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Sask466

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Posts posted by Sask466

  1. Rods like 7018 have a flux specifically designed to minimize a problem called hydrogen embrittlement.  It’s an issue on pipeline welding that has lead to failures.  One source of the hydrogen is from H20 in the flux, when present.  
     

    I think is also more of an issue in higher tensile steels.  Some of these pipe steels are much higher carbon than typical steels used in equipment manufacturing.  


    The rods are kept in a rod oven for a minimum of a few hours, it’s it’s expected the welders is using rods from there.  It’s on the standard issue inspector’s checklist, so to speak. 
     

     

    1 hour ago, vtfireman85 said:

    @Finneycan correct me here, but due to the cellulose flux which absorbs water rods for inspected work have to be fresh that day or stored for certain times in an oven before use. 
    doesn’t mean I wouldn’t use it for my wood splitter wedge, but it certainly is negatively affected by moisture. 
    hopefully they can correct my errors here. 
    i think it was a Miriam Graves product, or at least marketed through them pretty sure that is what that chart is from. 

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. I have a truck with a DT466 transplant - if you are curious about the build/truck I have a thread over in the projects area.  I posted the my question below on that thread, but it didn’t get much action being in the projects section. 

    This truck sat with very little use for about 5 years prior to me building it up (which took another 5 years).  The pump is set at the bone-stock settings, with the exception of the aneroid loosened up a bit

    The truck starts, idles and runs great.  The engine seemed to have a slight miss/unevenness between 1000 to 1500rpm.  It also seemed very intolerant of lugging.  If you idle it down to go around a corner and then gently get back in the throttle it has a slight shuddering feeling.  I am talking no load and low speeds - not what you would typically call “lugging”.

    I think it is the injectors.  Before I did my first long trip (3 hrs), I dumped a bottle of Stanadyne supplement and a bottle of 2-stroke oil in the tank.   After driving about 2 hours, I was happily surprised to see most of that miss cleared up.  The low rpm lug/shudder has mostly cleared up too.  I’m not sure if it’s the fuel concoction I put in, or the running for 2hrs straight at a good load.  It’s probably mostly the running under load, but who knows.

    When I get some time and more cash, I will do the injectors.  Any tips on injectors?  Should I buy rebuilds and do core returns? Should I have a local shop test/rebuild the ones I have?  Just curious if there are any quality issues with exchange injectors that I should be aware of. 

  3. Not too many updates.  I took the truck on a 6hr round trip.  It’s pretty comfortable on the highway.  It runs pretty nice at 2000rpm at 65mph now.  It seems to be a nice spot for the DT466 to run at - at least with just the truck and no trailer.  
     

    I got 14mpg, mostly at 65 to 70mph and maybe one shot to 89mph...  I was pretty happy with that mileage.  The old 466 is pretty much as fuel efficient as a new truck that size.  
     

    The electric fans are doing well.  It was 30degC (85F) for most of the trip and the engine never swayed from 180F.  No big hills here, and again wasn’t pulling anything.
     

    The engine seemed to have a slight miss/unevenness between 1000 to 1500rpm.  It also seems very intolerant of lugging.  If you idle it down around a corner and then gently get back in the throttle it has a slight shuddering feeling.  I am talking no load and low speeds - not what you would typically call “lugging”.


     I think it is the injectors.  Before I did that trip, I dumped a bottle of Stanadyne supplement and a bottle of 2-stroke oil in the tank.   After driving about 2 hours, I was happily surprised to see most of that miss cleared up.  The low rpm lug/shudder has mostly cleared up too.  I’m not sure if it’s the fuel concoction I put in, or the running for 2hrs straight at load.  It’s probably mostly the running under load, but who knows.

    When I get some time and more cash, I will do the injectors.  Any tips on injectors?  Should I buy rebuilds and do core returns? Should I have a local shop test/rebuild the ones I have?  Just curious if there are any quality issues with injectors that I should be aware of.

     

     

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    • Like 7
  4. I agree with the general comments that that less restrictive is better, especially on diesels.  There is a show called Engine Masters (derived from the magazine).  They have done a few shows with exhaust systems.  Seems like for exhaust pipe and mufflers, bigger is better.


    I would say diesel - the bigger and less muffled the better.  Lowers EGT’s - it’s probably easier on exhaust valves.  
     

