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sdmuleman

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About sdmuleman

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  • Birthday 07/16/1983

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    Seabeck WA

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  1. So I've got 2 TD-14 carcasses to clean up. What parts are irreplaceable/worth saving or selling? 1st one is mostly complete (no sheet metal/radiator but pretty much everything else) but sat for something like 40 years in the mud and is more or less solid rust. 2nd has the engine in parts, no tracks or one final and is basically the trans casting with parts on it. The rusty one has a decent u/c I was planning to keep for my other good TD-14. Figured keep both engines/parts and the finals since I've heard they are known failure points. What about the trans/bevel gear/housing/etc? Most of this stuff is rusty enough to probably be questionably useful, but I really hate scraping parts that might be useful. On the flip side, I'm moving in a year or so and need to get stuff cleaned up. The pivot shafts also look like they'd be useful for chunks of big round stock but again I hate to start cutting the trans casting up getting them out. Thanks.
  2. I've got a 340 loader w/ 4 in 1 and it's been useful. Small enough to be easy to move around & maneuverable but still enough heft to lift pretty good loads. The ripper and scraper/dozer/clamshell functions have been good though I've had less luck using it as a loader - the bucket is tall enough I have a hard time getting it really full of dirt and you're not going anywhere fast. Mine also doesn't have much traction - both due to the triple bar grousers and having slippery steering clutches. I think the steering clutch issue on mine is just from mine being cranky, it's not systematic if you have them adjusted right. Honestly what I've used it for most is lifting/moving stuff. It would lift more than my small backhoe (3500 ford) and while the bigger backhoe (4500 ford) I now have now is supposed to lift more it's hard to steer and has traction issues in the mud where the crawler handles that kind of weight much better.
  3. Yes, but then it leads to a different kind of regret.... never being able to find anything and living in the doghouse.
  4. It would be helpful to post your location, what prices you're expecting to get, and more pictures of the sprockets and chain links.
  5. Post a picture of your valve. It probably has a power beyond port which is capped and would be the best place to tap off the new valve.
  6. On my 340 I was able to take the old one down to the local hydraulic shop and they matched them. IIRC the chevron packing for the pistons was a different thickness so it either took one more or one less packing than original and I had to modify the rod wiper seal slightly IIRC but it was fairly easy. I found a Drott parts manual for mine that had the sizes and types of packing listed which also helped some - I'd bet if you can find a similiar one for 175 it would have the same info. Like this, though this one is pricey... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drott-175K3-Skid-Shovel-on-IH-175-Crawler-Parts-Catalog-Owner-Operator-Manual-/252896420737
  7. Thanks. How much do you want for the PTO? Do you happen to have a 3 point hitch on it as well?
  8. Those are the brakes, the steering clutch brakes I was talking about are inside the transmission/rear axle case. Thanks.
  9. Thanks Tom. Do you have part numbers for the other transmission bearings handy?
  10. Next question - how hard are the bearing to get? I'm hoping their fairly standard size bearings and I can just match dimensions but can anyone confirm this? Assuming they're reasonably cheap I'm thinking I'll do all the trans bearings while I'm in there just to have it done.
  11. You're asking if the small amount of ATF will cause a problem if it's in the oil? Short answer, no. Even that small of an amount of acetone or diesel wouldn't really matter IMHO. It'll dilute the oil a bit, but shouldn't matter in the grand scheme of things especially with a lower rpm lower powered heavy duty old diesel like these. That being said, if the engine is stuck I'd expect the oil needs to be changed anyway, so I'm unclear why you're asking the question.....
  12. That's about the conclusion I've come too. Going to be a pain, but possible. Pull the clutch assembly, then pull the front cover forward and maybe out the top hole then I should be able to get to everything. I've got 2 parts tractors I can play on and get replacement parts from. Might even have good bearings, though I'll probably try to get new. Clutch brake looks shot on this tractor too, but at least one of the parts rigs is decent so I'll probably grab that one. May go new on that too, have to see. Looks like I got lucky and none of the hard parts got torn up running it. Tough old machines.
  13. Can you get the upper trans shaft (spline shaft in IH book) out without pulling the engine? My tractor has had a lot of gear noise since I got it last spring and the other day I happened to try shifting it into high (previously only used 1st & R) only to find it wouldn't go back into low. I had a slim hope it was just a shifter issue but upon pulling the shifter cover I found the hi/low sliding gear flopping around and the spline shaft about 4" aft of where it's supposed to be. As best I can figure, the rear spline shaft bearing wore to the point that the balls fell out allowing the entire shaft to shift back. The gears, shaft, driving gear and front bearing seem to be in okay shape from the limited inspection I could do. Problem is how to get a new rear bearing in. From looking at the manual it looks like you have to pull the front cover forward to get the driving gear assembly out before being able to get the spline shaft out, and that requires pulling the engine. Anyone ever tried a different way? This is around the ranch lightly used crawler - I just use it to push dirt around here and there, nothing too crazy. TD-14A TDF-31159.
  14. By pivot brakes do you mean the steering 'clutch; brakes are are disc type? If so I may be interested depending on price. ~John
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