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eddie

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  1. All - thanks for the help. The 1086 I have is a first year build. The PTO is NOT push to engage. It is pull to engage. Last night I took a long look and figured out the problem. The link rod from the PTO handle under the cab was bent like a banana. I straightened it, adjusted the end and it now works perfect. The pull to engage uses over center linkage to snap it in place and hold it. The PTO now disengages and goes to full stop as it should. The forum is a marvelous place to get the input as I was thinking the whole time it was in the PTO itself where the problem resided. Thanks again everyone for the help on the PTO. I still have to figure out the T/A to see if it really is failed or if there is a valve or link that is not working right. I have no T/A at the moment. Eddie.
  2. This is a first year 1085. New pto though. Boy told me last night he cannot get the pro to lock out when off. Lever does not come back. Going to look at adjustment later today when he is there
  3. I need to know if this looks right. This is the PTO control lever that looks like it was smashed and bent toward the rearend housing. might explain the problem if this is supposed to be straight as Jim Droscha indicated..... Please let me know as I can have it off and in the vice in 12.6723 minutes.
  4. I have the book. Will have to read the section. Did not have time to look as we made hay all weekend.
  5. This past weekend my boy cut hay with the 1086 and 1411 discbine. He told me when he was done that the PTO lever kept wanting to disengage. I won't be able to look at it for at least a week - and since we are done with first cut, I have time. Looking to see if anyone has any specific areas to check the linkage or if this is internal to PTO (which is new 800 hours ago). Thanks in advance for the help. Eddie
  6. My wife gives me grief because we have 3 more tractors than asses to put in the seat. I tell her they never break sitting in the barn. When they break, you better have something in reserve. 560 backup is the 400. 1086 backup is a white 2-85. For raking, the H backup is the cub. I will always have more than I need and guess what - they are all paid for, so if they sit they cost me nothing. boy scout motto anybody?
  7. What you do is go into the shed and get the 1086....
  8. Making the harness is no big deal. The factory wiring is garbage. Built before the days of heat shrink tubing and special connectors. Fortunately, I work for a company that supplies every kind of wire and connector to the trucking industry. I figure when I am done I will have about $50 in the whole rewire job. We have a small replacement fuse panel that will convert me to ATC fuses. I am also considering changing the whole system to circuit breakers. Wiring is something I can do in my sleep....so no problems there. I am interested in finding those gages from the combine. Plenty of scrap yards here.
  9. For the record, the fuel gauge does not work now. When we got the tractor we had no idea it was completely full of fuel. Boy hopped up there and opened the cap and it was full - but gauge did not read. The alternator and all the front wiring did not work. The connector under the right side of the floor panel was a mess and all the wiring had been eaten by the loom. Behind the oil filter the wiring was junk. I am not starting from the point where everything worked.....which is why I am relatively certain I will make the mechanical switch over and only have the wiring necessary.
  10. For full transparency, I only picked the tractor up in April. It sat this summer because we did not have time to mess with it. Now we are going to get it back together and I have full intention of keeping it until I pass....then the boy gets it. I was not considering keeping all the original stuff I strip out because it is nasty. Tractor was outside under a lean for years used to run a grinder. We only make hay so there is no heating the cab. A/C has no belt on compressor, so not going down that path. We are in Wisconsin. I think we had 1 or 2 days over 90 this year. We are close to Lake Michigan, so we are never exceedingly hot. Still hot - just bearable. I need to get a good look at the dash and make a decision.
  11. Hello All I have the entire dash out of my 1086 to correct years of corrosion. Lots of green from chaff resting on the connection points and imparting moisture. At this moment I thought to myself: I have a number of older tractors and every one of them has a mechanical gauge for oil pressure, amps, temp, fuel, etc. As the tractor is a manual start/start stop it does not rely on any electrical component to run. I actually replaced starter then hard wired to a single 1150 amp battery to get it started. Worked perfect and tucked in barn for winter. I see no reason I cannot make an aluminum dash plate and put mechanical gauges in the tractor. Has anyone done this? Is there anything about the tractor that I need to understand for operational purposes in making a conversion like this? The electrical for lights, etc., is a piece of cake. I can get all the switches I need to make the lights work. Actually going to add turn signals because we do a lot of road driving to customers. Thoughts? Ed
  12. The slip clutch is adjusted correctly. If it is too loose, the baler will stall out and the thrower does not work. Not concerned about that in the slightest. Just wanted to get the info to make sure I take care of the PTO servicing.
  13. to be clear. the JD 336 baler has a solid pawl that stops the plunger when the needles drop out of sequence. When that happens, the flywheel bolt shears - but the gear box is still direct to the tractor. There is a slip clutch on the baler that allows slipping in the case all that happens. It drags the tractor to 0 rpm pretty quick. No damage anywhere when it occurs, and I already fixed it months ago. The brake on the knotter assembly had the old style shoes (worn out) and when the baler bounced on a rut in the field, it would let the needles drop a small amount - enough to make the baler stop. New brake shoes fixed it. Happened to drop three times during first cut. never happened before, and should not happen again. I only used that information to demonstrate my PTO does not slip. It is rock solid, just need to make sure I maintain it - and learning how is the reason for the ask. tractor is buried in the barn now. I would assume the 1086 and 400 have that same PTO needing oil changed? H appears to be a lube through rearend. TIA for the help, Additionally, my 560 is a 58. first year lower serial number. in the 3800 range if i remember right.
  14. I am reading a bit about the PTO on the 560. I have never had any issue with mine. That stated - I have never changed the oil. Until this month, I was not aware that was a needed maintenance item. My PTO appears to be the "old" style. It does not have a square on the rod. Does anyone have instructions or pictures of how this should be done? I know my PTO is strong because when my baler goes into safety lock, it will stop the motor if I am not on the lever fast enough. I also know I should buy the book. Thanks in advance for the help.
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