ThirdGenRed
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Posts posted by ThirdGenRed
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You did not say what year Dodge, but you said batteries not battery, and 5.9, so I assume you mean Cummins, not the gas 360 V8 engine. Batteries as they age out let lead sludge build up in the bottom of them and can start to internally short out causing the alternator to try to charge stangely, or it will start okay, then you park for just a little bit and you go back out to restart it to leave and little or no crank, I have had that happen. Depending on the year of the Dodge Cummins, on the 94-02 models, the ECM controls the charging on those. You could test and or replace the batteries as a good start, alternator would be next, this assumes your connections are clean. Another thing to look for is if it goes to charge really high and after a bit quits charging, one or both of your two relays for the intake heater grid have stuck on, I have had that happen a couple times. You can disconnect the wire on the driver's side battery to get the intake heater grid to shut off if that was to happen.
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If it is a 1980 twin stick machine, the fan switch is a toggle switch by the trans shift lever on the left side of the cab, not a rocker switch on the right side of the cab by the light switches. Otherwise, like noted above, the manual adjustment is a three prong handle on the right side of the machine behind the front tire.
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I am sorry for your loss, may God comfort you and your family at this time.
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21 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:
Problem was that the previous owner never used the brakes since his grampa brought it. Can't even stomp on it. I'm assuming its real bad. I brought it because it was a good deal to buy and it's my first combine. It's been maintained.
If the pedals don't move at all, more than likely it is the linkage under the floor under the seat is frozen. Mice will run back and forth on the brake linkage pivot bar under the seat and pee all over it, it will rust and then not pivot giving you pedals that will not move. The brake pedals connect to a rod that runs back under the floor under the seat to a pivot bar and then the linkage goes forward to the twin master cylinder. If you remove the seat and seat pan, you can see the floor, and there should be a sound pad laying there that you lift out and you will see an access panel to reach the brake linkage pivot bar. I removed the bar assembly on the one combine and broke it loose out of the combine, I also drilled and installed grease fittings so it mice ever run across it again, their pee can't rust it again. If the master cylinder happens to be full of brake fluid and not stuck or rusted, you are lucky, buy a lotto ticket. If you don't want to rebuild the twin master cylinder yourself, they do have remans for the IH Travelall, or they did five years ago, back then, I think they were about $200 bucks, no idea now. If you drove a vehicle with manual brakes, the newly fixed manual combine brakes will feel similar, if you have only experienced power brakes, the combine brakes will feel like they push hard. Brake fluid should be changed about every three years in cars, trucks, motorcycles, old combines, etc., but most people don't and the fluid turns dark as it absorbs water and goes bad. Non serviced brake fluid is what the death of the brakes was on most of these combines.
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The brakes are fixable, but it is no five minute job. The dual master cylinder is from an IH Travelall, you can see the casting has the word "Clutch" cast on the side of it. One side was for the brake, one for the hydraulic clutch, in the combine one is used for the right brake, one for the left. This is located behind your right heel under the floor when you are sitting in the seat, you can see that little square box with the bolt holding it on, this is what gives you access to add brake fluid. These are manual brakes, not tied to the combine's hydraulics, it takes more leg strength than the power brakes in the 21 series and newer.
I fixed the brakes on my 1460 and my 1440 by cutting an access hole under the floormat so I could remove the brake lines and linkage from the dual master cylinder. I used a piece of aluminum sheet to go over the hole I cut and screwed it down, with the floormat back in, you can't tell. I had to use a brake hone to clean up the bores of the master cylinder and used a Raybestos kit for the new seal kit. I flushed the lines and also rebuilt the brake cylinders, they are super simple, and bought some diaphragm seals to repair them. Bleeding it all out took some time, but they work great, not as powerful as the 21 series and up, but definitely worth it being I farm steep hills and if muddy or snowy, I can stop the spinning wheel being I have working brakes.
A pic of the brake kit for the master cylinder, you need two, bought online, very reasonably priced, under $15 bucks.
The wheel cylinder diapham seals had "777" on them and I just googled it and found them, they were very cheap too. If the mice ran back and forth under the seat on top of the brake linkage, it might be stuck and you will have to free it up. One combine's linkage was stuck, the other was not. I feel it was worth it, but it took some time.
