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DOCTOR EVIL

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  1. I have Direct TV via a small dish. I watch a half hour of Machinery Pete on Tuesday afternoon, then an Hour of Mecum Gone Farmin Davenport, and now East Moline auction, then half hour of PPL Tractor pulling, been a Tuesday routine for 5-6 years now, "TRACTOR PULL TUESDAY".
  2. Something like a 450 gas REALLY needed an aux gas tank, not hard at all sucking the OEM 21 gal tank dry twice when plowing. Bigger tractor needed one even more.
  3. Ag Wheel Express in Mason City Iowa has the silver mist painted Deep Well 10x38 rim for $381 plus tax and freight. A local ag tire shop might be able to beat that price a bit. That's about TWICE what the price was 2 years ago. This inflation junk sucks!
  4. 7and8and1456 - Yes, the dealer took pretty good pictures, those rear axle clamps, or mounts are exactly what this loader has. The guy that traded it in wanted to put it on a 1086, but was scared off by the fabrication work, so the dealer made him a deal on a 2350. Would have been a shame to tear this 2000 up on a 1086! I've got several CIH dealers around here I can call and see if they have mounts. Those sketches in the parts book give me a pretty good idea what the front mounts should look like. And I got the part numbers too. I got a new "open box special" Cross 3-spool hyd valve this AM, one spool with float, not exactly sure how the valve will get mounted, I'd like to keep the valve under the gas tank, there's lots of hose showing in the pictures of the loader, seems to me the current 1-spool valve is hung on the bellhousing, the hoses to/from the M&W live pump to the new 3-spool valve will need to be longer. Mounting back within reach sitting in the seat would be nice. I've run a lot of loaders with hyd buckets, run the two loaders I have now with trip buckets a whole lot too, some things are just better with a hyd bucket. I remember loading dirt into my Pronovost dump trailer, had the tailgate down and set a 4x4 2 ft long on the floor, the bucket on the SH just fit between the sides of the cart, but later buckets of dirt the bucket rested on the dirt. With a hyd bucket it would have been simple, quick & easy. Anyhow, Thank-you all for the info and pictures. Really helps. Will probably be spring before the loader gets mounted, and I'll have to post pictures.
  5. YEP, Larry Loujack was the driving force behind me wanting the BIG tractor with the AUTOMATIC radio, First couple days cultivating corn or beans just crawling along at idle I had to have something to keep me awake. Jobs I did with my H or SH only took 3-4 hours tops, I could tolerate the local Quad-City, Moline, Ill/Davenport, Iowa stations on it. I'm sitting in my semi-tractor at Hy-Vee Foods warehouse in Chariton, Iowa catching up my log book and I look up at the semi backing up right in front of me, Large Car, and down on the lower edge of the sleeper bunk is a sticker, "Official Larry Lujack Dumb Animal Story Mobile Unit", and yes, I turned on my AM/FM radio and searched for AM 890 on my dial. I almost had to be right IN Chicago to get anything, I ran cassette tapes once in a while. I "Think" that radio is the one I have on my #72 Cub Cadet, works O-K on there. SON has built some really impressive stereo systems, one in the '88 Mustang GT hatchback would rattle the aluminum siding on the house 80-90 feet away with the car in the shop with all the doors & windows closed. By the numbers, the system he put in his Lightning was bigger/louder, more watts, but didn't rattle the siding like the Mustang did. Mustang had a 12" Solobaric woofer in a custom made encloser in the spare tire well, think the Lightning had a 12" MTX speaker. I never had the ambition or the cash to build a stereo like that. When I gave my old F-250 to SON, he asked me, "How long has the radio not worked in it?" Far as I knew it worked, last time I turned the volumn up 3-4 years before. Now if I was out fall plowing, or mowing/raking hay, I'd have the radio on. Last fieldwork I did for Dad was discing the back 20 acres with the 4010 ahead of the corn planter, and for darn sure the Automatic tractor radio on the fender was blaring. That just the way "Things" were done.
