sugarmaker

Thanks to folks here (Englishcreeks thread), these are a couple links on the button head fittings and the grease application head that fits them. http://saeproducts.c...e-fittings.html and the gun head http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Regards, Chris

Folks, So some talk in another TD-6 post about track lubrication got me more intrerested in checking out the fittings on my old TD-6. I found that several button heads were 7/8 nut wrench size. These were on the idler wheels. The bottom rollers had pipe plugs with a .312 inch square internal head, except for one which was 1/2 square head external pipe plug. Anyway I cleaned the dirt off them and sprayed all with blaster. All of them came loose with out a fight. I took out a couple and those were full of grease. Was happy to see that too. Just another step in learning about these. I will use the link in the other thread to find what size button heads I might need. May also check with NAPA on what they might have? But these are unusual items and I will keep my expections low:). Regards, Chris

Rawleigh99 , Thanks for the link to the Wix filter selection guide. I did get the 1155 oil filter installed today and the 9 quarts of fresh oil in the crank case. Drained the final drives and added a quart of UGL 80W to each. Found that the right track was ready to come apart. Seems the pin in the master link had lost its keeper pin. Not a lot of big action on this machine. Fuel filtrers to be changed, And I need to get to the desiel sediment bowl and drain that of any water. Still feel someone might like to own it more than me?????? Regards, Chris

Dennis, Thanks for the info! We have had the right side track apart when it was run off. The pin was fairly easy to get out. I will take a look at it tomorrow. I am afraid of all the other worn parts I may find, If/when I get into this portion of the project. Trying to attack the major issues to help assure that it could do some work someday again. Regards, Chris

Folks, Sorry no "fancy resturant" pictures but it was Bob Evans and we both had the pot roast which was very good! Have a small vent line off the carb to fix today. Not a big thing, just another small broken part that needs fixed. A big project would be to get the track adjusters working again. Any suggestions? It looks like the threaded shafts are not in good shape. Would I need to take the track apart to allow the front idle come forward and then remove the adjuster? Regards, Chris

Folks, Picked up the filters at NAPA. Guess we were not in sync? Got the wrong filters:( I called them with theIH oil filter number and they will have it in by Tuesday morning. 1155 is the correct oil filter number. Probably correct NAPA filter numbers on here some where? BTW. Cheryl was wondering about the yard being tore up for some reason. We had to go out for a fancy dinner tonight:) Regards, Chris

Folks, I was able to do a little maintenance on the TD-6 today. I drained the transmission, about 3 gallons of the liqud peanutbutter stuff! Added 4 gallons of kerosene and drove it up and down the drive for 20 minutes in all gears. Pulled the dozer up on some 6 x 6 blocks an drained the kerosene. Then added 16 quarts of NAPA 80-90 gear lube in the tranny. While the engine was warm I was able to get the drain plug open for the engine oil pan and drained that too. Have to check at NAPA for the engine oil filter. Then get some 10W20 oil for it. Any recommendations on oil? I did open the inspection holes on the final drives. Neither had oil to that level. So I will try to find the drain plug and get those drained and refilled with 2 pints of the gear oil in each one. Regards, Chris

I agree that the information about the fancy dinners is right on the money! Do you really think I could get Cheryl to watch for those grease fittings as they spin around on the steering clutches? I will let youy know haow that works out for me:)! Weather is nice, I just cant get to the tractor right now! Regards, Chris

John, and Kevin, Thanks for ths information on the TD-6 items. I will let you know how I make out. Regards, Chris

Thanks Folks! Het you lost me on something on rreversing the transmission switch?? I will move the peanut butter removal to the top of the list. I think I can get to this plug pretty easily. I believe it is near the back between the two inspection covers. I just played with. Page 33 of the preventive maintenance section of the book. Book or something said drain it, and then fill to normal level with kerosene, run it around and then drain and fill with UGL Universal Gear Lube SAE 80. AND I should check the sprocket drive lube also while I am under there! Needs same lube in those. Another observation: I have water coming out of the starter band/cover when I crank it over. That must have been from over zelous power washing? I think I know what your going to tell me to do but is that any alternative than taking it off? As usual more questions than anwsers:) Thanks guys! Regards, Chris

