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Everything posted by Red-to-go

  1. I thought I had the only one, I’ve never seen another like it. My neighbor who ran TD-9s on up actually said mine is oversized for the 6. I had always assumed that the dimensions of a 6 vs 9 would be too different but maybe this blade came off a 9? Would explain all the broken and worn out mounting bolt holes!
  2. Nice looking machine. Here’s the site you can get the year, no of 60 is right looks like a 1942 http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/3/2/3326-international-harvester-td-6.html those front idlers look like they are adjust out as far as they will go! You might have to remove a shoe and link to shorten the track up. I don’t know if I would run it that close to the end of the rail. That idler adjuster is at the end of its thread. How are the bushings in the undercarriage?
  3. Update: I adjusted (tightened) the tracks and adjust the levers and now it’s turning great. The bimetallics are a huge improvement! I’m not sure where the springs fit in to all of this now but I think tightening the tracks also improved the situation. I haven’t read that loose tracks make for a harder to turn machine but seems to make sense as these things turn better under load or uphill.
  4. Well the nightmare seems to be over. I bolted everything back up today and adjusted the brakes. I was able to creep it down off the hill onto level ground. The steering clutches still need some micro adjustments but it does seem the friction discs were the root cause of my slippage problem, however, given how touchy the lever and foot brake is on one side I do think Louie is right that the spring inside the steering clutch is perhaps close to the end of its service life. I forgot to check the specs on the spring when I had the clutch out and apart. I think the bimetallics will help a lot though, it’s already more responsive with them. I don’t know what the future holds. I don’t think I have it in me to another major repair on this machine if something new arises. I’ll be giving its fate a lot of thought over the weekend. Best Rob
  5. Thanks Louie, I should have read your earlier post more carefully. I already put the packs back together with the bimetallics and installed today. Was able to get the crawler moving forward and backward sort of straight without hooking up the steering linkage. While trying to get the master pin back in the track I had the track pop off while I was walking it slow. What a mess to do on a steep slope with a good chance of roll over. Grabbed the 20 ton bottle jack lifted up the rear and dropped the blade to get it off the ground. For reference the pin in my experience goes in easy on the bottom of the track near the middle with the track in the air! Finally got it in and lowered back down. My first memoir is going to be titled “Everything hurts and nothing works”
  6. Update: I’m ordering a new set of bi-metallic discs as well as steel discs. Not knowing if this will fully address the problem is a bit hard to swallow, but I figure at this point with all the input is my best decision. I think most medical decisions I have made were easier than this! Maybe I need crawler health insurance! I’ll update when she’s all back together. Rob
  7. Thanks all and thanks Louie for the spec sheet. The clutch height seems to make sense in theory. I did a lot of sanding to clean up, with those tolerances (.005) over that many discs in an old machine I could have passed a threshold. I have the whole pack apart including the spring out. I’ll take some measurements in the coming days. John from General Gear is also helping me troubleshoot and thinks it could very well be a friction issue. Since the drive sprocket still turned the clutch when I pulled it he thinks I did not break the pinion or bull gear in the final drive which is a relief. All I can say is that with the clutch rebuild a year ago the crawler was fine then incrementally I had to keep tightening up the steering lever linkage as it as started getting harder to turn and suddenly I lost all traction on that side. When I backed off the linkage thinking I put too much pressure on the spring nothing changed but it was slipping to intermittently getting friction but not enough to drive straight. I put a lot of load on this machine driving on steep hills and with the oversized blade and backhoe on it maybe it’s all too much and I’m just glazing up the discs over time. I’m guessing I have a warpage issue and likely have some bad steel as well as fiber discs. I’ll likely switch to the bi-metallic discs. This thing broke down right in front of my kitchen window so I have to stare at it every time I’m at the sink! At least I’m making progress (I think) it’s been the longest troubleshooting project I’ve ever done! Thanks for all the input. Rob
  8. I’m wondering if the clutch discs could be the culprit this is the side I sanded up and reused old fiber discs. I did not polish to a smooth like state but rather left slightly rough steel discs thinking this would lead to better friction. Upon Inspecting the steel and fiber discs it looked like many were not making good surface contact some steel discs were rusty and some fiber disks had a lot of smooth high points. I’m wondering if this is the case for the whole pack then maybe I’m just not getting good friction?
