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Crashcup

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About Crashcup

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    Male
  • Location
    Monticello MN
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    Trying to keep an old IH 444 running for work around our yard. The bright side is that it's easy to learn when you know so little....
    444 with 2050 loader; added a box blade and winch.

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  1. Yeah, that sounds like it would be the one, I need to pick one up. I'd like to be able to identify the fitting size - by wrench size, or something else - before taking the fittings apart, so I can plug and cap the ends to keep the fluid in. I can't see the threads to measure them without taking it apart first.
  2. Hello, I need to replace the pressure side hose from the loader pump on my 444 (2050 loader), and I was surprised that none of the wrenches I have around fit for the hose end fittings. 1 1/4" too big, 1 1/16" too small. I'm not real familiar with tractor hydraulics. Can I expect that all the fittings on this model will be JIC 37 deg flare? Anyone know of a reference to wrench sizes that fit? I can use a crescent wrench if they're not too tight, but, I'd also like to pick up some plugs and caps to quick throw on there to minimize hyd fluid loss. If I could figure out the dash - number size based on the wrench flats, that would help me get the right size plugs/caps. Thanks in advance... Keith
  3. Well, I ended up basically trusting the wiring diagram. That shows there is only one terminal on the connector that has two wires going to it. One going to the voltage regulator, and one going to the solenoid. And on my tractor there is just the one terminal with two wires, and one of those is running to the right-side solenoid terminal. So it sounds like that must be it. The resistance on that wire is about 1.5 ohm, which is probably about right. (33 ohm not a likely value for a ballast resistor).
  4. Hey Owen, not sure what the chances are that you'll see this on a Sunday, but.... I'm back to the 444 today, and I disconnected this wire at the solenoid, and am probing the wires back at the connector to verify which one is the resistance wire. I didn't expect so many to show continuity, but maybe some of these are connected either at the solenoid or the alternator? Does 33 ohms sound like what you'd expect for the resistance wire? If that 33 ohms is the resistance wire, that would be good to know. Otherwise I may need to disconnect a bunch of wires to absolute verify which one is it. Thanks, Keith
  5. Withdraw my question... found this in another thread: http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=International Harvester
  6. There's more than one white color for these tractors? What about the IH red? Is there a website or some other reference where you can look it up by year and model? I took the gas tank off my 444 to clean it out, and I'm really tempted to paint it. That could be a very slippery slope, though.
  7. Thank you Owen. I think I saw your name on some other forum posts I was reading, but I believe there were conflicting answers. This puts it to rest for me. A couple of years ago when I was trying to diagnose a no-spark condition, I was wary of the condition of the wire from the solenoid terminal to the coil + terminal, so I ran another wire in parallel with that to make sure I was getting full voltage to the coil. Now, based on what you're saying, that new wire did NOT bypass the resistance wire. So I still have that in the circuit. Last year I put in the Pertronix Ignitor I, and also their flamethrower coil. That coil is 3.0 ohms on the primary, so I don't think the ballast resistor/wire is needed. Guess now I need to decide whether I should bypass that wire to remove the resistance. BTW, Zumbrota is one of the nicer areas in Minnesota. We've done several group motorcycle rides down in that area (as well as Western WI); it's great for riding. Keith
  8. I've searched and read about this, but still unsure where the ballast resistor is on this tractor. I've seen it said that it's actually resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil. Is it not this resistor near the regulator (pic attached)??? And if it is resistance wire, is it before the solenoid terminals, or between the sol terminal and the coil? Thanks, Keith
  9. Hey Adam, do you happen to have any pics of the gas tank mounting? Can't say for sure, but it looks similar to my 444. I need to get that tank off, and I'm not quite sure what I'm in for.
  10. Hey Bob, thanks. Good to see that it works out for another 444. Do you run the filter before or after the fuel pump?
  11. Hi All, hopefully this post is in the right forum - engines or general IH tech? I have a '71 444 tractor, and have been having a heck of a time with the float needle sticking and flooding. If I can get to it in time when it starts to sputter, I can rap on the float bowl with a wrench and it will sort itself out. But too often, it will die before I can do that and then it's a bear to get started again. I have installed an electronic ignition to replace the points since they seemed to get burned easily when trying to start it when it's flooded. Two years ago I rebuilt the carb, and it worked great for a few months after that. All I can think of is that some kind of grit is getting into the carb and causing the needle valve to stick open. For its age, it wouldn't be surprising if the tank has some rust. Haven't really been able to tell very well by looking inside, I probably need to drain it to get a better look. Anyway, I don't know how effective the sediment bowl is. I've thought about adding an automotive type fuel filter, but was advised that this might lead to other problems because the filter is too restrictive. However, I noticed that my shop manual shows a fuel pump on this tractor. Mine doesn't have one. When or where it would have been removed I have no idea. If I replaced the pump, would I be able to put a better filter on - downstream of the pump - without worrying about fuel starvation? Does it sound like that would help the situation? Or is the only remedy cleaning out the fuel tank and the whole fuel system to make sure there's no dirt or rust? And if a pump is worth trying, would I be okay just getting an aftermarket electric fuel pump that's rated for the right pressure output? And what is that? I guess I'd never thought about it back when I had cars with carburetors, but what keeps the fuel pump from overwhelming the float valve and just pushing fuel in and flooding it? (Motorcycles are easier - gravity-fed and no pump). Is it just matching the right pump pressure to the carb/float valve? Thanks for any help. It's warming up here in Minnesota, and it'll soon be time to that that tractor working again!
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