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About 7secondmalibu

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  1. This weekend I'm pulling the pump and checking the Oring. If the oring is not blown I will be ordering a 17GPM from RedRunRite. Abiline said there's comes from overseas. I would rather spend a little extra for made in the USA. The guy I emailed at RedRunRight was very helpful in what to check first and look for. It's appreciated.
  2. Thanks, that's what I thought also was the older tractors had gear pumps. I may just call them today and ask who the manufacture is. Looking at the online images from Abiline machine vs Redrunrite and tractorpumps.com, Abiline machine uses a different manufacture unless they just use a photo of a random pump. The driveshaft side plate is machined different in the photos.
  3. I read some old post about hitch pumps and have a few questions. I see Abiline machine sells 17 GPM pumps for $340 and everyone else has them for $450. Anyone ever bought an Abiline machine pump? Is it a cheap Chinese knockoff and I should spend the extra money? Or same pump with less markup? I have a 1977 1086 which to me is a gear pump. The guy I talked to at Abiline machine insisted the older pumps are piston and in 1980/1981 is when they went to gear pump. I'm pretty sure he is backwards. I read all about the Teflon ring, so no issue and I'll probably just get one and install it during pump swaps. Are any adjustments needed when installing the 17GPM pump, or bolt it in and go? Thanks in advance.
  4. Thanks for the reply’s. It will be another week if the rain holds off before we can plant. Looks like this weekend I will be laying more tile. We ended up finding a few more plugged laterals. 3 total. Everything is clear now and this weekend the new lines will be in. At least that’s the plan. And if the trencher runs well while I have it rented I may add more y fittings to the other lines I have open for repairs.
  5. It's been a rough spring in NW Ohio. Very cold and very wet. Spring planting has been delayed as everything is cold and wet. I noticed a plugged tile and my dad and I dug it out and it's draining very well now. I have 1000 foot of new tile sitting in the barn and now I'm thinking about putting adding some Y fittings in this lateral. This tile was installed in 1976 at a depth of 36 inches and lateral spacing is 40 foot. There is roughly 1 foot of topsoil and then everything below that where the tile is is heavy clay. I was thinking with the y fittings to run 20 foot out and the run 500 foot length parallel to this older line and the older line will still be in use. Anyone see a problem with 20 foot spacing for a small stretch in the heavier soil? I notice in the spring the plants are always healthier above the tile lines. Will it hurt during a dry summer being that close?
  6. Sorry, that picture was taken at the place I bought the haybine at. I wasn’t paying attention to everything they had on their lot. I had tunnel vision. Lol
  7. Thanks, I was thinking about the haybine you told me about. Wish I had seen it before this one, but I’m happy with the one I purchased. The one you sent pictures of looked like a very good machine for the money. I would say the guy just doesn’t advertise it well enough or it would be gone instantly. While doing paperwork for mine, the salesman had a phone call and said he had money down on that machine and it was leaving shortly. My guess is someone called about the one I just purchased.
  8. Well I did it. I towed it home from Chillicothe Ohio to Gibsonburg Ohio. I left at 7:30am and returned home at 4:30pm. I thought in the travel position the haybine would have been more centered behind my truck. It really hung out on the right side. I made several stops to check tires and bearings. The bearings were cool the entire trip and the tires were warm. Not hot. Once I got use to it, I towed it at 50mph. It towed easy. At 50mph on a Saturday, I didn’t have much trouble with holding up traffic. State highways are the way to go. For the most part they have good berm for when I needed to get over. But every now and then the berm was rough. I didn’t even hit a mailbox. 😀
  9. I may give it a go towing it home. I just can’t take it on freeways when I pass through Columbus Ohio. Way to much traffic through that city. That’s the only place where I really do need to steer around and avoid highways and traffic.
  10. Just worry about a 200 mile trip. It’s 175 miles on highways. I figure using backroads I’ll have about 200 miles on the return trip.
  11. I’m looking at purchasing a New Holland 488 haybine. Finding a local deck over trailer to rent is impossible. Nobody has them. A lot of places rent a flat deck car hauler with 6 1/2 feet between the wheel wells and they are usually 14-18 foot long Anybody ever fit one between the wheel wells and hauled on a flat deck car hauled? It looks like it will fit if you remove the tongue. I just hate to drive 3 hours and find out it won’t fit. Thanks
  12. If I'm not moving for the most part it steers and moves the wheels fine as long as I have a head on the machine. But on rare occasion when not moving the steering wheel kind of jerks in my hands as I try to turn the steering wheel and I can hear the same higher pitch noise. But to be honest, the only time I steer when I'm not moving is backing it out of the shed first thing in the morning. I never really tried it at the end of the day when I experience auger issues. If the auger is returned, I just drive it in and park it. Usually I'm stuck in the field with the auger out and then I park it till the next day. That next day I fire it up, give it just a little bit of throttle and in she goes. My dad is all over me because he's been googling this and thinks its the auger return switch. He doesn't hear the same high pitch noise I hear in the cab when trying to return. Something is being energized without any doubt in my mind. I can hear it. My guess is if it was a bad return switch the valve would not energize to even try to return so I would never hear the noise I hear now. Everything would be quiet. We are going to move the auger out and he is going to hold the switch to see if I have that same noise. If that noise is still there, maybe if both switches are on at the same time it does something electronically I'm not expecting. I'm thinking both switches on, it's quiet and nothing moves. Maybe I'm wrong.
  13. Thanks everyone for the replies!! The relief valve sounds like it could be the issue. My guess is the spring gets hot from running all day long so the relief opens earlier then when it's cold. Since it requires less pressure to extend the auger because of the piston surface area, it swings out fine with the reduced pressure. But to return it there is not enough piston area to push on due to the rod being on that side of the piston. So that coupled with the reduced pressure from the relief valve opening sooner could be causing this issue. I see some people are putting a small washer in to increase spring tension. I think this winter I'll remove the directional valve and clean it real well and most importantly clean the pressure relief valve and shim the spring. Hopefully next year I'm not stuck in the middle of the field. Thanks again for the replies.
  14. This is the direction I'm leaning towards this off season. It won't cost me anything to take it apart and clean it real good. Just wondering if there are any other ideas as well.
  15. Yes, I considered that as well. We deal with that at work a lot with wedge locks on machines. The side with the rod has less surface area then the side with only the piston. So with pneumatic locks we always run about 1/2 the PSI on the pistons side as we do the shafted side so we don't stick the wedges. But with this auger we are not wedging and it runs fine the very next day. The fact that it runs fine the very next day, makes me think it's got plenty of power to move the auger both in and out. So why does it chose to not retract late in the day, but early in the day, all is well.
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