  6. Not much difference between the 2MH and 2ME we mounted on the '51 M 20-some years. The outside face of the cast wheel will need to be flush with the chamfer on the end of the axle bar, if not flush with the outside face of the axle bar. I'd search out a couple Half Century videos and watch them, any Farmall M, most will have 2M-H pickers on them. Pause the video and take a close look with a magnefying glass. Larger rear tires are tougher to squeeze into a corn row with a picker, a 12-38 or 13.6x38 tire is as small as I would go, a 12.4x38 or 11-38 would probably be over-loaded. A 14.9x38 or 13-38 would work good. The sizes with no decimal point and only two numbers ahead of the dash are the pre-1954 rear tire sizes, the sizes with the X and a decimal, like .4 or .6 are post 1954 sizes. I never got to run the corn picker, Dad pulled rank on me and ran it all the time. But by the time I was 13-14 years old I was hauling in and unloading, it was easy by then all the wagons had hoists, back into the crib, raise the wagon, start the inside elevator, unload corn, head back out to the field for another load, and repeat. Dad and I working together got more loads in one day than Dad and Grandpa got in TWO days. When we got the BIG Electric Wheel wagon Dad could pick half the morning just filling it once, it held roughly 2 acres.
  7. O-K all you GUYS! This is all your fault! I just bought an IH 2000 loader without ANY brackets. But by the looks of Forwhldrv's pictures, the rear axle mounts from the Stan-Hoist loader on the M, the ONLY part that hasn't been welded on, will either work or be made too work. The curved square tubing arms running back on this 2000 loader are longer than ANY I've ever seen. Easy enough making them short. Like forwhldrv's pictures, they look like they would extend back behind the horseshoe drawbar. This loader has a big "U-bolt" that pivots up and back and tightens under the square tube holding the back of the loader secure. I know there were parts book pictures of how the front framework mounts to the frame and front bolster posted here too. I haven't found them yet, but I will. I'll have a better idea what I need when I get the loader next week. I do remember the front mounts changed a lot between tractor models, if anybody has an unused set of frt M mounts I'd be interested in them. I would hope IH kept the loader frame up front the same. I need to replumb the M to a two valve remote valve, the tractor has never had a hyd bucket on the loader. There's some things it's just easier with a hyd bucket. I might go ahead and put a 3-spool valve on. Having the rear remotes working could be nice down the road. I would like to do that same change on the SH, but those 3 spool valves are pricy!
  8. I got a TENNA radio for my 14th B-day, my B-day is in the spring, just in time to use it sowing oats, moving hog houses and other hog equipment. Doing fieldwork meant running the 450 with Dad's Automatic big box radio, the "Standard" by which all radios will be measured. Those tractor radios you hear from a mile away even over the tractor noise, about a 99% chance they were an Automatic. I had a Tractor Supply radio, was a small formed steel box with a Motorola truck radio, a mounting bracket, antenna, and We had robbed a bigger speaker out of a radio or TV and it and the radio really wasn't getting the job done. The Tenna proved to be slightly better but not even close to the Automatic. Dad listened to the small local station from 10 miles away to get the noon farm market reports. I really wanted WLS radio from CHICAGO, and the Automatic could pull it in. Best my Tenna could do was get KSTT, a local, Davenport, Iowa rock station as long as I wasn't too close to power lines, and seemed that running east & west worked better than north & south. But of the 250 hours I put on the SH every year that Tenna was on at least 249 of them. About 10 years ago I found a new SONY car radio head unit with an amplifier and two co-axial speakers on sale and stripped the guts out of the Tenna and installed the Sony. It's electronic tuning is much better, or maybe there's more local stations around here now than was around home in 1970. Max Armstrong interviewed a guy at HCOP a couple years ago that created a mobile display of ALL brands of tractor radios available over the years. The various colors to match tractor brands, the AM, and AM/FM, and the early 8-track and cassette tape models. I did eventually buy a cassette tape deck for my home stereo, but never interested in one on my tractor, one morning cultivating corn think it was WLS played the Association song "Windy" 10 or 12 times, WHY would I want a tape deck? If I liked a song it would be played again in half an hour. As addicted to tractor radios as I was, the BTO I worked for NEVER had a radio in ANYTHING, don't think his combine had one till he traded his #95 Deere for a 6600. The 4230 with turbo He bought about 1974 with sound-gard cab was his first tractor with radio. His 2470 CASE had one too, was probably my favorite tractor to run. It rode on 28Lx26 tires, rode like a Cadillac.
