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sugarmaker

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Everything posted by sugarmaker

  1. I would go with the mechanic not the kids. Nothing against kids learning but you dont need to do this twice. Let them practice on something that doesn't have to work. Regards, Chris
  2. Dave, Thanks! Folks After spending some quality time under the TD-6, I see that that bottom pan really needs to come off at some point. It is so caked and packed with dirt that its full up to the crank shaft pulley! How heavy are those? Looks like it would need to be held up with a jack as the bolts were removed. Maybe I could pressure wash some of it out? Found a 1 inch dia stick about 6 foot long, jammed up in the right side near the pan, will have to cut that out someday. I will try the new gasket this afternoon. Its cooler today about 20 degrees F. Cheryl and I are watching Rhett our 8 month old great grandson today. Doesn't get much better than that! Regards, Chris
  3. Folks, Sometimes I don't have much patience. Even though I ordered a couple gaskets, this sediment bowl was bugging me. Now that I am a little older I decided to tackle it again. I used several long thin scraping tools to get the old gasket scraped off. I see why it did not seal. The old cork gasket was very brittle and came of in small chunks. About a hour of picking at it, I was down to the cast white metal and the brass screen, which the new gasket covers both. I traced the outline of the glass bowl on a piece of 1/8 thick cork. Cut out the O.D. and I.D. Shellac was just to hard to get up in there so I used good (gray) gasket cement applied to the top of the gasket and pushed it into place with a tool. The gasket fit tight and stuck well enough that I was able to install the glass and the bail. Forgot that with the gray sealant you are supposed to tighten to finger tight. Then let it dry and then tighten. Well, I tightened it right up. Will wait for a day and then turn on the diesel. Keep your fingers crossed:) BTW the sediment bowl gasket O.D. is just under 3 inches. I do have to get back under there to put the small cover back on. Maybe I will take a picture? Regards, Chris
  4. Dave and Kevin, Folks Thanks for the support. I was considering two other options. Neither is going to be quick or easy. 1. Was to take the sediment bowl bracket off the side of the block. Requires disconnecting the fuel lines in and out. Just not much room and it wont come out or go in from the top side. 2. Remove the rock shield to get some more wiggle room underneath? This is packed full of dirt and debris and sure could use a general cleaning under the engine. One thing is sure about the only way its going to run, is to get this back on and sealed up. I will start to check on gaskets. Just attempted to order two gaskets for this project from www.Waltstractor.com Regards, Chris
  5. Here are some pictures of fuel updates. Aux filter and new NAPA filter. I used the upper metal part from the old filter. It has a center hole that fits the bolt. Bottom end should seal on base. NAPA box. Hoping this filter will work ok? Filter base on tractor both canisters removed. Aux assembly back on. This did not want to fill up with fluid, took about 2 hours?? I think I need a new fuel pressure gage too. Any ideas on where to get these? Primary filter was same as old one. Don't use carb cleaner on these as it took the old label instructions right off! New filters in place. Cover for sediment bowl. Not much room to get at this from the top or the bottom. Not a very good picture from botto. Before. After Well I did not get over heated:) Regards, Chris
  6. Good evening, Well I felt like a project today and got into the fuel filter changes for the old TD-6. I removed the primary fuel filter and checked the replacement from NAPA. Same exact filter so no issues there. Removed the Auxiliary canister and seen that Uncle Jack had not got that filter in correct location on the bottom. The gasket was out of position and the filter was kinked. So when I opened the box from NAPA this was not the same as in the tractor. I did get some pictures (hope to load later) I used the old top cap and the new filter and used the cork gasket to seal the base. Anyway got those back in place then thought it would be good to remove the sediment bowl. Well I slid under and found the cover with two bolts. Removed that and then gently worked the thumb screw back and forth on the bail. got that free and removed the bowl. It was a mess and had 2 inches of gunk in the bottom. The small vent tube was plugged with stuff. So got the bowl and the bail cleaned up. Tried four times to reinstall this. Well I got it in place each time but it leaked like a sieve! It is not very easy to see the gasket area. I may need a new one? Any hints on getting this sediment bowl back on and leak free? I am not sure this had ever been off the tractor? Regards, Chris
  7. Very nice work bringing this tractor back to life. Thanks for posting these pictures. Regards, Chris
  8. Folks, Not much new on the TD-6. Next up is to freshen the diesel side of the fuel system. New filters to be changed out this week if weather holds. Also would like to get the sediment bowl off and cleaned. Regards, Chris
  9. Rawleigh99,Thanks for the NAPA info. Might need that! Regards, Chris
  10. Thanks to folks here (Englishcreeks thread), these are a couple links on the button head fittings and the grease application head that fits them. http://saeproducts.c...e-fittings.html and the gun head http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Regards, Chris
  11. Folks, So some talk in another TD-6 post about track lubrication got me more intrerested in checking out the fittings on my old TD-6. I found that several button heads were 7/8 nut wrench size. These were on the idler wheels. The bottom rollers had pipe plugs with a .312 inch square internal head, except for one which was 1/2 square head external pipe plug. Anyway I cleaned the dirt off them and sprayed all with blaster. All of them came loose with out a fight. I took out a couple and those were full of grease. Was happy to see that too. Just another step in learning about these. I will use the link in the other thread to find what size button heads I might need. May also check with NAPA on what they might have? But these are unusual items and I will keep my expections low:). Regards, Chris
