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Joneebgood

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    Hudson Valley of NY - 12443

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  1. Hi John, We had my grandchildren here for the last ten days so didn’t get much time to work on the crawler until now. I opened up the final drive covers and tightened the brake bands. The left was steering okay and only took a turn or so but the right side took many turns. I know the book talks about a lock position and then backing it off a specific amount but all I see is a big nut on the long bolt. I tightened it up quite a bit and it was working great forward but wouldn’t back up without binding really bad. I just kept loosening until it didn’t have any interference when backing and left the adjustment at that point. It seems to work okay although it may work itself loose eventually. I then adjusted all the bolts and stops on the levers and foot pedal until I got as close as I could to the factory settings. The brakes seem to be working good enough for now but there is definitely a lot of slop and wear at each joint. None of these adjustments really made a difference on the clutch links. They are still backed out as far as possible but seem to be working fine so I am going to work the machine a while and see what changes or loosens up. Thanks for all your help. JIM
  2. Thank you for the offer, John. I may take you up on that. It looks like your overall length is 1/2" over my stock link. Currently I am right out to the end of the threads on the bolt . Did 1/2" give you the extra that you needed? I don't think there is room to add any more than 3/4" anyway? First, I am going to loosen all the bolts and try and follow the book exactly on all the clearances and see if that makes a difference. My levers certainly have way too much play and the brake foot pedal does nothing so I should be able to improve on something. I will let you know how I make out.
  3. Thank you, John; I had just attached this question to my old posts about changing my clutch discs and TO bearings. I replaced the brake bands at that same time but really thought that was going to be straightforward. I have always been confused about the adjustment of the bolts at the base of the brake levers. I assume there is a procedure and I think I might have followed it at one time with no improvement. I put my shop manual someplace “safe” last year and am still looking for it. Things get harder to find as I get older. When you write “I had to make new ones, so I made mine longer” are you referring to lengthening the adjustable release shaft that actuates the brakes? If I can figure out a way to do that I thought I would give it a try first. I have also always wondered about changing the geometry at the top of the brake bands as there doesn’t seem to be enough travel there but really don’t know where to begin with that. I will keep at it. Thanks again for your reply. JIM
  4. Update – I am still not happy with the brakes on my IH500 I used my IH500 with Drott loader several times last summer mostly cleaning up brush and dragging trees. I am clearing a large area and got an early start this spring clearing the site of trees and stumps. My machine gets the job done but it seems like I really have to haul on the brake lever to turn right. That brake band just barely grabs. The clutch packs were cleaned up and reinstalled two years ago so they are not the best but it does seem to push good. I did install relined brake bands at the same time but they just never seemed to grab as quick as they should. I have both clutch release arms adjusted out as far as possible and I feel like they need more adjustment still. I hate pulling so hard on the brake lever as I know that must mean I am jamming the throw out bearing in farther than necessary at the same time. The brakes don’t grab well using the foot pedals either so it acts like the linings are not thick enough or everything is stretched. But, I cannot tighten the brake bands much more without them dragging on the drum. I just don’t feel like the steering levers are pulling back far enough to engage properly. I see there is a key aligning the clutch arm to the clutch shaft so I doubt if that has moved on the shaft but that is kind of what it acts like. I wondered if its possible to purchase a short, ½” NF coupler with male end to use in between the two halves of the release shaft to give me more adjustment? I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.