    Putting a straight pipe on a gas engine that is already marginally lean might be a source of the “hot valve” theory/lore?
     

     

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-masters-ep-9-busts-the-backpressure-myth-3-vs-2-5-inch-exhaust/

  5. Hopefully this isnt a hijack...

    On the topic of cold oil pressure, what is a typical maximum?  I have a DT466c truck motor and when cold the pressure goes to 100+ at any rpm over about 1500rpm.  The gauge goes to 100psi, so I have no idea what the actual pressure is.  At cold idle it’s like 55psig.  When I say cold, I mean like 60F.  I go ginger on it until the temps pick up.  Hot idle is in the 25 to 30 range.  Hot at 2000 rpm would be like 50 to 60.

  6. I am not too sure - out of energy/out of funds for the time being!  
     

    I was first thinking about a flat deck, but I have been wondering about maybe just a steel plate over the frame rails, the entire length of the truck.  I like the truck looking like a small highway tractor.   I plan to put a gooseneck/fifth wheel on in and pull a camper. 
     

    image.jpeg.0228c4acca57fe101ef9472291e27d47.jpeg

     

    This photo was on the forum a while back - seems like inspiration, but I am not sure if wood is my style.  The truck is stunning though.

    5685A796-5B84-43E8-A119-5D57D3B5756B.jpeg.205d7bc6fca34c94295f049de5171432.jpeg

  7. Oh I hear you there.  That’s why I didn’t post anything.  I have nothing to sell.  Just seems like there is oddball IH stuff for sale out there in the far reaches of the internet that people on here may find interesting.  

    For example, a few years back, there was a 78 IH 4300 for sale in Sask Canada claiming to have a KTA Cummins.  It sat on the local ads for months.  Seemed rare, and interesting.  

    If a running thread like that would de-value this forum and go against the grain, not a worry.  I get both sides of the coin!
     

     

     

  8. Some forums I have been around have an interesting “whatever” section.  It’s mainly used for special interest vehicles related to the forum.  Not for people to sell their stuff, but for interested parties to post items that might be rare/hard to find/interesting etc.  For example, there is are a couple of really cool old IH’s on the local classifieds in my area - someone 1000’s of miles away would probably have no idea.

    Is this allowable on this forum?  It might be a fun coffee shop item!?

  9. If we are going to throw highway tractors into the mix

    As far as the 40’s went, I think the K-Series are hard to beat

    image.jpeg.71bc4ca65d83f6e870ae27e5a1c2af9b.jpeg


    As far as semi modern trucks, it’s a toss-up with the 4300 and 9370’s.  I think they both look best with day cabs or small flat-tops.   I am partial to the 9370’s as we had one.
     
    I can’t say that a 359/379 Pete or a W900a Kenny isn’t the most “beautiful” classic truck style, but I think it’s partly the chrome jewellery.  These old IH’s looked great in work clothes.  The old 4300’s also took very well to those over-the-top wacky 70’s paint schemes.  I really think they are underrepresented in the antique truck world.
    image.jpeg.223d779c708d4c9a425b58861e0e54a1.jpeg

     

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    • Like 8
  10. I took the truck out yesterday with the new gear set.  I couldn’t be more happy with the change.  Everything feels so much more calm at highway speed doing 2000rpm vs 2500+ at 65mph.  The engine isn’t screaming, the driveline is turning slower, etc, etc.  5lo is basically what 5hi used to be with the old gears, so heavy towing shouldn’t be overly affected.  In those cases I would just stay in 5lo.  The 2speed axle is what makes this swap great - I don’t think these would be the right gears with a straight 5 or 6 speed.

     

    I also found that on the gravel/pavement driving I plan to do, 2nd and 3rd gears are now more useful.  If this was a truck that spent time in the field that probably wouldn’t be the case.

     

     

    • Like 2
  11. I have had the truck in stop and go traffic on fairly hot days, and some short acceleration bursts.  I haven’t seen the temps go above 180 yet, but it really hasn’t seen big sustained loads yet.  The fans do come on and off intermittently when there is not much airflow (usually after you have been driving and let the truck idle to cool down) - so far so good!

