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Everything posted by sugarmaker

  1. A link belt might work fine?Thanks for the suggestion! I will sure keep that in mind if this one fails. It doesn't look like a easy task to change one. Now to get the wiring diagram and see how I can wire this alternator up to function. Regards, Chris
  2. Folks, These pictures show just how rough and crusty the old TD6 is! There is mud and dirt packed in every area! Here is the old generator during removal. Band cover was missing and it had a lot of dirt and mud in there. Amazing that it did work before I power washed it! old gen bracket (a piece of art) new alternator in general location for fit up. new lower alternator bracket. using same bolt holes to attach. A second leg was added to support the alternator base. Regards, Chris
  3. Folks, I have fabricated a new base bracket for the alternator. Removed the old cast generator bracket, and am going to use the same two mounting holes for the new bracket. The top adjusting bar had to be straightened to fit the new alternator. The trial fit up looks good. I really like the size of this smaller unit! While in there I was going to change the belt running the new alternator but Whoa! Way too many things need to be taken apart to get that small belt out! Anybody ever change one of them? Looks like you would have to pull the radiator ???? I will try to post some pictures tomorrow, since it is going to rain all day. And we will be watching the Great grandson. Regards, Chris
  4. Stageone, I hope not! That would be a several year project. I would like to get it functioning better so if we did need it to do some work it would be ready. Ian, Humm not sure the shipping cost from Oz. What do you want for it? I might be interested. If you wouldn't mind please check shipping cost to zip code 16401 in US. My alternator guy is going to try to find a new one or we may try to rework this old one??? Off to look a possible bracket designs for the small 12180 SE 35 amp alternator. And then think about the wiring needed to make it function. Regards, Chris
  5. Folks, Took the TD6 starter and switch to Martins in Cambridge Springs. They will advise the cost of parts and clean and repair. Also took the generator for viewing. Ended up bringing home a single pole alternator in a smaller size (more expensive unit). It is about the same diameter as the old generator. but about half as long. Will get some pictures as I look at mounting options for the new alternator. Also need to review how to wire up a single wire alternator in the system. Just seemed like the right thing to do if this machine is going to be around for a while longer. Regards, Chris
  6. Coffeecreek, Thanks! I may try Martins. Have not used them, but have seen their name on a lot of electrical items like starters generators and electric motors. Have had pretty good luck in Erie. Atkins is out of business.Almost thought of taking it apart myself? The starter did function. For sure needs a good cleaning and maybe new brushes? And the switch has seen better days. Just talked to Martins in Cambridge Springs and will take the starter and switch down to him. He checked on the switch cost, could be a pricey item? But from a safety issue, I do need to get this functioning so I can start it from the cockpit. Here are some pictures: bottom starter bolt is a bugger, just not much room removed the fuel lines going past the starter fuel lines and valve in front of the starter had to be removed too. cut this brace off of the radiator shield starter is out switch ring gear looked pretty good Regards, Chris
  7. Gary, folks Well I was sleeping in the tree stand today and decided I needed to come home and work on the TD6 starter. I have a bunch of pictures. (will have to get them posted). Took out the three bolts for the starter. That is not a easy task! Had to remove the two fuel lines. Then a vertical fuel line and a valve body. Then cut out the angular brace from the frame to the radiator support. This brace was not in good shape anyway and was bent in towards the engine. The starter is now out. The switch on top is not in good shape, the internal contact is worn very bad and that's why it did not start easy. The starter is a model number 1108940. I have searched a little but have not found a switch yet. I have a local shop in Erie that I may take the starter to and have them go through it. What do you think? I could take it apart myself. There was a lot of dirt built up under the cover band. cleaned off the caked mud grease and oil. Any suggestions appreciated. (not sure how I will get that bottom bolt back in the starter!:)) Regards, Chris
  8. Folks, The TD6 is tarped for the winter unless I get a wild hair and work on the starter? Weather was warm here today. Regards, Chris