M Diesel, Now in hind site I can see you are right on! My foot was comming to a stop on the dash and the bands were not even close. I now believe that the steering clutches may be Ok if worked for a while. I mean I was spinning both tracks when I pushed that stump over. Glad I listened to you guys about the adjustments. Grungy? I wouldn't ask anyone else to crawl under one of these and take those inspection covers off. First when I loosened the bolts about a pint of water came out of each. Plus the grease and gunk up inside there! Grungy is not close! Been studying the lubricatation info today. I have the bucket that was with the dozer for certain locations. Looks like UGL goes in that. I have to dig it out and look at the bucket. I have not greased this machine yet and its time! I assume all the other fitings are std zerks? If I ever get to the electricals. Was considering changing the generator to a alternator and then changed to negitive ground? Any issues? Regards, Chris

Chris, Very nice pictures! Thanks for posting. I had the chance to mow grass at our local tractor show grounds this summer with one of these and a Woods 5 foot belly mower. Nice little tractors that run well and drove good! You have done a lot of work on the tractor! It will make a nice addition to the family. Looks a lot like the things I bring home. You did good on the initial price also. Regards, Chris

Folks, Well I know just a little more about brakes on a antique dozer. I have a operators manual and a parts book with pictures for the old dozer. Both books are grease stained and well worn, but they have the good info on taking care of one of these machines. The brakes: As a reminder this machine has a ATECO loader frame that sticks up right where you get in the cockpit. Most of the brake work is then done by standing on the track frame and or the tracks and leaning down into the area that needs attention. Brake acess hole in floor board. Just big enough to get one hand in. View from leaning over into the cockpit. First adjustment is to move this pin in till it has the shoe (surprising there was still a good portion there) within 1/64 inch from the drum. So I removed this pin and nut. Got them freed up in the shop. applied never seize. I found a couple springs and proceeded to fight those into position for the next two hours. Spring installed Now the bottom under the belly of the beast. Access cover on left and right. Shot of lower rollers while I was under there:) Lower inspection cover clean enough to be able to handle and put back on. The lower adjustment: Loosen lock nut above spring and then screw in bolt to tighten the bands against the drum. Again bring band to within 1/64 of drum! These bands had not been adjusted in several days. Like maybe 25 years??? So there was about a 1/4 inch of clearance between the drum and the band. Therefor saving the band! Yea it was not pretty in there! Also adjusted the brake pedals out as far as possible for my stretched 6-2 frame. We now had all kinds of brake action! Fired her up and what a night and day difference. The brakes allow you to spin on a dime! And I could steer by pulling back the steering levers and applying just a little brake on same side. Now I can start to get the feel how this machine is supposed to work! I took that tree root ball back to the woods and moved some boulders I dug out near the old tree. Even felt foxy and had the old girl in 3 gear. I am going to adjust the steering clutch handles again and allow them to go forward more. I dont have room to pull them back past my legs! Just too close. Now that I see they actually work and the steering bands are not junk, I think I can live with them further ahead. They move maybe 16 inches of travel. I could actually steer to the left without using the brake. Maybe I have that brake too tight? Or maybe the right steering lever just needs tightend up a little more? Anyway, much improved and I do appreciate all the help and support from folks on RED POWER! Pulled the dip stick in the trans. Good news it had something in there that was oily but looked more like peanutbutter? Put that on the list. I was also able to engage the starter from in the cockpit, so the clean up and lube of the likkages helped. And will be safer. Powerwashed the mud off tracks and track frame. Should have parked it on some planks for the winter. Thanks for taking a look. Regards, Chris