    The 4.89/6.50 gear set is proving too slow - driving around at 65mph @ 2500rpm proved to be quickly tiring.   I found a used 3.70/5.05 crown and pinion in Ohio and had it shipped up here.  This should put me at 2000rpm @ 65mph.  I am almost done the swap.   I can’t help but keep laughing at how big that differential is.  I put it up beside a 9” Ford I had kicking around for comparison. 

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    • Like 5
  12. Well I have had the truck out a bit now.  I have over 100miles on the new odometerIt is running quite well.  Starts good, idles clean, power is acceptable (I haven’t messed with the pump yet).

     

    It does  seem to have a bit of shake/roughness (pretty subtle) from about 1200 to 1500rpm.  I think the exhaust note is a little uneven in that range too (again, quite subtle).  I seem to have a knack for noticing these types of things, and then fixating and driving myself crazy.


    The balancer appears to be in good shape.  My gut feel (based on very, very limited diesel diagnosis skills) is injectors?  At idle to 1000ish rpm it’s quite smooth, and smooth as silk from 1600 to 2700.  It’s also seems to pull okay through that rough rpm range.  
     

    I have an oil leak at the front of my injection pump, so I am planning on a bit of work on the fuel system this winter.  I also haven’t checked the valves yet.  My thought was the old IH truck ran good enough before I embarked on this project why mess with a bunch of stuff that isn’t broke.  The idea being get a good baseline/shakedown of the new truck prior to a bunch of “fine-tuning”.

    Note the truck has ran very little in the past 10-12 years, so it’s probably a wonder it runs so well.  The entire fuel system up to the pump is now new, same on the return side.

  13. I can’t tell you that detail about the grill either.  I was told it was a 66 when I bought it, and then figured it was a 65 when I researched the grill.  I have found several parts (which appear to be original) with 1966 markings, for example the windshield motor has a painted stencil with 1966. 
     

    I have heard that the medium duty stuff often to hangover parts from the F100/250/350’s, maybe that’s the case?  I also doubt the grill has even been replaced .

    I haven’t ever seen a 1960’s F500/600/700 with that hood scoop, but the larger “super duty” F800 and up had that scoop in the 60’s.  I found my scoop off of a late 50’s tandem.  If you ever have a chance to grab one, do it.  That are worth a couple hundred in really good condition.  If I have my story straight, Pontiac actually used this scoop from FoMoCo on some of their early 60’s muscle/drag cars.  

  14. It was the valve cover that had that timing on it, so who knows.  At a truck that age, the history gets murky.  I am 100% it is an original Bosch MW engine though - injector lines are OE, truck is and 86 and hasn’t seemed too tampered with, and 200000miles, etc.  

  15. This is great info, thank you!  
     

    Yes I have been told the 5488’s etc with the MW pump are timed at 24deg from past questions on this forum.  My engine tag says 18, but it seems to be set at 24deg, so go figure.
     

    Should I also replace part number 32 if it’s in bad shape?  Or does it not matter if it leaks?  (I can’t tell if the o-ring #34 seals around the pump bearing housing #33 , or just the outer face of it).

    I am probably asking questions that are hard to answer without tearing into things, I just want to get my parts lined-up best I can.

  16. I have a 466C and IH chassis under a 1966 Merc F700 - if anyone is curious about the truck you check it out in the Proejcts section of this forum. Apparently it was the end of the day when I painted the bottom side of the injection pump - kind of embarrassing to post this picture!

    The pump had a massive ball of dirt and oil on the bottom of it when I first bought it.  I figured it was that cheapy tin cover/pan on the bottom of the pump, since they are known to be problematic.  I replaced it - I think it may have been leaking too as the o-ring didn’t look too healthy on the old cover.

    I have my project in the final stages and I am starting to use the truck.  It appears I still have a small drip coming back.  It looks be between the injection pump and the pump adapter plate.  I am still searching for a 466c service manual, and I haven’t had much luck on the internet either.  Note that open bolt hole is not leaking, for some reason the bolt was missing, and I plugged it with a bit of shop towel, and it’s stayed bone dry.

    It looks like the pump has to come off. To confirm, am I correct that I am best off pulling the adapter plate and pump as one whole unit?  Does this allow the front drive gear stay attached to the pump? 
     

    There is a plug on the side of the adapter plate with timing marks in it.  If I bump the engine over and get these marks lined up, I assume that will make re-install easier?  I don’t plan on turning the engine or pump while things are apart anyway.  
     

