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Bdse25

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Posts posted by Bdse25

  1. 13 hours ago, Weapon said:

    If you buy a early MX series take the time and borrow the cab-lift kit from the dealer and raise the front of the cab and replace all the hydraulic hoses and I mean all. Brakes steering and any others. After that change out the rear lines to the 3 pt lift cylinders. You can kid yourself that fixing the one will take care of things but your wrong. Get them made at a decent hydraulic shop at a fraction of the dealer price. Only had one tractor give issues with the CAPS system and I got a rebuilt one out of the diesel store for 4-5k a conversion was going to cost 12k+ and not sure if they’re even available anymore. 

    John

    So what were the early and what are the later MX series? Like a 210 was the series before a 215 right? So if the model ends in a 5 there the newer models.  And which were known for electrical issues? Or are all the MX in the same boat there?

  2. So I’m in the market for a new larger machine. Thinking pull my 5200 Krause drill, maybe one day a big baler, tillage, and run a grain cart.  Was looking at 5488’s, then started looking at magnums, then the MX series. My question is are the MX really that bad? It seems for a nice 7140 7240 8940 or 8930 you pay as much of more than a MX 210 or 215!  I’d rather have something newer if the electric problems Arnt that bad.  I know the CAPS fuel system is supposed to be a nightmare but I’ve heard conversions can be done as well.  I’m not sure exactly on my budget yet but would rather spend a bit more for something decent.  I’m getting tired of spending all my time unfarmerizing used machinery lol. 

    • Like 1
  3. 3 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

    Neighbors use a 4640 that is weighted and dualled on their dolly 750 and run flatter terrain and they get pushed around in it.  I am not saying it can't be done, all I am saying is with the weight and our terrain here, I wouldn't.  They like the dolly because they can move it with their dually farm truck if needed.

    The one that was here was actually a pintle 750, I modified a 2 pt off a 7000 planter to go on where the pintle bolted in the tongue.  It was carried lower on the 2pt arms than the Deere factory 2pt, but I liked it as I could lift the drill higher going in and out of fields and for going up some of the knarly farm lanes here.

    Hmmm ok so from what I’ve read here it seems like a Deere might be the way to go.  I’ll have to keep my eyes open this fall

  4. Wow my biggest takeaway from this whole thing is how hard those drills must pull. I thought if need be I could get away with the 806 on one. Guess I was wrong 😂😂

  5. 18 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

    Never been around a Krause but was told the arm pivots on those wear just like anything else which is a big repair?  

    Only thing that makes a Deere expensive is someone who didn't keep after it.  I see later 750's surfing craiglist out west very reasonable, with the trucking they are still cheap, and most out there aren't run into the ground like guys here do.  Even a worn 750 will do a good job.  Yes, in our hills the dolly wheels are not a good idea, zero weight transfer and those drills are heavy.  Even a early one isn't bad, if the pivots were greased, and you also grease it, and those are sure getting cheap as everyone wants a late one.  Put alot of seed in the ground with a early one, did a great job.  

    5288drill.JPG.f2c74f667ac00accb305fd03f761a7a6.JPG

    So those Deere’s actually no till when they’re a bit worn?  I like the idea of a full row of no till coulters for doing some residue management at the same time

  6. 2 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

    Why you hung up on a Krause?  For what you can buy a late 750 Deere for, and the huge aftermarket support for them, let alone the factory parts backing, that is what I would go with.  15ft with 2pt hitch........possibly drawbar, but do not buy one with dolly wheels!

     

    I don’t have any particular reason to like the Krause aside from them being common around here and looking plenty heavy.  I always was onder the impression Deere’s we’re both expensive to buy and expensive to maintain with a ton of moving parts on the openers. The Krause just replace 2 discs and hit the road

  7. 12 minutes ago, Dasnake said:

    This can’t help cuz I know nothing, but what a great pic. Where ru?

    Palmerton PA. 30 minutes north of Allentown pa. View through the gap is of the Lehigh Valley about a month ago

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  8. Hey guys, I’m looking to get into no tilling beans and cover crops more. The neighbor has a Krause no till drill and is super pleased with it, and just from looking at them they’re definitely really heavy.  
     

    Anyone have one? How’s maintenance and repairs on them, any known weak spots? 
     

    ive seen 5200NT and 5250NT drills locally. Any difference between the two or one better than the other?

