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12_Guy

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12_Guy last won the day on June 28 2019

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  1. I think the small portable planers work well for what they are meant for - resizing small stock. I had a Ryobi and later a Dewalt that I was trying to smooth rough sawn oak lumber. Neither one survived. Both failed pretty catastrophically. Thankfully I was able to return them both for refund. I bought a "real" planer. It is an old Delta and probably out-weighs both portables combined a couple times over. No regrets but it isn't portable.
  2. Gary, your description of the two is of course very accurate. I will try to describe how the horsepower is calculated. I hope my description is as accurate as yours are. Horsepower of a shaft is a function of the torque and speed of the shaft. Speed is of course RPM. Torque is expressed as foot-pounds or pound-feet. Either way you express the torque value, it is a measure of weight and distance. There is a formula that escapes me at the moment for horsepower. The Prony brake measures the RPM and weight. The length is fixed as the length of the bar that applies the torque produced by the brake to the scale. The brake is a constricting band type brake that acts on a spinning drum. I don't recall who figured out that the formula could be simplified by making the bar a specific length. That length is 63" from the center of the shaft to the end of the bar where it contacts the scales. This makes the formula HP=weight in pounds x RPM / 1000. The measurements are normally recorded at several weight and RPM points and then calculated. As the weight (torque) increases the RPM will decrease. You get different HP at different speeds and torques. I started building a half scale brake several years ago with a 24" pulley for the brake drum. It's arm or bar will be 31.5" long. The formula remains the same except you divide the product by 2000 instead. Unfortunately the pulley was not very balanced and had a couple of flat spots that would not work well as a brake drum. I hope this makes sense and is helpful. Most of my information comes from Bruce Babcock and Jerry Christensen. Both of these fellas have built, operated and written about Prony brakes extensively. Both are great guys who are willing to discuss them. I thank them both. I am currently still searching for a suitable large pulley for mine.
  3. Jeff, don't sweat this rad cap. If you have to destroy it I can get you a replacement. I probably have some here or can get one from Dwayne at Rustic Red. I think the one iowa shows is the original type. Steel stamping with a square nut inside. The cotter pin simply prevents you from completely unthreading the bolt. I believe that bitty's has a replacement bar that someone fabricated. I would try to pry up the cap first. If you get lucky the bar will give up and bend a bit. If that doesn't work, hopefully it will lift enough to get a long sawzall blade in there to cut the bolt. Don't worry about dropping parts. They will be laying in the tank bottom or on top of the core. Either way you just reach in through the open radiator hole and pick them up. No worries. Once you get a repaired/replacement cap, grease the crap out of the threads so it doesn't happen again. If you destroy yours let me know. I will get you a replacement. Good luck
  4. The only downside to the tilt deck is the small deck that doesn't tilt. It you are loading something small up front it probably works ok but if you want to haul two smaller tractors it would not work. You can't get them both on the tilt and you can't get the front of the first one on the small deck. The only way I could see it is if the front deck could hold the first tractor. I guess it's all about what you need to haul. For the pintle ring, I'm pretty sure that you can use some equalizing hitches. Friend of mine had one behind his bowtie. He traded for a Dodge so not sure if he still needs it. One ton. Try looking at Equalizer Hitches. I think they may have been bought out since Reese has copied it now. They were great. I have two.
  5. If the tilt is only 400lb heavier, and that's what you really want, I would go for it. Any truck that is actually capable of properly towing this trailer loaded will never notice the extra 400. Even a bowtie. Neither will you.
  6. I was looking for orchard shift linkage with not much luck. I think I am probably wrong. It may have been a cotton picker or something else. It basically is a short shifter with a "universal joint" on its top. The dummy shifter is mounted closer to the operator with another universal joint at the same height on the shifter. The shifters are connected with a shaft that is bent to fit and connected to the universals. It allows you to move the shifter forward and back and to twist it left or right. The real benefit is that you end up with a standard length shift lever without excessively long "throws". I hope that my description makes sense. You can spray loose juice below the wing and it should follow the bolt on down into the nut. I hope it helps. If you end up twisting it off, don't worry. Replacement caps are available from used parts vendors or you can get a new square nut to install in the stamped steel bar and install a hex bolt in place of the wing bolt. Not original but functional.
  7. I would assume that the differential was flipped to get the gears backwards. I don't even know if it is possible, but it seems like the only convenient way to get there. It looks to be using the F-20 radiator. The cap held on by the wing nut is the only cap. It is not pressurized. The wing nut is actually a bolt that threads into a bar across the opening. You loosen it a couple of turns and then lift the cap and shift it sideways to clear the hole with the bar and then lift it out. I hope that your bolt is not rusted tight in the bar. If so hopefully you can lift the lid enough to shift it and get it removed. For the shifter, you may want to consider cutting the shifter short and adding another shifter close to the operator. You can connect the two levers with some linkage. I think some orchard tractors used that setup. O-4, O-6 for example if l remember correctly.
  8. Weld it or replace it. There are aftermarket throttles available. I personally would replace it with an original IH type from a parts vendor.
  9. No Red Power? You're taking this abstinence thing WAY too far! This may not be good for your mental health. Hope to hear from you soon.
  10. Thought you guys might like to see an old IHC “monkey wrench”. Like most things IH built early on, each piece has their logo cast or stamped into the individual pieces. Notice that the head has indeed been used as a hammer.
  11. Round spokes all around, nice! Looks like somebody had fun building the ol girl. Like Bitty said, probably easier to mount the tires on the tractor. Probably the only easier way would be to replace the spokes with the later cast center wheels with the removable rims.
  12. An F-20 reversed to make a forklift?? Pics please. As for the tires, I assume the 6.50 would be fine. The 7.50 might be ok if you can get them on the rim. Sorry I’m not better help.
  13. As big of one as you have room for. As our local IH dealer told my dad years ago, " It'd be a shame to have almost enough. " Dad bought the bigger one of the two he was looking at. If nothing else it was a successful sales tactic.
  14. 12_Guy

    Tools

    I was thinking that the breaker bar looked like a Thorsen.
  15. Naw, that's Leroy the Redneck reindeer. Damn, ol Rudolph got them all!
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