Folks, I got into the left brake adjustment tonight. The pedal seemed to go to rock solid to the floor. I took the upper inspection cover off again. Per the book I freed up the front pin adjuster to bring it close to the outside of the brake shoe. 1/64 clearance between the pad and the drum. Well that was not going to be easy to measure so we made it reasonably close. (I did find that the small return spring at the front adjustment pin was missing. I do not have one so add that to the list. It holds the brake shoe away from the drum a little.) Then I started the tractor and backed it up on some blocks. (had trouble starting it on gas?) This was to get better access to the lower access covers. Took the left one off, found a pint of water and about 1 inch of dirt and oil/ grease. Dug that stuff out and loosened the lock nut and then tightened up the brake shoe to 1/64 clearance at that point. Again a good guestimate. No room to get anything in there to measure. The brake drum had some score marks and had a lot of grease/oil. Tightening this brake band as recommended made the left foot brake have some peda/l clearance from the floor. So that is better than it was. I took the right cover off and will attempt to adjust that one tomorrow. Maybe this will help steer the old girl. We will see. I hope to get some more mud on the tracks and move the root ball that old tree I pushed over. I will try to take some pictures. But really looking up into that inspection port at the brakes was not for the timid:) Was really pretty nasty! I dont think it had been opened in maybe 20 years or more! Regards, Chris

Kevin,/ IH Folks I agree with checking all the connections and joints and adjustments first too. I do need to do some lubing too! I must say that it steers better than it did. And I really think If I could get the left brake adjusted so it would stop the tractor, she would pivot good to the left also. My Uncle was a pretty good mechanic and my guess is he may have changed the steering clutches at least once in 60 years? Think I will look at those brakes a little more. I did check the opposite side of the engine for the mechinisim of the gas throttle but couldnt run the lever and watch it at the same time. Need longer arms:) Did apply some PB Blaster to the joints. Still does not lock over center. More to do on that or just live with it. Regards, Chris

Kevin, Thanks! By oppositre side I assume you mean oppisite side of engine? I will take a look at that. There is a lot going on in that gas to diesel change over system:) Back on the steering clutches? Short of taking these out is there a good way to evaluate or improve the function? I know each unit is different. Guess I just need to understand the function and how they work better. So when I pull back on the left lever, it compresses a big coil spring that opens all clutch pack? Is that correct? Guess I was wondering if there is rust in there that might break loose if used? I Read where appling load and or soaking the steering clutch pack in kerosene might help. Being new to these machines I have a lot of questions. Thanks for all the help! I also need to look at adjusting the brakes. Oh if I did use kerosene on the sterring clutches wouldnt that damage the brake pads? Regards, Chris

exSW, Learning that too. The tree/ rocks stopped it pretty good. Made some good ruts in the yard. But was diggiing in:) Did more work (or destruction) in five miniutes than I could have done (or can fix) in five days. Regards, Chris

Folks, Adjusted the steering clutches. It helped a little. Seems to turn much better to the right when I pull the right lever and stomp on that brake. I actually pivoted right around a couple of times to the right. Going to the left not so good. You can get it to turn to the left, but better have a couple acres of room:)! Not sure that brake is grabbing as well as the right brake. Added taller stops for steering handles. Which brought the sticks closer. When all done still had to pull to far back towards the operator. May mean that the clutches are bad? Took covers off inspection areas. Found brake pads looked pretty good. At least there was something there about 1/4 inch thick. They may need adjusted too? Will have to look into that. ANy chance I can free up these clutches more? Our grandson Nic stoipped by, so I put him to work taking pictures. Yea thats me on the TD-6. These really are not very big machines. Very cozy in the cockpit! Had to try the steering out in the neighbors field. Opps sorry about that! Tried so smooth some of the big lumps:) I think its the state law that you have to push a tree over, and dig out some rocks, if you have a dozer! Made some nice ruts in the soft yard too. Found I had the steering clutches adjusted to tight as the dozer just stopped moving, neither fowrard or reverse. I thought the TD-6 was going to be lawn art! Then I decided to lossen both steering clutch turnbuckles and off we went again. Played in the mud a little. This is the diesel fuel line that was leaking. After removal found that the solder joint had failed at the ferrel. Re-soldered this and fixed the leak issue. Little things make me feel like I have made some progress. Its the lower line in this picture. Trying to understand why the Run on gas lever wont snap over center? Looks like the bent end of the rod broke and was welded. Still not sure what needs to be done here? Have to keep holding this lever down while it runs on gas. It has a vertical spring and a bent rod behind the dash that look lkie they should be what keeps it over centrer? Tried the adjustment nuts but that did not seem to help. Well we can run it this way but it needs attention. If some one has pictures or anything from service manual. That would be great too. I did get a lot of the thick coating of greaes off the engine and components from that power washing. How do I check to see if there is enough oil in the pump? Took the drains off the secondary and primary filters and a bunch of black stuff came out prior to cleaner deisel. Filters are on the list. Regards, Chris

