decided to quickly try the loader it also needed 2 hoses and a ram repacked. Fortunately the loader functioned perfectly. I went back to try the steering again and it was very difficult to turn in either direction. It was then I noticed serious leaking from the steering tube above and below the valve. I obviously have 2 problems that I'd appreciate help with. 1. Why is this leaking, it didn't originally, what did I not do correctly? 2. Now that we know there is no catastrophic part failure since I rebuilt the unit, why does the steering still only want to turn right? Hopefully you experienced folks can help! Thanks Paul
  14. Thanks Snoshoe. After a bit of wrestling, I was able to free them up and get the steering straight. Much appreciated!
  15. Hi Plugging away on the 350 steering when I can get the time. I am doing the reassembly and setting the front wheels straight using the technique in the manual. Per the manual I need to turn the center tube. I need advice on how to go about this. Do I somehow loosen the end nuts first? Neither the tubes nor the nuts want to turn and before I start really putting stress on these I'd check here first. Also as you can see these center tubes appear different from each other. First 2 pics are left. 2nd 2 addre right side if that makes a difference. Do they look correct? Thanks! Paul
  • Create New...