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DOCTOR EVIL

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  1. Wow, if Danny's Dad's truck had been one year later, a '58 it could have had a Super-Duty gas V-8 engine, 401, 477, and 534 CID. Bet those two? assuming there's one on the right side, Small side tanks would not have lasted very long. I've heard stories of 2 mpg with those engines, but there wasn't much that could run with them. Just a really neat old truck. Thanks for posting the picture Jerry.
  2. I bought a white tombstone seat made by K&M manufacturing from Bob Off when he was Easy Bob's Tractor Parts. That was at HCoP #2, 2005, 14 years ago. Devon owns that company now I'm pretty sure. Seat still looks brand new, no rips, tears, snags, granted I don't put 250 hours a year on that tractor anymore but it's still the most comfortable seat on this place. But 80-90% of my seat time on that tractor is pushing snow in the cold and the great grade of nauguhyde K&M uses holds up great in the cold, the 4 inches of foam rubber in the seat back and bottom cushions and the 2 inches in the fold-up armrests is in the same great condition it was in back in 2005. It was an expensive seat, but every time I settle into it I forget about the price.
  3. Son lives in north-west Davenport, can be to the truck museum in about 10-15 minutes. Should make him take me there sometime soon. He used to like going there with his Ram 2500 all the time, get more chrome for it.
  4. I was going to suggest wire EDM too, works on hardened steel, doesn't effect hardness, but like you say kinda pricy. Can stack 4 or even more pieces of steel on top of each other and cut them all at one time, save machine time. Plasma cutter and water jet cut a tapered kerf, gets wider the deeper it cuts, wire EDM doesn't. Mitsubishi brand wire EDM machines have a gear tooth profile right in their factory loaded programming, bet there's a spline program too. Laser is another possibility, I've had some crazy things done with laser that hard tooling couldn't do.
  5. Just saw the other commercial, it's Progressive Insurance, has a MoTaur, one guy gassing the gold & white tu-tone F250 and another sitting behind the wheel. The '60 to '64/'65 vintage Chevy/GMC pickups were really popular around home but from '67 to mid-70's lots of Ford's as farm trucks. And seemed like most of them were Tu-Tone. Ford had a Fuel Pincher half ton pickup in the mid1970's. One veternarian I delivered to lots when I drove for UPS in '78 had one. 300-6, 4 speed over-drive manual trans and 2.73 or 3.07 rear gears, 2wd only. Had a vacuum guage in the dash you were supposed to drive by to prevent lugging the engine. He really REALLY didn't like it. But it did get an honest 20 mpg. Good thing a lot of these dumb ideas to improve mpg didn't stick around long.
  6. Dad's '67 F-250 was a Camper Special, had the chromed diecast emblems on the cowl saying so. Big V-8, 352 was the big engine back then. FMX auto trans, the pickup box still had the hooks screwed into the sides to tie down the slide in camper. Think it just had a contoured painted or maybe chrome rear bumper which quickly got swapped for a tow bumper after Dad got it. Spare tire mounted out in front of the grill. Think it had 4.10 gears, ran about 2600 - 2800 at 65 mph, getting about 9 mpg. Motel room would have been WAY cheaper than the gas for this truck. Truck had a great seat, stainless baby West Coast mirrors. Stainless dog dish hubcaps on 16-1/2" tubeless wheels. The twin-I-Beam frt end ground the inside and outside ribs off the frt tires, and Dad surprised the heck out of me when he put Wide Oval Firestones on the back. It didn't take much to get one wheel peals on wet blacktop with it when it was empty. Don't think it had rear over-load springs. I know pickup box full of dry shell corn squatted the rear springs bad. By it's 4th birthday it had the typical rust holes behind both front tires. I fixed them with bondo before I went off to college summer of '72. I saw the truck January or Feb. Of '77, they were rusting out again but my repair lasted longer than the factory fenders did. Truck didn't have many miles on it, think it had 25,000 when we got it and between 40,000 and 50,000 when it sold at Dad's 1st auction December of '72. My '96 F-250 was as close to a Camper Special as Ford would make 24 years ago. Camper/trailer package, rear over-load springs, wiring for brake controller, trailer light plug in back, and 3.55 gears to run 72 mph around 2200-2300 rpm. Had/has XLT interior, but black vinyl floor mats plus still has the Rubber Maid floor mats that have been in Every car or truck I've owned except my Volvo and new pickup. Not sure about GM, but both Ford and Ram offer towing packages, integral brake controllers, and Ford even offers the backup by wire option which I really don't see a need for. LEARN HOW TO DRIVE and drive your truck yourself. One guy on another forum who collects and restores Cub Cadets has a Ram 3500 4-door Dually with a slide in camper he takes to garden tractor shows pulling a big trailer load of his Cubbies. There's been several late '60's and early '70's vintage Ford F-250 pickups on commercials lately, Sonic Drive-in used an old but beautifully restored F250 camper special pickup box as a sandy beach full of sand for the two guys to eat their meals in the back. Truck was the Custom tu-tone light blue and Wimbledon white, our '67 was a turquoise/white tu-tone, looked blue next to any shade of green but looked green next to any shade of blue. And think it's Geico that has a yellow & white Camper Special with two dirt bikes in the box, guy is gassing the bikes up at a gas station.