  9. Hi Chris, progress is slow. Just to recap why I’m in the clutch again, it is because the track on that side went limp with no traction. I tried a bunch of lever and brake adjustments but nothing worked. I thought I blew the final drive and I guess I’m still not sure I haven’t. When I jacked up the crawler and spun the final gear the steering clutch was spinning fine. I thought my problem was related to the bolt threading out of the steering clutch shaft (uncompressing the clutch discs) but if all that bolt and retainer does is keep the bearing in now I’m not sure that’s at the root of my problem. I dropped the oil out of the final drive and no metal in there, but I guess my question is, is there a way to check the final and bull gear without tearing into it? The clutch discs were only cleaned up and not replaced and they did not look great and maybe are not making good contact or friction and perhaps that it is why the track was not engaging. That’s the easy answer I’m hoping for but obviously if the clutch is out it would be nice to be able to assess the final since the clutch needs to be out for that jobSent from my iPhone
  10. Thanks Chris! All that’s true!! In a bout of frustration I got out the sawzall and 6 - 12” blades and just started cutting at the back where the clutch connects to the final drive plate. After the third blade I finally cut through the allen head bolt and bearing retainer and was able to finally lift it out. I thought I’d have to cut through the entire steering clutch shaft but luckily it was just the bolt. Had I remembered this side had the bolt I may have sawed it a lot sooner! The other side is different and has the larger retaining nut with crimp ring on the end of the clutch shaft. I will no doubt be using a lot of red loctite and a tack weld before both clutches go back in. I decided to pull out the other clutch to make sure it was also not loosening up. I’ve got parts, nuts, bolts scattered everywhere so with no short term memory left due to high cortisol levels to remember anything I took apart should make it really interesting putting this thing back together!
  11. I’m going to try and get the tractor more level, that could be part of my problem but that’s a guess
  12. Thanks, I guess I didn’t punch it hard enough. It’s getting a tack weld this time, but yes it’s so much harder to deal with the clutch in this manner. Maddening in fact. Anybody in the market for a crawler!
  13. Thanks, I’m at that phase and had the tabs from when I last pulled the clutch. They’re all bolted on. Unfortunately when the nut is off the clutch shaft the discs are no longer fully compressed
  14. Please help me wake up! After thinking I blew a final drive crawling up a steep hill I have now troubleshooted with the help of John at Tractorparts.com that the bearing retainer nut on the steering clutch shaft has spun off. I likely did not crimp the nut properly when I replaced the clutch discs last summer allowing it to come off. Anyway, now that the nut is off and clutch shaft is in free play the clutch does not have enough clearance and will not lift out of the chamber. I feel like I have tried everything to create enough play to get the nut to drop out but nothing is working. Has anyone ever had this issue and figured out how to resolve it? Tearing back in there was something I never thought I’d have to do again, and not being able to get it out is 10x more frustrating than the original job! Thanks Rob
  15. Looks great Chris, coming along nicely. My starter was acting up recently also. I pulled it and found that one of the wires to one of the field brushes on the commutator end plates was badly frayed and likely causing a short or intermittent start at least. Even though these staters are hard to find because of their reverse mounting and rotation parts are still pretty interchangeable on other aftermarket models. I was able to simply swap out the commutator end plate from a new starter I bought off eBay. Also whenever I have the armature out I give the commutator a good cleaning with some dental tools to clean out the grooves and then a light sanding with some wet sanding paper and CRC electrical cleaner spray just to brighten up the copper a bit. Works for me every time when I start having issues. Rob
  16. As promised, here was my solution to extend a bit to get the threads to bite
  17. Chris, I had my threads stripped/slipping at the end of the rod, I simply added in some square nuts to the front idler to act as spacers and with the added nut that MM mentioned gave me enough to bite on to. I'll try and take a pic of the mod tomorrow in daylight.
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