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Everything posted by oldscoutdiesel

  1. My SM has the same Charlynn unit on it. Been that way since Dad traded a '51B JD for it back in 1962. He may have replaced the motor unit or the pump over the years because I recently found the used parts stored overhead in the garage. Not sure but I think the SMTA has a Behlen on it.
  2. My guess is H or M also. The belt pulley looks like a small one for an H and there are weights for a Cub Cadet. It's no more than a 2 row rig from the assortment displayed. I also see a drawbar extension, a battery box cover for an H or M, looks like a steel belt pulley for a C or smaller, and a crank for a smaller model.
  3. I faintly remember Dad having one on the farm as I was growing up and I thought at that time that a belt from an old treadle(foot powered) sewing machine, which was round, could be made to work in that situation.
  4. Looks like an old "M" that carried a mounted corn picker at one time. Was probably converted to 12V but alternator may be tucked up under hood. Also needs a carburetor.
  5. At least it looks like twin saddle tanks, cause you're going to need them with that 549. Expect 4MPG if loaded!
  6. If the gauge is accurate as shown in the picture and not just stuck, there should be plenty of fuel to run on diesel. As Hardtail mentioned, bumping the the switchover lever closer to diesel while running on gas allows diesel fuel to flow through the system and you might be able to bleed the injectors for air present while running on gas.
  7. Years ago I saw M88 tank retrievers work but they definitely are a little bigger.
  8. For what it's worth, my TD-14A parts book, TC-42B for Serial # 26,001 and up, shows the same part # you referred to for your 14, #50675DC. Hope that doesn't confuse the issue for you. My original parts book (worn and pattered) was printed 7/30/51.
  9. Do the starter bolts go through the engine casting and fasten in transmission tub casting?
  10. I don't know if the 14 and the 14A heads torque up the same, but I will try to look tomorrow. Otherwise your pattern looks like it would work just fine, based on other patterns I have seen over the years.
  11. As to the improvised coil setup on my 14A, I did it in this sequence. 1. I placed a push-pull switch on the dash, 2. Ran a 12 gauge wire from the hot or battery side of the dash mounted starter switch to the push-pull switch, 3. Mounted an old automotive coil inside the frame below the magneto, 4. Ran a 12 gauge wire from the other side of the dash mounted switch to the negative post of the coil (I still use the positive ground system of the tractor, if you have converted to negative ground, put the switch wire to the positive post of the coil), 5. Ran a wire from the positive post on the coil to the kill post on the side of the magneto. If you still have the wire from the magneto going to the kill switch in the intake manifold, you will need to disconnect it. The next step will be to open the magneto top coil cover cap and remove the coil wire that goes to the kill stud on the outside side post of the magneto. You will still leave connected the wire that goes to the points and the kill stud is also fastened to the condenser. The last step will be to run a longer coil wire from the frame mounted coil to the magneto cap. The thing that challenged me a little was the wiring of the coil. I finally decided that the wire from coil to magneto would be on the same side as the ground on the battery. That's why I mentioned above that you will need to watch where the polarity is. As I mentioned earlier, my 14A is 50 miles away and I probably won't get to it for a month or two. If you still want pictures let me know.
  12. My 14A is stored at the home place 50 miles from here. I think I can draw up the wiring schematic for it and somehow post it. I'm not at all good at that sort of thing but I can ask my son to help me. I'll have to look at my Super M to get the polarity right on the coil. I too may purchase a new coil for the mag or find a good working used one, but since the 14A is a working tractor and not a garage queen, I don't mind the change in parts if the tractor will simply start easily as it did when it was new.