  7. DeWalt makes a couple different 1/2" corded drills, same motor, 8.5 amp but the rpm is different. I bought their slowest drill, 800-850 rpm, has an extra stage of hearing for slower speed, have to be REALLY careful, that thing could break your arm if the bit caught and bound up. I tried running some 3/8" lag bolts with it. Had to drop down to my 3/8" 2000 rpm drill, kept snapping the lag bolts. My 3/8" DeWalt drill has been run hard and put away wet thousands of times, and the only repair has been replacing the power cord, twice. I would imagine a Milwaukee corded tool would perform as well. Interesting thing about Milwaukee Electric Tool, I interviewed with them for a buying position in 1997. Had three interviews in 2 days. The interviewer and I discussed the cordless power tool business. I told him that the nicad batteries used in R/C racing were stressed the hardest of any that I knew about and you pull the packs all apart and you find only Sanyo sub-C cells. And that the Mod motors were crazy how fast and hard they would pull. I often wonder how much they investigated R/C motors and batteries before they started working on their Fuel line of tools. The Lipo batteries available now make Nicad's look like a potato.
  8. I didn't even reach for the TA lever on Dad's 450 till the tach dropped below 900-1000 rpm. Lot of times the tough spot passed and she'd wind up and pull at 1450 again. Hard to believe they were only rated 55 hp. The 450 kept up good to the neighbor's series 4 D-17, but his series 2 D-19 gained a couple hundred feet every round plowing half miles rows, until the last year we both farmed with the 450 & D-19, 1968. Neighbor dropped half a gear, the 450 just kept going in 3rd gear, had to pull the torque on a couple steeper hills.
  9. DOCTOR EVIL

    H tack

    The tach Diesel Doctor talked about the distributor stays the same, the gearbox right in front of the distributor is different, has really fine pitched gears, and the nylon tach gear runs out the bottom back at an angle. Tach drive, cable, and tach/hour meter/speedometer is from a 300/350 Farmall. I bought all the parts at my IH dealer spring of 1969, gearbox was used, parts manager was saving it for HIS H but gave me a deal on it. Everything was about $150 in 1969 Dollars. Think Steiner sells everything now and price is about the same. I've replaced the drive cable once in 50 years and 2000+ operating hours. Lot of electronic tachs out there. Not sure how many are 6v. Dakota Digital, Faria, Isspro, Stewart Warner, Autometer, and a bunch of industrial measurement guage companies available thru Grainger or McMaster-Carr.
  10. Word of warning! If you want a keyed switch I would get one from an auto parts yard, an OEM switch, make sure you get keys too. I made the HUGE mistake of replacing the old Mopar switch on the M after Son lost the key. Went to.... Napa. First switch lasted about a year, that means it started the tractor maybe 5-6 times. Went and got the second switch, Napa store manager really had no sympathy for me buying a P.O.S. imported switch from him. Second switch was junk right out of the box, He DID exchange that one. NAPA-worst auto parts store in my town by far. All the Checker stores are now O'Reilly's, had good luck with them. My local service &repair shop buys most of his parts there. Had him put a new alternator on my Volvo about 1-1/2 years ago. Sold the car last fall. SON's buddy bought it, he had it maybe 2 weeks and the alternator stopped charging. Paid my shop a visit, got his order number and date, went to O'Reilly's got their invoice number for warranty, Volvo's new owner went to His O'Reilly's 200 miles away and got his new alternator off of my warranted. It's a $700 alternator, that's a pretty big deal!
