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Everything posted by DOCTOR EVIL


    Farmall M Seat Pan

    Not sure how long IH used the original seat you had with the bump in the front, on the 1939 model M's and H's. I'd try mounting your new seat with only the 2 bolts. If that doesn't work use a 3/8 inch plate drilled to match the 4 bolts on your seat with two holes drilled to match your seat base. Those old seats were not comfortable at all. I did that with a 1/4 inch plate to mount a Tombstone seat onto my batterybox seat base on my Super H. Been on there 13 years like that. Think there's seven bolts in the seat, four in the seat base.

    Just bought this old girl and looking for info

    Mr. Goodwrench, head of the repair shop for the company I drove for was the first to tell me that. His prior job was Service Shop Manager for Riverside IH truck dealer in Davenport, Iowa. He sure would have known!

    MTO, Dont do this by accident.

    Yeah, maybe. But my truck was built in Warren, Michigan, by a UAW workforce making a livable wage with decent benefits. Mother Fiat is spending BILLIONS of Dollars bringing new work to the plant, the 2500 & 3500 series trucks being built in Satillio, Mexico until 2020 then move to a new part of the plant in Warren bringing many more jobs to the plant. New model Jeeps will be built there by then too. More workers needed Here! Not in China where GM spent all that bailout money Obama gave them. Guess maybe Mexico should have paid for the wall afterall. Last GM car I bought started falling apart on the test drive almost 20 years ago. Car depreciated so much I would have been better off renting the thing from Avis! I really like my new Ram. Getting about 16 mpg on local stop & go short trip driving. Not bad for a 400 hp HEMI. Turned over 900 miles yesterday, about 6 months after I took delivery. I had WAY over 9000 miles on my F-250 when it was 6 months old, more like 12,000 miles. Far as cost per mile, that 22 yr old Ford was WAY cheaper to run than any other similar sized vehicle, averaged over 20 mpg one summer, over 3 months and 10,000 miles. Son doesn't drive it every day, but this winter it will be his daily driver. His goal is to keep it on the road to 400,000 miles, which will probably take 22 more years! Anyhow, I don't see any problems with what FCA is doing. No problem where the decisions are made, and no problem with the decisions at all!

    Series 88 4wd sitting in the weed patch rottin away

    Machinery Pete just featured that tractor a week ago, serial number 501, $151,000. The original buyer of the tractor when new was from Prophetstown, Illinois, he called the auctioneer, and the auctioneer called him during the selling of that tractor, held his cell phone to the mic while the guy told the early history of the tractor, Auctioneer filled in the gaps and then the seller completed the history. This tractor sold for more than the 7388 & 7788.

    MTO, Dont do this by accident.

    I sure hope my new Ram 1500 lasts 17 years. At the rate I'm running up the miles it will have about 100,000 on it by then.

    MTO, Dont do this by accident.

    Guy on another website I don't go to anymore was bragging about how great it was his Toyota dealer was replacing the frame because of rust on his 9-10 year old Toyota. He couldn't comprehend the fact that My F-250 was about 18 years old and survived 18 Wisconsin winters and had very little rust except on the leaf springs and drive shafts that didn't get the Auto-Armor treatment. But other guys convinced him to do what all hard working American Men would do, Trade his old rusty Toyota in on a brand new Toyota! Two guys, impact tools, an assortment of clips and clamps, and all the old rusty brake lines, emergency brake cables, fuel lines and about 30-32 total hours of labor, 15-16 hrs per guy and he had his new free frame. The were well practiced, lots of experience.

