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About Crashcup

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    Advanced Member

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    Monticello MN
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    Trying to keep an old IH 444 running for work around our yard. The bright side is that it's easy to learn when you know so little....
    444 with 2050 loader; added a box blade and winch.

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  1. Yeah, that sounds like it would be the one, I need to pick one up. I'd like to be able to identify the fitting size - by wrench size, or something else - before taking the fittings apart, so I can plug and cap the ends to keep the fluid in. I can't see the threads to measure them without taking it apart first.
  2. Hello, I need to replace the pressure side hose from the loader pump on my 444 (2050 loader), and I was surprised that none of the wrenches I have around fit for the hose end fittings. 1 1/4" too big, 1 1/16" too small. I'm not real familiar with tractor hydraulics. Can I expect that all the fittings on this model will be JIC 37 deg flare? Anyone know of a reference to wrench sizes that fit? I can use a crescent wrench if they're not too tight, but, I'd also like to pick up some plugs and caps to quick throw on there to minimize hyd fluid loss. If I could figure out the dash - number size based on the wrench flats, that would help me get the right size plugs/caps. Thanks in advance... Keith
  3. Well, I'm not going to worry about the needle sticking a bit, as Iowa suggested. And now with a fuel pump it probably can't stick closed with pressure. It has worked out - I removed the screen on the elbow, and I got it running again. Was just curious how that screen can look okay but still seemed to be restricting the fuel flow. Once I got it running, I took it down the driveway and back, and noticed - with no hood panel on - a bubble on the upper radiator hose. The hose is painted red... so possibly the original??? From 1971. Looked like a leak about to happen, so now waiting on a hose from Steiner. Then I'll be able to get the sheet metal back on and finally get it back into service! I've got dirt to move.
  4. Thanks for the reply Iowa. Yeah, two different problems. In my futile attempt to keep the post short, I didn't go into all the details. The original problem was flooding; that's what prompted me to take the gas tank off and clean it out, replace fuel line and sediment bowl screen, add a filter and electric fuel pump. Clean everything out, and add a finer filter that can catch finer particles then the sediment bowl or carb elbow screen. The pump wasn't to address the flooding of course, but to make sure I'd have enough flow through the tighter filter. The 444 originally had an electric fuel pump, but mine was missing when I bought it. Removing the elbow screen is no issue, I'm assuming, since I have the better filter ahead of the carb. (sediment bowl before pump, then filter between pump and carb). Then after all the new fuel system parts, and fixing an ignition problem, I found no fuel in the float bowl - different problem. This seems to have been caused by the elbow screen. I was surprised by this because it didn't look plugged up.
  5. This probably applies generally to carburetors, although in my case it is a Marvel Schebler TSX 896 on a 444 utility. First, sticking float valve needle. I've had the carb off way too many times in the last couple of years. Have had an ongoing problem with flooding, which I attributed to crap holding the float valve open, because if I hopped off the tractor fast enough and rapped on the float bowl with something it would usually clear up. Anyway, when I've had the carb apart I've noticed that the needle wants to stick to the seat slightly. For example, turning it over to check the float height, then turn it back right side up, and the float drops down, but the needle stays up in the seat. If I would just tap the body of the carb lightly the needle would drop. So this summer I decided to bite the bullet and clean up the gas tank and the whole fuel system. Also replaced the needle and seat again, and this time polished the seat with a q-tip in a drill and polishing compound. Also polished the side corners of the needle (not the point) to make sure there were no sharp edges. Guess what? It would still stick lightly when pushed up. Anyone know what's up with that? Is that because of the viton tip on the needle? It's just weird that I can't get it to where it will always drop down when force from the floats is released. Is there any real problem with this? Especially now, I've added an electric fuel pump (444 originally had one, but mine had no pump when I bought it), it seems like that little bit of sticking would not hold the needle up against fuel pump pressure. Even if it's fine in practice, for some reason it bugs me that it sticks a little! Second question: Is it very common to have problems with restrictions in the screen attached to the fuel inlet elbow? I had just fixed a problem with the ignition - now have nice fat spark at each spark plug - but then the engine wouldn't fire up, and I found the when I opened the float bowl drain nothing came out! Having just installed a fuel pump and automotive type filter, I suspected some problem there, but checked fuel flow from point to point, and it was good all the way to the line that goes in to the carb elbow (meaning that disconnecting the fuel line just before the carb elbow, and turning the fuel pump on, I got a healthy squirt of gas out of the line. I took the carb off, took the float bowl off, and tried blowing compressed air into the elbow. All the air seemed to come back out of the elbow - couldn't feel any coming out the bottom of the carb body... even with the float valve visibly open. Took the elbow out and blew into that directly... it SEEMED like some air was getting through. But the only thing I could think of was the screen restricting the flow, so I tore off the screen. Re-assembled the carb, got it back on, and now had fuel filling the float bowl, AND, the tractor started up. So I'm curious, can that screen restrict the fuel flow even if it doesn't LOOK like it's plugged up? Is it common for those to cause problems? Thanks, Keith
