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About SAM86

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 25

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  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    '49 McCormick OS4
    '49 McCormick O-4
    '49 McCormick ODS6
    '51 McCormick OS6
    '52 McCormick WD9

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  1. I have always gotten the best rates through local credit unions. Heck this last time it was even through one I wasn't a member of. Keep in mind the dealer gets a cut of the financing if you use there options. I always secure my own first and make them beat it. With the given auto market I would bet they could get you good rates just so they could hang onto a small percent that may still be a better than option than you can find. On the other hand, I could be completely wrong as well.
  2. Mine was free, but failed in the open position. Spoke with radiator shop and no dice. If its cloth they don't have a method of removing it and they cant disassemble the bottom tank. So, new thermostat is in and I am in the process of reverse flushing the radiator. Still have some stubborn plugged cores but I think the majority are open. Needed to use a 1/2hp sump pump to get enough water flow through the radiator to knock out as much cloth material as possible and it certainly did. Sump pump is plumbed into the radiator outlet and is pushing water out the top inlet.
  3. Thought I would get the water table, kiddie pool and giant dinosaur sprinkler setup for the kids today. Well needless to say they really didn't get used. On the other hand a sand box full of water provided all the entertainment needed. Next time I'll start with the sandbox first and save the extra water.
  4. GT&T, pretty sure the pivot pins for the dogs are welded in. Tried to remove the set out of the Continental impulse and it cracked pretty easy. I'm not 100% sure they are welded, but on all of the ones I have the pivot pins sit below flush on the reverse side making me question if they are rivited in. Thanks mmi. Just bough another core mag and the impulse is worse than this one. Gonna hold off on buying more unless I can inspect them first. 560, I needed to get this one going and out of the way for now so I need to revisit the impulse later. From what I visually saw, no appreciable wear marks on the bore of the dogs although there should be from tge amount of movement there is. The pivot pins very obviously very worn at the top compared to the good continental impulse I have. If you haven't seen one of these apart the pivot pins are hourglass shaped. The bearing surface of the pin is limited to two small landings top and bottom. For a quick fix I ended up adding two sets of shims instead of one set under the retainer clips holding the dogs on.
  5. I think the previous post misled where I was describing the wear problem. The dogs catching the trip pin is not the location where I am describing. The dogs are worn on the pins they pivot on allowing excessive tilt (when viewed from the side) of the dog. This is allowing the dogs to eat into the mounting flange and the four screws that hold the mounting flange onto the magneto housing. The attached images should help.
  6. Does anyone still make new Impulse assemblies for the H4 magneto's? Could have sworn these were still available but no luck finding one. Rebuilding the mag for my brothers C, dogs are badly worn eating into the housing snd screws. Parts mag is in even worse shape. Go figure the one good replacement I have is for the Continental engine so the keyway is in a different location.
  7. This may be a quick bandaid. You can try flipping the position of the throttle plate and lock washer. When I disassembled my carb the lock washer was under the throttle plate lifting it higher. I asked the question here to confirm the correct assembly configuration and was told this was a common trick to get a few more engine RPM when starting in really cold climates or for tired old engines. The lock washer is supposed to be under the screw head.
  8. All right gents I'm looking for some additional ideas as this issue has me shaking my head. I recently replace the cooling jacket cover gaskets on my ODS6 (same engine as MD, WD6, ect.) While the cooling jacket covers were off I flushed out the area between the cylinders removing all the loose gunk that accumulated over the last 70+ years. Water jacket covers were replaced with a good used set with good deflectors to channel coolant between the center cylinders. Also installed a new temp gauge. Long story short, first time out it got hot. Temp came down gradually but had to idle it for almost an hour and it plateaued around 200 degrees. Suspected a bad thermostat so I took off the radiator, thermostat housing and water pump for a rebuild since I was that far into it. Thermostat failed but was stuck wide open. I started seeing some weird material in the pump and t-stat housing. Looks like algae but after closer inspection I believe it to be some kind of cloth material that has been beat to a fine pulp by the water pump impeller. Sure enough all of the cores in my new radiator are plugged with it when looking in through the cap. Best I can figure is someone left something behind in the cooling system when the top end was overhauled two previous owners ago. I have already reverse flushed the radiator with some success. I will call a local radiator shop tomorrow to discuss additional options. I'm not sure if any type of radiator flush chemical would be useful when it comes to dealing with the cloth material. For the engine I am debating setting up some type of bucket system and running the engine to let pump circulate out any remaining material prior to reinstalling the radiator. So now my question to the community, what other clever ideas on flushing out the pulp like material from the radiator and engine do you have?
