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sugarmaker

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Everything posted by sugarmaker

  1. Folks, Happy Thanksgiving! About all I have done to the old TD6 is squirt blaster on the track adjusters. Looks like one side has a broken casting where the lock bolt goes through. Regards, Chris
  2. Tanker, Nice documentation on the roller work . Good info on the NAPA numbers too! I don't have a clue on the thrust washer availability. But this helps me understand a little more about these. Are the thrust washers thick? Maybe they could be cut out of some brass material? Plasma cut or CNC????? Mcmaster Carr might have the stock?? Regards, Chris
  3. Good afternoon, I was browsing the net for TD6 pictures and did not see another with the ATECO loader system? Not sure if there are survivors with this bucket system out there? Also I was looking through my manual and did find a picture of the long spring location behind where the Generator was. Not sure where the small spring goes. If any one has details of these it might help me solve why the gas handle does not stay in down "gas" position? Also studying the track removal procedures for a possible project next May? Our weather has gone from 75 degrees to cold and blowing snow. Regards, Chris
  4. Wow you do nice custom work! Thanks for posting all the pictures! Regards, Chris
  5. Folks, I have been wanting to take a picture of this picture for a while. Here is a advertising photo of the TD-6 that I have. I don't remember Uncle Jack having the scarfier system. It is a sepia colored picture. The real thing. Regards, Chris
  6. Red power folks, Couple shots of the mods to the starting lever: switch replaced, The temp gage is not functioning. Any suggestions as to which IH temp gage and or block insert/wire will work? I did spray some PB blaster on the track adjusters for some future work. Regards, Chris
  7. Folks, The starting handle/ system has bugged me. i needed to come up with a different lever to allow the starter switch to be engaged easier and with more reliability. So I applied some heat to the "T" shaped handle. Then it turned off the fine threaded shaft. I found a chrome plated, solid brass, handle which came from a late 40's Chris Craft boat that was Cheryl's dad's. It was the forward and reverse shift lever. Cut it shorter (now about 8 inches long), bent it to clear the dash and drilled a hole in it to fit over the starter rod. Re installed the T handle. Pretty crude! But it sure helped start up the old TD6! Ran it on gas for several minutes then it switched easily to diesel. Switch back to gas worked good too. Will try to get a picture loaded. I did not look for the springs on the carb side which are supposed to hold the gas lever in the down position. If anyone has pictures of them it would help! Regards, Chris
  8. Folks, Dave, Stageone, I couldn't take the mud covered under carriage and power washed most of the mud off. I also power washed in around the front of the engine where the dirt/ grease was hiding some of the lower crank pulley! This probably had never been cleaned out while it was a working tractor. The protective lower pan helped hold this dirt packed up around the oil pan. I would love to get enough snow to "have to" get the dozer out to clear the drive! So, Yes I did not want it to be froze up. Parked it on some 6 x 6 timbers too. Should be ready for that blizzard! Regards, Chris
  9. Tanker, Congratulations on the new addition to the family! This is a area of the tractor that I have not got into yet. Thanks for the pictures. Be safe, keeping us safe! Regards, Chris
  10. Folks, Some other TD6 relate pictures: Digging out a old tree stump in the yard. It has to earn its keep a little! Heading back across the end of the field with a load of roots and dirt. Catching our breath back at the wood lot. on the move We have mud: Regards, Chris
  11. Stageone, Don't feel too bad, I have never been toQeensland Toowoomba either. Bet it is about the same distance both ways too!:) If you get over here you are welcome to stop in. I am 30 miles south west of Erie Pennsylvania. (north west corner of the state) I was thinking the same thing on the burrs in the tranny. It will go in gear, but sometimes doesn't want to come out smooth. Shifting from first to reverse and back is smooth as silk. These may also have been the most used gears, when Uncle Jack was earning a living with it.? I dont think it will be getting new Cat chain!:) But thanks for the info. Dang, I bet that's not a cheap date? I think the chain and rear sprockets are in pretty decent shape on mine. Maybe were changed 30 years ago? But the front of the rails and the adjusters are not good. So now after you have run your TD6 for a while what are your words of wisdom? Do you haul yours to different places? We are having a big International show next July at out local tractor club. I am thinking of maybe taking the TD6. Nice fall day here! Need to get out and do something! Regards, Chris
  12. stageone, Your kidding right?! It does needs some track work, but you set the bar way to high for me with your interpillar project. I don't need it to do much work around here.Its just another toy to monkey with I guess. I am getting much more used to the controls and usability of the little dozer. But the first time I get it in a tough spot and run the track off I am going to have a problem. The area that really needs attention next is the track frame wear issue and the track adjusters. That looks like a summer project to me. And is need to be much closer to the shop for the air and torch and welder. I think the torch and the angle grinder are your friends on one of these machines. Worried about the tranny sticking in 3rd and 4th gear too. Any idea what is worn to cause that? Would pulling the top cover off allow me to figure what is worn? I am scared!:) This was rode hard and put away wet many times! Regards, Chris