  9. Mike, Thanks for both pictures! I will try to check this out tomorrow. I have not checked the friction areas, will try to find them. Weather is supposed to be better. I have adjusted the starter linkage once up a time. I think the problem may be inside the switch contact? Regards, Chris
  10. Folks, Some static pictures of the TD6. Worked on this corner of the hood which was crumpled! Just setting around. Drove it up on some 6 x 6's for the winter. Just about time to tarp it again. Track slack I did stick a lawn mower seat in there to see if it would work for next event. I placed a block of wood in each of the foot wells. Worked better for me. I cant get my big clodhoppers in and or out of those areas. Just resting. Regards, Chris
  11. Kevin, M Diesel, Folks Thanks for the tips and encouragement too. I will try to remember to turn on a high spot. Makes perfect sense from the recliner, harder to remember from the rough seat of a shaking and clackingTD6!:) Switch over: Maybe I am not warming the engine up enough on gas? Guess I will have to try. But when I release the gas lever, the engine will start to die, like maybe 3-4 seconds to make the switch, does that sound right? I also really need to figure out what is wrong with my gas lever linkage and why it wont snap over center and stay locked? Mine looks likes the linkage has been welded for some reason??? Any good pictures out there? Anyone else have this problem? Then I need to fix the starter switch ( wont make contact except with a three foot cheater bar forcing it) and mechanism so it works from the cockpit. I don't really like starting this with out being at the controls. I do have some pictures from today, like everything else just have to get the ambition to go down load them and post. Regards, Chris
  12. Folks, I did accomplish a little on the TD6. Sorry no pictures:( Charged the battery, filled the small gas tank with fuel, opened the diesel fuel shut off and cranked the starter over. Nothing! checked the carb drain port for gas. Dry. I did this twice and then remembered that you have to pull down the gas lever to get gas to the carb! That helped, next time I cranked it she fired right up. If you remember I have to do the starting dance with this machine. Standing out near the starter using a cheater bar to engage the starter switch! While reaching though into the cockpit to hold the gas lever down. Once it warmed up on gas I then reach over the loader arms and bring the diesel lever forward to add some fuel, while letting the gas lever up. She balked a couple times and then caught on diesel. I was glad I got it running and decided to move it and check the steering clutches. And glad I did as many have said here they need to be used every few months or may get froze up and not release. We sure enough the Right steering would not work for a few minutes, Finally got it broke loose! I drove back to the slab pile an pushed some wood around. On the trip I used both the steering clutches, and brakes to make sure they worked! I did try to pull back both clutches and YES the tractor stopped! I slowly would let them forward to see when they engaged and it is about 4-6 inches from the complete free position. So I guess there is not much use pulling them back any more than 6 inches or so, to get the clutch disengaged. Tapping the brake is the key to getting it to turn! Pulled it back up onto some 6 x 6 blocks and proceeded to shut it down. When I moved the diesel lever to off and the gas lever to on it stalled. Got off and tried to start it but it would not fire on gas. Went around to set the choke and found that the petcock on the bottom of the carb had fallen out and luckily was captured in the little funnel under the carb! Put that back in and she fired right up on gas. Made the switch back and forth to diesel/ gas several times and let it cool down on gas. All In all another successful TD6 adventure. I also brought the hood into the shop and tried to straighten the left rear corner of the hood, which had been crushed and folded over. Some of the metal could not be saved, but most of it is back looking more correct Regards, Chris
  13. Folks, Maybe will at least do a walk around the old TD6 and see if I can get some ambition to do something on it? Maybe charge the battery and see if it would start? Too many projects not enough time. This one needs less talk and more action! Hope things are good in Red Land! Regards, Chris
  14. Folks, Just checking in. No progress on the old TD6. Wait a minute its the same age as me! The machine hasn't moved since this spring. Time to get it fired up again just to keep things moving and steering. Next year the local tractor show has international as the feature. Humm maybe the TD6 should go too? Regards, Chris
