Willie B

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Everything posted by Willie B

  1. Have you considered a gas tank? Mine is open, no doors, but could be done with doors. I used an 8 foot diameter, 5/16" thick steel gas tank. When they decommission these tanks, they must clean them out, so explosion hazard is minimal even immediately after removal of gasoline. A frame is added vertical around each end. I use whatever structural steel I can get cheap. Build two rectangles. Jack up the tank. Place a frame over each end, weld in place. Cut a seam in the floor, and halfway up each end. Using hydraulic jacks, spread the sides to 8' in width. Weld to the frame. Bury the bottom horizontal member of each frame.
  2. Side covers aren't complicated. I bet mine would serve as patterns. The many holes needed for ventilation will be a time consuming job on a drill press. Find someone with CNC plasma cutter. The master switch is available from Komatsu as a key switch, but even greater security could be had with a hinged cover welded on with padlock.
  3. Mine are factory original. I don't know if they were options, or standard. I replaced a couple from Winmill in Rutland VT. Anderson Equipment in Albany NY, and New Hampshire, and Pennsylvania come to mind, as does Finney. If your paint job isn't flawless, I'd weld on hardware for padlocks, and rattle can the paint for touch up.
  4. I am of the belief that the Saudi Arabians have a good system; get caught stealing, they cut off your hand. Get caught the second time, they cut off the other. Stealing after that is more difficult. Vandals are another form of varmint. They should be shot long range with flat shooting rifles, and left to rot as a deterrent to future vandals. Eventually the population of vandals will be in control. Willie
  5. My TD7G has lock mechanisms on the control panel, hydraulic tank, fuel tank, radiator, and oil check access doors, and tool box. I bet any parts that fit mine might fit yours.
  6. When I first owned a backhoe, I had no big truck, or big trailer. I did a replacement of a direct buried 200 amp secondary to an old farmhouse converted to an office building. There were once six huge pine trees in front of it. One was gone. As I remembered it I could remember the tree being cut in the early seventies. Surely the white pine stump near four foot diameter was rotten by then. A hump in the lawn surrounding the stump would yield 4 yards of desperately needed topsoil. I thought I'd scrape the rotten stump down to yield a flat lawn. It proved very hard. My John Deere 410 was no match for the stump. 3 hours later I had a hole as big as a Sherman tank. The stump finally collapsed to below lawn level, and I filled the hole. It was the most hard earned 4 yards of topsoil I've ever had. This afternoon I used the backhoe to plow 2" of hard crust new snow that fell overnight. On the way back to the barn I noticed a 12" DBH Sugar Maple with an insect girdle 12 feet above ground. It was sure to fall in a storm, ought to go. I banged it a few times to stick a bucket tooth, and extended the extend a hoe. Tree, stump, and root ball tipped maybe 25 degrees, Second push tipped it to lodge in another bigger Maple. I pulled it toward me a bit, and swung it to clear other trees. The whole process took a few minutes. I prefer my level of safety inside an enclosed Rops rather than stand with chain saw cutting a dead tree.
  7. No ripper, but in 1980 I hired a friend to dig a hole where I could build a house. The IH 150 with Drott Skid Shovel could be the same one. My home is an ancient mountain river bed. Untold floods have scoured it to the point that there is little gravel, almost all boulders up to 10' in diameter. John dug a hole 40 X 60' 10 feet deep, then filled in three feet with gravel with the 150. It took a couple days to get to depth. Then, he kept working one boulder loose at a time, backing up the ramp one bucketful at a time. That translates to at least 600 loads backed out. I'll estimate 60 hours digging. He never had a breakdown, and the tractor worked many years after that.
  8. At Interstate Battery they know me well. I ask for as much power as will fit in the space.
  9. There is such a thing as too high. The robust part of a tree trunk is not forever. You don't likely want it breaking off.
  10. Before I owned a backhoe, I took down trees with a Power Wagon equipped with two winches. My rear winch is capable of breaking 1/2" cable just above engine idle. My technique is climb a ladder to hang a big snatch block. Pass winch cable through it. One end of cable gets anchored to a very big tree with a nylon strap 6" wide. The other end at the winch with the truck anchored to another tree. The actual pull doesn't take long at all. Nonetheless, it gets me clean land with no stump. A small crawler is a great way to clear land. You haven't said where you are. If the ground freezes, consider winter dozing. Trees are brittle frozen, and you can snap the small ones flush with the ground. For 1" saplings, and blackberry brush, it's like shaving. Do watch for dead trees, or branches. I thought I could push over a 16" dead pine. It was broken off at maybe 40 feet tall. As I pushed, the top ten feet a foot in diameter landed on my air cleaner. My aging heart beat very hard for a few minutes.
  11. LOOK UP! stay away from dead trees, and dead branches. I don't have a crawler loader. I use a four wheel drive backhoe/loader, and a bulldozer. In trees up to 24" DBH I use the backhoe. I pound on the trunk a bit until I can set a tooth into the trunk of the tree, maybe 12' above the ground. I have extend a hoe, so I extend. This lifts roots under the tractor. Usually I repeat a few times, lifting the roots out of the ground. Smaller trees, I use bulldozer with blade square, and tipped down on stump edge. I pass very shallow, tearing a few roots, deepen slightly for next pass, repeat. I work around the stump until enough roots have been torn. Don't do this with trees big enough to fall on you. Bigger trees get cut first with chainsaw. One old guy explained to me that a non tilt crawler only lacks a rock to back onto to start. The trunk of a tree is a valuable tool. Trees small enough to not crush you,can provide a great lever to pry them out of the earth. Willie
