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About SAM86

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 25

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  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '48 McCormick WD6
    '49 McCormick OS4
    '49 McCormick O-4
    '49 McCormick ODS6
    '51 McCormick OS6
    '52 McCormick WD9

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  1. Working on the mechanical assessment of our current O4 project. We knew this was a well used tractor as evident by many external visual factors and knowing the family it came from originally. The transmission will need all of the bearings and seals replaced. For the sake of expediency does anyone have a full list of the bearing and seal sizes for an H or W4? Not worried about part numbers just looking for sizes so I can start looking for the best/most economical options. I can start cross referencing part numbers and measure the old ones when they come out but I figured someone on here has already done this task and it never hurts to ask.
  2. Cant say if this would be true for your application, but on our "6" series diesels, I have seen where the throttle plate height was increased by removing the lock washer from under the screw head and placing it under the throttle plate. This allows the engine to have a few more RPM's on the gas side. After talking to a few people it seems this was a common thing to do to make them change over a bit easier in the winter and also change over as engines got tired.
  3. Im referring to the decompression valves. In our case they were cracking open enough to get a lower compression reading, but not open enough for the fuel/air mix to get to the spark plug adequately.
  4. Has your friend gone through and completely checked/adjusted all of the change-over mechanism components to to spec? Almost seems like the starting valves may only be partially opening. WD9 we have did something similar when we first got it. Ended up being the starting valve rocker arm was way out of adjustment and was barely opening the starting valves.
  5. And I thought I was being clever with the description of a three hole punch in my technical writing class....jeesh.
  6. SAM86

    Auction find

    Just for comparison to your "last ditch" 99, I have an early 1938 Nagoya built type 99. The earlier rifles had chrome lined barrels, metal butt plate, embossed safety knnob, folding steady rest and anti-aircraft sights among other items. This one has all markings intact as well, however the firing pin and safety knob were replace with period correct components as it was rendered "safe" prior to making its way home with the neighbor of my grandfather who served in the Navy during WWII. I havent asked but I'm not entirely sure how my grandfather who was Marine serving in the Pacific feels about me preserving this one.
  7. I made a puller for the injectors out of some c-channel. Bolted the channel to the injector and had two jacking bolts that pushed on the head to pull the injector out. All of the valves are available through various companies, the first on that comes to mind is Bates corp. Hold your breath and be ready for sticker shock. The shop that did all of my head work actually made me new staring valves cheaper than they could be bought.
  8. SAM86

    USS Hornet

    Watched a few of the videos on the RV Petrel Facebooke page. There was a shot of a high presure gas cylinder crushed like an empty beer can.
  9. Some are area dependent but to name a few....If you join one or two some recommendations start to show up for others.
  10. Yeah I didn't care about the drywall when I was painting, it has several damaged spots and has to come down anyway so I can insulate the walls. I just got the ceiling up, insulated and looking propper so now the "test spots" are starting to annoy me. Plus one of the overhead doors decided to commit suicide a week ir so ago so those are on the to-do list as well.
  11. Both O and OS models can be configured the same. No difference up front, on the O's, the rear hubs are inset for a narrower track and have to be this way for the rear enclosed fenders. OS models can run the hubs inset or outset, typically you see the latter for some additional stability.
  12. We are right in the heart of apple country in Sodus, NY. There were alot of the orchard series tractors used in the area. Big farm across from my grandparents old farm had five ODS6 tractors opperating at the same time many years ago. This is one of them. I recall seeing quite a few listed in Michigan for sale and know of some people making multiple trips to MI picking them up. You should be able to find one close. The rest of it is all timing. To be honest the IH and Farmall group pages and Marketplace on Facebook have been one of the best resources lately.
  13. Been a while since the last update. Mom, Brother and I are all kind of settling into a routine that works for us. This week is ending on the brighter side but started of horribly. Riley developed a serious intestinal infection that sent us back to the intensive care team in the NICU. He is back on full assistance untill everything is cleared up. We were very fortunate the staff is so in tune to what these babies are telling them they caught it quickly. Hopefully we can restart normal feedings by the end of this week.
  14. Sorry to hear and best wishes. There is a guy on Youtube that goes by "squatch253". He does a lot of restoration, repair and general antique machinery videos. He focuses mostly on old Cat crawlers and he has two prototype MM machines. He does very detailed restorations and repairs. The repair work on the MM tractor castings he is currently working on are second to none.
  15. My .02, if it were my dilema and the threads were gone and too fragile to re-thread or thread larger I would consider theses options in order of lesser prefderence. 1) drill out the remaing thread and make some plates with new tapped holes in them to line up with the existing hole pattern. I would install the plates inside the water jacket with some epoxy or other fastening method to hold them in place untill the radiator core is bolted up. The idea is to "sandwitch" the cast iron instead of relying on the cast threads. Any type of "sandwich" method will give you far superior support than just the threaded holes. Obviously longer bolts would be required. Once assembled its out of sight and no one would be wiser to it. 2) instead of plates epoxy or braze nuts under each hole, same principle as method 1, with less clamping area but may be more easily achieved. 3) get out the torches and wallet and build up each hole with braze. 4) build up each hole with the poor mans method (JB Weld) then re tap to the next larger size.
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