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wendyoakscubs

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Everything posted by wendyoakscubs

  1. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but take it to a real pump shop who works on them every day. Depending on how busy they were it would have been running in a week's time. Maybe you don't have one local, but even an hour drive and back is still worth the peace of mind. My .02.
  2. Bolt a pair on the inside of the rear wheels. More weight and not so much sticking out! I agree, I'd love to have one. Those small frame hydros have really been going up in price lately. I need to downsize a bit first.
  3. Agreed. Looks like a nice 656 gas, even a hydro I'd have a tough time with that price. To each their own..
  4. Definitely the buy of the week on the Cub Cadet weights. Nice buy.
  5. You probably know more and have done way more conversions than me. Just been down this road a few times. If wiring through light switch on the right stud will work then definitely would be the way to go.
  6. My apologies snoshoe. Typing thoughts as I think of this.
  7. To the OP, you're not eliminating the push pull switch by removing the black wire. Snoshoe is saying to move the wire that is on number 1 terminal of the alternator to the positive side of the coil and add a diode. That's where it can get power from to excite the alternator. Since the positive side of the coil hooks to the push pull switch it will still shut the tractor off, but only with a diode in the wire to number 1 terminal. To simplify, remove black wire from light switch and take the end of that black wire and hook to positive side of coil. That looks to the the one butt connected to the white wire on number 1 terminal of alternator. Add a diode in that wire.
  8. Would it depend on which switch he has though? There were two switches, one with low and high charge plus dim and brights (4 position) and one with just off, dim and bright (3 position)?
  9. Since you are using an alternator, the only wires going to the light switch need to be power to the switch and the wires going out to the lights. Other than that, don't hook anything charging related to the switch. Follow the first diagram you posted exactly.
  10. I have used the 4 position generic key switches before with an alternator like that. I'd take the stock light switch out of the box and put the key switch in its place. Then run lights off separate switch. Dim setting was useless at this point in my opinion. As was the high low charge positions if so equipped. These were on working tractors. I can see the point if wanting to keep original.
  11. Agreed with going to coil. Just going to the other end of wire.
  12. We got 20 acres of oats put in Saturday April 9th. A little tacky in the low spots before noon but by afternoon was getting pretty fit.
  13. Ok, hold up... OP...are you using an alternator or still have the generator?? Wording in the OP's post acts like he's using a generator but shows an alternator in picture?
  14. And also to add, I don't think the original wiring diagram is any use to you as far as the charging system goes. The light switch should have nothing to do with charging if you are using an alternator. Your alternator should be internally regulated and I would not recommend using the light switch. Again, just my experience.
  15. On the first wiring diagram you posted, in that wire from number 1 terminal of the alternator to the switch it has a small light bulb, like a charge light. That's the diode snoshoe is talking about. In that diagram they use a small light bulb (there's a better name for it but I can't think of it?) In line to cut charge power off so it doesn't back feed. Some people use a diode. Either way you're going to need one in my experience or a) it won't charge b) it won't shut off with the switch or c) it will be dead because the power will back feed and drain the battery.
  16. In my experience, if you use a three wire alternator like the one you have and wire it through the push-pull switch with no diode in the system, when you shut the tractor off the alternator will back feed through your switch and keep the tractor running. You either need to add a diode in the wire from, think number 1 terminal on alternator, to the push pull switch (I believe, someone may correct me) OR use a true one wire alternator that self excites and run the main lug on the alternator straight to the ammeter, and from the ammeter to the hot side of the starter button. You will also have issues with battery drain the way its wired now. If you used a generic 4 post key switch that has ACC-OFF-RUN-START positions, you can use the 3 wire alternator and hook both 1 and 2 terminals to the ACC post of the switch. Then wire accordingly. I have done this on working tractors and it is a bit tricky to mount the 4 position switch on the letter series, and not original, but parts are easy to find. Sorry for the long winded response. Just my experience.
  17. Hey, at least you're picking up your operators manual and reading through it...
  18. Sorry, 11 pages, feels like 13.
  19. Guy, I really hope you sit down and read that manual you posted above, whether you spend the money to get a paper one, or a CD, PDF, whatever. Read it while nature calls, or before bed, at breakfast, something. There's 13 pages here of you not knowing what the heck is going on with a piece of farm equipment. I get we all learn how to farm at some point in our lives but in my opinion, from what I've read here, please read the book and understand some stuff before you or someone you love gets hurt by you operating a machine you have no clue about. Same goes for your 1066. I mean that in the most respectable, honest, non-Jack a**way I can say it.
  20. I couldn't agree more. If the OP is having that many electrical issues, just make it easy on yourself. Bite the bullet and build/buy a wiring harness, replace components and carry on.
  21. Why don't you just take the loader off, if applicable, and fix all the issues on your tractor while the loader is off?? Sure, a non quick attach loader is no fun to remount or dismount, but sure beats complaining about it. Not trying to be a smart a**, but wouldn't that make a bit more sense? Just had to do this to my 504. Had a couple hours in mounting and dismounting the 2001 loader. But surely beat heaving myself over the loader arms....maybe I'm wrong, I don't know.
  22. Even though the pictures are black and white it Looks like they may have used red tractors as examples in that literature.
  23. Wow, thank you for posting that! That's very cool information.
  24. I suppose if the dealer had the time they may have peeled the stars off before they painted it red. My guess is the stars and miscellaneous demo info was installed at the dealer? Maybe some dealers didn't apply the star stickers and just used the cardboard signs? Hard to say this late in the game. Probably was determined by how much effort or time the dealer had. Mine fired right up yesterday with the starter. Put some coolant in it and drove it around. Engine, transmission and clutch all seem to be okay so far. Best guess was it was sitting for 20 plus years. Got it inside before the rainy weather came in. As time allows I'll go through it and make it more reliable.
  25. Second to last picture shows the hood and looks like there was one star on it. Very faint outline. Didn't see any on the grille, but it's pretty rusty. Can anyone else see what's left of stars on their sheet metal? I'm assuming the stars had words on them pointing out features of the tractor?
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