Weather was very nice today! I did pick up a return spring for the steering lever. The hardware had only one:( And I guessed at the length and stiffness. I will try it when I get a chance and then adjust the clutchs if possible. What are the chances that Uncle Jack actually changed the dry clutches and they are just out of adjustment? Yea I doubt it too. My luck just doens't go that way on this old iron! In regards to the under carraige: I was going to also ask on the very worn and or broken right rail weldment. Is it possible to make these new? Or add gussets/ fish plates? Also if the rollers are very bad or worn are there replacements available?? Just trying to get a idea of availability and or costs if I was to dive into this machine at some point. Regards, Chris

Good suggestion on the track adjusters. The threads dont look good at all. I do like to fab things so that is not out of the question. Regards, Chris

Ron, Your right I dont need 6000 posts. I do appreciate the opinions and suggestions. OK I am not going to scrap it! I was at a friends house and he had RFD show on with a lot of IH products at some show. Then they showed a TD-6 that was nice looking and that helped secure the fact that it may be around for a while:) That one was a 1944 and was very similar to the 52 model that I have. Just did not have the bucket/ or blade. They said in good working order they could pull a 4 bottom plow. I agree with fixing little things and getting to know the tractor first. I am going to try to spend some time on it if the weather is good next week. That right frame rail looks like it was cracked and welded. I think it may be able to be fixed/ repaired/ reinforced. well any thing can be fixed , given enough time and money. But with this machine setting out side and winter coming on It may not happen for a while. Regards, Chris

Thanks Rick! I will keep that in mind. Off to play for the day. Regards, Chris

Folks, I need more feed back good or bad, scrap it or keep it comments!??? almost 6000 views and not many words! You folks must do less talk and more action? I did untarp the TD-6 today and soaked the steering clutch lever adjusters. Got the four lock nuts loose and lengthened the rods. I lenghtened them maybe a inch or so. and shot them with a good dose of PB Blaster. The levers dont come back nearly as far. But I dont have a feel yet. I did not have time to start the machine so not sure if I made any improvement. Weather is turning sour so I may not be able to try the adjustments this weekend? Book says I am going the wrong way, that i need the shorten the turnbuckle. So I may need to revisit that. Also I noticed that I do not have any release springs on either side of the turn buckles. May try to find some right sized springs. Currently the steering levers are falling all the way forward against the throttle lever. Much much more to learn. I did notice that the right frame rail looks like it had cracked and was welded and re-cracked behind the idler. Looks like the idle wheel is tiped towards the tractor at the top! Not a good thing. The track adjusters look like they are in bad shape. And the rails are very worn where the idler support castings fit. Regards, Chris

Rawleigh99 ,Going to try to do that in next day or so, good suggestion. Right now everything is blowing sideways:) Regards, Chris

cont, These pictures are not of very high quality, but at this time neither is the old TD-6! TD-6 at rest cover/ shield must have had a rock fall on it? Pump is still working. light need some attention someday. again way down the list. Right side idler Right side drive sprocket. shield is pretty much toast. back view draw bar primary and secondary diesel filters. Note this was before I power washed the unit, so there is a lot of dirt and grease. Here is the leaking fuel fitting, right above the sediment bowl. picture of the starter. the worn notch in the side panel is from starting it with a piece of pipe as a lever against the cam of the starter switch. throttle linkage left idler and bent rock shield. left center cover. left rear sprocket. lower track rollers. hydraulic resivoir and control valves rear adjuster for track left side. These may need lots of attention?? adjuster for track right side. carb side of engine. Thats it for now. Thanks for taking a look. I dont have a real plan for this machine at the time. Its been moved about 20 feet and is tarped. Spent some time reading thru the manual I have this morning. Weather may get warmer next week and I may look at the steering clutch adjustments. I see blue silicone around the cover so Uncle Jack was in there within the last 10 years:) Neighbor recommemds that I should strip off the loader frame work and hydraulics to get at the steering and brakes? Again comments are welome. Scrap is way down right now so its safe for the time being:) Regards, Chris