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Everything posted by Gearclash

  1. Yes. I have a 4 bottom setting here for garden use. Pull it with my 856. Semi mounted is nicer in the field put a royal pain for garden use in a tight space. Huh. You should see what the Europeans have hanging way out there . . . 5-6-7 bottoms and then rollovers to boot. Fully mounted. A moment of silence please for the 3 point components.
  2. Mine were vibrating pretty noticeably . . . especially the MX170, worst was around 1400 rpm. Been getting worse for long time. Good thing you mentioned the balancer . . . that might be a suspect on the MX135 if the vibe doesn’t go away with a new dampener . . . somehow that tractor seemed to have a different characteristic to the vibration -- and it came on rather abruptly.
  3. Welding really thin stuff is where either a 120V wire welder with flux core or a MIG with .025 wire is handy. Years ago I cut and rewelded Aaen pipes for a sled engine . . . talk about pop can thin . . .
  4. I was gonna say, doesnt look like a gross weight problem. More likely a weight distribution or brakes problem. Chain and binder on the back of the crawler are loose yet but the trailer ramps are up. My guess is they didn’t have enough quite enough weight on the truck and it started sliding. Reminds me of when I loaded my MX170 on a trailer in CT. I had blocks in front of all the trailer wheels so the trailer wouldn’t push the pickup away.
  5. If you didn’t know this already, your friendly John Deere dealer will probably be able to help you out there as Deere and Co. has been in bed with Kemper for a while.
  6. Hopefully that cures your problem. I’ve got the coupler out of my MX135 and MX170 at the moment. Dampener was getting loose in both. No rattle in either of them, just vibration. Both had the old style dampener in and I am going to reinstall the new style. The MX170 flywheel will need to be machined to accept it but the MX135 already has the flywheel that is compatible. These are the second and third MX Maxxum couplings I’ve done and on all of them the dampeners were worn and loose but the U joints were reasonably intact yet. Usually, upon close inspection, I can find at least the beginning of brinelling on a couple of the cross legs. I get the dampeners from Ag Parts and the U joints from the auto parts store. I try to get the Spicer U joints, although this time they gave me a set of MOOG joints and they look good too.
  7. Very good to hear of improvement from MinnesotaFarmall and searcyfarms! God still gives blessings we don’t deserve. @searcyfarms Our little guy is holding his own. Yesterday didn’t feel like progress really, as he was more miserable than he had been on Tuesday. But the medical staff seems to be pleased with how things are going. Really hurts to watch these little children suffer from this.
  8. LOL. Slight correction. Your utility ENDS here.
  9. I have discovered that with just a mini excavator, given enough time, I can unerringly find every buried utility in the vicinity of which I am working. I have long ago decided not to pursue a career in dirt work . . .
  10. Ya it’s hot. Was a one shirt day ‘cuz it wasn’t worth changing shirts; they’d be drenched right away anyway.
  11. Our little guy had surgery today midday to install a port for dialysis. By late afternoon he was hooked up to a dialysis machine. So far everything has gone well, beyond expectation. We are hoping this is the beginning of the road to recovery. It is in God’s hands, not ours.
  12. @searcyfarms good to hear there is progress!
  13. Yes. This has the same effect on the shuttle valve as the “N” does on those machines, but then in effect it is doubly in neutral, as not only the F/R clutches have the pressure cut but the range is also disengaged. Once the range (or speed trans on the synchros) hits neutral, the computer puts the shuttle in neutral. There are switches that detect this on the gear selector linkages. Once the shuttle is in neutral, it is possible to put the range (and speed trans if synchro) back in gear and the tractor will not move, until you floor the clutch pedal and release it, then the computer will energize the selected shuttle valve. All the 5100s are this way and about the first half of the 5200s. It works fine, I put quite a few hours on a synchro 5140, but it is not quite as intuitive as the shuttle with N in it. And for round baling, with all the stopping, the shuttle N is nicer.
  14. Update on our little guy. He has been in the Sanford Children’s Hospital of Sioux Falls SD since Friday afternoon. He has the almost inevitable hemolytic uremic syndrome that comes with an E. coli infection of this strain. HUS causes the kidneys to shut down. This means he will need dialysis for while until his kidneys recover. Thank you all for your support!!
  15. Chuckle! And, if he does very much to the 4BT, he can also learn where the weakest point in the drivetrain is. I have heard of 4BTs getting jacked up to 700 HP. A high school classmate of mine shoehorned a “small" Cat V-8 into an M, pulled it exhibition. Wasn’t even hopped up a whole lot. It all ended in “TINK” and the tractor quit moving.
  16. My thoughts are with those parents and little ones fighting this. Our youngest (3-1/2) is in the hospital with E Coli 0157. At this point not in as serious of shape as the others mentioned here but a sick little boy nonetheless.
  17. @Delta Dirt Usually it is fungicide being applied to corn around here, but on rare occasion it is insecticide.
  18. I wouldn’t mind having a 5250 around either. Preferably a ‘97. Back in 2008 I was looking for a 5250, and learned an odd phenomenon about those tractors. Later 5250s with the N in the shuttle and in the 2wd configuration are scarce as hen’s teeth. Early tractors without the N are common enough as 2wd. I ended up buying a 2wd MX135 because of that oddity. I was determined to have at least 115 hp, 2wd, and the N in the shuttle.
  19. Yea I saw it. Will have to be another year I’m afraid.
  20. Not in any particular order. Farmall B. Grew up on one, handy yard tractor. Farmall 450. Grew up around one, was a miserable bugger to run, but that was because it almost always had a Westendorf loader hanging on it. I would like to own one that was free of that anchor. Would be the “big” yard tractor. 1256, with a diamond cab. So I can have an affordable and useful IH DT407. Would be a multipurpose tractor. Bonus: 1468. Just because. Kinda silly of me to want one as I generally despise diesel V-8s. I would find some work for it that was not heavy duty. Extra bonus. If I was independently wealthy. MX100, MX110, and MX120 to add to what I have so I could say I have every model in that series. \ Plus: a John Deere dut dut of some sort as a nod to my mother’s family Deere heritage.
  21. Ha! Yup! Have a skid steer loader that twice in a year has been down cause the ‘lectric starter crapped out. Coulda kept right on using it if it had a crank.
  22. I wouldn’t tear it apart just for minor leakage but I sure would replace the O ring if it was apart anyway.
  23. There should not be any significant amount of oil in the drive tube. The slide tube inside the drive tube has O ring on it that seals it to the drive tube and keeps the trans oil out of the reversible stub shaft cavity. The drive tube is a PITA to replace, and expensive, but I have found it is usually best to replace it if the snap ring groove is severely worn and/or the splines that drive the reversible stub shaft are severely worn.
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