  6. Well, I ended up basically trusting the wiring diagram. That shows there is only one terminal on the connector that has two wires going to it. One going to the voltage regulator, and one going to the solenoid. And on my tractor there is just the one terminal with two wires, and one of those is running to the right-side solenoid terminal. So it sounds like that must be it. The resistance on that wire is about 1.5 ohm, which is probably about right. (33 ohm not a likely value for a ballast resistor).
  7. Hey Owen, not sure what the chances are that you'll see this on a Sunday, but.... I'm back to the 444 today, and I disconnected this wire at the solenoid, and am probing the wires back at the connector to verify which one is the resistance wire. I didn't expect so many to show continuity, but maybe some of these are connected either at the solenoid or the alternator? Does 33 ohms sound like what you'd expect for the resistance wire? If that 33 ohms is the resistance wire, that would be good to know. Otherwise I may need to disconnect a bunch of wires to absolute verify which one is it. Thanks, Keith
  8. Sorry, no answer for you, but I'd like to know as well. It should apply to my 444 as well, I think. The parts catalog lists 389397 R92 for the steering hand pump on the 444. And 389397 R91 for the 424. I'm guessing the 'R number' is a revision?
  9. Do most shops only provide parts out of their stock if they do the work? Or would they sell you the seals?
  10. Withdraw my question... found this in another thread: http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=International Harvester
  11. There's more than one white color for these tractors? What about the IH red? Is there a website or some other reference where you can look it up by year and model? I took the gas tank off my 444 to clean it out, and I'm really tempted to paint it. That could be a very slippery slope, though.
  12. Thank you Owen. I think I saw your name on some other forum posts I was reading, but I believe there were conflicting answers. This puts it to rest for me. A couple of years ago when I was trying to diagnose a no-spark condition, I was wary of the condition of the wire from the solenoid terminal to the coil + terminal, so I ran another wire in parallel with that to make sure I was getting full voltage to the coil. Now, based on what you're saying, that new wire did NOT bypass the resistance wire. So I still have that in the circuit. Last year I put in the Pertronix Ignitor I, and also their flamethrower coil. That coil is 3.0 ohms on the primary, so I don't think the ballast resistor/wire is needed. Guess now I need to decide whether I should bypass that wire to remove the resistance. BTW, Zumbrota is one of the nicer areas in Minnesota. We've done several group motorcycle rides down in that area (as well as Western WI); it's great for riding. Keith
  13. I've searched and read about this, but still unsure where the ballast resistor is on this tractor. I've seen it said that it's actually resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil. Is it not this resistor near the regulator (pic attached)??? And if it is resistance wire, is it before the solenoid terminals, or between the sol terminal and the coil? Thanks, Keith
  14. Any recollection of how much the machine shop charged for making a new spool?
  15. This has been a really helpful forum... I appreciate all the replies I've gotten to my mostly beginner questions! And another basic question. My 444 has a 2050 loader, and after I've been working it long enough for things to get good and hot, the valve(s) start dripping oil... which happens to drip right on to my foot. Still works the same, it's just an annoyance. Now that I've started spending some time working on the tractor, I thought I might try to do something about that leak. I do have a parts manual for it, and it looks like there are about a dozen o-rings that seal "externally" on the cartridges and some in between the 3 valve bodies. There are more that sit on the spools, but I don't think those would leak to the outside. I haven't been able to find anything like a rebuild kit that includes everything. But, it does look like it's only simple o-rings, no gaskets or anything. Would there be any problem just buying the o-rings anywhere? Tractor Supply, NAPA, McMaster-Carr or wherever they have o-rings by size? The first one I looked up on the Case-IH online parts fiche is priced at $2.35... gotta be able to get them cheaper than that. The parts manual has the dimensions. The online parts fiche has the dash number and the hardness. Are these going to be just a buna-N material, nothing exotic? Also, is there anything special to know about taking the valve bodies apart, aside from keeping everything clean and in order? Just don't want to do anything that would make the spools bind. Thanks, Keith
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