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12_Guy last won the day on June 28 2019

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  1. We’ve had a couple of rental properties for almost 30 years. The best tenants were the shack ups. Young couples who are moving in together for the first time. Usually both working maybe trying to save for house or wedding. Normally all they make time for is working and screwing. Rarely home to tear anything up. 😀
  2. Seeing all of the pics of what is considered normal in some of those countries makes me thankful to be American! I must admit the hay stacking was impressive.
  3. Let's all play nice in our sandbox here fellas. It was suggested that we could have a thread on here about tieing down equipment. While such a thread could indeed be useful and educational, I can't imagine the chit show that would be. Ask 10 truckers and you're likely to get 10 answers. Ask 10 state troopers and they likely don't know or won't give you a direct answer. Heck, I bet 5 DOT enforcement officers would give different answers. I'm guessing that Dennis and Sally don't want ANYTHING to do with the liability issues that such a thread could create. Let's remember that the DOT rules/laws are the absolute minimum required. Just like plumbing or electrical codes are to establish a minimum standard. It is entirely permissible to do better. Like someone else already pointed out, it's better to do more than end up with the load in the cab with you. JMHO Really feel sorry for anyone involved in the accident. Hopefully the tractors can be saved.
  4. We had to get an additional policy for my sister’s cart. I think it was 1/2 mil coverage requirement. Might be easier to rent one once you get here.
  5. Yeah, he did ask but I somehow missed this thread. I suppose I have unrealistic standards, my bad. Let’s just all keep getting dumber. Quietly. LOL
  6. First off I think if I was writing this and talking about a new tractor from 1927, I would probably used a tractor a little closer to the approximate year. Also not sure that too many plows required a PTO. Yeah, of course the IH/Servus??? spelling??? Whirlwind terrace plow did but the normal average plow?? Not to worry, I don’t know how many people even know about the terrace plow. If this is truly an educational children’s book, you would think we could do better.
  7. I would not be too concerned with the vertical crankshaft Kohlers. I was somewhat sceptical at first. You know, OMG if the rear main seal leaks, the oil will go down into the alternator. Or OMG all of that rotor weight is applying end thrust to the bearings. We have installed dozens and have had zero issues with either. If you do any amount of routine maintenance, I would hope that you would notice an oil leak before it wrecks the alternator. If not the oil would probably go all the way through and take out the brushes before anything major. I mean if your horizontal crank genset's rear main goes what are you gonna do? Just let leak? The cooling fan on the alternator will blow that crap everywhere. They are smaller and very easy to work on. They are of course less expensive. They look similar to an A/C unit so customers are happy with their look.
  8. Yes, you can wire it as is. Replace the starter minus the little jumper wires and add leads to the DPS.
  9. Another way to go would be to reinstall the contactor and overload assy without the copper jumper wires. Wire the DPS in between like you have it now. Wiring it this way should prevent the necessity of upgrading the overload heaters.
  10. The motor is wired correctly. The colors or markings on the DPS matter not. It will either be running the right or wrong direction. No way to tell except power it up briefly. If wrong switch any two wire positions on the DPS output. There is no neutral. Leave the small wires as they are. This is your control circuit. Black from L1 down to pressure switch. Black back up to the coil. Red from coil to overload switch contact. Purple from switch back to L2. Your coil voltage should be 240.
  11. Here is a pic of a Square D overload. The right two heaters are installed upside down. It allows you to see the gear and tube pretty clear. Someone had installed them upside down by mistake. You can see the latch arm on top of the gears. They kept burning up motors because the shaft was too far forward and it couldn’t trip. This is an Allen-Bradley heater. The metal strip is wrapped around the tube. If you look close enough you can see that I crimped the tube near the gear. The shaft was loose and would turn easily so that it could not be reset. I crimped the tube to prevent it from turning to get the customer up and running. The other two were still functional so no danger to the motor. Earlier motor starters only used two anyway.
  12. Single phase overloads are Bi-metallic and have contacts that will open to break the circuit. These overload assemblys do not break the power to the motor but rather open up the control circuit that powers the coil on the contactor. The heater is the vertical metal strip between the two screws. The heater is sized to carry the motor current without heating up. Additional motor amperage will cause the heater to heat up enough to cause the unit to trip. It seems like all manufacturers have their own way of doing this. Square D and Allen-Bradley have a small shaft with a gear on the end inside a tube that fits tightly around the shaft. At room temperature the shaft is fixed. As it heats up the tube expands and the shaft will turn. There is a spring loaded latch that engages the gear and will push on it trying to rotate it. If it rotates the mechanism trips. Pushing the reset button compresses the spring and moves the latch so that it will grab another tooth on the gear. Heaters vary from thin wire wound multiple times around an insulator to thicker wire with a few turns to a thin metal strip to thicker metal strip. It all depends upon the manufacturer’s design and the amperage they have to carry.
  13. As vt stated, I'm a Kohler fan. We've sold and serviced them for years. My biggest problem with Generac was the valve train didn't have hydraulic lifters for years. I have been informed that they now do. It seemed to be a problem with the Generacs that we serviced. I don't think you will find a residential grade standby set that doesn't have brushes riding on slip rings. If you do it won't have as good of voltage regulation as the brush type. Brushes on slip rings will last much better than if on commuter bars. I have only seen one failure and it was caused by rodent infestation issues.
  14. 12_Guy

    Pool Canopy

    Nice looking but it looks a little weak to me... LOL just kidding
  15. I would start at the full +15% set point. It may work fine for limited use. The bottom black device is the overload assembly. The vertical metal strips are the heaters. They are available in different size ratings for different motor amperages. The black device on top is the contactor. It’s a heavy duty relay that connects the power to the motor. The complete assembly - contactor + overload is considered a motor starter. I would unhook the wires to the motor from the overload and move them to the DPS. Then add some jumper wires between. This way you don’t have to mess around with the motor. On second thought, are you certain that the motor was used on low voltage power 208-240volt? Not 480??? It might be wise to open up the motor box and count wirenuts. There will be 4 for 240 volt and 6 for 480volt not counting the ground connection.
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