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Sask466

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Posts posted by Sask466

  1. 15 hours ago, jeeper61 said:

    Looks like $800 to me I could be wrong.

    What the deal with the Aluminum frame? 

    Was that done to meet some weight restriction?

    That brings the scrap price up some.

     

     

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    What’s the deal with aluminum frame - read the description, it says “new breaks”!

    Most of the aluminum frames I have seen have mostly had “old breaks” 😝.

    Joking aside - it wasn’t uncommon for manufacturers to use aluminum frames back in the 70’s.  Mack, Kenworth and probably a few others tried it too.  I guess the big plus was the weight savings.   But, they all seemed to eventually develop cracks from I am assuming was fatigue failure.  
     

    All the truck manufacturers moved away from use of aluminum on frames by some time in the 80’s, at least from what I have observed (I am no expert).  

  2. 45 minutes ago, acem said:

    It would be easier to install the inline pump that was offered on the dt466. 

    That’s not really correct - It wouldn’t be much easier and it wouldn’t get you very far.  The only inline pump offered to my knowledge on the DT466A/B/C was an MW Bosch, and pullers seem to hate that pump with a notable passion.  

    An MW doesn’t have ability to support over 300 to 400hp, and requires significant work to make any better (custom machine work).

    The first reply is the way to go - pick a pump and then source an adapter plate and hub from a pulling shop/pump guy.  



     

  3. 23 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

    Good to know. I don’t wear loggers, do they have other types?

    The four companies I have seen are White’s, Nick’s, Frank’s and JK boots. I think the size of the companies are in that order (large to small).  Whites are the original company (for like 100yrs) and the others are spin-off’s.  I think all four make super high quality and are pretty comparable boots.  JK and Frank’s are smaller companies, so you talk with the owners (or their sons) when you call.  

    They all seem to make different versions and all have a low heel model too.  You can also get iron worker (heel-less) sole options.  

    I was a bit nervous about buying a logger heel - but it really does help posture as well.  It brings your hip forward a bit and your shoulders back and seems to take strain off your lower back - if that makes sense.

    • Like 1
  4. From months of winter shut-in, for some reason I got into boots.  I came to find that Spokane is home to 4 different custom boot makers.  They are all known for making a similar style boot.  Custom fit logger and wildland firefighter boots - tall heels for arch support and thick leather.

    If you google Spokane work boots I am sure you will find one of them - I am not here to peddle anyone’s product.

    I bit the bullet and bought a pair (they are $500USD).  I must say I am impressed.  I sent in measurements and tracings of my feet, and these things are glove-fit.  
     

    Is anyone else running these type of boots?  

     

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  5. This was outside of Swift Current, SK about a week ago.  It was -49C (-56F) with the windchill.  It was about 60km/h (40mph) winds.  Although we get colder than that at times, it’s rare to have that nasty of a wind.  It was brutal - I had to spend about 2hrs throughput the day out there.   I have no idea how rabbits, coyotes and whitetail deer survive this stuff.  
     

     

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  6. 1 hour ago, J-Mech said:

    You told him basically the same thing over a year ago........ see below.  

     

     

    This kid don't listen.  Read the thread and all his other ones too.  Giving him a dose of reality isn't tearing him down.  It's life.  He needs to experience it sooner rather than later.  Otherwise he will be just another snowflake.  The world is filling up with those now........ don't be an enabler. 

    Do you realize how miserable and abrasive you come off in some of your posts?  Your knowledge (and you seem to be very, very knowledgeable) is what makes this forum great, but your attitude is what makes me want to throw my iphone out the window.  
     

    Guess what this young lad has?  It’s an obvious interest in mechanical things and things IH.  Guess what his peer group probably lacks?  I am betting a lack of interest in mechanical things, and almost certainly most have never heard of a DV-800.  And, even if there were peers, he probably can’t go see them anyway due to Covid.  
     

    Is the idea of a titanium crankshaft ludicrous to a person with your level of knowledge? Sure it probably is.  It would be financially impractical, and good luck finding a place to do it.  It also would do little to address the main shortcomings of that engine anyway.  He would be much better served setting his sights on a more practical project.  Ie, find an old truck, get it running, change some seals, drive it around, and dream/plan on throwing 5.9 Cummins into it someday.  

    But you are missing the point here - it’s a young guy spending his time thinking about trucks and engines.  I can think of a lot worse ways for a teenager to spend their time.  
     

    Help the young guys out - tell the  to go purchase a book like “Agricultural Mechanics: Fundamentals & Applications”.  If they don’t have the scratch for the textbook, go down to the local library and see what mechanics textbooks they have.  


    There is an old saying about if you  have nothing nice to say, don’t say anything at all.  That’s advice someone should have taught you when you were a teenager.  