  9. Four years is fair for one of those batteries without any extra precautions. When it comes to ATV/snowmobile batteries I prefer the sealed AGM. Always had better luck with them. Two main killers of these small batteries. The first and biggest life shortening event is using too high of an initial charge rate during the first charge. I think most recommend a .2 to .5 amp MAX initial charge rate for a specific duration. Chased electrical gremlins on a ski-doo mach z 1000 sdi for days, including two new batteries. The gremlin was the local auto parts store charger slamming the new batteries with all the amperage they would take. The second killer is leaving these small batteries exposed to freezing temps without a full charge, this is especially true for lead acid types. I have a strong dislike of battery tenders so we bring our unused batteries into a conditioned environment for the winter.
  10. Heres the assembly. Gaining access to the tapered pin item 11, that holds the whole shaft in place is what drives the extent of disassembly. Second pic was the pump I tore down, really not hard to do, but keep in mind it was for parts only.
  11. Depends on location. Walk 300' south of this excavation and you cant sink a shovel in the ground without hitting clay and rock.
  12. I just took apart an "A" pump to find out this very thing as I have three other pumps on running tractors that need this seal replaced. Short answer, to do it the way the pump was constructed, yes darn near the whole thing has to come apart. Reason being there is a washer held in place by the spline of the governor arm shaft. The seal is behind the washer. Although it sounds like the washer is removable or not there on yours, in that case pop the seal and bobs your uncle. In my case I will be cutting the washer off the governor arm shaft to replace the seal. I have a method in mind to replace it but wont get into those details now. The "A" pump I disassembled measures 1.00" inch pump body bore and the shaft measures .403" inches. Pump body bore depth is .450" inches. Closest seals I have found are a Garlock 63X0027, although it has a slightly larger ID of .406" inches. And a CR (SKF) HMSA10RG 10x25x7 which has a slightly smaller ID of .394" inches. I will be using the CR seals with the slightly smaller ID. The governor arm shaft operation is just over 1/4 of a revolution, so the extra shaft squeeze is a mute point. If it were a high speed rotary shaft Id be looking at the seal sizing differently. Coincidentally these are the same size as one of the seals used to seal the shaft of the intake butterfly mechanism on the "6" and "M" series diesels because I had one on left over. In the same manner I chose to go heavier on the shaft squeeze there as well. This may have been too long winded but hope it helps someone.
  13. They are all in progress in one form or another. The OS6 needs some steering box work to eliminate a death wobble in road gear and has also developed a very unhappy bearing in the transmission. So some careful surgery will be happening in the near future. The OS4 just received a magneto rebuild as it was dead this spring when we went to get it out. Also explains why it was being miserable to start last fall. My ODS6 just went under the knife to replace the lifter cover, cooling jacket, and several other leaking gaskets on the replacement engine. The head was never retorqued after being rebuilt so that was done as well. Our O-4 is in process and is running again. Just pulled all the sheet metal out of the barn to get going on that. Helped my brother resurrect a very nice, original OS4. Just wrapped that one up a few weekends ago. Brothers ODS6 has developed several unknown leaks over the winter so we need to look at that yet. Oh, lets not forget we still need to get my uncles O-6 into the shop yet. Don't fret over fixing your hood. Take your time and you will be fine. Just make sure everything is worked back into place before welding in a patch. After the patch is welded in and the holes re-drilled do not attempt any more adjustments as the small welds will crack through.
  14. I for one am completely excited to see this finally in the shop. I as well as many other grandchildren have spent countless hours crawling on, over, and around this old crawler never having seen or experienced it outside of the barn. There have been many stories shared at family gatherings about the memories you "kids" (mom, aunts and uncles) have and created around this old crawler and the many other mechanical wonders grandfather assembled. Its time for this one to breath new life.
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