seant

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About seant

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  1. Sleeve and block damage

    Hey all got my new sleeves and pistons and have some questions for you. I believe my sleeves are a bit to loose in the block. I know a lot of the gas starts had pretty loose sleeves but I think mine are a bit to much. My old sleeves had a lot of carbon and oil build up on the outside which make sense to me now. With them cleaned up they also slide in pretty easy, but they are all damaged as well so hard to say their original fit. Any thoughts on how loose you guys have seen these? Also any experience with sleeve retainer or iodine? I would like to be able to pull them if i have to in the future so retainer and iodine makes me nervouse. It's a hay tractor mostly so not heavy heavy work and idon't have another 1k to put into custom sleeves.
  2. Sleeve and block damage

    Well brief update, did the antifreeze trick and no leaks so im pretty sure its just wear from the sleeve vibrating with a crack in it.. still wondering if i should sand it out, put in some backer product or leave alone. Thanks guys for the help
  3. Sleeve and block damage

    All good suggestions thank you, the head is off and sleeves out of course so ill give the antifreeze trick a shot...makes sense Duh.. should have thought of that. I will let you all know. On a side note i think i located some 4.125 sleeve piston kits for around 1675 shipped and insured if anyone's looking( 4.25 parent bore). I have been pricing (and still am in the process) my own kits to see what i could scrounge together for guys probably in the hundreds of hours hunting parts thus far. Thanks again all!
  4. Sleeve and block damage

    460, Can they check the depth (if its in the water jacket) or just how far around the hole it goes? Thanks!
  5. Sleeve and block damage

    Very true danny, I guess worst like you said you'd be out another sleeve. Makes me really wonder how many rigs out there are running with cracked sleeves... for a while
  6. Sleeve and block damage

    Hey guys some questions for those of you who may have seen or run into this. I had all cracked sleeves on my 450D (i assume starting fluid use as the culprit) so i pulled them all and as i expected there was a mark on the block everywhere the sleeves were cracked, most are so minor you cant even catch with a finger nail and appear to be more discoloration then an actual mark. Those actually appeared to come out with some light scotch bright and oil. There is one however that you can just barely catch with your finger nail, and 1 that is even more significant. The worst one was where the sleeve cracked in a U and created a "tongue" so to speak that was relatively free to travel in and out horizontally with pressure change in the bore. The ridge left is roughly .002-.003 (Ill get a hold of a dial bore gauge and check for sure). I know the "right way" is the hard way and requires pulling the motor and having it bored and use a custom sleeve replacement or a repair sleeve and a stock sleeve. But for those of you that have seen this can you scotch bright/emery the ridge out and get away with putting in new sleeves? I would assume if you just left it as it is, it would really mess with the heat transfer as well as create a pressure ridge along the sleeve leading to cracking again, so i figured if you at least smoothed it out it would probably hold. I think the motor was ran with cracked sleeves for quite a while considering the blow by the previous owner described and with what i witnessed before tearing into it. Its not a high HP motor nor is it throwing on a 4 or 5 bottom plow going all day, but it does do a fair bit of cutting, raking and once in a while baling. I also have thought of a cracked block, i have talked to a few other gas start engine owners and they have run into the same problem and when looked at by a machinist it was not cracked. I never had any oil water mixing either so i think (hoping) i'm safe. Thanks in advance.
  7. Sleeve and block damage

    Hey guys some questions for those of you who may have seen or run into this. I had all cracked sleeves on my 450D (i assume starting fluid use as the culprit) so i pulled them all and as i expected there was a mark on the block everywhere the sleeves were cracked, most are so minor you cant even catch with a finger nail and appear to be more discoloration then an actual mark. Those actually appeared to come out with some light scotch bright and oil. There is one however that you can just barely catch with your finger nail, and 1 that is even more significant. The worst one was where the sleeve cracked in a U and created a "tongue" so to speak that was relatively free to travel in and out horizontally with pressure change in the bore. The ridge left is roughly .002-.003 (Ill get a hold of a dial bore gauge and check for sure). I know the "right way" is the hard way and requires pulling the motor and having it bored and use a custom sleeve replacement or a repair sleeve and a stock sleeve. But for those of you that have seen this can you scotch bright/emery the ridge out and get away with putting in new sleeves? I would assume if you just left it as it is, it would really mess with the heat transfer as well as create a pressure ridge along the sleeve leading to cracking again, so i figured if you at least smoothed it out it would probably hold. I think the motor was ran with cracked sleeves for quite a while considering the blow by the previous owner described and with what i witnessed before tearing into it. Its not a high HP motor nor is it throwing on a 4 or 5 bottom plow going all day, but it does do a fair bit of cutting, raking and once in a while baling. I also have thought of a cracked block, i have talked to a few other gas start engine owners and they have run into the same problem and when looked at by a machinist it was not cracked. I never had any oil water mixing either so i think (hoping) i'm safe. Thanks in advance.
  8. D281 sleeves

    Thanks DWV, thats exactly what I needed to know. I just got to wondering after I saw the 400 sleeves listed for the what I was thinking was the older bore. Thanks all!
  9. D281 sleeves

    R190, thanks do you know what block casting the 400's used?
  10. MD not starting

    Sounds great also I've found that the fuel strainer on the carb right were the fuel line runs into it doesn't take much to get clogged, just a little mesh screen, that's hung me up before too (my gas tank and lines could use a good cleanning, the sediment bowel doesn't catch it all) good luck, look forward to hearing back! Sean
  11. MD not starting

    Hey I had a similar issue on my 450D, started trouble shooting thinking the worst and it ended up being it wasn't completely clicking over to gas. Tons of white smoke and almost starting. Like was mentioned earlier lube the linkage. also I click mine once or twice every time now it doesn't start right off, just to make sure it's switched over.
  12. D281 sleeves

    Thanks dwv, do you know if the later 400 d264 sleeves would cross to a 450 or did the 400's have a smaller parent bore? Nosih I will message you if you if that works to get some info on those sleeve and piston sets, thanks guys! Sean
  13. D281 sleeves

    Hello all, Looking for some info on 450d vs 400d sleeves. In looking to rebuild my 450D I have come across a much better deal on a set of 400 diesel sleeves & pistons. I always thought the parent bore on the 400 and 450 was the same but I noticed on bates website that they have a 4" I'd sleeve that is listed only for the older 8280 block casting number. Mine of course is the newer 347R5 number. Would the 400 sleeves work out? It equates over 500 bones cheaper, and for the minimal hp difference im ok with the smaller bore. Thanks in advance!
  14. Farmall 400 Diesel Problems

    Did you ever figure out your problem? How did this project end up?
  15. 450D engine noise, gas start diesel

    Thanks guys for the info I'll let you know what I start to find. Mcc if you dont mind me asking what was roughly your cost from LA sleeve? I took out #4 piston which was the second worst, top ring was the only ring that showed much wear, the piston itself miced very close to allowable, only the top was .0015 to .0025 out of spec (I caint quite remeber this morning) using the minimum allowable bore size, and the bore showed almost no ridge, really couldn't even feel it with the fingernail. Too bad it's cracked.