    • Thanks 3
    • Confused 1
  7. On 12/30/2020 at 9:55 AM, Injpumped said:

    Inline pumps have no timing advance mechanism. So they need timed around 28-32* or so. The DT with a Model 100 is timed at 18* but has a 14* internal timing advance, so 18+14 is 32*. Doing the job the op is, I would have timed it before pulling it off to see where it was timed previously. Cummins B/C engines are timed at TDC, but there is a certain number of degrees between beginning of injection and where the pointer is located. Deere is same way. The theory is there's less room for mistakes. Pin the engine, pin the pump and voila!

    Thank you for clarifying that! 
     

    2 hours ago, Mike56073 said:

    When I needed a manual for my inline I ended up getting one from peaceful creek.  They don’t have it advertised on their website but if you call them they have the blue ribbon manual for the Robert Bosch.

    I have the same manual from Peaceful Creek, and don’t have the Robert Bosch stuff either - good to know that they have that manual too.  There is a manual online I have downloaded - it’s a PDF of what seems to be the original IH manual.  What it lacks is specific directions on pump removal/installation, but otherwise pretty complete.  Does the blue ribbon manual go over install and timing?

    https://injectionpumps.co.uk/pdf/bosch_pe(S)_inline_fuel_injection_pump_service_manual.pdf

  8. 2 hours ago, ZG6E said:

    Well I found a pretty good matchup here between a 5.9 in a white 120 and a 436 in a 1466 at 2166rpm and 2071rpm respectively. Apples to apples I sure don’t see a 25% fuel savings- looks more like a 1% in these particular tests. I’m thinking your guys may be experiencing a placebo effect after doing a Cummins swap. Are the guys doing these swaps adjusting the pumps so they don’t lose road speed? How does the Cummins in that 1486 posted like humming down the road at 2600 rpm? I had a 3200 rpm spring in my 12v and it seemed like it fell on its face at about 25-2600 or so. I suppose it was defueling. 
     

    I do think the Cummins is a good engine by the way- I’m not trying to bash on them. I just don’t rate them above a 400 series, maybe about evenly. 

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    The number I was impressed with was the 2096 Case, but upon further reflection I may have overstated a bit, I think.

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  9. The physical size of a 466 is much larger than a 5.9, if swaps are being considered.   When you look at two, it’s obvious they are fighting in different weight classes.  (Even though the 6bt crowd thinks they have the same engine as a Kenworth). Haha!

    The 5.9 makes way better use of space than a 466, the designers must have had in mind.  The front drive/accessories area is nice and compact with its serpentine belt setup.  I fit a 466 under a 1965 F-700, and it required lots of cutting; the back of the head is where the cup-holder should be.  

  10. Latest update:

    To help deal with ride and stability, I decided to put some ballast in the back.  I got a 1.25” x 28” x 72” chunk of plate mounted in between the frame rails.  I then covered over the top of the frame with 1/2 plate.  It should add up to around 1200lbs total.  

    Even with the spring rear and no worth the ride was nearly tolerable, at least on highways.  I aired the rear tires down a fair bit, which was a huge help. 

    This added weight should help with getting some more sprung weight in the back.  If I get sick of the ride I may do air ride at a later date, but I really want to avoid it if I can.  

     


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  11. I apologize to the original poster for my part in taking this thread down unrelated paths, I hope nobody gets too annoyed.   
    On the topic of swaps, the mention of 3208’s came up earlier.  I have the whopper of all 3208 swaps, see picture below.  This car still exists in Regina, SK at least as of last year. 

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    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  12. 30 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said:

    Actually a 6V53 with N45 injectors was usually 220hp. I have the tag. And that's 220 hp that can be used all day long. Not like the hot rodded diesel pickups that claim big numbers that can only be used a few times for a quarter mile. If the 318 cubic inch 6V could motivate a L-8000 dumptruck, I think it will do just fine in a ton-and-a-half or whatever a heavy spec 1990 F-450 is rated for. 

    Yeah, that’s a fair point with 220hp.  But the weight is still a killer.  What makes the 5.9 Cummins okay in smaller trucks is its “relatively” low weight.  I think it’s 1100ish lbs.  

    Don’t get me wrong, I am not a 6bt fanboy.  I find the legend it has become a bit annoying to me for some reason.  That motor wasn’t great in medium duty trucks.  It certainly didn’t get its 500,000 mile longevity in medium duty trucks.  I think 200k was expectable when they were worked hard.  It’s a 150hp motor at best, if it’s going to spend its life pulling it’s guts out.  

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  13. The smaller Detroit’s seem like a good idea for swaps at first, but after a bit of research they quickly become a bad one in my opinion.  The big truck engines 8v71, 8v92 had really good power to weight ratios compared to the older big inline sixes, but the smaller engines seem to be almost the opposite.  
     

    I think a 6v53 is like 1800lbs and 180hp is pushing it.  A 671 looks like a way bigger motor than it’s 426cubes, and I think is almost 2000lbs.  An 8v92 is like 2500lbs at 500hp without big modifications.   I looked at mid-size Detroit’s for my truck project, but they just didn’t make sense.

     A series 50 would be an interesting motor to swap into a 4386 or even a 4586.  It’s a 4cyl version of a Series 60.  It’s still a big engine - like 9 litres.  It would be nice and short, I bet it would fit in the IH’s. 
     

