Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About wendyoakscubs

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

1,125 profile views
  1. Dad and Grandpa had 915's. Loved them for combining oats. Never had a pickup head. Cut straight out of the field. Grandpa had three different 915s and Dad and I had one. Worked on just about every part of one of them. Served us well for the age and condition. Got to know them inside and out so repairs were not a big deal. Three out of the four ended up getting cavitation in the sleeves so they went to pasture. Made more parts for the next one...
  2. Well I found a problem. Just pulled hitch pump apart and 4 out of the 7 bolts holding the pump halves together were loose. I'm guessing that's where my pressure was going and why there was so much turbulence in that area. Going to replace hitch pump and report back results.
  3. I had a chance to look at the innards while the tractor was running. I had a good amount of oil running down the right rear side. I had some drips coming from the 3pt lift cylinder itself. Also had oil spraying out towards the front left of the housing, to the left of the pto shaft and gear. Is the oil spray near the front normal?
  4. Well I hate to burst your bubble...but if you thought the 5th millionth 1066 was the 5th millionth tractor they ever built ...i have to agree with Big Bud guy...i doubt it is! Better crunch some numbers and see how bad they messed that one up. Old F20 has a lot of facts to prove it was the picture in the tractor. Read the article again. He said it's got silver paint on it. If it's that big of deal to you, ask him about it. He's the owner. I've met Old F20. I got no reason not to believe him. I saw it personally in Des Moines and appreciated the fact that he brought this piece of history to light for us collectors. Great restoration in my opinion.
  5. Thank you for the reply. I will check both here in the next couple days. I did have a large amount of oil coming from the top when I started looking into it. I have not checked since cleaning the unloading valve. Would an open unloading valve cause the stream of oil? What else would?
  6. Tried swapping relief valves with my 1206. No change. Where should I be looking next?
  7. I had a question about a 1066 I'm working on. It came in and customer said the 3pt won't lift. I did some messing around with it and found that the 3pt would lift by moving the remote. So, the IT manual said check unloading valve under seat. I did, and there was crud in the valve holding it open. I also replaced the o-rings in the drop valve as there was crud in that valve too. Well now 3pt will raise at idle with no load. To reset the drop valve, I put my 3pt snowblower on and adjusted the drop valve per the IT manual as well. Now my issue is the 3pt wont lift the blower at idle. Remotes seem sluggish at idle moving the snow spout (don't have a gauge to deadhead, but they seem slowwe than normal). Speed the tractor up to pto speed and works fine. Could this be a relief valve issue? I took the snap ring out of the one in the tractor and there was no debris in it. Prior to all this work, owner claimed he changed the hydraulic pump and fluid approx 30 hours before this repair. Why, I'm not sure. Just looking for some input on what the issue may be. Thinking try to swap relief valves? Thanks for any help.
  8. X2 to what Dan said. I've tried it with my dad's 1206 on a #200 fast hitch blade. It does not work.
  9. Looks like there were a lot of nice tractors there at the show this year. I am looking forward to next year's state show at Brown Farm in Central CIty. There was great attendance this past year and would expect it to be a very large show next year. Hoping to get something fixed up for it.
  10. Better yet...here's a test. Take the pin out of the adjustment clevis and let it hang out of the way. Try to push the lever down that the clevis attaches to. Does the arm go really far down or will it stop after an inch of travel or so? If you can move it to the point where the arm is straight up and down, looking squarely at it, you have a cam actuator problem or the band is broke. If it only moves an inch or so, might be bull pinion shaft seals need replaced or oil soaked bands(already mentioned) . Hope this helps.
  11. I've had a few letter series tractors with band brakes that broke the weld on the actuating cam inside the drum, which in turn will allow you to never get the brakes to hold or to adjust correctly. Pull drum, pull off the band and make sure the actuating cam (what the band attaches to) has no broken welds and make sure the shaft dosent spin inside the cams. My apologies if I don't make a lot of sense.
  12. https://desmoines.craigslist.org/grd/d/lathrop-ih/6821601855.html
  13. I have both a 460 and 560 gas. Both have fast hitches and narrow fronts. 560 has 16.9s on The back, 460 has 15.5's. The smaller lighter jobs I use the 460. The bigger heavier pulling jobs I like to use the 560. On the 460 the TA is your friend, it has no lug. Also seems higher geared than the 560. 560 has more lug, obviously because it has a longer stroke and a few more cubes. They both seem long to me while driving looking down all that sheet metal so one being more nimble than the other I don't see it. They both like fuel. They both have a wicked fast road gear. Both are hard to get on/off. I don't have any experience with the diesel models. The 60 series is probably my favorite tractor series.
  14. I should also mention the 371238R2 is a cast iron steel housing, and the 691789C11 housing is aluminum.
  15. I have a question for the experts... I have a Farmall 460 diesel that is currently torn apart. The D236 engine that was in it is getting swapped with another D236 engine I just bought. Going to put it together I noticed that the oil filter base on the new engine is not "notched" to allow the steering shaft to pass under it. I took the old filter base off the original engine thinking I could swap them. It looks like the original filter base, part number 371238R2 has the pressure relief valve in the housing itself and the base off the new engine is part number 601789C11 and it's relief valve goes into the engine block. Are these interchangeable? The bolt pattern is the same but the two housings and gaskets are not the same. Wondered if anyone has run into this issue and what they did about it. Im assuming the short answer is no, but i thought id ask. Sorry for the long post. Thanks for any help!
  • Create New...