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About SAM86

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 25

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  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '49 McCormick OS4
    '49 McCormick O-4
    '49 McCormick ODS6
    '51 McCormick OS6
    '52 McCormick WD9

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  1. Been a while since the last update. Nothing really notable accomplished other than getting the engine out of the basement today. We have had two months of colds, stomach bugs and the flu going though everyone in the house. Thank goodness for the early, or so we think, spring so we can get out of the house. Plan is still to reassemble everything and begin work on the sheet metal. After everything is repaired we will worry about making it look pretty. One side track has been working on my brothers OS4. Just finished repairing the grill. Happy with the way it came out considering the amount of damage. In the mean time I think I will have to tackle a new shop skill and see if I can master making toilet paper next.
  2. I bet the "paint" was real nice though,
  3. Used hole saws in 303, 304L, 316 all the time. Starrett makes some nice ones that really hold up well. As previous said feeds and speeds are key along with generous coolant to keep the cutting edges cool.
  4. Fuel cap covers are done. I think I messaged everyone that was interested
  5. SAM86

    carb. float

    I bought a cork replacement material called Nitrophyl and made my own. Got the stock material from restoration supply out of California for a few dollars. Its easily machined with a lathe or basic hand tools.
  6. Grew up fixing, racing and building theses powerhouses of the 90's. From my experience don't waste your time with 96 studs, you will ruin the track as it will be severely under studded and you will more than likely put one through the front heat exchanger. I would suggest swapping the track to an 1-1/4 Camoplast Ripsaw, or the ice ripper. The ice ripper has pre moulded miniature studs in the lugs to provide better traction in icy conditions. Ultimately it is your machine and your preference. Personally I avoid studs in my own machines, but love them in customer machines. Service and repair bills were generally higher when working on them.
  7. Quick turn around from the shop with the head. Valves and guides still had more than enough serviceable life left in them so everything was ground, blasted, decked and checked. Engine assembly is done until its out of the basement. Still working my way through magneto's, have two firing with old stuff I had laying around but will need to get new points, caps and other bits ti get them in tip top shape.
  8. GVW no problem, but he forgot the red flag! someone might not seem them logs hanging that far out of the bed of the truck.
  9. Thats a good one, straight to the point. My preferred way of cooking bacon is on the grill. Throw down some aluminum foil to catch the grease, cooks quick and no mess or three day smell in the house.
  10. Always taken in good stride. I don't know if it would help or hurt for the two to talk. Maybe I spend too much time in the shop, I sure don't think I do.
  11. Mine has a slight kerosene puff a start up, but after that no smell (wife lets me know). I go through mine each season, clean the filters and check the pressures. If they are not set correctly they can be a smoke pot.
  12. To the contrary, married with a four and one year old. Having stuff in the basement shop helps optimize my time. I usually head that way around 9pm after the kids are in bed. No waiting for things to warm up. Also makes it easy for the kids to join/help. Our youngest spent the better part of the O-4 engine reassembly strapped to my chest in his carrier.
  13. I use kerosene torpedo heaters. 45 minutes of run time with 55,000 BTU's brings my two car garage up to sweatshirt comfortable. Only insulation is in the ceiling. 5-10 gallons of kerosene usually lasts me a winter. Depending on what I am working on, like big cast iron parts, I will place the torpedo heater close to where I will be working and let the hot air blow on them. You would be surprised how much heat a transmission housing will absorb and give off over the next hour or so when working on them. As common sense dictates, keep them aways from flammable or heat sensitive objects. Another alternative, and my biggest motivation boost, is to use your basement. I loaded mine up with an entire O-4 before the snow hit, except for the transmission housing and front frame. I can run down and work on room temp pieces as time allows and don't have to wait for a warm up. The fun part will be getting the fully assembled engine out this spring.
  14. Recently picked up a '37 F-12 that my brother and I are in the process of parting out. We are slightly stumped on what pistons are in the old girl and have not been able to find anything similar on the good ole web. Only markings are a "D" and some dots stamped on top. They protrude almost 1/2" above the deck of the block and have a large chamfer around the circumference. Definitely not M&W, possibly F-14? high altitude? other?
  15. Happy new year to all. As time allows we are still progressing through the mechanical side of things. Cylinder head is finally at the shop. In typical fashion we were tinkering with anther OS4 we have and lone and behold it broke loose. That head needed some work as well so why do one when you can do two at a time. Water pump has been rebuilt and a new/used adjusting flange installed. Thermostat housing has been blasted, thermostat tested and reassembled. Now onto magneto's, magneto's, magneto's. The good news, after going through the remaining parts, we are running out of mechanical repairs and rebuilds. All of the cosmetic work remains. We also picked up a '37 F-12 that came up for sale locally (the price was right) that we will be parting out. My initial thought was to give it to mom for yard art, but after accessing its condition there are too many good parts to let them sit. Sorry mom, I will keep looking. Lastly, a teaser of a some new years goodies that are soon to arrive that a few are eagerly awaiting.
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