    Series 40 is still the best engine “Detroit” ever made?.

  14. The real question is, has anyone d282-swapped a 3/4 ton Dodge?   If we can find that man and get his opinion, we can settle this argument once and for all!

    I think whatever floats your boat, do it.  The Cummins is a much newer engine design, and there is certainly benefits from that.  If that tractor is going to spend it’s next 50 years in a parade, keep it the way it is.  If those same next years are planned for the field, do the Cummins swap and keep the old engine preserved.  It will come in handy for the day you get sentimental for a good old-fashioned hard-starting, but still lovable, original IH.
     

    Whichever way you go, you get to be one of the lucky ones to have an old IH tractor!

     

     

    • Haha 2
  15. Has anyone have first hand experience with a 4BT in a 7xx or 8xx tractor?  I wonder if the “excessive” vibration of that motor is noticeable with these tractors?  I know the 4bt guys that swap these motors into 1/2 tons and stuff complain about that a lot. We had one in an 8820 swather and you could tell it was a bit of a vibrator, even with it mounted far in the back.  

    But there is a lot more rigidity and mass in a tractor, so maybe not an issue?  I would be favouring the 6bt if it fits okay.  I cant see the 6bt being a issue running at lower horsepower levels.  Lots of the older tractors had massive engines compared to their hp; the 2090 case comes to mind.  
     

    These 5.9’s in old dodges would have sat around idling a lot, driving in city traffic, etc.  They would have spent lots of time running part throttle and developing low hp.  Up here in the Canadian Prairies they had wet-stacking issues, but that was mostly from guys letting their trucks idle excessively in excessively cold weather. 

    It’s funny how the 5.9 has become such a legend of longevity.  It’s really no more durable than any other good inline 6 diesel in my opinion.  Sure they can go 500,000+ in the odd dodge truck, but that’s really a low stress application.  Rarely is that engine producing 200+hp all day long in a 3/4 ton truck.
     

    855 Cummins used to do 15000hrs in 400hp highway trucks, and were getting tired in 300hp Versatile’s by 5000 or 6000hrs.  I think longevity really comes down to the application.   

    Our neighbour had a 5.9 in a mid-90’s Rogator sprayer.  I was 180hp and often in wet/soft field conditions.   That engine was fully, fully wore out in 4500hrs.  It got a major OH at that time.  But that poor engine would have worked its guts out pretty 100% of the time.  

    Good 4bt’s also seem to cost way more that a 6bt, like also twice as much it seems.  I’m not set on IH vs Cummins, but I will take a six over a four-banger anytime I can.  A more modern six would make an already good IH tractor better in my opinion. 

     

    • Like 2
  16. Rods like 7018 have a flux specifically designed to minimize a problem called hydrogen embrittlement.  It’s an issue on pipeline welding that has lead to failures.  One source of the hydrogen is from H20 in the flux, when present.  
     

    I think is also more of an issue in higher tensile steels.  Some of these pipe steels are much higher carbon than typical steels used in equipment manufacturing.  


    The rods are kept in a rod oven for a minimum of a few hours, it’s it’s expected the welders is using rods from there.  It’s on the standard issue inspector’s checklist, so to speak. 
     

     

    1 hour ago, vtfireman85 said:

    @Finneycan correct me here, but due to the cellulose flux which absorbs water rods for inspected work have to be fresh that day or stored for certain times in an oven before use. 
    doesn’t mean I wouldn’t use it for my wood splitter wedge, but it certainly is negatively affected by moisture. 
    hopefully they can correct my errors here. 
    i think it was a Miriam Graves product, or at least marketed through them pretty sure that is what that chart is from. 

     

    • Thanks 1
  17. I have a truck with a DT466 transplant - if you are curious about the build/truck I have a thread over in the projects area.  I posted the my question below on that thread, but it didn’t get much action being in the projects section. 

    This truck sat with very little use for about 5 years prior to me building it up (which took another 5 years).  The pump is set at the bone-stock settings, with the exception of the aneroid loosened up a bit

    The truck starts, idles and runs great.  The engine seemed to have a slight miss/unevenness between 1000 to 1500rpm.  It also seemed very intolerant of lugging.  If you idle it down to go around a corner and then gently get back in the throttle it has a slight shuddering feeling.  I am talking no load and low speeds - not what you would typically call “lugging”.

    I think it is the injectors.  Before I did my first long trip (3 hrs), I dumped a bottle of Stanadyne supplement and a bottle of 2-stroke oil in the tank.   After driving about 2 hours, I was happily surprised to see most of that miss cleared up.  The low rpm lug/shudder has mostly cleared up too.  I’m not sure if it’s the fuel concoction I put in, or the running for 2hrs straight at a good load.  It’s probably mostly the running under load, but who knows.

    When I get some time and more cash, I will do the injectors.  Any tips on injectors?  Should I buy rebuilds and do core returns? Should I have a local shop test/rebuild the ones I have?  Just curious if there are any quality issues with exchange injectors that I should be aware of. 

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