  9. The 38" timed deck did a nice job of mowing, problem was that little short belt had to drive both the right and left spindle, and in tall grass that was about ALL the 7 hp Kohler and that little belt both wanted! IH recommended not putting the timed deck on a Cub Cadet 100, mostly because of that little belt. Problem I had that caused Dad to trade our Original for the 70 was hitting something with a blade and snapping the cogged timing belt than was $22 in 1965 Dollars. The Original was repainted by Bob Rishel Implement in Cambridge, Ill., 2150 red where it should have been 483 yellow, it sat under the awning in front of the showroom most of the summer and we lost track of it. FAST FORWARD to about 2003 or 2004, Dad's playing cards with a group of retiree's, and talk changes to what they were doing that afternoon, Dad mowing his acreage, and this old high school friend of his said he was mowing too, but his old Cub Cadet and his city lot didn't take very long. Turns out He bought our original off Rishel's that summer of 1965, and 38 years later it's still mowing every week. I always thought the M&W 9-speed for the Originals was a great thing. Think it was summer of '63 the neighbor who owned the 80 acres Dad and the neighbor farmed together rented the Original to mow his house yard and barnyard. That Overdrive would have really speeded up that half mile trip between farms. In '65 He rented the #70, and every three years, me mowing our farmstead and neighbor mowing his, the 7 hp Kohler in that 70 needed to be overhauled, then replaced with a K181. It has a fresh overhauled K241 in it now, same engine that was in my 72 at all the plow days I went to years ago. I've got a picture of "The FLEET", from late spring 1968, Farmall 450 with duals, '51 M with duals, '54 Super H, Cub Cadet 70. Three of those 4 live in my shop now, and I'm not really looking for a 450. The corn is all planted, tractors all washed & waxed, cultivator sitting outside the machine shed ready to put on the 450. But I would like a nice SM-TA.
  10. I'm like Gearheadmb, I use Gunk Foaming engine cleaner in a big spray can, works better if you can warm the dirty areas up a little, even if it's just sitting in direct sunlight a while. I just wash it off with a garden hose and hose nozzel. I really hate to take a 2500-3000+ psi pressure washer to an old tractor, engine, or anything with an enclosed oil lubricated gearbox. Same thing with sand blasting, Dad hired the 450 sand blasted and repainted. Only needed 2 trips back to town to fix hydraulics, they blew the little breather cap on top of the hyd reservoir OFF, it was just laying there! And you had to get closer like about 5 feet away to see all the sand and dust they painted over, it was 2150 red and that's about all I'll say, and believe it or not, it wasn't the worst paint job I've seen on one of our tractors! I never waxed the 450, that sand would rip up the applicator pad and towel I used to buff the wax off. I've prepped a couple tractors for repaint at a car wash. First was the JD B, it was rust brown when we bought it, after I wire cup brushed the sheetmetal it was actually more green than when we bought it. The whole engine & transmission was covered with a half inch thick 32 year old layer of dust and 90 weight gear oil. Most of that came off with a putty knife or screw driver and finally with a coffee can half full of kerosene mixed with GUNK degreaser. All the sheet metal did was cover up the grease, oil, and dirt, plus Deere letter series sheet metal is a PITA to remove. Oh, and I PULLED the B the 8 miles to the car wash, took 30 minutes with the SH, NOT 2 hours like driving it would have. Dad had planned on repainting the R but he sold it too soon, so we had paint & decals for the B. It looked pretty good when I got done. My other repaint was a 129 Cub Cadet, and those hydro's DREWEL really bad.
  11. I saw just an hour ago a guy on the IH topic on Yesterday's Tractors looking for an IH 234 picker with mounts for a
  12. I agree with Mountain Heritage, That Original is in REAL nice shape, the paint still has some shine, the hood emblem is still there and in great shape. And no welds on the seat, doesn't even appear to be cracked yet. No timed 38 inch deck on it, but that's both a good and a bad thing.
