gwoswald

I'll start with this, as it was changed, and entirely possible area I made a mistake.

Mcv function seems fine and smooth.

The three point is all the way up. Will not descend, tractor on or off. No problem with this prior to the fluid change. I have a subsoiler on it. I had the fluid and filter because I hadn't changed it in the couple years I've owned it. Figured it was time and I had a few evenings to do it. I tested the remotes by plugging into my 3 pt backhoe to use as a test cylinder. The draft control is forward, which is where it has been forever. I haven't touched it other than yesterday when I was fussing around trying to get stuff to work. If I run the quadrant lever all the way forward the engine note changes (sounds like the engine is unloading)

Thanks for the info. Added detail the three point is currently raised, and will not go down...does that indicate anything additionally? I'll double check the filter, and then will figure out where the unloaded valve is and take a look at that.

Hello all, Just changed the hydraulic fluid and filter on my 766. All was working fine when I did the change. MCV pump seems fine at this point as I have clutch, steering etc. However no three point or remotes. I put 20 gallons in, and the stick is showing over full. Any tricks to getting the pump to pick up prime I should try? I followed the instructions for air in the lines per the manual, but didn't have any luck with that... Thanks, Greg

Very well, I'd highly recommend it. It gets the light upfront of the snow cloud. "Night and day" difference.

Got an 8' new idea blower this year. Put it on the 766. So much better than pushing snow with a loader. Added the LEDs on the blower because I end up clearing early/late and couldn't see past the cloud half the time. Cleared some drifts this evening, snow was dense, and used most of the horsies the old girl has. Definitely have been getting the carbon out of the pipe this year.

Got it tonight. Had to lift one side, put in a shim, lift the other, shim it, etc until it finally popped loose. Didn't see anything obvious on the head gasket, but my experience is limited and it was somewhat boogered up. Then I rolled the head over and saw some interesting stuff going on. It looks like there was water getting into the #4 cylinder by areas of carbon that are removed. Also #3 looks like it might have something going on. This was also the cylinder that I saw water running down the inside of the cylinder. So looks like the head might need to go out for an evaluation and probably some work....or maybe I'll have to look around for a high compression head...

Farmall Doctor-I'll try the dowel trick and see if that will work. I've had penetrating oil on it for a month. To me it looks like I have interference between two studs and the head. Seems the most stuck on the manifold side at the back. I've had the front tires off the ground already.

Yep, got both of those areas. Tube on back, thermostat on front. Best as I can tell, I got all head nuts off and all ancillary stuff is clear.

Here is what we have so far. The head is lifted off the block, but darned if I can wiggle it off.

Longest project ever.....so I got this head unbolted last summer, tried to lift it off, and she's stuck tight. Slight gap on one side, but the manifold side was tight down. So I pretty much left it for the winter. Finally got out and started playing with it again. I filled the cylinders with twine and hand cranked the motor and was able to make a gap between the head and the block. I now have probably a 1/32" of daylight between the block and head. Now, however, the head is not wanting to come off. I lifted the front end off the concrete trying to pull it. I had a nice even lift on it. I tapped it from all directions with a rubber mallet, lifted one side, then the other, etc. Any thoughts on getting the head off? Seems like a few of the studs are tight to one side of the hole or the other. Should I try and remove them? I don't really want to booger them up or crack them off.... Thanks! Greg.

No experience with the model or motor, but it does sound like no fuel is making it to the cylinders. My trouble shooting steps would be: Is there a manual prime on the pump? If so, does it feel like your drawing fuel at the pump? If not, can you confirm (confirm being the important word) that fuel flow is good to the pump? If your confident that there is definitely good fuel flow at the pump, I guess next is, is the pump pumping? Or did mechanically something happen that it's no longer driven? You said you replaced it, with a known good? If the pump is pumping, and you have good fuel flow to the pump, then it's got to be between the pump and cylinder, which leaves lines and injectors? That would be my start at any rate.

Quick update, after a few days there was some leak down in cyl 4, and I though I might have seen something in 2 also, but tough to say. I also realized that there is discoloration on both sides of the head gasket joint on the newish paint. That makes me wonder if there isn't potentially a warp issue, or perhaps when the engine was rebuilt there was excessive sleeve protrusion. I have the head all unbolted, just need to grab the lift and pull it off.

Yep. Schwartz wide front. It still has the small gas tank in place, Lines and all, which I though was neat. Roller drawbar and a canopy at the moment. Also came with a good condition paper fiber belt pulley I'll probably put on for looks after its back to running. Here's another shot of it. Need a good wash.