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Everything posted by ThirdGenRed

  1. If you have never planted before, you are going to learn a lot. There are videos on YouTube showing how to adjust the early riser row units. I like the cyclo planters and have had very good luck with them. Opener discs should be close to 14" and not wobble from bad bearings. You need good firming points (frogs), and your closing discs should be close to 7". Just look it over and fix what it needs. I changed my eight row to use cylinder stops for height, I don't need any electric power to raise or lower the planter, and plumbed the markers to be on their own hydraulic outlet with me selecting what marker should be raised or lowered without raising the planter. I have a lot of irregular shaped fields and terraces and need to raise and then lower a marker to miss obstructions without raising and then lowering the planter. Pull the seed drums and use spray graphite where the seal rides against the sead module. Turn on pump and make sure air blows out of all rows, hopefully your air pressure gauges work in both hoppers. You will need to know what population to set the transmissions at, so you will need to know what combinations of sprockets to use. With the planter raised you should be able to turn the seed drums by hand if everything is turning free, and seed spout is set to not overfill the seed drums. I turn on the pto, then exit the tractor and turn the drums by hand to fill the seed pockets in the drums and set my air pressure. I go behind the planter and feel underneath each row to make sure I can feel blowing air from each row, if so, I go plant. Make sure you set the depth correctly and never back up with the planter down, it will pack dirt into the seed boot, this something that planters do not like. If your soil is high clay and almost too wet to plant, don't just drop the planter and then go forwards, you could pack dirt into the seed boot, I am slightly moving forward as I drop the planter. I feel the cyclo planters are one of the easiest and simplest planters to use, but all planters need to be prepped and adjusted right to plant correctly. Happy planting!!
  2. Wing windows and no side marker lights, so it is a 1967. About 1990 I had a chance to buy a black on black 1969 Z/28 four speed 327 with about 60,000 miles in showroom condition for $4500 bucks and I passed because I was short on money. Boy, was that stupid, if only I could go back in time.
  3. With those three color tail lights, red, orange, and white, it is 1978-1981. 1978 was the first year of those taillights and I liked them better than the single red light of the 1977, I remember when those 1978 Camaros were new. Looking at the hood, I would guess it is a 1979, but who knows with a car that old, it could have donor parts on it. If from the firewall back is not super rusted out, it is still worth some money even as it sits. My brother has a rough 1980, dark blue, but not rusted, and he keeps getting offers on it between $1500-$2000 and it doesn't run. He is keeping it for his son to build. That body style used to be plentiful, but they are getting more rare and the value is going up. Hotrod magazine bought one they call bonemaro and put a junkyard LS turbo engine in it and ran, I think, 10s.
  4. I would not only get a spare and a jack, but I would remove and reinstall all four tires while it is in your shop instead of finding out that wheels and lug nuts are rusted solid onto the car while on the shoulder of the road.
  5. It is possible, but like Gearclash said, it takes quite a bit of time. Hopefully you have treated fuel in the tank, if not, you need to add #1 diesel to the tank and dump in more power service, howes, etc. diesel treatment in the tank. I had a skid loader gell on me next to the shop and I added #1, more treatment, and used a heat gun carefully on the fuel filter and got it going, but it took time. Last year, I thought I had the semi treated good enough, I was wrong, at least it would idle, and called for family to bring me some #1, treatment, and some 911. Put on my chemical gloves and spun off the fuel filter, dumped it out, filled it all the way up with 911, and put it back on. It fired up and I drove off in a very short time. It was faster to spin off that filter, dump it, add 911 and spin it back on that trying to heat the skid leader's filter with a heat gun to get it going. It really depends on how easy it is to get to the fuel filter on what you are running, and if you have chemical gloves to keep the super cold fuel off your hands.