    Using the TA Question

    I'm not sure this accomplishes anything, the over-running clutch, or sprag that keeps the take-up of power or driving force nice and smooth, no break in power. I watched the neighbor shift the Power Director in his D-19 when plowing and he came to a dead stop when going thru neutral. Then hitting low or high was a Real shock to the drivetrain. I pulled the TA on just about every job on headlands, I'd pull the engine down to 1000-1100 rpm on hills and pull the TA, engine rpm would go right to about 1400 on the SM-TA & 450. Then if I was close to top of hill and tach was showing 1450 I shoved the TA ahead. When cultivating first time I was already in 2nd gear most times, plenty slow to turn in high side of 2nd. Laying by in 3rd I'd pull TA on headlands. Dad had the TA go out, sure it was the sprag, on the SM-TA second year he had it, long before I did fieldwork. Mechanic had a long discussion with Dad about the importance of adjusting the clutch & TA "By the Book" Never any more problems with SM-TA or 450 when he got it. Both tractors were 6-7 years old, linkage wear was negligable compared to those tractors today being 61 and 64 yrs old. Taking off for the other farm I'd start out in low 5th, let TA ahead around 800-1000 rpm then wide open. Not hard to run a TA, just try to not cause the over-running clutch or sprag to coast and not lock up. Never ran an IH new enough to have the hyd shifted TA. But I suspect it would have been the same way. Dad was actually looking for a TA delete 706 or 806 with an M&W turbo winter of '68/'69. THAT would have been nice making 5 rounds while the neighbor made 4 rounds with his shiny new 4020.

    What Live Hydraulic Pump is on my H???

    Damn, that's what I get for not checking my books before I post! 19233 last stage 1, 19234 first stage 2. I wonder What model had something changed at 19226 to 19227?

    C-7 cat engine

    SON found a program for his smart phone to diagnose the 7.3L PSD in my old '96 F-250. Ran the contribution test, BUZZ test, injection psi test, over 300,000 miles and it passed with flying colors. The tube that runs from right side exhaust manifold to the sensor by the high pressure oil pump that controls the flapper valve in turbo mount, was COMPLETELY plugged, sensor plugged, new sensor, tube, couple pipe fittings and the flapper works properly now. Something I never read on The DieselStop was the plugged pipe caused the engine to defuel, pulled fuel out, lost hp. Truck went from about 150-160 hp back to 210-215 like when it was new. Should pick up some mpg too. Thing that most impresses SON is the fact there's so many safe guards to keep a HEUI engine from hurting itself. Only problem is injectors are terribly expensive, and a '96 PSD has the smallest injectors, not good for making BIG hp, so both injectors and new turbo impeller needed to make much of an increase in HP.

    Picking corn like in the 40's

    Dad bought a Wood Brothers 1 row pull picker to pick ear corn before he put the 2M-E picker on the M. About twice a week we'd pick a couple rows, half a load, with husks on and stretch how long the ground feed would last. We'd chop the whole stalk off the endrows and feed them to the hogs. I never quite knew why we took both the M and Super H, M on the picker, Super H pulling the wagon till we hooked it to the picker, then used the SH to dump the corn in the hog pasture. The M still had the loader on it, the only remotes used for the loader. The SH could have done it all. The picker was just a snapper, no husking bed. I never picked more than a few ears of corn by hand. Dad got a new picking "Hook" just before he went in the Army, when he got out everybody had a picker, think I have it with some of his stuff.

    What Live Hydraulic Pump is on my H???

    Stage 1 serial # 19226 and under, Stage 2 19227 and above.

    Good place to put ads for parts?

    ATHS has a Parts and Services topic. Most comments are "Wanted to buy" but a few For Sale ads. There's a guy looking for '79 TranStar II parts right now.

    International 350 Utility

    The 350 Farmall engine was governed to 1750 rpm, the Utility was governed to 2000 rpm, the final drive gearing is different so they both go about the same mph in the same gears, larger tires on the utility will increase speed reducing torque. About the only utility tractor being pulled I know of is Esden Lehn's 460 Super Stock diesel.
  14. 4020-D were rebuilt around 5000-6000 hours around home back in the day, oil bath or dry pleated paper made no difference. Your Dad's Super M have an hour meter? My favorite IH parts man had a used distributor drive housing off a 300/350 and I put a tach/hour meter on my Super H May of 1969. We put 250 hours a year on it, 1000 hours by 1972 when Dad quit farming, and about 1000 more since then. 80,000 miles with oil bath air cleaner in a truck is low miles, pleated paper filter would have got twice that.Oil bath kept the BIG chunks out, but the little dust particles just ground the life right out of engines. I remember harrowing in oats one spring, nice south breeze, I'm going north & south with the Super H. Going south no problem, going north the same speed as the breeze I couldn't see past the muffler of the Super H, about 5 feet ahead of me, could barely see the air intake it was so dusty, I had to stand up to see over the dust. Top of hood, grill, & gas tank was brown with dust when I turned to head south. Bet if I'd have run an oil analysis it would have been off the charts high in silicon.