    Would a 1486 pull a fifteen footer around on my hills? Pic for reference.... we’ve got hills

    F2D4A1BD-3182-4AE7-966A-DEBB1925F0F9.jpeg

    • Like 5
  9. After reading all this I’m going to refill them and check in a few hundred miles.  We have maybe 5 loads of wheat to haul, then nothing until fall so plenty of time to rebuild if needed

  10. On 6/29/2020 at 2:06 PM, mikem said:

    I would be sure to leave a strong magnet stuck to the bottom of the housing to trap bits and pieces.

    Mike

    Both drain plugs have magnets in them and had the pieces stuck to them

  11. 53 minutes ago, mikem said:

    I would be sure to leave a strong magnet stuck to the bottom of the housing to trap bits and pieces.

    Mike

    Both drain plugs have magnets in them and had the pieces stuck to them

  12. 58 minutes ago, 660 driver said:

    Youll know if shes bad under normal operation. They will bang and clunk but sometimes only when differential is sending power to certain axle shafts. Rear ends are pretty easy but if shes noise free on good roads and no out of the field it should be ok for awhile. Youll have to baby him though. What engine? Big block or small block?

    3406 A set at 425 

    13 speed Eaton 

    sounds like I’ll put fresh oil in it haul what I need to to wrap up wheat harvest and then pull them apart before fall.  I guess it can’t be to expensive to get some bearings and throw them back together just to be safe

  13. 1 hour ago, 660 driver said:

    Chuncks usually mean its only a matter of time. Obviously its not a bearing if theres no noise. Does it have full diff locks and or a power divider? If so lock them in one at a time and listen for clunking. That way if its there you can isolate the issue. If its one of those things it probably got locked in with a wheel spinning which is a huge no no. Wheel slippage under load then suddenly finding traction is **** on semi rear ends. If no clunking with nothing locked in you may be ok for awhile.

    It’s got a power divider.  Rayco suspension. That piece on my finger came out the front rear with the power divider. The rest came out the back rear. With corn prices where they are im not trying to spend more than I have to

  14. Hey guys question for all you truck drivers and mechanics.  I bought an 83 kenworth W900, and decided to get some fluids changed.  Only hauls our grain 30 miles to the elevator. A few thousand miles a year.  After dropping the drain plugs in the rears I found these pieces.  I know from the previous owner that they never changed the oil in the last 5 years.  You guys think this is an issue or just keep on running?  No noises or anything to speak of

    49597E30-DCE2-4F77-9B72-4934750FE8C8.jpeg

    8D541D78-1DCB-49B4-9E9D-E5B6120C26BE.jpeg

  15. Ah I would go buy two brand new belts, of the same brand and size and just tighten that puppy until they’re both tight.  If they’re a matched set the tighter one will stretch enough to get the looser one tight. Lots of heavy duty applications using multiple v belts out there, just tighten her down till it’ll take the power

  16. 2 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

    I think realistically that only happens under ideal circumstances.  In the real world it is hard to get bone to disappear by composting.  To that end I have heard of livestock operations that ran deads through a pavement grinder to destroy the bones before the composting process.  

    Well it all depends what your composting. Keep in mind these are young hogs or birds!! Only a few months old realistically.  Bones get calcified with age, and that is what makes them hard to compost. I speak from experience that feeder hogs will only have the jaw bone and one other( I think in the leg?) left after 6 months.  An old cull dairy cow is an entirely different animal (pun intended) when it comes to bone decomposition 

  17. I believe composting is proffered if possible, put out 4 foot of wood chips or so, lay in a barn of hogs( what is a barn 2500 I think? And push another few feet of some organic material over the top.  Turn it in 3 months and there’s only teeth and a few bones left.  Toss it in the spreader and problem solved

  18. Hahaha come to Pennsylvania sometimE probably over half the corn in the state is planted with 6 rows or smaller. And about 75 percent is planted with finger pickup units.  Around here we make our money on a good corn basis and keeping costs low. Vac planters are “high tech” lol

    • Like 1
  19. I’m guilty of this in an off road haul truck back in my surface mining days.  Hit the lever into the detent to lower and took off. Lever must have popped back to the hold position When I swung in to get loaded the Guy in the hoe just shook his head.  Sure felt lower than a snakes belly in a wagon rut at the safety meeting the next morning.......

    • Like 3
  20. 2 hours ago, WyattFarmall said:

    The $1000 was for a brand new one that was slightly used, I paid $150 for my belt driven saw. I wouldn’t expect more than $300 out of one.

    Ahhh ok. I was going to say 1000 bucks seems crazy for that death trap.  Thanks for the info!

    • Like 1
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