  13. Gary. folks, Yes I used the old key switch first go round and had the alt hooked to the same terminal as the ignition. new switch worked much better with the Alt hooked on the Acc post. I thought that it was recommended to shut down on gas? Maybe I am confused? The additional revs seems to work better for switching over to gas. I will check on the spring on the carb side. Ok I see two springs a long one item 14, and a short one item 37. These are shown on page 66 in the IH TD6 parts catalog. I will have to look at the tractor for both springs on the carb side. If any one has a picture of those on the tractor it might help too. Regards, Chris
  14. Folks, Couldn't take it. Had to take a break from setting in a deer stand, and power wash the TD6. Track was full of mud and I also got in around the front of the engine which was packed with dirt and debris.I got the big chunks off and got soaked in the process! Then started her up to make sure the systems worked. And they did. I was thinking about how I typically transfer the engine back to gas mode. I generally idle the diesel way down and then pull the gas lever back at low rpms. Lots of times it stalls. So this time, I tried keeping the revs of the diesel up and pulling the gas lever back quickly. That seemed to work much better at higher rpm. It took right off on gas. Then I made sure that the diesel lever was all the way back. Let it cool down on gas then fliped off the key and it shut right down. To do: -I still want to fab a new handle extension for the starting handle to get more leverage. -Also someone mentioned about the friction dics not working may be why the gas handle does not stay in down position? Anyone take those apart? And if you have what is the fix?? Is there a adjustment nut in there? Regards, Chris
  15. Folks, Well, my pictures are always running late. I installed the new switch. The old one had to be removed with brute force, sorry thought I could save it? NOT! I fired up the TD6 All systems seemed to function OK. Shifter is sticking in third gear Have to jocky the clutch to get it out. Anyway I removed a stump from the yard, cleaned up some burn debris from fires all summer. Made three trips back to the woods. I will post some pictures when I get them downloaded. Shut down worked OK except it did not catch when going back to gas, had to start it right back up on gas for cool down. Also it wanted to diesel a little (couple coughs) after shut down (switch was turned off). Seat worked good I don't miss the crate at all. Steering responded both right and left with out brakes and spun around when the brakes were used. Any day you don't run off a track is a good day! I still don't have room for my left knee trying to work the hand clutch and attempt a turn to the left using the brake at the same time! Regards, Chris
  16. Folks, I promised some pictures. Please keep in mind this is not a restoration project. It is a fix improve and maintain project! The machine is still dirty, grimy, rusty, crusty, busted, leaking, and worn! This is an attempt to show some of the moves to get the old TD6 with a improved starting and charging system. battery cable saved because I am cheap, Stripped and slid into a piece of heater hose. back of dash and old key switch New NAPA volt meter installed where ammeter was. the alternator in place, currently hooked up as a single wire unit (maybe more on that later) the adapted seat, hey is better than the crate that was in there! added bonus is that it tips forward to reviel the battery and maybe keep it dry too. new key switch will be installed when it stops raining. This one functions as it should. with the alt hooked to the Acc post. Here is the wiring diagram as of today. It may change if I have any battery draining issues. Regards, Chris
  17. Gary, Folks, Moving forward very slowly! First tell me about that manifold switch and the lack of need for it? Doesn't it shut off the power to the coil when you switch to diesel? I have heard that battery drain when using these as one wire issue from another electrician. How can it drain the battery if the key switch is off? Just asking? I am surely not very up on the basic electrical systems. A battery disconnect sounds like a pretty good idea too! So I wired it up as one wire alt. Used the old IH key switch which has only two posts. Alt wire coming back to key was on same terminal as the ign wire. This started the tractor OK but when I went to shut down the tractor would not shut off with the key. Stalled it to stop engine. Maybe alt was still providing power even when switch was off? Installed a new key switch with Accessories post and put the Alt wire on that. Engine started and shut down as it is supposed to with key switch. Installed a new volt meter also. Doesnt't look like I ruined it or the alternator yet. Also removing the majority of the old wiring and running new wires as needed. Wiring for lights will come later. Don't plan on much night work in this machines future! Another question. I am still having issues using the pull starting handle. It just does not seem to have enough leverage to get the starter switch to engage/work. Anyone solve this easily? I was thinking of adding some additional lever arm thing. If I really force it (pull back with a pry) it will work. Maybe I am just a wuss?:) Regards, Chris
