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7secondmalibu

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  1. My plan... Concentrate on wires 41 and 43 and trace them all the way back to the sending units. I could just ground both gauges in the dash to verify they work properly, if the needle moves between fully open and fully closed circuits, then the gauges work and the problem is between the wiring, the sender, or the senders ground. Next step would be string a wire outside the machine and direct connect the gauge to the sending unit. If the gauges now work, then the problem is in the wire harness. If they still do not work, then the problem is in the sender or the ground. I believe the temp sender the body itself is the ground. On my 1086 there is an external ground wire for the fuel sending unit to ground. Maybe the 1660 also has a ground wire. I'll need to find it. At least that's my plan.
  2. BOOM!! And there is your answer!!! Poor ground What I found was when I went to jump the solenoid at the rear of the machine I saw a very very small spark at the ground connection to the engine block. What it appears happened is dust, dirt, corrosion, whatever else made the main battery cable ground not make contact with the engine. The ground path during this ended up being starter to engine to chassis to 6 gauge wire ground wire to 4 gauge cab ground wire to main battery ground. That 6 gauge wire is what burnt up. It runs from the chassis to the 4 gauge wire just behind the door to enter the cab. I forgot to take a picture of that wire. Last evening I changed how the cables ground on the engine. I separated the cab ground from the engine ground to two separate locations on the engine block. Now the main battery cable ground only contacts the block and the contact point is isolated from any other ground wires. So all grounding has to pass through the engine block. Now I need to figure out what cooked in the gauges. Coolant temp and fuel level do not work. My guess is the back feed took them out. I just need to check power and ground at each. If I remember correctly the circuit is power from the cab to gauge to switch/sender to ground. I just need to see where I lost my connection. I cooked the gauge, the wiring, or the sending units. Old Grounding Method New Grounding Method
  3. I did just order the wiring diagram online. Still downloading. This old one has a ton of wire. I hate to see how much wiring is in the new machines. Probably 4x the wiring on the new machines.
  4. Yes, just last evening after all this happened. I didn't see much wire damage on that side. I had previous damage where mice ate the protective wrap off the wire bundle. It's that mesh wrap they ate. Never noticed wire damage on that side.
  5. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow morning. I have to work today and my day job. They are small 14 gauge ground wires just inside the access panel on the left side of the cab. (Ladder Side) They are in the panel just above the hydraulic valves and below that window. It looks like the previous owner had issues too because I saw a few splices that I didn't really like. The one ground wire that was chewed was previously spliced. The other ground wire insulation was burnt. The almost fire was the large cable just outside the cab that runs all the way back to the engine. I want to say it's about 4 gauge. I'm leaning towards contactor in the key got stuck in the on position or the solenoid welded itself closed and would not come off the contact. But neither explains the lights turning on while trying to start the machine or the digital dash flickering like crazy.
  6. Just about lost my combine this evening. I had 3 ground wires get mouse chewed. Actually 2 chewed and one got hot before and burnt the insulation off it. I replaced all of them and now I have a mess. The engine doesn't want to turn over. As I turn the key to start it, for a brief second while starting, the work lights come on, but seam dim. (light switch is in the off position) The digital dash flickers and sometimes gives information but mostly randomly flashes. The engine just barely rolls over. Not enough to start. This evening while trying to start it and turned the key to the off position and it keep trying to crank. I pulled the key out of the switch, it keep trying to crank. The ground wire by the hydraulic valves got really hot. And when I say hot, smoke started to roll. I started to panic. Not only is it the combine, but all my equipment is in the same building. It could have been a real mess. Any ideas? Bad switch? (Not sure why that would cause lights to turn on) Bad relay?? (still not sure why that would cause light issues) Both of those items I understand the possible bad contact and low voltage/amperage to the starter. If anyone has ideas, it would be appreciated. My dealer can get to me sometime next week. I will definitely drag it out of the barn before I do anything next time. Thanks
  7. License plate had to change since the video. LOL
  8. With the gear driven front facing supercharger.
  9. The best time was 7.50 at 195mph in the 1/4 mile. I always ran the street class. (Drag Radial) The video was created before I changed the car up to a gear driven supercharger and took about about 200lbs of weight. It was much faster after this video was made.
  10. Between farming and racing, farming is the least expensive hobby. LOL
  11. It's an International engine. It's an 87.
  12. Any tips or tricks before I start this job. Drain antifreeze, remove upper/lower hoses, remove overflow hose, it looks like it should come out the top vs the side. Fan shroud needs unbolted, possible fan itself also needs unbolted. I already removed the top sheetmetal the exhaust goes through after removing the heat crossover. I can figure it out, but if anyone has any tips they could share that would be great. It's always better to do this the easy way vs finding all the wrong ways first. Thanks in Advance
  13. I saw an old post that you have a 1660 service manual you can send in PDF format.

    Any way I could get a copy? 

    We just bought a 1660 a couple weeks ago and  every time we find something that needs work, my dad says "we better call field service".  At $400-500 per visit, no wonder he stopped farming years ago.  A lot of this is easy to fix if you think it through and the service manual would obviously be a great aid to answer any questions.

    Thanks

    Josh

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