  15. Folks, as normal tghe TD6 gets pushed aside for another more pressing issue! The clean up and painting of a Massey 8hp lawn tractor for up coming tractor show. Great suggestions fo the removal of the track pins. The right track has a pin held in with a small cross pin. I could not feel one of the cross pins on the left side. Hope to get a little work done on this machine this summer. I did get a new shift boot for the gear shifter. Any one have a picture of how their's is installed? Regards, Chris
  16. Ok, your never planning to push dirt and mud with this are you?? Sure is looking pretty! Mine is in such sad shape. Every nut and bolt on the frame would be a fight! Regards, Chris
  17. Todd, Hey you found me! Too many other projects to work on! This TD6 takes a back burner to every thing till a stump needs to be rooted out then its the GO TO machine! Tourch and a ten pound hammer come to mind as the tools of choice for working on these dirt movers! I am still thinking of the moves to make on this old dozer. Dont give up on me I may get to it yet! Regards, Chris
  18. Thanks for the pictures! Sure glad those nuts and bolts are coming loose for you. Mine don't look good! I dread tackaling dis assembly! Yea one heck of a project that you have! I am sure you will get the frame apart. I need to find the oil bath cup for mine. If anyone has one let me know? BTW, Thanks for protecting us! Regards, Chris
  19. The electrolysis process might work for the tracks? You would have to build the tank for either type of cleaning. You could have electrodes is different locations to get the best "line of sight" cleaning. I did find the master link track pin on the left track. It was set in or out about a 1/16 of a inch. and I can feel the slots on the inside towards the tractor. I see someone mentioned getting this pin out when the track is off and on the ground on its side? Seems logical but easier said than done with no hoist at this time. Regards, Chris
  20. Wow! Lots of progress on the "6"! So did you loosen the track adjusters and remove the track? How the heck did you handle the heavy track? Do you have a crane/hoist? I think your tractor is in much better shape than mine! Your radiator looks very good with some fresh paint. I will be following your work on the track rollers closely. Mine needs a lot of attention! Thanks for taking the time to post these pictures. I may be referring to them a lot! Did you have this tractor running and moving and steering prior to tear down? Regards, Chris
  21. Tanker, Good luck on these track adjuster work. I need to do the same thing on mine. Doesn't look like they have been moved in 20 years. Very rusty. I think If I was doing it I would try the turning the big screw while the part was hot. Not really looking forward to this project. Will have to start it when I am in the right mood!:) Take some pictures for us too. Regards, Chris
  22. Did our format change over night?? I may have to look at the evaporrust product too! Thanks! It sure looks amazing and safe. I added some new hand grips to the control levers for the boom and bucket. Whooo Weeeeee! Also replaced that missing spring for the return of the right steering lever. I need a new gear shift boot too. I see Steiner has one that looks like it might be the one.$20. #IHS2480 Regards, Chris
  23. MDiesel, What part will I need the crane for? Good ideas of extending the threaded rod with a spacer of some type. What is the large piece of iron you mention? I need to get the book out and look at the pieces that make this adjuster assembly again. Your not giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling on these adjusters! Regards, Chris
  24. Thanks Guys, I was very pleased with the work I got done! As far as I know it is all original fuel system. I believe that loader system was made in California. Thanks for the info on the starter bolts too. Looks like the fuel lines may have to come off to get the starter out. I have a good starter/generator repair shop in Erie on Parade street. On the turning handle draw distance, I have not figured out how far they need to be pulled to get results.But was thinking the same thing as you mentioned. Thanks for the insight. I will try that next time. Do I need to split the tracks to repair the track adjusters? Dreading that job. But may dive into it at some point. The way I work, I could spend a month off and on working on those.Still haven't found the repair link pin on the left side? Do I just pick one and start working on it? It may be there, just not obvious yet. Regards, Chris
  25. That engine really turned out nice too! Thanks for posting the pictures as you progress. Regards, Chris
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