Jump to content

Red-to-go

Members
  • Content Count

    114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Red-to-go

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mariposa, CA
  • Interests
    1946 TD6 and 1947 Agricat

Recent Profile Visitors

968 profile views
  1. Thanks Chris! All that’s true!! In a bout of frustration I got out the sawzall and 6 - 12” blades and just started cutting at the back where the clutch connects to the final drive plate. After the third blade I finally cut through the allen head bolt and bearing retainer and was able to finally lift it out. I thought I’d have to cut through the entire steering clutch shaft but luckily it was just the bolt. Had I remembered this side had the bolt I may have sawed it a lot sooner! The other side is different and has the larger retaining nut with crimp ring on the end of the clutch shaft. I will no doubt be using a lot of red loctite and a tack weld before both clutches go back in. I decided to pull out the other clutch to make sure it was also not loosening up. I’ve got parts, nuts, bolts scattered everywhere so with no short term memory left due to high cortisol levels to remember anything I took apart should make it really interesting putting this thing back together!
  2. I’m going to try and get the tractor more level, that could be part of my problem but that’s a guess
  3. Thanks, I guess I didn’t punch it hard enough. It’s getting a tack weld this time, but yes it’s so much harder to deal with the clutch in this manner. Maddening in fact. Anybody in the market for a crawler!
  4. Thanks, I’m at that phase and had the tabs from when I last pulled the clutch. They’re all bolted on. Unfortunately when the nut is off the clutch shaft the discs are no longer fully compressed
  5. Please help me wake up! After thinking I blew a final drive crawling up a steep hill I have now troubleshooted with the help of John at Tractorparts.com that the bearing retainer nut on the steering clutch shaft has spun off. I likely did not crimp the nut properly when I replaced the clutch discs last summer allowing it to come off. Anyway, now that the nut is off and clutch shaft is in free play the clutch does not have enough clearance and will not lift out of the chamber. I feel like I have tried everything to create enough play to get the nut to drop out but nothing is working. Has anyone ever had this issue and figured out how to resolve it? Tearing back in there was something I never thought I’d have to do again, and not being able to get it out is 10x more frustrating than the original job! Thanks Rob
  6. Coming up a steep hill tonight to park it for the night and all of a sudden the right side just froze up. I redid the whole brake drum system over a year ago. Really hoping I did not blow the final. I was hearing a lot of popping recently but I didn’t recognize it as anything major. I thought maybe it was just the rollers or pins since there is some wear. I didn’t hear a pop tonight so fingers crossed I just have a rock or something jamming the sprocket.
  7. Thanks. I think with all that I’m gonna go for the rebuild option. When I searched for leather piston seals they came up on Amazon and MSC Direct. Amazon said ships in 1-3 months! So I ordered off MSC (1 week) and also ordered new nitrile o-rings and chevron packing kits as well. Here is link to the piston seals on MSC https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/59511014
  8. Never seen a ram with felt seals on the pistons. I know this machine is from the 1940’s but wondering if anyone knows if these can be replaced or upgraded? There is quite a bit of rust and pitting inside the cylinder as well as some gouges on the chrome of the ram I’m not sure a can polish out so trying to do the full cost evaluation before I buy new units, thanks
  9. That would be nice. Might need to add a remote blade lever too. Surprisingly I can rock 6 tons pretty good while digging with the blade up!
  10. Planted two bare root fruit trees today in less than 10 min, in the past this would have been an hour plus easy by hand - dividends! Starting to throw the left track so back to the maintenance stall! I’ve been able to pop it back on turning in reverse but don’t want to push it, throwing the track off this beast for good will mean pulling the blade off and that’s a process best left alone.
  11. Here are some pics its powered by a Predator 420cc (13hp) gas engine with electric start. 6 gpm bi-directional Nortrac aluminum pump, supplied by a 12 gallon Nortrac hydraulic tank w filter and 2500 psi pressure relief valve factory set to 2250 psi that matches the Kioti system. I’m running at 3/4 throttle so guessing my psi is a little lower. I plan to add a gauge at some point.
  12. The subframe is 2x6” 1/4” steel tubing, it’s pretty solid. That is why I went with a subframe option I didn’t like how flimsy some of the three points are, I would have twisted it for sure.
  13. I’ll take some more pics toward the weekend when the rain shuts off, 5 inches predicted now until Friday, she’s all tarped up til then. As far as future projects... not sure I do work this tractor hard so for about every 1-2 hours of run time I’ve got 4-6 in repair, mtc, or upkeep. A few weeks back I was ripping up brush with the blade and all of sudden saw diesel fuel squirting all over the valve cover, broke a fuel line when a branch come up from underneath. Last week it was the starter. I did a whole double clutch disc overhaul and they already need adjustment so all that to say I better pace my self! I just blew the friction discs on my little Agricat crawler so that’s the next job. I might also add hydraulics to it as well, not sure there is a place for those projects on this forum.
  14. Looks great Chris, coming along nicely. My starter was acting up recently also. I pulled it and found that one of the wires to one of the field brushes on the commutator end plates was badly frayed and likely causing a short or intermittent start at least. Even though these staters are hard to find because of their reverse mounting and rotation parts are still pretty interchangeable on other aftermarket models. I was able to simply swap out the commutator end plate from a new starter I bought off eBay. Also whenever I have the armature out I give the commutator a good cleaning with some dental tools to clean out the grooves and then a light sanding with some wet sanding paper and CRC electrical cleaner spray just to brighten up the copper a bit. Works for me every time when I start having issues. Rob
  15. Close up of bolt up before engine pump and tank went on, this is as close to tractor I could go since I was up against the drawbar pin under the oil pan
×
×
  • Create New...