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About Red-to-go

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Mariposa, CA
  • Interests
    1946 TD6 and 1947 Agricat

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  1. Well, I passed it on to it’s new owner today and starting issues came back. I do think the ring gear has reached the end of its service life. The new bendix is getting beat up pretty good. Have to hand spin the engine using the fan to find a good tooth spot to get it to engage. I’m sure he’ll be on here at some point for additional advice, so take care of him. Glad the tractor will keep on going. Some helpful links:
  2. I agree, double check the magneto is not grounding out when it shouldn’t. I disabled mine by cutting the wire
  3. I’ll vouch that the W89D plugs facilitate easier starting on gas
  4. Thanks James, you are right, the bendix is CW and the starter was also turning CW so not throwing the bendix out since both going in same direction. I realized the starter housing I was trying to use had the same magnetic field coil set up as mine but the permanent magnet field poles are in the wrong position. I went back to the original starter housing installed a new armature, bendix, brushes, nose cone bushing, replaced the battery cables and solenoid and it now starts like a champ. Ring gear is a little worn but new bendix takes care of that.
  5. Thanks, everything on the new starter matches, field coil wiring, armature brushes, etc., and when I put a jumper cable on it, it spins in the right direction CW. It’s only an 18 mo battery warranty that’s 4 years old now and subjected to a lot of hot sun so going to try that first
  6. Hi All, just put in a new starter and only swapped the nose come for my TD6. Wondering if I can get a consensus on why the starter bendix is not throwing out when I crank the engine. Today I also installed new battery cables, new solenoid and cleaned all grounds and connections well. I took the starter back out and hit with some jumper cables and it spins but bendix does not throw out still. Battery is holding at 12.8 V but wondering if starter is not getting enough amps? Thanks! Rob
  7. Try taking the inspection plate off the pump and make sure none of the springs are in stuck position. Had similar issue on my 6. Slight tap with hammer freed them right up. They seem to stick if been sitting for a while
  8. I thought I had the only one, I’ve never seen another like it. My neighbor who ran TD-9s on up actually said mine is oversized for the 6. I had always assumed that the dimensions of a 6 vs 9 would be too different but maybe this blade came off a 9? Would explain all the broken and worn out mounting bolt holes!
  9. Nice looking machine. Here’s the site you can get the year, no of 60 is right looks like a 1942 http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/3/2/3326-international-harvester-td-6.html those front idlers look like they are adjust out as far as they will go! You might have to remove a shoe and link to shorten the track up. I don’t know if I would run it that close to the end of the rail. That idler adjuster is at the end of its thread. How are the bushings in the undercarriage?
  10. Update: I adjusted (tightened) the tracks and adjust the levers and now it’s turning great. The bimetallics are a huge improvement! I’m not sure where the springs fit in to all of this now but I think tightening the tracks also improved the situation. I haven’t read that loose tracks make for a harder to turn machine but seems to make sense as these things turn better under load or uphill.
  11. Well the nightmare seems to be over. I bolted everything back up today and adjusted the brakes. I was able to creep it down off the hill onto level ground. The steering clutches still need some micro adjustments but it does seem the friction discs were the root cause of my slippage problem, however, given how touchy the lever and foot brake is on one side I do think Louie is right that the spring inside the steering clutch is perhaps close to the end of its service life. I forgot to check the specs on the spring when I had the clutch out and apart. I think the bimetallics will help a lot thou
  12. Thanks Louie, I should have read your earlier post more carefully. I already put the packs back together with the bimetallics and installed today. Was able to get the crawler moving forward and backward sort of straight without hooking up the steering linkage. While trying to get the master pin back in the track I had the track pop off while I was walking it slow. What a mess to do on a steep slope with a good chance of roll over. Grabbed the 20 ton bottle jack lifted up the rear and dropped the blade to get it off the ground. For reference the pin in my experience goes in easy on the bo
  13. Update: I’m ordering a new set of bi-metallic discs as well as steel discs. Not knowing if this will fully address the problem is a bit hard to swallow, but I figure at this point with all the input is my best decision. I think most medical decisions I have made were easier than this! Maybe I need crawler health insurance! I’ll update when she’s all back together. Rob
  14. Thanks all and thanks Louie for the spec sheet. The clutch height seems to make sense in theory. I did a lot of sanding to clean up, with those tolerances (.005) over that many discs in an old machine I could have passed a threshold. I have the whole pack apart including the spring out. I’ll take some measurements in the coming days. John from General Gear is also helping me troubleshoot and thinks it could very well be a friction issue. Since the drive sprocket still turned the clutch when I pulled it he thinks I did not break the pinion or bull gear in the final drive which is a relief. All
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