Willie B

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About Willie B

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/13/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Mount Tabor VT
  • Interests
    Too many to do justice to any. All involve working with my hands.

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  1. Have you considered a gas tank? Mine is open, no doors, but could be done with doors. I used an 8 foot diameter, 5/16" thick steel gas tank. When they decommission these tanks, they must clean them out, so explosion hazard is minimal even immediately after removal of gasoline. A frame is added vertical around each end. I use whatever structural steel I can get cheap. Build two rectangles. Jack up the tank. Place a frame over each end, weld in place. Cut a seam in the floor, and halfway up each end. Using hydraulic jacks, spread the sides to 8' in width. Weld to the frame. Bury the bottom horizontal member of each frame.
  2. Side covers aren't complicated. I bet mine would serve as patterns. The many holes needed for ventilation will be a time consuming job on a drill press. Find someone with CNC plasma cutter. The master switch is available from Komatsu as a key switch, but even greater security could be had with a hinged cover welded on with padlock.
  3. Mine are factory original. I don't know if they were options, or standard. I replaced a couple from Winmill in Rutland VT. Anderson Equipment in Albany NY, and New Hampshire, and Pennsylvania come to mind, as does Finney. If your paint job isn't flawless, I'd weld on hardware for padlocks, and rattle can the paint for touch up.
  4. I am of the belief that the Saudi Arabians have a good system; get caught stealing, they cut off your hand. Get caught the second time, they cut off the other. Stealing after that is more difficult. Vandals are another form of varmint. They should be shot long range with flat shooting rifles, and left to rot as a deterrent to future vandals. Eventually the population of vandals will be in control. Willie
  5. My TD7G has lock mechanisms on the control panel, hydraulic tank, fuel tank, radiator, and oil check access doors, and tool box. I bet any parts that fit mine might fit yours.
  6. When I first owned a backhoe, I had no big truck, or big trailer. I did a replacement of a direct buried 200 amp secondary to an old farmhouse converted to an office building. There were once six huge pine trees in front of it. One was gone. As I remembered it I could remember the tree being cut in the early seventies. Surely the white pine stump near four foot diameter was rotten by then. A hump in the lawn surrounding the stump would yield 4 yards of desperately needed topsoil. I thought I'd scrape the rotten stump down to yield a flat lawn. It proved very hard. My John Deere 410 was no match for the stump. 3 hours later I had a hole as big as a Sherman tank. The stump finally collapsed to below lawn level, and I filled the hole. It was the most hard earned 4 yards of topsoil I've ever had. This afternoon I used the backhoe to plow 2" of hard crust new snow that fell overnight. On the way back to the barn I noticed a 12" DBH Sugar Maple with an insect girdle 12 feet above ground. It was sure to fall in a storm, ought to go. I banged it a few times to stick a bucket tooth, and extended the extend a hoe. Tree, stump, and root ball tipped maybe 25 degrees, Second push tipped it to lodge in another bigger Maple. I pulled it toward me a bit, and swung it to clear other trees. The whole process took a few minutes. I prefer my level of safety inside an enclosed Rops rather than stand with chain saw cutting a dead tree.
  7. No ripper, but in 1980 I hired a friend to dig a hole where I could build a house. The IH 150 with Drott Skid Shovel could be the same one. My home is an ancient mountain river bed. Untold floods have scoured it to the point that there is little gravel, almost all boulders up to 10' in diameter. John dug a hole 40 X 60' 10 feet deep, then filled in three feet with gravel with the 150. It took a couple days to get to depth. Then, he kept working one boulder loose at a time, backing up the ramp one bucketful at a time. That translates to at least 600 loads backed out. I'll estimate 60 hours digging. He never had a breakdown, and the tractor worked many years after that.
  8. At Interstate Battery they know me well. I ask for as much power as will fit in the space.
  9. There is such a thing as too high. The robust part of a tree trunk is not forever. You don't likely want it breaking off.
  10. Before I owned a backhoe, I took down trees with a Power Wagon equipped with two winches. My rear winch is capable of breaking 1/2" cable just above engine idle. My technique is climb a ladder to hang a big snatch block. Pass winch cable through it. One end of cable gets anchored to a very big tree with a nylon strap 6" wide. The other end at the winch with the truck anchored to another tree. The actual pull doesn't take long at all. Nonetheless, it gets me clean land with no stump. A small crawler is a great way to clear land. You haven't said where you are. If the ground freezes, consider winter dozing. Trees are brittle frozen, and you can snap the small ones flush with the ground. For 1" saplings, and blackberry brush, it's like shaving. Do watch for dead trees, or branches. I thought I could push over a 16" dead pine. It was broken off at maybe 40 feet tall. As I pushed, the top ten feet a foot in diameter landed on my air cleaner. My aging heart beat very hard for a few minutes.
  11. LOOK UP! stay away from dead trees, and dead branches. I don't have a crawler loader. I use a four wheel drive backhoe/loader, and a bulldozer. In trees up to 24" DBH I use the backhoe. I pound on the trunk a bit until I can set a tooth into the trunk of the tree, maybe 12' above the ground. I have extend a hoe, so I extend. This lifts roots under the tractor. Usually I repeat a few times, lifting the roots out of the ground. Smaller trees, I use bulldozer with blade square, and tipped down on stump edge. I pass very shallow, tearing a few roots, deepen slightly for next pass, repeat. I work around the stump until enough roots have been torn. Don't do this with trees big enough to fall on you. Bigger trees get cut first with chainsaw. One old guy explained to me that a non tilt crawler only lacks a rock to back onto to start. The trunk of a tree is a valuable tool. Trees small enough to not crush you,can provide a great lever to pry them out of the earth. Willie
  12. Suction, and pressure filters will be very different. Some suction filters are only cleanable screens. I have a manual that covers eight machines: 100-125E, G TD7E,G TD8E, G. the four machines were similar enough to be covered in one manual 100, and TD7 were one chassis, 125, and TD8 were very similar, but larger. The principal difference between E series, and G series was the engine. E engines were manufactured by IH, G series were Cummins. Only two blocks were used. Horsepower was changed by either turbo, RPM, or fuel rates through the injectors. My book is pretty good for service on your model, My parts book doesn't mention E series. Suction element number is 619 214 C1 for all four G series, O ring is 708 560 R1 for all four G series.
  13. The "shed" It isn't taxable as real estate, cost very little, and keeps most of the weather off/out. The floor is 4" stone Other shot is facing the other direction. Photos were taken at 2:25 PM Sundown comes early in the shadow of Dorset Mountain.