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Dip your finger in WD40 and dab it on the lens, let it soak on the screen and then gently rub the screen with your finger and if that don't work, carefully use your fingernail. The solvent in the WD40 should soften the spray foam and lubricate screen to lessen the chance of scratching it, depending on what type of spray foam that was used. I can't guarantee it will work, but it should not hurt the screen.
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20 hours ago, dale560 said:
I will give them a thumbs up. They designed it with no egr cooler and only passive regen. As far as repair most things have gotten to be unit replacement.
I agree. Only passive regen and no EGR cooler is a positive. 23 to 1 compression ratio should make it a good cold starter and a fixed geometry turbocharger means less moving parts to get caboned up and stuck. I wonder if their wiring harness issues are resolved.
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Gout
in General Chat
Tell him to soak his feet in a hot/warm Epsom salt foot tub. It seemed to help me a lot. I have no clue what brought it on, got it overnight, dealt with it about two weeks and it went away. Very weird, it does feel like a sledge hammer was dropped on your toe.
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Make sure the electric fuel shut-off solenoid is turning on. We had a S1900 with a 466 that would not click on sometimes, we would spray wd-40 on it and it would be good for a while.
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Thanks guys. I had googled the fabric, but a lot choices that are close, I wanted to match the factory fabric. I thought maybe someone happened to know. I will contact Fehr Cab this week and see if they have it. If I find a source, I will post where you can get it.
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Does anyone know where you can buy the gray/black matrix seat fabric by the yard or whatever size they sell it in bulk?
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We bought an Aladdin brand hot pressure washer new in 1989 for $1750. It is a 1280 psi 120V unit that uses diesel for the heat. We also have a 3000 psi portable hot pressure washer that we don't use very often. We use that Aladdin 1280 psi almost daily, we had to replace the belt, fix the float, and change the oil in the pump, and that is it for 33 years. We find that Aladdin to be just the right size for almost everything, removing grease and oil on equipment with no soap, just heat, and general washing of everything. Our larger hot pressure washer will remove paint and decals quite easily, so you have to be careful. The only bonus to the bigger pressure washer is the higher psi and gpm are better for removing mud off machines, the more gpms, the better. The small Aladdin will do it, but it doesn't use very many gallons per minute, so it takes longer. I've cleaned engine blocks, crankshafts, rods and pistons with it before taking them to the machine shop and they can't believe they haven't been hot tanked. Wash the part with hot water until the part is too hot to touch, then blow the part dry with a blowgun, works great. We added a hose reel with quick connects to remove the gun and it makes it quick to put it away when you are done.
Whatever you decide, it may seem expensive at the time, but you won't regret it over time. Make sure you keep it in a heated area, ours stay in the heated shop, otherwise it will get expensive to fix the tubing in the burner and the pump if it freezes. A friend of ours found out the hard way when the furnace in his shop died.
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I agree with Mike and TB5288, the set screw may be out of the fork, our 5088 suddenly lost reverse, but still had low, but barely. Looking back, it always was a little loose shifting reverse and low. Anyway, on ours, lower and remove the auxiliary fuel tank and work thru the access plate on the side of the transmission. I had to replace the detent spring, it was damaged, and after I tightened the set screw, I put a bolt with a nut on it in the set screw hole with locktight and tightened the nut down so that it blocks the hole so the set screw won't just loosen up and have to be fixed again. Shifted great after that.
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2 hours ago, B.B. said:
Thanks for bringing this topic up I want to paint my 1566 one of these days.
So the 2150 Red at the CNH dealer, what hardener do you all use with it?
This is what two of my IH dealers sell. Expensive, but does make it a more durable finish.
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1 hour ago, brahamfireman said:
Square gas door, chrome around lower turn signal, should be a 78 model.
Still pretty cool!!
Look at the nose of the hood. That extra bump out on the hood was on the 79 models, I don't think it was on the 78 models. Maybe it smacked something and the front was replaced with newer panels? Still a nice old truck though.
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3 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:
68! Wow! I got 70 out of my 6.5 with overdrive , thought it was coming through the hood
When my Dad bought his '93 K2500 6.5 TD with a 4L80 and 4.10 gears, I happened one day to come up behind him on the interstate in my '86 K20 with a hot 400 small block. I pulled right even with him when I was in the left lane and looked over at him and smiled and floored it at 60 mph, he punched it at the same time and stayed door to door with me until we hit 80, then he just pulled away and I got a good view of his taillights. His truck would bury the speedometer and the needle would quit moving and the tach needle would keep climbing. When the tach would hit the yellow zone, he would let off and the tach would drop for a while then the speedometer would start to fall. Those 6.5 turbo diesels are faster than you think.