  5. Hi Ray, Sorry but I don't remember what washers I encountered. I was so worried about dropping them into the final drive that I pulled the shaft almost all the way out and that gave me room to thread a wire though the washer or washers and into the transmission. I made a loop of the wire up and out the top and left the washers in place. I am not sure they even dislodged. The 500 service manual describes a thrust washer, against an inner thrust bearing and also an inner bearing. The inner thrust bearing could be the brass spacer you are describing? I will attach the blowup from the manual in case you don't already have it as well as the pages from the parts book. Hope this helps, JIM
  6. Hello, John and all; I FINALLY have the machine back together and operating! A very long process but mostly because I had trouble finding the time to work on it. I buttoned it up yesterday, started it, and it steers nice and easy! Very smooth! You cannot believe the feeling of sitting there and knowing I had it all apart and that it must be back together correctly. I dragged some large logs for an hour or so and everything was uneventful. The left clutch, which was the rusted side, works with just a touch of the lever and the brakes seem fine. The right side still seems to bind as if the brake is dragging before the clutch is fully released. I am playing with the various adjustments on that and will see if I can improve it. The brake band adjusting nut on the left side is barely on the stud enough to be flush with the end of the stud but the right side has almost ¾” or more of stud showing through it. That was driving me nuts until I looked at my “before” photos and that was the way it was adjusted with the old linings as well. So, something is just a little larger or different between the bands and probably has always been. Getting the adjustment acceptable on the height of the clutch fingers took several assemble and disassemble processes. I couldn’t get the height even close on the left side until I put that extra disc back in where I had found it. Dave was right that someone had added it previously to get the correct thickness of the clutch pack. The right side fingers were just too low and tight but I did get that assembly thicker by swapping the newest fibre discs from the left to the right side. If John hadn’t told me about putting one disc BEHIND the C-clip I still would be fighting with this. I couldn’t get the finger height under the 4 ¾” maximum shown in the shop manual but I did get both sides to between 5” and 5 1/16” which is still probably better than they were before. The clutch adjustment shaft assemblies were screwed all the way out before and, although still out quite a way, definitely have some adjustment left now. There were several broken housing bolts from the last mechanic that I drilled and tapped so I know this is back together tighter than before. Maybe things will loosen up as I use the machine more but, for now, I am thrilled with the way it operates. I owe all my satisfaction to the help I received from everyone on this forum. THANK YOU ALL! I recommend lots of before and after photos to anyone attempting this as they gave me piece of mind on several occasions. Once I get this wood cut and split I will make time to sit at the beach! JIM
  7. Thanks for the photo, John. That's exactly what I need. I don't seem to have those pages in my manuals . I was able to find the rest of the clutch section on an earlier post. I must admit I now know part of my problem. I never realized that you start with one fiber disc BEHIND the c-clip on the hub! That never entered my mind and I would swear there wasn't one there when I disassembled them but......... That will change the dimensions I am sure. Now I just have to find time to take these apart again. Between work and too many plans on every weekend I have trouble finding a block of time to concentrate on the crawler. I will post some measurements once I get it reassembled correctly. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
  8. But......., something must be assembled wrong. The first two photos are the components of the left side and the assembled clutch pack. As you can see by the stack of washers, the distance under the clutch fork on the left side is now 13/16” but the right side clutch is only 9/16”. A full ¼” difference! I checked a photo of the left side before I took it apart and the fingers are noticeably higher now since I have taken out the extra fibre disc. But, those clutch fingers seem appropriate now, to me, as they should have some movement once the T/O bearing pushes on them. The second two photos below are the right side. I couldn’t locate a clear photo of the assembly before I removed it but I cannot imagine the fingers were this tight before. They are not even level but turned inward as if they are already compressed by the T/O bearing. The steel and fiber discs are probably thicker and in better shape on the right side but that shouldn’t make so much difference in the angle of the forks. Also there is red paint visible on the springs on the right side maybe indicating they have been replaced once but, if the left side hadn’t been so rusty, maybe I would see red paint there also. I have had this apart several times and everything is loose and seems assembled properly. The only disconcerting thing is shown in the last photo taken from the back of the right assembly. That space between the splines on the driven hub and the splines on the drum itself is much larger on the right assembly. I don’t see any way to change the location of the driven hub? It just lays in the drum and you stack discs on it, don’t you? I was pretty sure I kept the parts for each side separate but, maybe, I could try swapping the hubs although they do look identical to me. I would be grateful for any suggestions. Thanks, JIM
  9. I finally found time to clean up all the clutch parts. After sanding off all the globs of rust I finished the steel discs with 40 then 80 and finally 120 on the palm sander. They are all nice and flat now but definitely very pitted. The left side was the worse as that side must have been very wet at one time and everything was coated in rust. The hardest part to clean was the inside surface of the drum itself. The parts book shows that the base is a separate part but I don’t think they were coming apart. I used a 2” sanding mandrel and several grits of discs and pads and shined it up as best as I could. I reassembled both clutch packs leaving out the extra fiber disc that I had found in the left side. The first two photos below are the right side, which cleaned up pretty well. All the fiber discs were pretty near full thickness. The next two are the left side. The steel discs are very pitted and the fiber discs are thinner and showing quite a bit of wear except for the one that was doubled up. That one is new, at least on one side.
  10. Thanks, John, I was thinking the same thing but really wasn't sure what was best. I think Loctite is a great idea., JIM
  11. Hi, just an update. I am getting closer to reassembly. I took 220 grit on the palm sander to the fiber discs just lightly to break the glaze. I think they are fine. The one that was doubled up in error never rotated, as it was against another fiber disc, so that one looks like new, part number and all. I haven’t worked on the steel discs yet. They have some heavy growth of rust in a lot of places so they may be a challenge. I took my brake bands to FleetPride about an hour away and they replaced the lining and I had them back in about a week. It cost just under $150 each but that was still way less than I could find them anywhere else. The technician was sure the old lining was the original – from the way it was installed, I guess. I told him I was leaning towards a thicker webbing but he convinced me the ¼” had lasted almost 50 years and the replacement is the heavy lining with the brass reinforcement so why mess with a good thing. I hope I made the right decision. I will have to drill the lining for the mounting post they must fit over. Both throwout bearings were noisy and growling and the one actually stuck part way around several times so I bought new ones. I had to use a big socket of the correct diameter to drive the cast iron carrier out of the old bearing but the new bearings just slide right on. They don’t wobble but they do go on and off easily. I guess a couple of good pulls on the steering clutch levers will probably make them stay in place. I still have a lot of sanding and wire brushing to do on parts before they are clean enough to reassemble but… I am making progress. Hold CRTL and hit "+" to zoom in on the photos.