  13. The youngest son of one of the busier concrete construction companies we hauled a lot of concrete to bought the old farm house across the road. He jacked the house up tore the old foundation out, formed all new walls and poured them. Worked pretty good, but glad it was HIM working under that house and NOT me. When he was ready he had the WRONG ready-mix company bring the concrete for the new floor, their trucks all had super singles front & rear, and no AWD's. The first truck was able to drive away, second truck parked in a mudhole and was stuck once he was empty. One of the concrete crew had a REALLY nice '78 or '79 Bronco, BIG Monster Mudder tires, not sure what exactly for an engine but it was Big and wasn't stock, they found enough chains to get the Bronco out on the newly poured concrete street, and somehow that Bronco had enough Snort to spin ALL 4 tires and managed to pull the empty mixer onto solid ground. I really expected the transmission, or a driveshaft, at the very least a U-joint getting spit out in pieces. But YES, putting a new foundation under an existing house isn't as easy as doing it without a house in the way, but it can be done.
  14. The mower deck is about right. EVERYTHING else is too white. I think Dad's last Cub was a 154, he took the "live" pto clutch out and took it in to the dealer to rebuild, not sure why, was a $400 bill. That was 2006, parts, if you could get them have probably doubled since then.
  15. #502 was diesel, but I forget who owns it.
  16. 66 series a little before my time at FARMALL, NY Bill's info is better than anything I had or have. A LOT of big tractors got 34" rear rubber. The 4320 I broke-in one night came on 18.4x34 Firestones. He had the 4320 and FIVE 4020's and later a 4230, all on 18.4x34's. You would have thought he had duals that size.
  17. RFD-TV has a half hour of Machinery Pete I watch every Tuesday afternoon at 4 pm, then an hour of Mecum Gone Farming broadcast from the Quad-Cities at 4:30 then a half hour of NTPA tractor or truck pulling. It's channel 345 on my Direct TV.
  18. I'd take a single cylinder Kohler over an Onan any day, they're just a robust no nonsense engine, mostly all cast iron, afterall, Kohler's main business was making cast iron bathtubs and sinks. There was three iron foundries in the Sheboygan area, I've dealt with all three and they all do great work. What was diecast aluminum was built beefy enough to not be problems. The Onan B48G IH used in 982's just did STUPID things in the design that effected drastically in the way they performed. Things like, Gee, lets put the ignition points & condensor up top and fully towards the pto end and INSIDE of the engine in a place with NO VENTILATION SO oil vapor can accumulate on the contact points. I've taken points out of my Onan that looked like I fished them out of a bucket or used 90W gear oil. The 982 was longer, all between the seat and steering wheel, hoods on 982 & 782 were interchangeable. The Onan should fit in a 782, I've never tried it, but should fit. MTD fixed all kinds of things that were known problems on early Cub Cadets. And unfortunately added all kinds of electrical stuff that was required by law. My 2015 Cub Cadet zero turn has a combination tach/hour meter on it, great little thing, hour meter works great, use it for oil & filter changes, the tach stopped working before I was done mowing the lawn the first time. But the starter, switch to engage the deck, all work great. Those are what matters. There's a place for a light switch, but since it only takes 2-1/2 to 3 hours to mow, not 4 to 6 hours, I never need to mow after dark.
  19. The list of gasoline engines I've put tank type block heaters on is extremely long. Since about 2015, maybe earlier, Ford has put a block heater on EVERY car & truck ordered by every dealer across the northern tiers of states in the USA, I suspect everything in Canada has one too. About danged time in my opinion! I've grown way too used to having instant heat and defrosters as soon as the engine springs to life on my cars, trucks, & tractors. Not everything has electric seat heaters and steering wheels like my new RAM 1500 pickup. I do wish it had a block heater! It does have electronically controlled shutters ahead of the radiator to help the engine warm up quicker and stay warm from that blast of freezing cold air once you get once out on the road, just like diesel trucks of the 1950's & 1960's. Cars and trucks I had back as recently as in the late 1970's did NOT adapt to cruising well at 70 mph into below zero temps. No shutters on either of my 1950 vintage FARMALLS, but a heavy paper feed sack and a tarp strap does nicely at warming them up and keeping them warm. I have 12 volt electric glove liners and socks to keep my hands and feet warm when clearing snow for extended lengths of time. But they only help so much like the night after work I'm clearing the driveway and it starts SLEETING.