  12. Rawleigh99 , Thanks for the link to the Wix filter selection guide. I did get the 1155 oil filter installed today and the 9 quarts of fresh oil in the crank case. Drained the final drives and added a quart of UGL 80W to each. Found that the right track was ready to come apart. Seems the pin in the master link had lost its keeper pin. Not a lot of big action on this machine. Fuel filtrers to be changed, And I need to get to the desiel sediment bowl and drain that of any water. Still feel someone might like to own it more than me?????? Regards, Chris
  13. Dennis, Thanks for the info! We have had the right side track apart when it was run off. The pin was fairly easy to get out. I will take a look at it tomorrow. I am afraid of all the other worn parts I may find, If/when I get into this portion of the project. Trying to attack the major issues to help assure that it could do some work someday again. Regards, Chris
  14. Folks, Sorry no "fancy resturant" pictures but it was Bob Evans and we both had the pot roast which was very good! Have a small vent line off the carb to fix today. Not a big thing, just another small broken part that needs fixed. A big project would be to get the track adjusters working again. Any suggestions? It looks like the threaded shafts are not in good shape. Would I need to take the track apart to allow the front idle come forward and then remove the adjuster? Regards, Chris
  15. Folks, Picked up the filters at NAPA. Guess we were not in sync? Got the wrong filters:( I called them with theIH oil filter number and they will have it in by Tuesday morning. 1155 is the correct oil filter number. Probably correct NAPA filter numbers on here some where? BTW. Cheryl was wondering about the yard being tore up for some reason. We had to go out for a fancy dinner tonight:) Regards, Chris
  16. Folks, I was able to do a little maintenance on the TD-6 today. I drained the transmission, about 3 gallons of the liqud peanutbutter stuff! Added 4 gallons of kerosene and drove it up and down the drive for 20 minutes in all gears. Pulled the dozer up on some 6 x 6 blocks an drained the kerosene. Then added 16 quarts of NAPA 80-90 gear lube in the tranny. While the engine was warm I was able to get the drain plug open for the engine oil pan and drained that too. Have to check at NAPA for the engine oil filter. Then get some 10W20 oil for it. Any recommendations on oil? I did open the inspection holes on the final drives. Neither had oil to that level. So I will try to find the drain plug and get those drained and refilled with 2 pints of the gear oil in each one. Regards, Chris
  17. I agree that the information about the fancy dinners is right on the money! Do you really think I could get Cheryl to watch for those grease fittings as they spin around on the steering clutches? I will let youy know haow that works out for me:)! Weather is nice, I just cant get to the tractor right now! Regards, Chris
  18. John, and Kevin, Thanks for ths information on the TD-6 items. I will let you know how I make out. Regards, Chris
  19. Thanks Folks! Het you lost me on something on rreversing the transmission switch?? I will move the peanut butter removal to the top of the list. I think I can get to this plug pretty easily. I believe it is near the back between the two inspection covers. I just played with. Page 33 of the preventive maintenance section of the book. Book or something said drain it, and then fill to normal level with kerosene, run it around and then drain and fill with UGL Universal Gear Lube SAE 80. AND I should check the sprocket drive lube also while I am under there! Needs same lube in those. Another observation: I have water coming out of the starter band/cover when I crank it over. That must have been from over zelous power washing? I think I know what your going to tell me to do but is that any alternative than taking it off? As usual more questions than anwsers:) Thanks guys! Regards, Chris
  20. M Diesel, Now in hind site I can see you are right on! My foot was comming to a stop on the dash and the bands were not even close. I now believe that the steering clutches may be Ok if worked for a while. I mean I was spinning both tracks when I pushed that stump over. Glad I listened to you guys about the adjustments. Grungy? I wouldn't ask anyone else to crawl under one of these and take those inspection covers off. First when I loosened the bolts about a pint of water came out of each. Plus the grease and gunk up inside there! Grungy is not close! Been studying the lubricatation info today. I have the bucket that was with the dozer for certain locations. Looks like UGL goes in that. I have to dig it out and look at the bucket. I have not greased this machine yet and its time! I assume all the other fitings are std zerks? If I ever get to the electricals. Was considering changing the generator to a alternator and then changed to negitive ground? Any issues? Regards, Chris
  21. Chris, Very nice pictures! Thanks for posting. I had the chance to mow grass at our local tractor show grounds this summer with one of these and a Woods 5 foot belly mower. Nice little tractors that run well and drove good! You have done a lot of work on the tractor! It will make a nice addition to the family. Looks a lot like the things I bring home. You did good on the initial price also. Regards, Chris
