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TGFAIN

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Everything posted by TGFAIN

  1. No, I'm referring to the 2 small round seals. I believe 1 is neoprene and the other is black rubber. They're in the complete gasket set, but they may fit a different application and are not used on the D361. Since I did not find any on the 3 heads I have, I am assuming this to be the case. Just wanting a second opinion. Thanks you for your replies.
  2. I need to clarify what information I am looking for. What I need to know is the order in which the seal fit onto the valve stem. There are 2 types seals in the gasket kit. Since the old ones were already gone, I am not for certain on the correct placement. I have looked for a breakdown that would show me, but haven't found one. It's been a while since I've done a head and have forgotten, but I'm certain that someone on here can tell me.
  3. Can anyone tell if the D361 has seals on the valve guides or boots on the valve stems?
  4. you are correct, I finally found that information in one of the manuals I have. I disassembled one of the other heads and the seat are good, so I will be using that head. Thanks to all who replied and tried to help.
  5. I am rebuilding a D361 for my International 1206. I have stripped the head down to replace the valves, springs and guides but I have some pretty bad pitting in the valve seats. I was told that some heads had replaceable valve seats but some of the earlier heads did not have replaceable seat. The earlier head had to have the seats cut down. My head is part #345149R2. Does anyone know if the seats are machined into this head or can they be removed? I have looked but I don't see any way to remove the seat. I also have a #345149R3 that I haven't checked yet. Does this head have re
  6. Ok, thanks. I'll split it at the transmission and go from there.
  7. I guess I didn't explain which seal I am needing to replace. If you look at the transmission parts diagram, #11 and #13 are the seals that I think I need to replace. My problem is the center compartment is filling up with oil and letting the oil run down the drive shaft and leak out into the clutch. I have the tractor split right now to replace the #3 seals but don't know the easiest way to get not the other seals to replace them. Do I need to split the tractor into 3 pieces or can I get to the #11 and #13 seals by taking the top plate off the transmission?
  8. I have a IH 504 that has started leaking hydraulic oil into the clutch. I am assuming that there is a seal somewhere that needs replacing, but I'm having trouble finding how to get to it. I have split the tractor at the front of transmission. Do I also have to split it at the back or can I that the top off to get to the seal? This is a non torque amplified tractor.
  9. Thanks to both who replied. You were right on your information. I got the seal replaced and am ready to start reassembling. I appreciate your help.
  10. This is the shaft I'm talking about. I need to replace the bearing and the seal behind it.
  11. I'm working on my 504, trying to replace the seals on the IPTO shaft in the transmission. How does the shaft come out? Do I have to pull the gear out to get the shaft out? I have already remove the throwout bearing and the cross shaft to the clutch pedal.
  12. Can anyone tell me what the injection pump drive shaft nut should torque at on a DT 361? It is in a 1206 IH. Thank you.
  13. Just a quick question, can you polish lifters? And if so, what is the best way to do this?
  14. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    I want to make sure, when you say "front side of bearing" do you mean the side toward the flywheel or toward the inside of the block. I polished the side inside the block using 320 grit wet sand paper on a solid flat surface. But just to be safe I'm ordering a new main bearing tomorrow and starting fresh.
  15. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    Thanks I copied that article for reference. O.K. Thanks
  16. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    By 'fitting the pistons to the liner' do you mean making sure the piston fits inside the liner easily? The answer is yes.
  17. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    I built a press, using a heavy plate on the bottom and a machined puck(for lack of a better word) and sucked it down into the cylinder with 3/4 fine all-thread. It worked great. I agree, I'm not comfortable with the .003. Tomorrow I'm going to order another Main bearing and make sure I didn't get a faulty one the first time. Then if I don't have clearance, I'll be making a trip back to the machine shop. Thanks for your input.
  18. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    I apologize if I'm not posting correctly. I will keep all my questions in one thread. This is not my first rebuilt engine, 2 years experience in tractor shop and 9 years in diesel truck shop in my earlier years. But it is my first DT361, and from what I've heard, they are in a class of their own. I'm just trying to make certain I get it right. The question about the pistons was for future reference. I'm not there yet, just checking others opinions. The question about the protruding bearing on #1 main: Flush end to end in the saddle, the protrusion is toward the front of the b
  19. Thanks. I didn't think there was, but wanted to make sure.
  20. Can you tell me if there is a certain position the crankshaft can be placed so that you might install all 6 piston rods without turning the crank?
  21. Can anyone tell me the thickness of the head gasket against the sleeve on a DT361 engine? Want to make sure I received the correct head gasket.
  22. I have noticed that the top #1 main bearing is not flush with the block. It protrudes about .020. Is this ok? The bottom bearing is flush. The bearings were all the same stock number, so I don't think I would have gotten them out of place. Should the top bearing be a different stock number?
  23. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    J-Mech, are there different sizes in thrust bearings. I thought there were, but when I try looking it up it only gives one size. Because that was my initial thoughts, that the thrust bearing was the wrong thickness.
  24. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    this engine is going to be the death of me yet. LOL I just went and picked up my rods from the machine shop. They pressed out the wrist pin bushings and pressed in new ones. I didn't notice until I got home that they had ground the sides of the rods. Is this o.k.? I am posting a picture of the rods they did and another rod I have out of another motor. I checked with a caliper and there doesn't seem to be any difference in the rods, but the bevel is gone. Are they o.k. to use
  25. TGFAIN

    DT361 rebuild

    We did have the crank ground, .030. But the thrust bearing was not ground. I have taken the thrust bearing out, can I grind the sides to get the clearance?
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