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Paul 300 U

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About Paul 300 U

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  1. I was in a similar position looking for a loader for my 300 U. After over a year of looking and hoping that the loader i was looking at would fit while not paying an outrageous price. Following the above advice, I bit the bullet and bought a pretty rough 350 U with a nice IH loader. I figured I'd remove the loader and just get rid of the 350. Of course now I can't part with the 350 especially since I'm concerned I'll damage the power steering on my 300. Now it's time to find the parts I need to fix the 350 while building my argument that i need to buy a 3rd tractor to fix the 350!
  2. Thank you. I've got to still pull apart the cylinder valve to remove the destroyed bearing. I will also have a better idea of what else I need. Here's a pic of what i can see. I don't own the tool to install and remove race but it seems like a good purchase. Thanks for the reply Moodnacreek. I'm not experienced here but was curious about the valves early on and they might still be a problem. I don't know how to determine???Finding the metal bits and damaged bearings gives me a concrete 1st step. Stay tuned and thanks. That's pretty cool Saj1000. My knowledge ba
  3. I have a 300 utility with 2 remotes. The hydraulic fluid port is under the seat behind the gear shifter. It looks like a pipe plug. There should be a dip stick with level indicator marks. This is also the reservoir that holds the transmission fluid. I also have a 350 utility (very similar to the 300) with a loader and a 3rd remote, the hydraulic reservoir is in the same place. It does not have a separate reservoir for the loader athough some loaders do. !At the advice of this group I use the IH brand Hytran transmission and hydraulic fluid. I've gotten a lot of great advice f
  4. Thanks again snoshoe. Can you please assist in identifying the bearings and race I need to find? I've never seen them intact so it makes it more difficult to understand the exploded parts view. (See pics attached) I'm assuming you mean 2 each of part #'s 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19? I'd hate to spend hours trying to find the wrong part! Additionally. Where is the bearing believe is still intact? And... yes anyone who can supply these parts or add insight please chime in. I'd like to keep this tractor in one piece of feasible. please let me know. Sorry, one more thing. I was able to
  5. Thanks for the reply snoshoe. World that explain why it would turn in only one direction? Can that bearing be replaced? If so Is there an aftermarket source for the part? Paul
  6. My 350 U power steering only turned right not left. Got lots of good advice on my previous post but bottom line was I needed to remove and disassemble the steering assembly to find the real problem. I took that advice and tore it down. I'm not sure what I'm looking at but I do have parts and service manuals. I've also searched this site and others and have learned certain (power)steering parts for these tractors are almost impossible to locate. The worst as I understand is a shaft that is built with the bearings already in place. I'm sure I'm not explaining that correctly but some here m
  7. Thank you all. Sounds like I'll be ok in the short run by draining a few quarts then adding new 30 wt. The tractor is in a very small unheated barn. I'm barely able to squeeze it in with plow on but i can get under it. The 350 is in the semi heared garage. The plan was to fix the 350 loader ram and steering and use that for snow this winter. Looks now I'll be removing entire power steering in the 350 to figure out problem and i need room in garage. I'll be posting more on that soon. Appreciate the help! Paul
  8. I've not had the time to install the hydraulic pump seal kit I purchased almost a year ago for my 300 utility. The kit was purchased because it appears that my hydraulic fluid is making its way into the engine oil via the hydraulic pump. I suspect this because my engine is "making oil". I've put in in a gallon of hytran (it leaks as well) since I last changed oil in the tractor. The oil keeps rising on the dip stick. The tractor runs 50 or so hours a year. Otherwise the pump works great and oil pressure is seems ok. I've been putting my spare time in getting my 350 fixed and out of my g
  9. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
  10. Quick question. I'm tearing down the power steering system in my 350 u. Eventually i will need to reassemble. I see that there are ring and seal kits available for some models of old tractors but i can't seem to locate a kit or individual gaskets etc. for an International 350 utility with power steering. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  11. Nate and Ray 54 I'm going to jack it back up and steer the wheels by hand before I finish removing the steering mechanism. Right now I've only been able to remove one steering gear arm. I broke the puller on the left side but i can disconnect the tie rod on that side and test it out as you suggest. I appreciate the suggestions.
  12. NomoreJD that's what i was thinking but then what 12 guy says occurred to me. Maybe when their is weight on the axle it makes so it somehow gets binds when you try and turn. The manual is very precise when it comes to assembling the steering mechanism, adjusting camber etc it makes me think that the bent arm could be the problem.
  13. I recently posted that the power steering on my "new" 350 U only works one way. Thanks to help here here I'm narrowing down issues in the steering assembly. (So far, looks like the rack is in tact). I was in process of removing the entire steering mechanism using the procedure in the manual (currently trying to remove a very stuck steering gear arm coming off the steering wheel assembly.)when I noticed this possible problem. Looking up from the back of the tractor towards the front wheels I noticed how bent down the left front steering knuckle arm is. Measuring up from the axle ther
  14. Yes. I used puller and it wasn't too bad but the guy i bought tractor from said he tried everything to remove the steering wheel including heat and hammer so i guess I'll find out. I'm looking at my manual now and it appears to access the control valve i need to remove the "upper cover" bolts. ( i attached pics of most of the illustrations for steering) I assume that im looking for broken pieces. Is there anything else i should look for or remove. Not surprising, the more parts i remove the more the illustrations make sense. Still a long way to go, it's a good thing i take lots o
  15. I was thinking about the control valve. I think i understand why you are moving away from that idea but I had an additional thought that might be relevant. When struggling to turn the steering wheel left to inspect the rack, i was kicking the outer edge of tires to assist my efforts and avoid overdoing it pulling on the steering wheel. When i kicked, fluid was literally shooting 5 feet high from where I removed the hydraulic lines. It made me think about the leak out of the top plug that began after pressure built as i used the the steering when the tractor was running. I have no way of
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