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magicmikey

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About magicmikey

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/14/1946

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    magikmikey46@outlook.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kamloops B.C. Canada
  • Interests
    I may be slow but my work is poor.

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  1. The clutch assy can be removed from the top. A clutch coupler sits ahead of the tranny input with 6 bolts at each end, removal allows the clutch splined shaft to slide rearward clearing the pilot bearing [ if not rusty ]. mike
  2. trying to find out why my 250 track loaders drive shaft quits turning when put under preasure

  3. Hello Bigiron From the TD6 you will need; starter rear b/h plate. there is a frost plug behind that can be rusty. flywheel and clutch assembly. if the WD is a foot clutch. oil pump as Dennis sez. has a front facing pickup tube for the second set of gears. front timing cover with front mount. mike
  4. The addy is " locknstitch.com" for video and kits. It is a 3 step process to complete the repair, it won"t crack in that area anymore as the stress is removed. mike
  5. G' day Mike I assumed Gras was set on the welding.🙄 L&S is pricey if only doing one crack as the first step is a " kit" with an assortment of pins. Still the best way to go imho. Life is good------but slower. mike
  6. Redturbo, I think the o-12 is really an I-12? It has the rear wheels with a band brake and a towing fixture on the front. The front wheels and hubs are replacements. Rear fenders are the same as the W-12 in the background which is correct. mike
  7. Gras, the seal can be replaced by sliding the motor ahead after removing the front spring and tipping the flywheel bac after removing the clutch assy. Much easier if the motor has to come out. There are 2 seal types, one felt and the other is a neoprene lip seal, with a corresponding crankshaft. The head gasket comes in 2 styles, seating on top of the sleeve or around the sleeve protrusion. No fire ring on this model. mike
  8. Hello Tim AFAIK the 2 are the same as the 378 has a longer stroke only. For a seal the dealer can order them, about $ 100 Canadian. mike
  9. In the first foto the adjustor has been " repaired" by adding the nut ahead of the casting. It will push the same as the internal thread. The sliders can be built up as well as the track frame wear spot. The second foto track frame appears to still be bent ?. mike
  10. Hello Chris The switchover lever should be the same as in the foto. The problem might be that the frictions in the bellcrank need adjusting. They are behind the domed shaped thingy at the cross shaft. The starter linkage has an adjustment for setting the switch distance. mike
  11. With the backplate loose as you pull the shaft rearward it clears the pilot bearing and all becomes floppy. Removing the pilot bearing grease zerk gives a bit more room to clear the coupler as the shaft comes up. mike
  12. Chris, the last member who repaired a similar loader was Doug Malone in Illinois. He repaired the steering clutch without removing the loader and was planning on then selling it. mike
  13. Too late for another anvil? This is a no-name brand as far as I can tell. Me and Loadstar need to meet so as he can have a "Canadian Blower and Forge" portable to set up his blacksmith shop. mike
  14. A " then and now " of my grandparents house with about the same time frame as Ralph`s mike
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