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wendyoakscubs

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wendyoakscubs last won the day on September 22 2021

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  1. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but take it to a real pump shop who works on them every day. Depending on how busy they were it would have been running in a week's time. Maybe you don't have one local, but even an hour drive and back is still worth the peace of mind. My .02.
  2. Bolt a pair on the inside of the rear wheels. More weight and not so much sticking out! I agree, I'd love to have one. Those small frame hydros have really been going up in price lately. I need to downsize a bit first.
  3. Agreed. Looks like a nice 656 gas, even a hydro I'd have a tough time with that price. To each their own..
  4. Definitely the buy of the week on the Cub Cadet weights. Nice buy.
  5. You probably know more and have done way more conversions than me. Just been down this road a few times. If wiring through light switch on the right stud will work then definitely would be the way to go.
  6. My apologies snoshoe. Typing thoughts as I think of this.
  7. To the OP, you're not eliminating the push pull switch by removing the black wire. Snoshoe is saying to move the wire that is on number 1 terminal of the alternator to the positive side of the coil and add a diode. That's where it can get power from to excite the alternator. Since the positive side of the coil hooks to the push pull switch it will still shut the tractor off, but only with a diode in the wire to number 1 terminal. To simplify, remove black wire from light switch and take the end of that black wire and hook to positive side of coil. That looks to the the one butt connected to the white wire on number 1 terminal of alternator. Add a diode in that wire.
  8. Would it depend on which switch he has though? There were two switches, one with low and high charge plus dim and brights (4 position) and one with just off, dim and bright (3 position)?
  9. Since you are using an alternator, the only wires going to the light switch need to be power to the switch and the wires going out to the lights. Other than that, don't hook anything charging related to the switch. Follow the first diagram you posted exactly.
  10. I have used the 4 position generic key switches before with an alternator like that. I'd take the stock light switch out of the box and put the key switch in its place. Then run lights off separate switch. Dim setting was useless at this point in my opinion. As was the high low charge positions if so equipped. These were on working tractors. I can see the point if wanting to keep original.
  11. Agreed with going to coil. Just going to the other end of wire.
  12. We got 20 acres of oats put in Saturday April 9th. A little tacky in the low spots before noon but by afternoon was getting pretty fit.
  13. Ok, hold up... OP...are you using an alternator or still have the generator?? Wording in the OP's post acts like he's using a generator but shows an alternator in picture?
  14. And also to add, I don't think the original wiring diagram is any use to you as far as the charging system goes. The light switch should have nothing to do with charging if you are using an alternator. Your alternator should be internally regulated and I would not recommend using the light switch. Again, just my experience.
  15. On the first wiring diagram you posted, in that wire from number 1 terminal of the alternator to the switch it has a small light bulb, like a charge light. That's the diode snoshoe is talking about. In that diagram they use a small light bulb (there's a better name for it but I can't think of it?) In line to cut charge power off so it doesn't back feed. Some people use a diode. Either way you're going to need one in my experience or a) it won't charge b) it won't shut off with the switch or c) it will be dead because the power will back feed and drain the battery.
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