  11. I'm always envious of M's/SM's with good matching tires, and even more so if they are 23 degree Firestones. Oh, and eat your Wheaties if you try to remove that steel plate under the drawbar. Steel weighs more than cast iron, roughly 11% more, and that plate weighs almost as much as ALL the wheel weights. Nice SM, and the loader looks good too.
  12. One year I drove a 478 CID IH gas V-8 powered FleetStar single axle semi tractor pulling a 45 ft dry box trailer. Straight 5-speed, single speed axle, would run 62 mph on the flat, little less into a head wind, little faster with tail wind or downhill. Empty weight was around 22,000#, loaded was normally 30,000#, sometimes maybe 35,000#. Averaged 3.0 to 3-1/4 mpg. Probably a bit less than 3 mpg when making deliveries. That 478 was roughly 7.8L, bit bigger than Ford's new 7.3L gas V-8. The new Ford should get better mpg than the old Binder did, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mpg, but going from 3 to 3-1/4 mpg is a bit over 8% increase. For comparison, the F700 Ford with 8.2L GM Fuel Pincher got about 7 mpg, it had 2 spd axle too. Same trailer, same loads. And that engine needed injection work about every 15,000-20,000 miles. I think a guy could make a good case for a medium duty diesel semi-tractor if he hauls frequently enough.
  13. Advertising pictures. Still pictures, for a calendar, buyers guide, etc. Guy on a tall ladder positioned just so you couldn't see the big 4x4. It was a greasy wet morning, I had gotten my UPS package car stuck in a frost heave and was waiting for the old neighbor to get his #60 JD started and come down and pull me out of the ruts. Got stuck FIVE TIMES that week. I-beam frt axle had about 4 inches of ground clearance. It would start dragging and grind me to a stop. WAY too wet to be plowing.
  14. Seen Mother Deere do that at their Ag test farm back in '78. Had large FWA tractor hooked to plow 1-2 bottoms more than it could ever hope to pull in good conditions, then a 50 ft steel cable running up to their biggest articulated 4WD. To listen to you guys you make it sound like it was impossible to farm 40-50 years ago and right now without a 3 pt hitch. Lot of Dad's implements were semi-mounted, like his sickle bar mower, was an Oliver with two swiveling caster wheels and an IH 1-1/2"x 12 inch hyd cylinder to raise/lower the cutter bar. Mower bolted to the big horseshoe drawbar on the H with two bolts, the swinging drawbar on the H or SH was quik-detach, loosen the 5/16" cap screw that held the swinging drawbar pin in place and the drawbar fell right off. Hook up PTO and the single hyd hose and be mowing in 4-5 minutes. How many guys have Danuser post hole augers? How long does it take you to mount them to your 3-pt hitch? Dad had a semi-mounted Continental post hole digger. Same deal, remove swinging drawbar from H/SH in 2 minutes or less, back up to post hole digger, lift fry of digger, 5 gallon bucket was the right height, flip bolt plate down and install & tighten the two bolts onto horseshoe drawbar, attach PTO shaft, hook trip ropes to tractor seat. Took another 2-3 minutes. Pull type plows, disks, planters, hay rakes, carts, wagons, hay racks, rotary hoes, manure spreaders, elevators, pull type small combines all hooked to drawbar. Things like row Crop cultivators, and corn pickers mounted directly to the tractors. Only Dad's 4010 had a 3-pt hitch and we never used it, never hooked a single thing to it. Used the Fast Hitch on the 450 quite a bit. Used the IH 4F-43 fully mounted plow 2 years, used the IH #25 rotary shredder to chop corn stalks couple years, used FH blade several times. The little N Fords were really out of their element in Row Crop country. The fact there were so many improvement add-on items like gear boxes, etc proves just how lacking the original tractors really were. Look at all the stuff M&W, Behlen, and Heisler made for the H&M. Just shows how badly IH needed a BIG rowcrop tractor in 1953 instead of releasing the 806 in 1963. Like Bill Ohio said, "What IF IH built the Super R-TA in 1954? 335 CID gas or 350 CID diesel, 5-6 speeds, maybe 8 like their prototype M, TA of course. IH spent too many years trying to replace the Mule and let the BIG tractor market get away from them.
  15. I hope Machinery Pete goes to this auction. Could make several shows from just the first day! I went to an auction about 24-25 years ago around Jefferson, Wisconsin that had Five Super H's, and this sale has SIX!
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