    Commercials used to be fun, what happened ?

    I had not seen that commercial! I like the one where two old cowboys watching the horses play football. One team scores a touchdown, then kicks the point after. One cowboy says, "You sure don't see that very often." Other cowboy says, "Yeah, They normally go for two!" The Budwieser hitch visits our little town about once a year, local construction company owner lets them stay at his stables. Saw them deliver a case of beer last spring early, 2017, 3 shiney red Navistar semi's pull into grocery store parking lot, wagon and 2 horses in one trailer, 4 horses each in the other two. Guys polish all the chrome and brass, even brush the Dalmation Dog that rides on the wagon. Took about 2 hours to hitch wagon up and polish everything. Family that won the case of beer won a contest during the Super Bowl I think, 12 cases given away nation wide. I've seen them several other times, at horse shows, Ill State Fair Grounds.

    sideraking tonight

    Same question here too. We always raked late morning so I was done raking by Noon, had a quick sandwich cause neighbor would show up with baler at 12:30 and we had to get normally 1000 bales in time to play a Little League or Connie Mack ball game in evening.

    International 350 Utility

    The BIG difference between the C169 engine in a 300 or C175 in a 350 and a C248 or C264 in an M is the absence of torque in the C169/175. Smaller bore, shorter stroke, all the cards are staked against them. You might want to look at something like a Minny Jet Star. Last NTPA pull I went to a guy had an IH 501 cid 6 cyl. truck engine in his 460 Farmall, a 4 cylinder Minny, can't remember the model, beat him, but the Minny had more displacement by 35-40 cid, maybe more.

    What Live Hydraulic Pump is on my H???

    Not an M&W pump, they were cast iron. Looks EXACTLY like the pump on my Stage 2 Super H.
  19. I'd trash can the oil bath cleaner, I won't even call it a filter. The dry pleated paper filters cost a little money but how much are you paying for oil for the oil bath? I've NEVER heard any one state that fact, people always act like it's free. The dry pleated paper filters get 99.5+% of the dirt, more like 99.9%. Most of the longer life of engines today is because of better air filtering, rest is better oil filtering. I've checked Donaldson's website for cleaning efficency of their oil bath air cleaners and they don't publish that info. I run oil analysis on my 7.3L PSD, when it had a K&N oiled cotton gauze filter silicon ran 2&3 PPM, with the OEM dry pleated paper element it ran 0&1. I cleaned the K&N once, saw thousands of tiny points of light looking thru the cotton gauze, ran right to town and got a new pleated paper filter, and the silicon went back to 0&1. The mesh in an oil bath is large enough that handfuls of dry sand would fall right thru the mesh if it wasn't for the oil. Eventually the oil gets dried up with dust, also plugs up the filter. With a dry pleated paper filter they actually filter BETTER after they start getting dust in them. Only problem with most pleated paper filters is they don't make them big enough. And TWO stage dry filters are Great! Even my new Cub Cadet Tank mower has a 2-stage on the 27 hp Kawasaki. Wish I could find a replacement dry type air filter to fit on my Super H & M. Look at the size of filters used on construction equipment. Are oil bath cleaners even used on new equipment? Last I knew 10 yrs ago Vortox oil bath cleaners were an option on some semi trucks.

    Best place/brand of plug wires for 560?

    I use ACCEL solid copper wires, yellow high temp silicon jackets, red high temp boots, and solder the terminal ends to the copper conductors. Local speed chop or Summit or Jegs has them. Get the universal V-8 set. Back 40+ years ago I had a similar set of plug wires to the Accel wires except the yellow silicon rubber was solid right down to the copper conductor, and they were cheaper than Accel. wires, same copper ends for plugs and distributor caps or HEI caps. I had them on my '70 Nova when I traded for my new '77 Firebird. Had a good radio and speakers in it too. I didn't know the kid who bought it but heard he wrapped it around a telephone pole.