  18. Well folks, I did get the temporary seat installed. Had Rhett (great grandson) checking it out today! Also gerry rigged the positive battery cable to the starter. Re covered the heavy wire with 5/8 I.D heater hose!:) Picked up some electrical components for the alternator conversion at NAPA. Called Martin starter shop and found out this little Denso alt is only one wire, the two terminals on the side do not work! So I dont have to worry about those. They assured me that I just need to get it hooked into the battery circuit and it will work even at low RPMs. I am going to replace the ammeter with a volt meter. Hope to use the two pole switch in the dash now. I like that little cover over the switch. Will get some pictures and post the final wiring diagram when I get this going. As I write this I think of the work Stageone has done in all areas on the Interpillar! My work on the TD6 is just cobbling something together to get it to function a little better. Thanks for checking in on me! Regards, Chris
  19. Folks, Still debating the moves on the electrical. I just took out the old rust battery box today (well what is left of it.) and have the battery setting on a board with a bungie cord around it to the tank bracket. Way better than it was, even if a little crude. The cable from the positive side to the starter has the covering gone in several places. This needs to be fixed/ replaced before I go much farther. NAPA may have what I need. I have a friend on another forum that is trying to help me with the wiring. Custom wiring is not one of my strengths!:) Just realized that the alternator I got has a receptacle for a plug in the side. Which would make it like the alternators I put on the Allis WD's. So I may need to get a new key switch and a volt meter and a diode for the exciter wire, and revise my diagram. So today I did not make much progress. I have switched gears a little and am fabing a seat support. Pictures later. Regards, Chris
  20. Ian, Mine is a 52 also. The gear that I think your talking about is the pivot point for the lever to move the starter drive gear into the flywheel and also pushes on the starter switch. Regards, Chris
  21. Folks, Tried to load a PDF of sketch proposed wiring diagram. Had to take a photo. Tell me what is not correct please. I would like to get it right the first time. I am going to take out the old wiring harness which is in pretty bad shape and put in new wires. So this in my first sketch of how I think the custom wiring circuit should look. I plan to set it up with NEG ground. so the coil wires needed switched from before and battery terminals will be switched. Just wasn't sure on the charging portion of the circuit? starter back in tractor Alternator and support bracket. Regards, Chris
  22. Anyone willing to walk me through the electrical swap over ? I am not the best at electrical and could use a hand probably. Alternator is mounted Starter is in place. I am going to change this to negative ground system I have changed the wire from the coil negative side to the distributor. I have replaced the wire from the outside contact on the manifold to the + side of the coil. The switch has two leads coming off it. I assume one is the ignition (turn to right) and the other one is the battery. I want to wire in the ampmeter too. Regards, Chris
  23. Ian, Thanks! The one you have sounds like the smaller version that I have seen on the Allis-Chalmers starters. I will tests this rebuilt switch and see how it holds up. Regards, Chris
  24. Folks, At this time I am going to use the old alternator belt that is on the TD6. I picked up the starter from the shop this afternoon. They rebuilt the switch. It was mounted so I didnt remove it and see what they did? The parts were not very expensive. Most of the cost was labor. Chased the threads where the three mounting bolts go in to the bell housing. This made it much easier to install the bolts. Starter is in place. Hooked up the fuel lines. Put the alternator in position with belt on, so I could start the dozer. It started better on gas then it had.Still spins over rather slow, which is normal for these machines. Was able to start it from the cockpit too. Had to bleed the injectors. Did the switch to diesel and back to gas several times. Shut it down and started it three or four times. I had to adjust the contact screw on the switch so that the starter control functioned in the cockpit. Seems like its going to be a good improvement. Now to review the alternator wiring required. Regards, Chris
  25. Coffeecreek, I like to over build too. Yes I welded another ear (tab) on for the other side of the alternator base. Seems like it will be sturdy. Picked up a 10 mm bolt/nut, for the base pivot point and a 8 mm cap screw for the adjuster. I haven't looked at the book. but what is the procedure for putting on a conventional belt? Does the big belt pulley nut have to be loosened to get the big water pump belt off the crank pulley? Not sure why my pictures are not showing?? Ok checked photobucket and they are down for maintenance. Sounds like my dozer! Hope there not trying to change the alternator belt on the internet! Regards, Chris
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