  13. To change the mag out, you could watch where the rotor is on each and set the new to the same angle as the old one(14A), thereby keeping it in time. Or you might mark the direction of the new or donor mag(14) on the engine so when it's time to put it back, it will be in time on the '14. And I'm sure that you know that diesel mags run backwards to gas mags. As far as the "flippy thing" is concerned, I sprayed penetrant around the shaft going into the manifold and just worked it with me fingers, trying to make it snap back into resting position from its spring loading. Mine wouldn't snap very well either after setting for 10 years, but works quite well now. Good luck
  14. I understand that you wouldn't want to try my route, but when you try the other mag, you may solve your problem. I tried new plugs, points, rotor, condenser, rebuilt the carburetor (more than once), and was at the end of my rope. The add-on coil was an effort to diagnose and confirm a bad mag or not. I also had fire at the plugs, but not enough to start the engine. The fact that the ether didn't fire (to me) would indicate bad coil or closed starting valves. The coil could go dead (or the wire connecting it broke with age) but the starting valves going closed when the tractor has been starting OK up to this point still looks like a dead coil. Try the other mag and find if it helps.
  15. I had a similar problem trying to start 14A that had set for 10 years in a open pasture. The seller only wanted scrap price but I wanted to hear it run & he said he would help me. It would take a lot of ether to get it running but finally it would. It has still been that way for the last year until last Fall I mounted an old car coil to the frame below the mag, ran a wire to the stop screw on the mag after removing the coil wire from the brass shaft inside the mag. The other side of the coil got power from the starter power terminal to a stop switch that was wired to the coil. Made a world of difference! That engine starts in a few revolutions of the starter and once warmed up & on diesel, I shut the switch off. BTW, the generator is rusted tight so there is no charging system. You only need the battery for starting, at a minimum. Some day I will put an alternator and lights on it. I saw that mag fix at the Red Power Roundup last year in SD. You can use a higher priced Super Coil if you want, but I used what was easily available. I simply tucked the coil inside the frame so it wouldn't get damaged by the tracks.
  16. My TD-14A is started by a single 12 volt battery that has had to crank the engine successively for an hour every other day because of a weak coil in the mag. (I fixed that by putting a coil from an old truck on the frame and making a distributor out of the mag. Starts very easily now!) And many 14's with dozer blades on them had a front mount hydraulic pump that makes cranking impossible.
  17. I have a tank quite like that one that is ID'd as an IHC. The tag says it holds 51 gallons of gasoline. The large circle bolted on the top could be replaced by an in-tank pump for the engine. I drove a 2050 with the DV-550 V8 diesel and it had twin 50's. It hauled 14 ton of feed that I delivered throughout Nebraska, Iowa and Minnesota from the feed mill located in Beemer, Nebraska from 1973 - 1977. It was a twin screw with 5 speed transmission and a 3 speed rear end.
  18. My little pocket serial # book uses the UDFM to describe both the UD-14 & UD-14A engines.
  19. I sold a loader similar to your 250 last fall and the previous owner had disconnected the linkage by pulling a pin or 2, thus disabling the auto level feature.
  20. It also has the optional front tow hook that attaches to the rock guard under the engine.
  21. I was around a John Deere back in 1969 on the Continental Divide between Idaho and Montana when I worked on a crew up there in the summer. Was capable but we Clarks also.
  22. Boy did you ever luck out! Original lights, straight- not all beat up, and I see an hour meter on the right side of the engine!
  23. I have a '67 full top with the 196, 4 speed, 2 stick transfer case. In 1978, we drove it from Nebraska to eastern Idaho for Thanksgiving. It made 20 miles to the gallon going out and 21 coming back because we had it locked in FWD the first 250 miles. Fun little truck.
  24. Is your battery set up as a positive ground or negative ground? If your other tractors are negative, gas engined motors, you may have the polarity wrong on the coil. I found that on a TD6 I got running for a friend a few years ago because the relatives thought there was only 1 system for 12volt, negative ground.
  25. If they check the casting under the right side valve cover, the smooth area will have the engine size stamped in to it. I may be wrong, the front axle almost looked like a 7500# axle instead of a 9000# that i might think was under an 1800.
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