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  1. The tractor the guy on the other forum converted was a 560, think it was a gas engine.
  2. Wow! And it's been hanging there for 44 years!
  3. The last filter cartridges I bought, one for an M and one for an H were very expensive I thought, one was $20, other was $15+/-. IH filters from a CIH dealer, not a NAPA or Wix. I change one tractor every 30-40 hours, about every 4 years, other tractor every 20 hours, once every ten years, I can afford that. Read a topic on another forum that said the spin-on filter used with the adapter, can't remember the brand, lowered the indicated oil pressure seen on the gauge. More filter media, less restriction to the oil flowing through, lower pressure built up. Plenty of oil flow to lube the engine. Be curious what the pressure was with 200 degree F oil.
  4. Much simpler method to accomplish the same result. I loaned my '78 F-150 to my brother-in-law to haul himself back to college. He drove from the Quad-Cities, Moline, to Ames Iowa, AND back with the parking/emergency brake 2-3, maybe 4 clicks on. I had just done a 4-wheel brake job on the truck. It failed the brake contribution test at the last twice a year inspection. I bet the truck only got 6-8 mpg, not the normal 14. It looked like the brakes were just about on fire on both sides of the rear axle. He's an Engineering Manager for Boeing now.
  5. Guy I worked with at Farmall sold Slick 50, supposedly plated every mating part in your engine with Teflon. Less engine friction and wear, better mpg. I put a $50 quart in my Ford 300-6 in my F-150. I had been getting 13-14 mpg. Afterwards still got 13-14 mpg. Now if your talking about treating metal to resist corrosion, yes, there are products that resist rust.
  6. Ahhhhhh. Remember when most stories about improper fueling were wives putting regular gas in the Ole Man's diesel pickup?
  7. Somebody posted a picture of one of the Aftermarket heated seats for old letter series tractors here probably 10 years ago.
  8. I had a bare spot in my yard behind my shop 3-4 years ago about 3 ft x 20-24 ft. Professional applicator blew a hose. Would have been nice if he would have told me. Now just starting to get weeds back in that spot. I could complain to the tenant that hires the applicator, or even the land owner. But that don't make the grass grow back.
  9. Dohrn and Standard Forwarding both hauling parts for Johnny Deare I bet. I checked on Willett on-line a couple years ago and they were still in business. Only news article I could find now was a Tribune article from 1991. Sad, they started with 8 wagons and 12 horses after the Civil War and grew to 450 Teamster drivers in 1979. One of the 300 largest trucking companies in the US back then.
  10. JASS1660 - You probably see a bunch of Willett trucks running around Chicago. Back in the mid-1980's when a Good day was a load of dog food to a ConRail yard and a pickup somewhere to get paid coming home the Only truck lines present in higher numbers the check-in lines than my company was UPS and Willett. Willett back then had hundreds of Louisville Fords. They seemed to shrug off the abuse of bouncing around Chicago surface streets really well. You get up north around Melrose Park and lots of orange and black Mack's run by the Milwaukee RailRoad.
  11. My cousin had factory installed "Turbo" decals on his 4020. He said they were lots cheaper than the M&W turbo kit.
  12. The deposits on the ends of the tubes on that radiator are called Solder Blooms, you read the recommendations for Restore and Restore Plus is recommended to remove solder bloom. Please do a search on FleetGard Restore and read their recommendations. May take several gallons on a large cooling system. My old F250 was suffering from over-heating. It seemed the radiator passed enough water or coolant but the scale even with distilled water ALWAYS used on coolant changes reduced heat rejection that it wasn't able to tow much anymore. SON installed full gauges, a new water pump, new fan clutch, and a new Mishimoto HD radiator. He can now cruise 80 mph into 30 mph headwind in 90 degree temps with AC on Max with egt's around 900 degree F and 12 psi boost and 195 degree coolant temp with 193 degree thermostat. So engine is working but not breaking a sweat. So, Restore is not a 100% cure. I had used it to remove nitrites in the block on the last cooling system flush and also inside the radiator. Maybe Restore Plus would have worked better. That's what Son used when he flushed the cooling system before installing all the new parts. Had to laugh, my Buddy who lived in Waukesha recommended a cooling system repair shop to me in Milwaukee 15+ years ago. They by cores direct from Modine and rebuild radiators if needed. I call them and the old owner has retired. His son installs an imported radiator if he feels like it, but he only works 2-3 days a week. No more tearing them apart and rebuilding them.
