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Paul 300 U

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About Paul 300 U

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  1. Dennis, it's positive ground. Unfortunately i was called into work and haven't had the chance to follow up on the tests suggested. I did charge the battery and all i get now is a "click". Like everyone else having the time to spend doing the job correctly can be a challenge. Hopefully I have spend a few hours over the next few days. Thanks for feedback!. Paul
  2. J-mech. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the link and understand now that this could be a a simple problem. I "don't know what I don't know" but at least now I have better information. Snowshoe. Thanks for clarifying my original question. It seems as though the parts I have are correct, it's a matter of determining whether the generator is bad by following the correct test process. Mmii thanks for the feedback on what and how to test and understanding the situation on getting the repairs made and the quality of new parts that are available. Matt, I came across the John T process in another forum. Thanks for verifying it is a good process and for the advice. I was actually using a video from the Rachel Giggell?? (Steiner videos) It was 4 simple steps for farmall electrical problems. It seemed pretty straight forward. That where the "3 brush doesn't work correctly with a 2 coil voltage regulator" information came from. I'm not saying her information was wrong, she wasn't working on my model tractor. I made the leap that the info would apply to most old 6 volt tractors. I also need to invest in a simple electrical testing gauge of some sort. Paul
  3. Hi. Thanks for the feedback! Your solution would take all the fun out trying to fix it myself now wouldn't it??? Very true, I'm no mechanic, furthest thing from actually. 2 years ago I bought a tractor that wouldn't start consistently would barely stop at all, sputtered and stalled when it did run, and had barely functioning hydraulics just to name the highlights. With the help of good folks here I re did breaks, rebulilt carb, corrected several plumbing issues with hydraulics, normal tune up and on and on. Now I've got a great little, old tractor that cuts grass, plows snow, pulls logs etc. It just has a handful of remaining issues (leaks, lights, charging) that I'd like to correct. I do read many topics here and am clearly aware that my tractor is a tinker toy next to the serious tractors and projects I see here. I'm simply trying to make an old, red tractor functional. Finally, I live in a town with a great guy for a local mechanic. He's probably the only one within 40 miles, my tractor would be pretty low on his priority list. That's the story. Bottom line, do you know whether my 3 brush generator is appropriate with the 2 brush voltage regulator??? I got to get this figured out 😀. Thanks. Paul
  4. Hello. Had trouble with the battery staying charged for over a year. Battery was about 4 years old so I replaced that. Still dying occasionally so I thought maybe battery terminals so I cleaned, tightened etc. Every time when it dies I put the charger on it and it is good to go for the next 4 or 5 starts. Amp guage is always at 0 (center) before i start. As soon as I start it goes left towards D., never goes to C. Thinking problem may be beyond battery so i did some reading and a few simple tests. 1. Ran cable from generator Amarture to battery and generator Field to ground. When I detach the negative cable from the battery, the tractor dies. 2. Removed inspection cover from generator and it looks like my generator has 3 brushes but my voltage regulator has 2 coils. I read/ watched that with 3 brush generator I should have a "cut off" with one coil versus a voltage regulator with two. I don't know if this goes for all old 6 volt tractors. I am willing to replace either a voltage regulator or the cut off as required but i don't know which I actually need. 3. I also connected my battery directly to the generator and it does not spin. I do not know if that means the generator is definitely the problem or the voltage regulator could affect that test. I also am considering tuning up my generator (last picture below is screenshot of kit) with new brushes and bearings. The parts are inexpensive but it looks a bit time consuming and I don't have all the tools I've seen in the videos. (Wrenching with Rachel video for Steiner uses a lathe to clean and smooth the armature shaft for example). I'm not anti 12 volt conversion but I am trying to avoid unnecessary work and expense. Fortunately, at least for now, when my tractor cranks a few revolutions it starts. To date, with the help here, I've had good luck fixing issues. Let me know if more pics are needed. Sorry for the long post. I appreciate all thoughts and suggestions. Paul
  5. Prayer is always positive and helpful including those who might might not ordinarily cross our minds. Thanks Paul
  6. Jmech. I'd say about 50 hours with a mower and about 100 hours or so with a snow plow. RBoots. Sounds good. What's the challenge in getting it off? Does it require something like a gear puller? Thanks. Paul
  7. R190, thank you for your reply. Are the shaft bushings and worn out seals items major repairs in terms of parts availability, difficulty level and cost? I know these items depend on skill level etc. but I'm just asking in general. Thanks! Paul
