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About Quinndog

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Middle NC
  • Interests
    Internal combustion and all things dino oil

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  1. Been a while guys, but I can't remember 100 percent on whether to check my trans fluid on the stick with the stick screwed in or just resting on top. I moved last year and misplaced my manual. Thanks
  2. Thanks guys, I will try to find a part number for the spring before I pull things apart. I have misplaced my parts book and am not familiar with the top of the trans.
  3. My 175C circa 1983 is running great when running. If it sits a couple of days it will power up and you can hear and see the trans build good pressure. If you put into gear it will go in the last drive position that it was in when parked. If it was in forward, it will go forward but won't in reverse and vice versa. Today I thought it would not work for me. It was in reverse and would work fine in reverse, if placed in drive it would start to go but just not quite get into gear. No matter what engine speed. What allowed it to work was placing in forward idle down and shut off engine, then restarted with it in gear. Worked all afternoon well. I am afraid I may not get it to work tomorrow though. Trans fluid is topped off. Any ideas what I am up against? Thanks, Quinn
  4. Dave, Once I saw that the rad was a soldered lower tank, I left alone and took to the rad shop in the frame. I needed a new core and let them repair with a new steel core. Never did get to see it out of the frame. Ended up paying right at $1600 parts and labor. Not happy but it did seem to be a good deal of work for the shop. I got it all back together and it seems to run and cool well now. Tying up other loose ends and hope to put it too work stumping and road building soon. My cylinders that I rebuilt are nice and dry and overall I am hopeful that she will work well. Fingers crossed.
  5. Sounds about right Dave. I got a Gates from Rockauto $107 shipped. Should be here Thurs and I will try to get her back together this weekend.
  6. Thanks Doyle. The older I get the more I pay attention to torque specs when I can. I used to just "feels right" everything and prob would do fine with that, but it is easy enough to follow procedures for a little piece of mind.
  7. Dave Changed my mind. I ordered a new water pump today. My luck would be that the pump would go out mid summer in a bad spot in the mountains. That would not be fun and I would lose half the money in antifreeze replacing it. If you happen to know the torque specs from an engine manual for the mount bolts that would be great.
  8. Dave, i just took it off because it was easy as it sat waiting for radiator to come back. Hindsight, I could have left on, but I didn't know what the impellers would look like. I know the machine has been neglected in the past few years and the water was very dirty as it was run for some time with no cap. Everything looked pretty good but I just cleaned the surface of the engine side with the grinder brush and removed the rough surface crud. Same with impellers on pump side. Am not planning to do anything further with the pump except replace once the new gasket gets here.
  9. Waiting to get my rad back from the shop after rebuilding with new core. Ouch! Anyone know the torque specs on the water pump housing? I hope to get it all back together next weekend.
  10. Got my feelings hurt a little today. Quote for a core delivered to me was right at $1000. I would still have to remove my bottom tank and resolder onto the new core. Have no way of doing this I don't believe. So I am going to take to a rad shop to at least see what they say. I guess if I get lucky it might be repairable. I does look to be in pretty sad shape though. I will let you guys know what I come up with.
  11. Thermostat and flush were the first things I did. Made no difference except the leaking sped up. Still overheated after about 20 min working. I know the machine was run for some time with no cap at all and actually had mud in it. Had done lots of flushing, but I guess the rad is just a mess inside. With the rad, are you just buying the core? Do I take apart (tanks off) and if so where do you get new gaskets and such?
  12. I got the nose off of my loader today. I opted to take the entire nose off and set it on the ground and then take out the radiator. Now what to do with the rad. I know that it is clogged and leaks. Is it possible that a local radiator shop can rehab it or do I need to look to have a new core made somehow? Are they made of aluminum? Should I look at changing the water pump while it is easy access? It does not leak so I would guess it should be working fine. The impellers don't go bad in them do they? Thanks.
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