  13. Dad and neighbor shared a sprayer when they both farmed in the 1960's. I'd keep the boom around 24 to 30 feet wide. The center 8 ft attached to the sprayer frame, and the 8 to 10 ft fold-up sections pivot off the ends of the center section. There are manual controls available to control which sections of the boom spray, and electronic versions. Since your spraying open irregular areas without rows to drive by you need a set of foam markers. Other option is maybe something like Climate Field View may have the capability to monitor your progress across your pastures. HY-PRO has about everything you need for building your sprayer. They have a great website, and are a really good company. Company I last worked for also owned Hy-Pro and I travelled to suppliers with their VP and Purchasing Mgr. I built a smaller scale version of what you need for spraying my 2.3 acre yard about 12-14 years ago. Small Hy-Pro roller pump, only 4 nozzle spray boom about 80 inches wide, really wanted to make it wider but I have over 100 trees to spray around. I started with the nozzles I wanted to use and the amount of spray I needed per area and bought parts accordingly. Worked great. Used it maybe half a dozen times and Wife wanted a puppy that really shouldn't run around grass sprayed with weed killer. My biggest expenditure was the 60 gallon plastic spray tank, second biggest was the HyPro #4100 4-roller pump. Things like a hand spray wand for spot spraying are a simple plumbing addition. I used to spot spray 45 to 60 gallons of Round-up around my yard years ago. Most from the seat of a moving Cub Cadet but lots of stops to spray as much area as I could reach with 30-35 ft of hose.
  14. J-Mech- Aren't Kohler K-series crankshafts cast iron? If so, another great reason NOT to weld them. Welding brings SO many problems with it. Every place I've ever worked used Metal Plasma spray to rework or salvage parts. Typically same shop did the part preparation, metal spray, and finish grinding. Normally they would rough grind to a uniform undersize OD, clean and spray, then finish grind to final size. Even the machine tool company recommended metal spray for salvaging parts that had a cutter break or other problem. Another rework or salvage method for crankshafts is hard chroming. But it's hard and brittle, and sometimes likes to flake off. Ever had a chisel or socket or screwdriver have the chrome start peeling? And it's expensive Too! You put more than 3-4 thousandths of an inch on, .003"-.004", plating starts growing Chrome Trees. It has to go on s-l-o-w-l-y to prevent that. Sometimes have to grind down due to pitting underneath the trees. Cost is all about time in the tank. It's not good for parts that have bending stresses on them, but swept plain bearing surfaces are good till the chrome starts peeling.
  15. Dad had already switched to 38 inch rows by the time I started doing lots of fieldwork, so the cultivators I'm familiar with were eight inches narrower that what Delta Dirt said. We had 16 ft gateways in all the fences, where we had fences, and no problems driving straight through them. All the country roads were only 16 ft wide before you got off onto the dirt and rock and grass/weeds and then into the ditch so if you met somebody you pulled the tractor & cultivator over as far as you could and the other guy got by you best he could. The County road our other farm was on was a 2-lane blacktop. You had to run the outside rear tire on the very edge of the pavement to not have the other side of the cultivator extend over the center line so meeting somebody was no problem. If you have a choice, I'd run on a 2-lane road with a car or truck behind you with 4-way flashers on. People, drivers, today don't always "See" tractors or farm equipment now days, but they see cars and pickups. And make sure you have an SMV emblem on the tractor. I bet 75% of today's drivers have NO idea what they are but I use them any time I pull on a road.
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