  12. HI John, I was actually wondering about that brake anchor pin myself. Mine are both definitely worn egg shaped although maybe not severe enough to cause a problem. The local IH dealer claimed he found a part number and did a nationwide search and located two of them at $85 each. Boy, they have no shame. I don't have his part number with me to compare to the manual but I am still not spending that kind of money. BTW, check my attached photo. My pin looks like a lug bolt with a locking nut under it and nothing like the shop manual. There does seem to be an outline of a hole just below it but there is surely no flat plate and bolts. Maybe it goes up from the bottom and just screws into the bottom of the case? If that's the case maybe you can get yours out without breaking down the entire tractor again. You mentioned that you had relined your own brake bands. Next week I will take them to Fleet Pride and get a quote from them for relining. My good one has 1/4" of material left in most places and Steve Dygert guessed that new ones were only about 5/16"? Do you think there is room to ask for 3/8"? The thicker the band the better I can adjust it maybe. Can you tell me what material you decided to use on yours. Brass wire impregnated or ? Also, I hate to keep asking but I am replacing both throw out bearings and was quoted 3 times as much for the guide sleeve that they ride on. I assume I can reuse my old sleeves but maybe the bearing is pressed on the sleeve? I didn't look close but it looks pretty tight. Thank you all for all your great help and advice.
  13. I finally found time to open up the clutch assemblies. Very interesting. The right side must have been replaced fairly recently as you can see in the photo. The discs are all quite thick and have crisp edges. The left side was giving me the most trouble and part of the reason is evident in the photo of the steel and fibre discs. There was an extra fibre disc in the clutch assembly! 7 steel and 7 fibre. It's easy to tell which one because one is almost full thickness and the others are worn much thinner than the right side. The extra disc was stuck fast on the hub. It was stuck at the teeth but they don't really seem any different than the teeth on the other discs but, this disc never moved in or out. One side of it has almost no wear and you can still read a part number xx5848R2 07184 (date code?) That extra disc made the clutch pack 3/16" or so thicker than it should have been. The clutch must never have been able to release all the way? The right brake band is serviceable although I should replace them both while its open ( best price so far $175 ea!). The left brake is down to the rivets on one end. The pressure plate face and all the steel discs are really nasty and the left brake drum has some pretty deep pits and craters. Is there a easy way to resurface all the steel discs or do I just put a fine disc on the disc grinder and have at them? Both throw out bearings were dry and rattled and even bound up when you tried to rotate them so I definitely will find new ones. One of the fingers on the left pressure plate was loose and rattled a little but, when I took the clutch assembly apart all three fingers were the same height. The springs and retaining spring seems fine so I guess I will just live with it as I don't see what needs replacing. Oh well, nothing major broken. Now it's time to try and source some parts.
  14. Thank you both. I couldn't find any servicing instructions for the clutch pack and I did wonder how much spring tension there must be on disassembly. I will work on it some night this week and see what I find,
  15. They're out! The pinion shaft on the right side came right out with just a little tugging with my hand. The left side was rusted fast to the clutch. I banged on it with a slide hammer for a very long time before it finally moved enough that I could get some Liquid Wrench on the shaft. Then I tapped it back in and beat on the slide hammer some more. What a pain. I assume the thrust washer that I was told not to drop into the final drive was the bronze bearing surface by the inner bearing? They were both tight to the housing so I ran a wire through and tied it off just incase they come loose later. The final drives look full of oil to just below the pinion bearings and all the bearings look well greased. Just lots of blue RTV on everything. The left clutch was pretty rusty although the housing was dry and the drains were open on both sides. I would guess the plates are fused together and no amount of braking would have stopped that side. The brake ban was down to the rivets in one spot so someone had been pulling it hard for a long time. The right side brake was at least 75% and looked good. I will send them both away to be relined. I now have to study how best to disassemble the clutch assembly without doing further damage. I am sure at least one side will need a lot of parts - cleaning won't be enough there. I got it apart I may as well fix it right. Here is a few photos.
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