  20. I watched a show yesterday on satallite tv about the development of a battery powered Dakar race car. Special everything, think they said the battery pack weighs 460#, typical lithium-ion like new power tools use only bigger, special frame, special lightweight tires, all to extend run time. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the gas engine powered cars here in 2 weeks! There was a "Formula E class" car race series, used cars similar to Formula 1 except Lithium Ion battery powered. They ran that class a couple years, yes the Formula E was slower than F-1, more like a Formula 3. Back when SON raced Radio Controlled cars & trucks, the battery powered cars/trucks were actually faster than the gas powered versions. I think it was because the battery powered cars/trucks had a more linear power application, didn't break traction near as much.
  21. All three of the Deere's Dad had were hard to start. I never tried that sawing the wheel back and forth on the 4010. Once the corn & beans were cultivated it didn't get used any till spring unless we fall plowed. And You needed 4 arms/hands to start the '40 B, two to spin the flywheel, one to adjust the choke and the fourth to adjust the throttle. And if it felt like not starting, your two extra arms could spell your other two. The R was the hardest to start, the tiny 2 cylinder pony was gutless compared to the V-4 Deere used on every other 2 cylinder diesel. I swear Deere didn't do ANY pre-production testing on the R at all. Too small of pony, terribly weak pto drivetrain, Yes, it was Deere's first "Live pto" but if the drive train for the pto is shelled-out like the Township road commissioner that bought Our R had happen every year for three straight years, I'd say it really wasn't very "live", more like "DOA". And the crankshaft really needed the center main bearing that Deere put in every other 2 cyl diesel. I think Deere tried to push a restyled D off as a diesel! A Deere cold weather starting aid REALLY is a FARMALL M and a stout log chain. We tried using the Super H a couple times but if it wasn't warmed up good it really struggled pull starting the 4010 or R. Most times we'd use the SH to pull the B out of the way to do whatever needed done.
  22. Look up VERSATRAN, they typically make larger car/truck rollback beds up to 30 ft long and 20 ton capacity but will make 8 ft pickup beds too, located in Watertown, Wis. phone 920-262-1800.
  23. The UPS terminal I drove out of had two old IH Metro package cars. in-line 6 & 4-speed. And the one I normally ran on my short half-day route when I first started driving had over a Million miles on it. The driver training school I went to for two days up in Chicago, the two trainers that taught the class said we'd all drive "normal" package cars, but out west, like on Indian reservations, with mostly dirt trails, they would buy 4wd package cars very similar to this Metro. The trainers said the centers would hire indians familiar with the reservation and knew how to get around.
  24. Kraig brought his Allis to a plow day one year. Can't remember if it was at Mr. PLOW and Big Steve's or one hosted by Travis Schwitser out around Charles City, Iowa. I think Kraig wanted to get action videos. Those big Allis's had all cast iron rearends and drop gearboxes on the ends of the axles so loads of ground clearance. The Cub Cadets were really low to the ground unless you had bigger rear tires, they would drag trash and pile it up under the rearend, then spin-out. 30 years ago when I lived in rural Freeport, Illinois, had a guy that lived south of Pearl City, Ill I used to drive by his farm frequently all winter. He milked a few cows year round. In winter he did ALL his chores with Cub Cadets and home-made carry-all's. Put a pair of chains on and 4-5 five gallon buckets of cattle feed or cans of milk it's amazing how much snow you can go through.
  25. Think it was Brinley that first made those for Cub Cadets, I made a rear carry-all to go on the Cat 0 3-point on my 982. Flat floor and a front wall or bulkhead and removable stake sides and rear stake panel to pile in stuff like firewood, etc. Was 45 inches wide by 16 inches long by 16 inches high. I added a rear hitch to it so I could pull my small cart behind it, carry my pruning loppers, chain saw, etc in the carry-all to prune stuff. But a big tractor with a loader does that work now. I painted it all up, steel was all 2150 red, wood was refridgerator white. But, I built it too nice, I hated to scuff or scratch the paint. The guy that is "Keeper of the Photos" on IH Cub Cadet.Com had an Allis Chalmers 620 with a Cat O 3-point, my Carry-All would pin right on and he burned wood, could use it for firewood, and I gave it to him. I'm half tempted to start another burn pile that could be seen from the International Space Station, SON tossed some logs & limbs out there a couple years ago despite me asking him not to several times. Now I mow around it every week all summer. EVERYTHING else I load up in my pickup and run it the 5 miles to the town hall where they take tree prunings.
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