  12. Suction, and pressure filters will be very different. Some suction filters are only cleanable screens. I have a manual that covers eight machines: 100-125E, G TD7E,G TD8E, G. the four machines were similar enough to be covered in one manual 100, and TD7 were one chassis, 125, and TD8 were very similar, but larger. The principal difference between E series, and G series was the engine. E engines were manufactured by IH, G series were Cummins. Only two blocks were used. Horsepower was changed by either turbo, RPM, or fuel rates through the injectors. My book is pretty good for service on your model, My parts book doesn't mention E series. Suction element number is 619 214 C1 for all four G series, O ring is 708 560 R1 for all four G series.
  13. The "shed" It isn't taxable as real estate, cost very little, and keeps most of the weather off/out. The floor is 4" stone Other shot is facing the other direction. Photos were taken at 2:25 PM Sundown comes early in the shadow of Dorset Mountain.
  14. Find your best tool for cleaning the dirt out of the undercarriage. I have an old gas tank, 10,000 gallons. it makes an inexpensive shed on a piece of remote land. The floor is raised above all surrounding soil. It is made up of 4" crushed stone. Air passes freely around the tracks. If you have a source for railroad tracks, several 8' long pieces laid crossways provide a good place to park where it can dry out after rain, or snow.
  15. 5W-40 it expensive. I have a theory: Oil doesn't need to wear out to damage your engine. Synthetic oil gets dirty from soot, and airborne dust as quickly as conventional. I feel more frequent oil changes are the cost effective way to pamper an engine. Rotella, I have read, has about as much zinc as law allows. Your engine wants zinc. I would use 10W-30 year round if temperature wasn't at risk of reaching 100D F. If you won't see very hot weather, the preferred oil is 10W-30. Flushing away abrasives is the most important function of oil. Lubrication won't happen if the oil is too thick to be pumped to ALL friction points. Thick oil aids the build up of sludge.
  16. "Gender:Not Telling" I don't understand? You aren't telling, or you can't tell? Willie
  17. I have old military manuals that warn of the risk of too heavy engine oil. They say the problem with too light oil is consumption. Too heavy an oil may not flow to all the places it is needed. Winter I use 10-30 Rotella, Summer 15-40 Hydraulics, and torque converter, I use Case/IH Hy Tran. I've read extensively about additives. Hy Tran offers protection I want.
  18. Exhaust is new, but stock from Winmill. Komatsu offers aerosol cans of Dresser paint which a wizard paint mixer at a NAPA store matched. Showroom stock it ain't, but I've strived to make it as functional as stock. I believe it to be a 3400 hour tractor, but I'm confused about tracks. Shoes are older than it would have had, and are 1" wider than correct. Chains are aftermarket. I ended up cutting 3/4" off the inside of each shoe to give clearance for the angle hydraulic cylinders. Since my son painted it I've used it in the woods. There is now a blemish, or two in the paint. Son is quite put out about them.
  19. I have TD7G Dresser, a close cousin to your tractor. Most of my parts have come from Winmill Equipment in Rutland VT. Reggie Lussier there is a walking encyclopedia of IH tractors. Anderson Equipment is a great source, and Finney is good, though I did have a problem with a used hydraulic cylinder they charged me for, but I never received. Weeks later, and several phone calls later, they admitted to not sending it. They eventually did refund about $900. I believe it was an error, and disorganization, not dishonesty.
  20. No, his is 4 tires. It obviously is converted using some farm tractor components. The bucket is symmetrical no mater which end it is on. I'm trying to remember, but I believe the hydraulic cylinders are from directly above the bottom loader boom pivots. The loader must be lifted with enough inertia to travel past center. I think the operator gets a big scare the first time over. His had a "roof" over the operator, but it looked homemade, maybe an afterthought. The two ended loader has an obvious appeal, both for tracked, and rubber tired vehicles before articulated loaders were common. MSHA might not approve these days. Willie
  21. A fellow 50 miles from me has an unrestored, but useable Oliver. It is a converted farm tractor. The track frames stick out the rear. Front wheels are removed, and the front of the tractor sticks forward. It is most unusual! Balance must be an issue, and drawbar turn radius seems a concern. He also has a loader I believe also Oliver, although it "don't exactly say Oliver on it anywhere", 4 wheel drive, loader bucket is reversible. It pivots on a strange mechanism, and scoops at one end, dumps off the other. No steering needed. The "ROPS" is clearly homemade. I'd guess the operator got tired of stray rocks hitting him in the head. Willie
  22. Value of TD15B

    An acquaintance has a TD15B about 1974. Clock reads 2000 hours, I'd be very surprised if it's accurate. Undercarriage is very nice. It was originally outfitted as a cable plow unit. The front blade mounts were used with a giant phone cable reel. Fairleads were arranged over the roof for the phone cable, and a huge BRON cable plow is mounted on the rear. He has removed the reel holder, and fitted it with a U blade. It has street pads added to the grouser shoes, which appear to be perfect. The BRON cable plow I consider obsolete, everything town to town now is fiber optic. Fiber won't tolerate being plowed in, it gets damaged. it's too big, and ungainly to serve as a ripper. Beside that, there aren't enough valves to do everything. He has very little money in it, I don't absolutely need it, but it is very cool. I'm considering owning it a couple years, then reselling. What is it worth? What should I offer? Willie