  8. OK, so feedback is a bit light on this topic. Might be helpful if illustrate what's worrying me with pictures. My primary concern with fluid needs for my power steering begins with this shaft that comes out of the power steering pump. It appears to be leaking. 1st pic is an overview of the area. 2nd pic is the path the leaking fluid is following. It appears to be leaking from the joint then running backwards along the shaft then dripping into the starter. 3rd pic is close up of the shaft including what appears to be splines of some sort. Perhaps an indicator that there is some loosening somewhere. 4th pic is the some leakage at the bottom of what i assume is the steering pump on the other side of the tractor. 5 th pic is of a small flip top on the starter where i believe i am to be inserting some light oil occasionally but wasn't sure. Hope this helps better understand, my questions in my original post. Thanks Paul
  9. Hello, I'm back again, Trying to be proactive and avoid what I read is the biggest problem with this model of tractor, power steering. Sounds like broken power steering is virtually unfixable with virtually no available parts, used or new. How is this system lubricated? I see some old threads that talk about dry gearboxes and loose mounting bolts. 1. How and where do I lube the power steering? 2. What grease or oil is required? 3. What if anything else needs to be tightened down or requires maintenance? It sounds as though lack of maintenance is as big a culprit as wear. All help, tips. thoughts and suggestions are appreciated. If pics are needed tell me what to photograph and I will do my best. Thank you, Paul
  10. Yes, i liked the Torch blades. I had one standard (cheap) metal cutting blade left and it snapped in under 30 seconds. It was a bit frustrating since i was only using the top 1.5 inches or so of expensive torch blades lade until i figured out that i could cut the top of the blade of get one more use out of it. Can't imagine how long this would have taken with standard blade or worse yet a hand hacksaw! Now that i re read replies, I see what was meant by "splitting bolt with grinder" and snapping off bolts especially if i had a 3/4 drive. I did manage to snap off one of my wheel weight bolts as i tightening them all down. I have a tendency to overtighten and hate when i do that. Thanks ! Paul
  11. Got to admit it's almost embarrassing celebrating the replacement of a few rusted bolts, especially when i read all the rebuilds serious mechanical work that goes on. Bottom line however is that after many hours of sawzall cutting, grinder wheel, hand chisel and pretty much anything else i could get my hands on, I got my new bolts in place. Best of all it appears to be the cause of the clucking and grinding which is a big relief. I'd rather do hard labor then be stuck with an expensive mechanical problem I might not be able to fix. Thanks everybody for all the suggestions, especially using Torch blades and grinder. It would have been much easier if i had better clearance to get to what needed cutting! (I guess i'd better learn how to use heat!) Some pics of the mess and finished product since everyone loves pictures. Paul
  12. After many rounds of pb blaster and some pretty aggressive loosening tactics with pipewrench, cheater bar, removing wheel weights for better access etc., I'm going to try and and cut these bolts with a reciprocating saw. It's gonna be a tight squeeze getting the saw blade in behind the each nut but other than heat i'm out of options. Feel free to offer up any ideas. Thanks Paul
  13. Well, I might have gotten lucky but not ready celebrate yet. Started trying to tighten the lugs today and they all felt tight. Started rocking the tractor to see if it made any difference. I was really surprised at how much I could actually feel the noise in my hands. Kept rolling the tractor back and forth (on concrete with mower detached so a little easier now) and it really sounded like the clicking was coming from the tire area not the axle area. Started looking closer and while the hub was tight to the axle, 3 of the bolts that hold the actual rim to the spokes (sorry, don't know proper name.) were loose. The pic attached shows just how loose. I was actually able to jam a quarter in the gap. The bolts are very rusted so i pb blasted and will try and tighten tomorrow to see if that corrects problem. The right wheel bolts aren't loose or making noise so i'm going to take that as a sign that the noise comes from loose bolts🤞. I also took a 2nd pic of the right side since this same part is configured differently on this side but i don't know why. (Hard to see in pic) I will post the results as soon as i get it tightened up. Btw, if there's another problem I'm missing, please let me know. Thanks. Paul
  14. Thank you for the advice so far. I'm going to tighten lugs tomorrow. I will be thrilled if the fix is that simple. A couple of questions. 1. If tightening lugs does not correct how do I "Check that the hub is tight on the axle splines?" I'm looking at my manual now but don't know enough of what i'm looking at to know what i'm is i'm supposed do. 2. If it is a failed axle bearing can still use the tractor for a limited amount of time? I certainly don't want to do further damage but maybe this is one of those "really can't make it worse" situations. I have an elderly neighbor and i was hoping to get her grades cut before she has family up. Probably about and hours worth of work. 3. If it is a failed axle bearing is this a job that i can attempt? I don't mind trying (I'd actually enjoy digging in) but if this is a job for a skilled professional I'd like to know that. Thanks as always for this and any additional thoughts. The more viewpoints i have the better. Paul
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