TGFAIN

Thanks to both who replied. You were right on your information. I got the seal replaced and am ready to start reassembling. I appreciate your help.

This is the shaft I'm talking about. I need to replace the bearing and the seal behind it.

I'm working on my 504, trying to replace the seals on the IPTO shaft in the transmission. How does the shaft come out? Do I have to pull the gear out to get the shaft out? I have already remove the throwout bearing and the cross shaft to the clutch pedal.

Can anyone tell me what the injection pump drive shaft nut should torque at on a DT 361? It is in a 1206 IH. Thank you.

Just a quick question, can you polish lifters? And if so, what is the best way to do this?

I want to make sure, when you say "front side of bearing" do you mean the side toward the flywheel or toward the inside of the block. I polished the side inside the block using 320 grit wet sand paper on a solid flat surface. But just to be safe I'm ordering a new main bearing tomorrow and starting fresh.

Thanks I copied that article for reference. O.K. Thanks

By 'fitting the pistons to the liner' do you mean making sure the piston fits inside the liner easily? The answer is yes.

I built a press, using a heavy plate on the bottom and a machined puck(for lack of a better word) and sucked it down into the cylinder with 3/4 fine all-thread. It worked great. I agree, I'm not comfortable with the .003. Tomorrow I'm going to order another Main bearing and make sure I didn't get a faulty one the first time. Then if I don't have clearance, I'll be making a trip back to the machine shop. Thanks for your input.

I apologize if I'm not posting correctly. I will keep all my questions in one thread. This is not my first rebuilt engine, 2 years experience in tractor shop and 9 years in diesel truck shop in my earlier years. But it is my first DT361, and from what I've heard, they are in a class of their own. I'm just trying to make certain I get it right. The question about the pistons was for future reference. I'm not there yet, just checking others opinions. The question about the protruding bearing on #1 main: Flush end to end in the saddle, the protrusion is toward the front of the block. It is flush inside the block. This is just something I am double checking before assembling further. The crank and main thrust bearing are what bothers me. I had to wait until the machine shop ground the crank before I could order the bearings because I wasn't sure what size I would need. That's why I was asking if there were different thickness of thrust bearings, possibly standard vs. heavy duty. Or do I need to take the crank back to the shop and have them recheck it. It's 100 miles to the machine shop, oneway. I have put pressure on the crank both ways and am only getting .003 end play . This was after I polished the bearing. The crank turns freely, but I'm concerned that it might not be enough when it heats up. I've been told that it will wear down and be O.K. But I've got a lot of money tied up in this to take a chance. The block has not been line bored. Can this be done after the sleeves are installed?

Thanks. I didn't think there was, but wanted to make sure.

Can you tell me if there is a certain position the crankshaft can be placed so that you might install all 6 piston rods without turning the crank?

Can anyone tell me the thickness of the head gasket against the sleeve on a DT361 engine? Want to make sure I received the correct head gasket.

I have noticed that the top #1 main bearing is not flush with the block. It protrudes about .020. Is this ok? The bottom bearing is flush. The bearings were all the same stock number, so I don't think I would have gotten them out of place. Should the top bearing be a different stock number?

J-Mech, are there different sizes in thrust bearings. I thought there were, but when I try looking it up it only gives one size. Because that was my initial thoughts, that the thrust bearing was the wrong thickness.