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About SAM86

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 25

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  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '49 McCormick OS4
    '49 McCormick O-4
    '49 McCormick ODS6
    '51 McCormick OS6
    '52 McCormick WD9

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  1. Not a whole lot of progress lately other than sourcing transmission seals and bearings. The good news is we finally got the call to come pick up the two H's. One a '43 (parts tractor) and the other a '44. Already have the parts tractor torn down and will be ready to pull the transmission internals tomorrow. Need to get the parts tractor apart and out of the way so we can get the other one up and running. Its a shame the manifold cracked on the '43, from the looks of it the head was just redone and I think pistons and sleeves too. Cylinders are all freeze cracked but I think the head is salvageable. If anyone needs H parts shoot me a message. After we pull what we need everything else is up for grabs. So far we need the gas tank, water pump, starter, radiator, push rods, oil bath cup, seat pan, tool box, misc transmission parts wheel weights, and other smalls. Has a really straight all fuel hood. First four images are the '43, the last the '44.
  2. Here is the parts break down. Yes OS and W are the same. I hope you find a set, haven't run across anyone who has.
  3. SAM86

    Making Gaskets

    Not at all, Ive made more than my fair share with ball peen hammers. It does help to have a couple different sized ones depending on the size and complexity of the gasket.
  4. SAM86

    Making Gaskets

    Varying thickness gaskets are used depending on the area of the tractor. Generally speaking when dealing with cast parts you want to use the thinnest gasket possible to avoid warping/distorting parts. The other main factor is machined surface finish, too rough and you need to step up a size to ensure proper sealing. I usually use 1/64 or 1/32 inch thick material for cast parts. Stamped steel parts usually need a thicker gasket around 1/16 inch for added conformance to part variations. The trickiest gasket is the transmission cover. Due to the overall size it can be very difficult to find stock material from local sources but, they are also available to be purchased.
  5. This is a long winded response, but Ill throw it out for information. Spring rate (tension) doesn't have a huge role in the over center clutches. The only purpose of these springs is to provide a small amount of tension to pull the pressure plate off the friction disc when the clutch is disengaged. This is necessary due to the free movement in the over-center cam arms. Luckily torsion springs are easier to reverse engineer vs extension or compression springs. Given a few known factors from the old springs including wire diameter, winding diameter and number of turns (although the winding diameter of the old springs is exaggerated from use) I can get very close to the original rate. I don't know the exact material (some grade of spring steel) and heat treat parameters of the old springs, both of which do influence spring rate and aren't to terribly difficult to determine (thanks to some equipment at work) but I don't feel its necessary at this point. Given the known factors, the springs I have are close if not a little stiffer than the originals, as would be expected and verified by my uncalibrated thumb. I may take them to work and check the old vs new spring rate to see how close I really am. There are many other "factors" that go into spring design but I'm not going to be that long winded. If your ever curious there are several spring design guides online and the Machinery Handbook has a decent amount of information.
  6. Still making progress, slowly. Just finished cleaning out the transmission case and preparing all the gasket surfaces. Transmission internals have been fully disassembled and put through the parts washer along with many other parts. All the bearings and seals have been measured so I can start sourcing all of them. Have a few dozen other parts in various states of disassembly and repair. One of the biggest steps has been making new clutch springs. They are actually pretty easy to make using the tooling I made. The original spring is by itself, the ones I made above it. Next task is to pick up the parts donor, if the weather dries up a bit. Brother and I were offered two H's from a friend of a friend. Price was too good to pass up so we bought both of them. One is definitely just for parts and will provide the majority of what we need. The other is complete and in nice shape so we will probably get that one serviced and up for sale. We wont be using all of the parts tractor so if anyone needs anything from an H let me know.
  7. They both have experimental rear hydraulic hitches. I'd sure be nervous using one, the single, very large hydraulic cylinder is right between the operators legs. There was another thread on here a couple years ago where guy saved one in a salvage yard, but only had the reservoir and cylinder left on it.
  8. It looks like an interesting road trip. But I may not be able to justify the 2300 (3700km) each way with the wife.
  9. I am always looking. Mostly depends on location.
  10. Thanks cbfarmall, that pushrod was the worst one. So we have the engine torn down as far as we will take it for right now utill we get the rolling chassis back together. Pistons and sleeves check out good and appear to have been chaged not too long ago. Main, rod and cam bearings will be replaced. Mains and rods were in spec but are on the extreme low end. Every gasket on the engine was leaking so that will be addressed as well. Outer axle bearings are shot so the hubs have to come off. I couldn't believe how much play the axles had. One hub came off without too much trouble, the other we need to get a little more serious with. Havent gotten it off yet so we pulled the axle, tube and hub off in one piece. Finished up this past weekend getting the transmission torn down. No missing or broken teeth but there have been alot of rolling gear changes. All of the oil passages, machined and cast were blocked with old gear oil and debris. Surprise of the day was finding one of the brake drums almost cracked in half!
  11. If you followed my other topics this one is logically in-line, here comes another orchard topic. Brother and I purchased this 1949 O4 last fall from the original farm/owners grand children. We have been friends with the family as long as I can remember. I'm not going call this a restoration thread yet as we are mainly mechanically assessing and fixing first. We are in no rush on this project and anticipate this one taking several years. Just from assessing its condition we know it is extremely well used and has performed more than it's fair share of work in it's lifetime. The tractor was missing the operator cowling and the side curtains. We knew of a set of side curtains for sale some what locally and purchased them right after we brought the tractor home. A few weeks later I located a cowling. Kind of cart before the horse but had to jump on the hard to find parts as they were available. Any chance of getting it running was quickly squashed as a hole in the manifold allowed water to destroy two intake valve seats, stuck several valves and 4 of 8 push rods were mangled. But, the motor was not seized and the cylinders look as if the were run yesterday. After taking off the rear wheels and the belt pulley unit we quickly found out any and all bearings in this transmission were history. Mice also did a number on the clutch completely filling the bell housing with a nest.
  12. Working on the mechanical assessment of our current O4 project. We knew this was a well used tractor as evident by many external visual factors and knowing the family it came from originally. The transmission will need all of the bearings and seals replaced. For the sake of expediency does anyone have a full list of the bearing and seal sizes for an H or W4? Not worried about part numbers just looking for sizes so I can start looking for the best/most economical options. I can start cross referencing part numbers and measure the old ones when they come out but I figured someone on here has already done this task and it never hurts to ask.
  13. Cant say if this would be true for your application, but on our "6" series diesels, I have seen where the throttle plate height was increased by removing the lock washer from under the screw head and placing it under the throttle plate. This allows the engine to have a few more RPM's on the gas side. After talking to a few people it seems this was a common thing to do to make them change over a bit easier in the winter and also change over as engines got tired.
  14. Im referring to the decompression valves. In our case they were cracking open enough to get a lower compression reading, but not open enough for the fuel/air mix to get to the spark plug adequately.
  15. Has your friend gone through and completely checked/adjusted all of the change-over mechanism components to to spec? Almost seems like the starting valves may only be partially opening. WD9 we have did something similar when we first got it. Ended up being the starting valve rocker arm was way out of adjustment and was barely opening the starting valves.
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