    In terms of what’s leaking - what seals between the pump and the front adapter plate?  Is it part# 34 - it’s labelled as the “front bearing housing ring”.  That could mean a few different things I suppose...

    (those parts diagrams are from an old IH MW Bosch pump manual available by a quick google search if anyone is looking)

    BC2C85CD-18CF-409B-B07D-A4D01C2FE2DC.thumb.jpeg.f4910041a84461dbc8c16a9f62056c50.jpegD42C7309-2FB8-4A92-9D70-160621847E36.thumb.jpeg.2dcebed17695b9d7494c1bb99d10dd21.jpegD7BA6A81-9A53-4CE1-947E-D9972A6045E4.thumb.jpeg.772a5dc2a25106436990f4e4eab72fd4.jpeg

     

     

     

  17. I have a engine design theory question - I have been logging a fair bit of time on the road for work; it’s left my mind with spare time to wonder and pontificate!

    First off - my intent is not to start an IH vs Case “which is better discussion” debate -  I don’t want to start and brand war.  We loved both tractors mentioned below and they each had their pluses and minuses.  My observations below are completely subjective and believe it or not, my “gut feelings” have been proved wrong before!

    I grew up on a grain farm, and when I was young we had a 2590 and a 1586 as main field tractors.  At full rated RPM, the 1586 didn’t feel too far away at all from the 2590 in terms of power. The 2590 did seem to be an overachiever on the dyno from factory though - it seemed to always do 195 on the dyno when it was in the shop.  

    The difference really showed at the RPM levels - the IH would really light up around 1800rpm, almost where the Case started to fall off.  The torque at 1500rpm on these two engines wasn’t even comparable.  A neighbor had a 5488, and the difference was less, but it still didn’t have near the low end grunt the Case had.  But on pull-type 1482’s in the same field that 5488 had a ton of power (as much or more than the Case) at it’s rated rpm. 

    I finished building an only F700 Mercury truck with a DT466 transplant, and I am once again reminded of those DT’s - it really doesn’t light up at all until 1800, and then comes on like a freight train. It’s got the never MW inline pump.

    My question is - what makes these two engines so much different is power curves?  The crank stroke on the Case is a bit longer (10%ish).  The displacement is about 10% more... 

    Are the cams fundamentally different?

    Is the main difference only in fuel pump settings?

    Are their reasons the DT can’t handle these lower rpm torque figures?  It seems like the DT is a stout engine.  Are the blocks, cranks or heads not up to the task vs say a 504 Case or 505 Cummins? 

    What was IH’s idea with higher rpm?  It seems like high rpm was an IH philosophy?

    Another example of this were the old Mack’s - a 300hp 673cube Mack engine seemed to have more bottom end torque than a 350hp 855 Cummins.  I also heard the Cummins wouldn’t last being lugged and they did seem to like rpm.
    Those old Mack’s were pretty much done by 1800rpm where the power seemed to just fall off quickly.  The old Cummins was just starting to party at 1600 rpm - they pulled hard to 2100.  What made these two engines characteristics so much differnent?

     

     

     

     

  18. Awesome looking truck!  I have a similar, but almost opposite project -  A 60’s Mercury (same as Ford) F700 on a newer IH frame.    It looks you had to cut a similar sized hole in the firewall.  Are you doing a removable doghouse, or welding it in?  That part of the project was a bit of a pain for me - fun but lots of time to get it right. 

    It’s coming along great!  That newer chassis will make the truck way more drivable.  I took 5 or 6 years to get mine nearly done - if I tried to rush it any quicker, it would have felt like a job and not as much fun.  It looks like you are doing it right - that so much more important than doing it fast!

  19. The trick with fitting a road ranger would be figuring out the parking brake - I assume your truck is hydraulic brakes and the existing park brake mounts on the back of the trans?  I have a very similar drivetrain in my truck and I can’t see to find any road ranger options with a parkbrake (all trucks that class had air brakes).

    A lot (I bet probably more than half) of MDT trans that are 6 speeds are NOT overdrive, and the difference in identification are only serial/model numbers, so be wary.  
     

    Also, fast rear ends in the 2speeds are rare (mine is a Spicer M190T with a 4.88 ratio, and fast gear sets/3rd members seem extremely hard to find).  Most are slower, as they were mostly on gas-jobs.
     

     

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