  22. Folks, Well I know just a little more about brakes on a antique dozer. I have a operators manual and a parts book with pictures for the old dozer. Both books are grease stained and well worn, but they have the good info on taking care of one of these machines. The brakes: As a reminder this machine has a ATECO loader frame that sticks up right where you get in the cockpit. Most of the brake work is then done by standing on the track frame and or the tracks and leaning down into the area that needs attention. Brake acess hole in floor board. Just big enough to get one hand in. View from leaning over into the cockpit. First adjustment is to move this pin in till it has the shoe (surprising there was still a good portion there) within 1/64 inch from the drum. So I removed this pin and nut. Got them freed up in the shop. applied never seize. I found a couple springs and proceeded to fight those into position for the next two hours. Spring installed Now the bottom under the belly of the beast. Access cover on left and right. Shot of lower rollers while I was under there:) Lower inspection cover clean enough to be able to handle and put back on. The lower adjustment: Loosen lock nut above spring and then screw in bolt to tighten the bands against the drum. Again bring band to within 1/64 of drum! These bands had not been adjusted in several days. Like maybe 25 years??? So there was about a 1/4 inch of clearance between the drum and the band. Therefor saving the band! Yea it was not pretty in there! Also adjusted the brake pedals out as far as possible for my stretched 6-2 frame. We now had all kinds of brake action! Fired her up and what a night and day difference. The brakes allow you to spin on a dime! And I could steer by pulling back the steering levers and applying just a little brake on same side. Now I can start to get the feel how this machine is supposed to work! I took that tree root ball back to the woods and moved some boulders I dug out near the old tree. Even felt foxy and had the old girl in 3 gear. I am going to adjust the steering clutch handles again and allow them to go forward more. I dont have room to pull them back past my legs! Just too close. Now that I see they actually work and the steering bands are not junk, I think I can live with them further ahead. They move maybe 16 inches of travel. I could actually steer to the left without using the brake. Maybe I have that brake too tight? Or maybe the right steering lever just needs tightend up a little more? Anyway, much improved and I do appreciate all the help and support from folks on RED POWER! Pulled the dip stick in the trans. Good news it had something in there that was oily but looked more like peanutbutter? Put that on the list. I was also able to engage the starter from in the cockpit, so the clean up and lube of the likkages helped. And will be safer. Powerwashed the mud off tracks and track frame. Should have parked it on some planks for the winter. Thanks for taking a look. Regards, Chris
  23. Folks, I got into the left brake adjustment tonight. The pedal seemed to go to rock solid to the floor. I took the upper inspection cover off again. Per the book I freed up the front pin adjuster to bring it close to the outside of the brake shoe. 1/64 clearance between the pad and the drum. Well that was not going to be easy to measure so we made it reasonably close. (I did find that the small return spring at the front adjustment pin was missing. I do not have one so add that to the list. It holds the brake shoe away from the drum a little.) Then I started the tractor and backed it up on some blocks. (had trouble starting it on gas?) This was to get better access to the lower access covers. Took the left one off, found a pint of water and about 1 inch of dirt and oil/ grease. Dug that stuff out and loosened the lock nut and then tightened up the brake shoe to 1/64 clearance at that point. Again a good guestimate. No room to get anything in there to measure. The brake drum had some score marks and had a lot of grease/oil. Tightening this brake band as recommended made the left foot brake have some peda/l clearance from the floor. So that is better than it was. I took the right cover off and will attempt to adjust that one tomorrow. Maybe this will help steer the old girl. We will see. I hope to get some more mud on the tracks and move the root ball that old tree I pushed over. I will try to take some pictures. But really looking up into that inspection port at the brakes was not for the timid:) Was really pretty nasty! I dont think it had been opened in maybe 20 years or more! Regards, Chris
  24. Kevin,/ IH Folks I agree with checking all the connections and joints and adjustments first too. I do need to do some lubing too! I must say that it steers better than it did. And I really think If I could get the left brake adjusted so it would stop the tractor, she would pivot good to the left also. My Uncle was a pretty good mechanic and my guess is he may have changed the steering clutches at least once in 60 years? Think I will look at those brakes a little more. I did check the opposite side of the engine for the mechinisim of the gas throttle but couldnt run the lever and watch it at the same time. Need longer arms:) Did apply some PB Blaster to the joints. Still does not lock over center. More to do on that or just live with it. Regards, Chris
  25. Kevin, Thanks! By oppositre side I assume you mean oppisite side of engine? I will take a look at that. There is a lot going on in that gas to diesel change over system:) Back on the steering clutches? Short of taking these out is there a good way to evaluate or improve the function? I know each unit is different. Guess I just need to understand the function and how they work better. So when I pull back on the left lever, it compresses a big coil spring that opens all clutch pack? Is that correct? Guess I was wondering if there is rust in there that might break loose if used? I Read where appling load and or soaking the steering clutch pack in kerosene might help. Being new to these machines I have a lot of questions. Thanks for all the help! I also need to look at adjusting the brakes. Oh if I did use kerosene on the sterring clutches wouldnt that damage the brake pads? Regards, Chris
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