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wendyoakscubs

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Everything posted by wendyoakscubs

  1. I've got a set of regular 8 hole castings for double bevel wheels, came off a 460 with 2 3/4 inch axle. In Eastern Iowa, PM me if interested.
  2. They're not going to last much longer if you keep jumping them to start it. Ideally you need to put the batteries on a charger till they are back up to voltage. All youre doing with the jump pack is starting it with the jump pack, not the batteries. Do some tests. Your alternator is either shot or the wiring to it is bad. Ideally, you should actually take the time to track it down and fix the issues unless you love spending money on batteries and wasting time.
  3. Ended up taking the tractor for a drive for about 4 miles. No squeal. No drag. Drum was cool to the touch. I think for the moment it's back in action. Thank you snoshoe for your help.
  4. I can stop oil flow from the open bleeder with my finger. Has just a small amount of pressure.
  5. Jacked up right side with brake reassembled. Had slight drag but pumped pedal with tractor off to set self adjusters. Rolls nice. Put bar under wheel and don't feel any movement in outer bearing. Started tractor with right wheel jacked up. Still rolls fine, even after applying brake. So, maybe I was paranoid for nothing. Seems correct now. I was just worried about that oil flow out the bleeder.
  6. If I remember correctly that flat was in the right side. Found an original diagram from the service manual that showed it on left. So thought maybe I found issue with swapped spools. But, back to square one. I've had a helper (my father) with his hands on it too, so I will verify correct drum/disk placement in drum as well.
  7. Just double checked, the pinion shaft seems tight, no play, so I would safely say bearing is not bad. Cover would get warm, not hot to touch. There's no paint burnt off it.
  8. When I had the valve apart, comparing the two spool valves together they did not have the same machined "openings", one opening for oil would be different in size to another. One valve had a small machined groove in it, not very deep. The other did not have the same groove. Apologies for the bad terminology.
  9. It does not seem to have much pressure, but it will have a solid stream when the bleeder is pretty loose. The stream won't hit the bottom of the deck plate, but makes a puddle on the floor in decent time.
  10. The problem I've been having for a while now is the right hand brake has been dragging while moving. I have been through the drum and verified all the parts are okay. I have oil coming out the right hand brake bleeder valve while the pedal is up and the tractor is running. I read on here that should direct you to something wrong in or around the brake spool valves Next, I checked the spool valve clevises on both brakes to make sure they weren't bound up or getting slightly activated while the pedal is in "home" position. Adjusted and tried the right brake bleeder again, still have oil coming out. Left has none. Opened up the valve and can find no bad o rings. Put new o rings in from the case IH kit, and made sure I had the spools in the right sides (or so i think, because mine are different from eachother) and all said and done, I still have oil coming out the right brake bleeder valve. I can rock the tractor while and it seems free, but I'm thinking with tractor running, brake pedals not pushed, there should be no oil on either bleeder valve till the pedal is pushed? I'm assuming this isn't right? What haven't I checked or done correctly? Any ideas would be appreciated.
  11. I call them ground squirrels. Don't know if that's right or not. Get them bad in the yard here at home. They make you a better shooter for sure, especially when they are a few yards out. They are pretty skinny looking at a long range. Cats used to love to eat them but of course wouldn't catch them!
  12. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but take it to a real pump shop who works on them every day. Depending on how busy they were it would have been running in a week's time. Maybe you don't have one local, but even an hour drive and back is still worth the peace of mind. My .02.
  13. Bolt a pair on the inside of the rear wheels. More weight and not so much sticking out! I agree, I'd love to have one. Those small frame hydros have really been going up in price lately. I need to downsize a bit first.
  14. Agreed. Looks like a nice 656 gas, even a hydro I'd have a tough time with that price. To each their own..
  15. Definitely the buy of the week on the Cub Cadet weights. Nice buy.
  16. You probably know more and have done way more conversions than me. Just been down this road a few times. If wiring through light switch on the right stud will work then definitely would be the way to go.
  17. My apologies snoshoe. Typing thoughts as I think of this.
  18. To the OP, you're not eliminating the push pull switch by removing the black wire. Snoshoe is saying to move the wire that is on number 1 terminal of the alternator to the positive side of the coil and add a diode. That's where it can get power from to excite the alternator. Since the positive side of the coil hooks to the push pull switch it will still shut the tractor off, but only with a diode in the wire to number 1 terminal. To simplify, remove black wire from light switch and take the end of that black wire and hook to positive side of coil. That looks to the the one butt connected to the white wire on number 1 terminal of alternator. Add a diode in that wire.
  19. Would it depend on which switch he has though? There were two switches, one with low and high charge plus dim and brights (4 position) and one with just off, dim and bright (3 position)?
  20. Since you are using an alternator, the only wires going to the light switch need to be power to the switch and the wires going out to the lights. Other than that, don't hook anything charging related to the switch. Follow the first diagram you posted exactly.
  21. I have used the 4 position generic key switches before with an alternator like that. I'd take the stock light switch out of the box and put the key switch in its place. Then run lights off separate switch. Dim setting was useless at this point in my opinion. As was the high low charge positions if so equipped. These were on working tractors. I can see the point if wanting to keep original.
  22. Agreed with going to coil. Just going to the other end of wire.
  23. We got 20 acres of oats put in Saturday April 9th. A little tacky in the low spots before noon but by afternoon was getting pretty fit.
  24. Ok, hold up... OP...are you using an alternator or still have the generator?? Wording in the OP's post acts like he's using a generator but shows an alternator in picture?
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