    Good old 10% horsepower increase

    George -Farmall only had ONE Fellows gear shaper, I forget what gear they made with it, had a BIG splined bore, maybe pto gear? The one department I was production scheduler of was only Gear Shavers, mostly Red Ring brand, was a few of another brand but name excapes me. Just about Every other gear was shaved. My dept. fed heat-treat, then gears went to final finishing, bearing mounting OD's and ID's were ground concentric and to size. We made tiny pump gears, speed/range gears, pto gears. Bull gears and pinions were made in totally different dept's. About 95% of gears were carburized, hard on the outside, soft on the inside. PTO gears I think it was were induction hardened, little pump gears too IIRC. There was an entire department of nothing but NC Warner-Swasey lathes to turn & bore gear blanks. Next dept had a 6 station vertical Colonial broach to broach splined bores. Most times only used 2-3 stations. Wish I could remember more details, was only 41 years ago. I had a little mill I scheduled, milled keyways, slots, and put the square notches in the "Little TIN HATS", throttle quadrants for H/M and Supers. Boss tried to explain to me what they were, I politely told him I knew exactly what they were, we always met our quota to Broadview Parts when I was there.

    Cattech- what engine is this?

    Those built at the Laffeyette plant? My Son worked at Kirby-Riss one summer making CAT wire harnesses, lots of stationary power plant engines built there. Seeing how the big mining trucks are the size of a BIG house a stationary engine probably fits. Most common quantity of harnesses delivered to CAT, who's back door was less than 100 feet from Kirby-Riss was ONE. K-R would get the order, 2-3 hours later deliver the harness. I delivered a load of steel blasting shot to Cat's foundry in Morton, Ill. They had some engine blocks bigger than my entire semi-tractor sitting around that place. The steel foundry I worked for a division of, CAT was their largest customer. Made a bunch of big parts for them because they could be easily welded, like hyd. cylinder ends, shock absorbers for the big off road mining trucks, saw the exact same parts being made at open die forging shops like Scot Forge in Spring Grove, Ill. too. A lot of machine shops I did business with, CAT was their biggest customer. Several of those machine shops were trying to find a more steady customer than the companys I worked for and CAT. Machine shop closest to my house makes ALL the hyd spool valve spools for CAT, laser etches the CAT logo and part number on them, ships direct to parts depots or dealers in CAT boxes. Been many many years since they had a defective part. 100% perfect parts every year, zero customer complaints.

    450 Farmall rear end patch

    Co-worker that sat next to me created a rather nice assorted tractor collection, C, H & M, 44 Special Massey, an Oliver, couple Deere's, had a GP he restored Really nice, many many many Dollars spent on it, everything but an Allis-Chalmers, he really needed a WD or B or G. Anyhow, started his M up to back out of shed one well below zero day and ice broke a chunk out under the bull gear and the 14 gallons of 90 weight started it's slow flow towards the door of the shed, moved slowly like the lava in Hawaii. Yes, the water in rearend formed around bull gear teeth and pushed bottom out of tub, I never saw it so can't say that it happened in EXACTLY that spot, but where else would it happen but Under the bull gear. Another cause, lock washer on capscrew holding bull gear on axle breaks, large flatwasher falls off when capscrew loosens, large flat washer pushes hole in tub. And loose stray balls from ball bearings. Someone posted a pic here years ago of a Super M-TA with bad axle bearings that the axle wore the end cap almost out, bearing balls gone, inner race wore well into outer race. Still no hole in tub. That is a nice looking repair. I've heard of several that were welded with various levels of success. Of the 5-6 H's and M's I've been around none have had to be repaired.

    Compact tractor

    I frequented the website "Green Tractor Talk", about 75-80% subcompact tractor owners. Was lots of complaints I thought, models 1023E, 1025R, 1026R. The prior models of that size seemed to survive novice owners better. The rearend castings are diecastings, not cast iron, not even a good place to bolt on a drawbar!, some grease zerks were almost impossible to service. Some guys had good luck but they were in the minority. I looked at the comparable C/IH model at my local dealer and it was a REAL tractor, cast iron castings, better serviceability. I forget who made Cub Cadet's compacts, maybe Yanmar? Depending on what your usage would be, I'd look for a small 74, or 84 series utility tractor, live pto, live hyd, power steering, a real tractor.

    Good old 10% horsepower increase

    That would have all been done at Melrose Park, Farmall never messed with inj. pumps. I think they would have swapped engines and returned the weak one to Melrose.