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Posts posted by gwoswald

  1. On 5/14/2021 at 9:26 PM, acem said:

    Does your 4cyl Cummins have  ballance shafts?

    I guess I'm not positive, but as I understand it the 3.3 is relatively well balanced in comparison to the 4bt. Maybe I'll try and test fire it on the stand and make sure it doesnt dance away.

  2. 1 hour ago, SONNY said:

    200 not gutless----got one in my 574! great little motor!

    Well, maybe they made some changes in the 5-10 years between the models, maybe the transmission differences, and maybe mines just that tired, but with loaded rears if I have a load in the bucket I can barely get moving in 4th. Also burns gas pretty quickly if I'm needing some HP (running the tiller for instance).

    Now raking hay it isn't too bad, and if I wasn't weighted I could see it being a peppier engine. 

    But it's on its last legs and I would rather have a diesel.

  3. Good morning All,

    Looking to pull in anyone's experience or thoughts so I can catch some of the details earlier on in the process. 

    I have a IH 544. It's a really nice sized around the yard tractor, has an IH 2000 loader on it and I really enjoy the tractor for the most part. Other than the fact it has the gutless c200 and the engine is getting pretty tired. I.e. I have to feather the clutch in 4th at times to keep from killing it. (Loaded tires)

    I know my value would be in just getting a new tractor, but I love projects for the sake of the project, so I want to repower this tractor. I found a rebuilt, still on the stand, cummins b3.3 locally a couple years back and thought it would make a great power plant for this tractor. It's a fully mechanical engine with an inline pump, so should be good to go.

    Just got in contact with Ed Leaman for an adaptor and flywheel. He mentioned a remote oil filter is needed so I have that on the list. 

    Not positive if I'll be able to use the stock starter, will find that out as we go.

    Looks like there should be plenty of space based on my measurements between the rails and between the bell housing and radiator

    Beyond that there will be fabrication and modifications for motor mounts, linkages, wiring updates, etc.

    How about fuel tank, any major modifications for going to diesel? Is a fuel pump going to be needed? I'm assuming gravity should be enough for this application.

    Any other major items in overlooking? 





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  4. Fixed it. 

    So as I read through the suggestions and thoughts that the draft control can stop the remotes, I got to thinking about it. Last time I used the tractor, several weeks ago, I was using the subsoilers. I hit something large and popped the shear pin, figured enough for tonight, put the hitch in full lift, replaced the pin, and parked it. Decided that I had time and changed the oil this week.

    So I was reading other forums and saw mention of the draft control levers getting wedged on a 1066.

    So I popped the top link plate and took a look and sure enough, the draft control linkage was popped up beyond where it should be, so it was trying to lift full time. 

    Anyway, that should be that. Thanks everyone for the help. I woulda been scratching my head for quite some time without the insight. Awesome forum as always.

  5. The three point is all the way up. Will not descend, tractor on or off. No problem with this prior to the fluid change.

    I have a subsoiler on it. I had the fluid and filter because I hadn't changed it in the couple years I've owned it. Figured it was time and I had a few evenings to do it.

    I tested the remotes by plugging into my 3 pt backhoe to use as a test cylinder. 

    The draft control is forward, which is where it has been forever. I haven't touched it other than yesterday when I was fussing around trying to get stuff to work. 

    If I run the quadrant lever all the way forward the engine note changes (sounds like the engine is unloading)

  6. 6 hours ago, J-Mech said:

    That is just to bleed out the MCV pump circuit.  He states he has MCV functions, but not hitch pump functions.  This won't help him any unfortunately. 



    I agree with a new o-ring on the filter base.  However, he would likely not have MCV functions either if it was sucking air there, as both pumps pull from the same filter housing.  

    Pull the 3pt top cover off and see if any oil is running down from above.  It should be, but if there is and you have no functions, then perhaps the unloader valve is stuck open....

    Thanks for the info. Added detail the three point is currently raised, and will not go down...does that indicate anything additionally? I'll double check the filter, and then will figure out where the unloaded valve is and take a look at that.

  7. Hello all,

    Just changed the hydraulic fluid and filter on my 766. All was working fine when I did the change. MCV pump seems fine at this point as I have clutch, steering etc. However no three point or remotes. I put 20 gallons in, and the stick is showing over full. 

    Any tricks to getting the pump to pick up prime I should try? I followed the instructions for air in the lines per the manual, but didn't have any luck with that...



  8. On 1/24/2020 at 12:53 PM, IH Forever said:

    How do the lights on the blower work? That’s a good idea. I updated the 1 rear light on my 656 to LED which is much brighter but blower still blocks a lot of the light.

    Very well, I'd highly recommend it. It gets the light upfront of the snow cloud. "Night and day" difference.

  9. Got an 8' new idea blower this year. Put it on the 766. So much better than pushing snow with a loader. Added the LEDs on the blower because I end up clearing early/late and couldn't see past the cloud half the time. 

    Cleared some drifts this evening, snow was dense, and used most of the horsies the old girl has. Definitely have been getting the carbon out of the pipe this year.


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