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gwoswald

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Posts posted by gwoswald


  1. Fixed it. 

    So as I read through the suggestions and thoughts that the draft control can stop the remotes, I got to thinking about it. Last time I used the tractor, several weeks ago, I was using the subsoilers. I hit something large and popped the shear pin, figured enough for tonight, put the hitch in full lift, replaced the pin, and parked it. Decided that I had time and changed the oil this week.

    So I was reading other forums and saw mention of the draft control levers getting wedged on a 1066.

    So I popped the top link plate and took a look and sure enough, the draft control linkage was popped up beyond where it should be, so it was trying to lift full time. 

    Anyway, that should be that. Thanks everyone for the help. I woulda been scratching my head for quite some time without the insight. Awesome forum as always.


  2. The three point is all the way up. Will not descend, tractor on or off. No problem with this prior to the fluid change.

    I have a subsoiler on it. I had the fluid and filter because I hadn't changed it in the couple years I've owned it. Figured it was time and I had a few evenings to do it.

    I tested the remotes by plugging into my 3 pt backhoe to use as a test cylinder. 

    The draft control is forward, which is where it has been forever. I haven't touched it other than yesterday when I was fussing around trying to get stuff to work. 

    If I run the quadrant lever all the way forward the engine note changes (sounds like the engine is unloading)


  3. 6 hours ago, J-Mech said:

    That is just to bleed out the MCV pump circuit.  He states he has MCV functions, but not hitch pump functions.  This won't help him any unfortunately. 

     

     

    I agree with a new o-ring on the filter base.  However, he would likely not have MCV functions either if it was sucking air there, as both pumps pull from the same filter housing.  

    Pull the 3pt top cover off and see if any oil is running down from above.  It should be, but if there is and you have no functions, then perhaps the unloader valve is stuck open....

    Thanks for the info. Added detail the three point is currently raised, and will not go down...does that indicate anything additionally? I'll double check the filter, and then will figure out where the unloaded valve is and take a look at that.


  4. Hello all,

    Just changed the hydraulic fluid and filter on my 766. All was working fine when I did the change. MCV pump seems fine at this point as I have clutch, steering etc. However no three point or remotes. I put 20 gallons in, and the stick is showing over full. 

    Any tricks to getting the pump to pick up prime I should try? I followed the instructions for air in the lines per the manual, but didn't have any luck with that...

    Thanks,

    Greg


  5. On 1/24/2020 at 12:53 PM, IH Forever said:

    How do the lights on the blower work? That’s a good idea. I updated the 1 rear light on my 656 to LED which is much brighter but blower still blocks a lot of the light.

    Very well, I'd highly recommend it. It gets the light upfront of the snow cloud. "Night and day" difference.


  6. Got an 8' new idea blower this year. Put it on the 766. So much better than pushing snow with a loader. Added the LEDs on the blower because I end up clearing early/late and couldn't see past the cloud half the time. 

    Cleared some drifts this evening, snow was dense, and used most of the horsies the old girl has. Definitely have been getting the carbon out of the pipe this year.

    IMAG2352.jpg

    • Like 7

  7. Got it tonight. Had to lift one side, put in a shim, lift the other, shim it, etc until it finally popped loose. 

    Didn't see anything obvious on the head gasket, but my experience is limited and it was somewhat boogered up. 

    Then I rolled the head over and saw some interesting stuff going on. It looks like there was water getting into the #4 cylinder by areas of carbon that are removed. Also #3 looks like it might have something going on. This was also the cylinder that I saw water running down the inside of the cylinder. 

    So looks like the head might need to go out for an evaluation and probably some work....or maybe I'll have to look around for a high compression head...


  8. Farmall Doctor-I'll try the dowel trick and see if that will work. I've had penetrating oil on it for a month. To me it looks like I have interference between two studs and the head. Seems the most stuck on the manifold side at the back. I've had the front tires off the ground already. 


  9. Longest project ever.....so I got this head unbolted last summer, tried to lift it off, and she's stuck tight. Slight gap on one side, but the manifold side was tight down. So I pretty much left it for the winter. 

    Finally got out and started playing with it again.

    I filled the cylinders with twine and hand cranked the motor and was able to make a gap between the head and the block. I now have probably a 1/32" of daylight between the block and head.

    Now, however, the head is not wanting to come off. I lifted the front end off the concrete trying to pull it. I had a nice even lift on it. I tapped it from all directions with a rubber mallet, lifted one side, then the other, etc.

    Any thoughts on getting the head off? Seems like a few of the studs are tight to one side of the hole or the other. Should I try and remove them? I don't really want to booger them up or crack them off....

     

    Thanks! Greg.


  10. No experience with the model or motor, but it does sound like no fuel is making it to the cylinders.

     

    My trouble shooting steps would be:

    Is there a manual prime on the pump? If so, does it feel like your drawing fuel at the pump? If not, can you confirm (confirm being the important word) that fuel flow is good to the pump?

    If your confident that there is definitely good fuel flow at the pump, I guess next is, is the pump pumping? Or did mechanically something happen that it's no longer driven? You said you replaced it, with a known good?

    If the pump is pumping, and you have good fuel flow to the pump, then it's got to be between the pump and cylinder, which leaves lines and injectors?

    That would be my start at any rate.


  11. Quick update, after a few days there was some leak down in cyl 4, and I though I might have seen something in 2 also, but tough to say. 

    I also realized that there is discoloration on both sides of the head gasket joint on the newish paint. That makes me wonder if there isn't potentially a warp issue, or perhaps when the engine was rebuilt there was excessive sleeve protrusion. 

    I have the head all unbolted, just need to grab the lift and pull it off. 


  12. 3 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

    That's a wide front m ? 

    Yep. Schwartz wide front. It still has the small gas tank in place, Lines and all, which I though was neat.

    Roller drawbar and a canopy at the moment. Also came with a good condition paper fiber belt pulley I'll probably put on for looks after its back to running. Here's another shot of it. Need a good wash.IMAG1398.thumb.jpg.ea4109c51f3bb02bdbf1f087ef89d588.jpg

    • Thanks 1

  13. A potentially encouraging update:

    Went out and looked in the block and was able to see coolant on the big end of the cylinder 3 rod. Looked up and saw coolant in the #3 cylinder coming from the piston skirt. Rotated the engine by hand and was able to confirm the leak looks to be coming down the cylinder bore inside the sleeve. 

    So to me, this says there is potential this is head related, either gasket or a cracked head at cylinder 3. So next step seems to be pull off the head and see if the head is cracked or if it looks like a bad gasket. 

    Anything I'm missing?


  14. Thanks, lots of good insight and a few things to looks at.

    I bought it for under a grand knowing that it was going to need some engine work and assuming a new block could be in the future. 

    I think I'll start by repressurising after letting the crank case drip out for a day and try and look again.


  15. I have an M that was acquired last fall. The tractor was reportedly rebuilt (with fire craters) and then the timing wasn't quite ironed out and the previous owner observed a small amount of coolant in the oil. Decided to move it on. 

    Fast forward to this weekend, finally had a chance to get it moved into the work shop. I've run it for about 5 minutes total since I bought it, on/off trailer, in and out if two buildings. Zero smoke on start up or while running, however, it does have a pretty good stumble.

    Drained the oil, serious antifreeze in coolant. Total milkshake with a good cup to a pint on cracking the drain plug.

    I dropped the oil pan and put about 5# air pressure on the radiator, but was not able to ID any leak locations or seepage around the sleeves.

    I figured next step will be pulling the head and see what it looks like? Anyone have any other thoughts for what to check?

    IMAG1399.jpg

    IMAG1401.jpg

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