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We've had good luck with the Michelin LTX tires, but haven't ran your size. Quiet, smooth ride, decent traction on packed snow and ice.
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We shared the same birthday, he was just a year older than me.
RIP Bruce.
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Beer, Bourbon, Whiskey, Wine, we're the class of 89.
My small school was full of alcoholics, we lost three kids at separate times due to being too drunk to drive just during my high school years. Funerals were held in the school gymnasium, my fellow students would weep and cry at the funeral, then get wasted that night. Students would slam bottles of beer between classes in my locker area and pitch the empties into the trash can that had clear plastic bag liners. The teachers would just ignore the alcohol breath and the janitors never said anything about the empty beer bottles in the trash. The parents didn't think anything bad about it, they supplied the booze. I was not involved, I never did drink.
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On 3/25/2022 at 9:48 AM, VortecZ said:
No problem. I'm using there regular universal clear, not the 2.1
The PPG code is 932993 for the Ram truck code P61 which is their "Case IH Red" for their special order color option. The PPG basecoat was extremely close to the SPI dark red, side by side. You couldn't tell the difference. I have not compared it to actual Case IH paint from the dealership because that only comes in single stage as far as I know. It really is unbelievable how much better the price is for SPI and I've been using it a while now with no problems.
Thanks VortecZ, that is what I was wanting to hear. I did some checking and I can get the whole SPI product line thru my bodyshop supply, which is in stock, except for the basecoat colors. They carry SPI basecoat "black", but not the other color basecoats, instead they carry their "house brand" basecoats. I was wanting to go with a standard basecoat like SPI Dark Red that does not have to be tinted to match because I can always get more later and not worry about them getting it tinted right. I am short on time this spring, but am going to get some SPI Dark Red basecoat and clear to try when I have some free time.
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On 3/21/2022 at 1:32 PM, VortecZ said:
Yes I've been using SPI for a while now. I started by using their clear and epoxy primer and then moved on to using a lot of their other stuff too. Both the Magnum and the F350 have "Dark Red basecoat" and "Universal Clearcoat". I also just finished a 3288 with a PPG basecoat and SPI Universal clear. It works with any basecoat manufacturer.
Thanks for the response. Are you using SPI's "Universal Clearcoat" or their "Universal Clearcoat 2.1 VOC"? How close was the PPG basecoat to the SPI Dark Red basecoat, could you see a difference side by side? What paint code did you use for the PPG basecoat? I looked up SPI basecoat's price online, considerably more reasonable than what PPG red basecoat costs here.
Sorry for all the questions, but I know there are alternatives to the high priced PPG that are also quality paints.
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Fantastic work VortecZ!! I especially like how you carried the two tone into the door jams and door edges, nice detail. We have done the same rebuild on a Dodge Cummins and a Ford Powerstroke years ago. Changing the cab instead of trying to repair it was the quickest and best way for us to repair too. Just unplug the wiring connectors, remove cab, replace cab, plug everything back in, no damage to anything that way.
You used SPI Dark Red basecoat on your Magnum too, what clearcoat of theirs did you use? I would like to try some of their products and I like how your Magnum and F350 turned out.
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Happy Birthday!
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We have a 1985 5088 4x4 and if it worked fine when parked and barely will move when you let out the clutch, it is electrical. Like TB5288 said, no power going to the Sentry. In fact, if you have no Sentry or no test harness plugged in, it will do the same thing, barely move then stop when you let out the clutch. My best guess would be the independent power wire on the left battery is corroded or the inline fuse blown. Mike Links said to disconnect that small power wire with a fuse from the left battery and hook it to the cab solenoid output so the Sentry only has power when the key is on.
You can also check the two fuses in the fuse panel and the relays on the Sentry. Make sure the Sentry has a good ground, not grounded thru that relay like the factory did.
1480 combine final drive swap advice
in Technical IH Talk
Posted
The drain plug and the vent will switch places when you change sides. I bought two longer mounting bolts and cut the heads off to use for guide pins. I welded a nut the same diameter as the mounting bolt so I could use a wrench to remove the guide pins and they still passed thru the axle flange holes. I was on concrete, so I used my portable engine hoist to lift and roll them into place. Be sure you have it safely blocked.