  6. Did the broken ends of the pin have any evidence of rust? Might have been cracked before, but finally slid out far enough for the ram to come off. From what I could see, good looking tractor and loader.👍
  7. Matt, I agree that it looks like it separates, but not completely, it did work. I used, I think, Mag1 dextron II ATF and acetone. It was not synthetic ATF and had bubbles of acetone in it, but not all of it. I shook it well and squirted it in the spark plug holes and let it soak. This M was drug around behind a tractor to see if it would break loose, which it didn't. I know that was too harsh and should have broke rings, but it was bought with a stuck engine and I figured I would try to free it up while planning on doing an overhaul. When dragging it did not work, I thought we had nothing to lose, so put acetone/ATF in it and let it soak. I was told acetone soaks into about anything, especially your skin, and the ATF will follow it in. With the engine free, I thought we would try to fire it up to see if it would run, much to my surprise, it ran, and it ran well. It did smoke some at first, but cleared up and does not use oil. I found this explanation on the internet, could be BS, but sounds plausible being I am not a chemical engineer. "The ATF/Acetone mix was a "home brewed" mix of 50/50 ATF and acetone which proved to be better than any of the commercial brands of penetrant on removing a nut rusted onto a bolt. No matter which penetrant is used they all require a period of time to wick down into the threads, but because acetone has an extremely low dynamic viscosity, it's thin, it gets into the threads quicker than the other products with the ATF following shortly behind for lubrication." It was cheap, I already had it in the shop, and I had nothing to lose figuring I would have to overhaul it anyway. Very surprised and happy that it did work.
  8. ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50. Pour down the cylinders and let it soak. We did this on an M Farmall, put it in fifth gear and rock the tire every day. On the fifth day, I saw the fan blade move, rocked it some more and then used the hand crank to make it turn over several times. Then with the plugs still out, used the starter to crank it many revolutions. Cleaned the carb and new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, and condensor, fired it up and it runs fine. I was surprised, I really did not think it would work.
  9. I agree with Snoshoe and Diesel Doctor. Cold weather does strange things. You may be leaking externally somewhere you have not found yet. You have a cab with heater hoses, lots of places for cold weather leaks that are hard to find. Your dipstick looks normal if in subzero temps, it looks like ours have looked in temps like we are now experiencing. If you could park it on clean concrete in a shed, you may find a tiny puddle under it somewhere that could lead you to the leak. Definitely keep an eye on it, but if no antifreeze is coming out of the drainplug, you are probably not getting antifreeze in the oil, but you can have it tested to be sure. JMHO
  10. He and the other Iowa guy both disappeared leaving their vehicles, wallets, phones, and coats still in the vehicles. Another guy just disappeared in Nebraska, same M.O., car sitting on the side of the road, still running, wallet, phone, etc. still in vehicle. Friend of mine told me about it, said some Mexican looking guys were in the areas the guys disappeared, then they were just gone too. My friend who drives a semi is now carrying a sidearm, said if he is attacked, he won't go quietly.
  11. The drain plug and the vent will switch places when you change sides. I bought two longer mounting bolts and cut the heads off to use for guide pins. I welded a nut the same diameter as the mounting bolt so I could use a wrench to remove the guide pins and they still passed thru the axle flange holes. I was on concrete, so I used my portable engine hoist to lift and roll them into place. Be sure you have it safely blocked.
  12. You did not say what year Dodge, but you said batteries not battery, and 5.9, so I assume you mean Cummins, not the gas 360 V8 engine. Batteries as they age out let lead sludge build up in the bottom of them and can start to internally short out causing the alternator to try to charge stangely, or it will start okay, then you park for just a little bit and you go back out to restart it to leave and little or no crank, I have had that happen. Depending on the year of the Dodge Cummins, on the 94-02 models, the ECM controls the charging on those. You could test and or replace the batteries as a good start, alternator would be next, this assumes your connections are clean. Another thing to look for is if it goes to charge really high and after a bit quits charging, one or both of your two relays for the intake heater grid have stuck on, I have had that happen a couple times. You can disconnect the wire on the driver's side battery to get the intake heater grid to shut off if that was to happen.
  13. If it is a 1980 twin stick machine, the fan switch is a toggle switch by the trans shift lever on the left side of the cab, not a rocker switch on the right side of the cab by the light switches. Otherwise, like noted above, the manual adjustment is a three prong handle on the right side of the machine behind the front tire.
  14. I am sorry for your loss, may God comfort you and your family at this time.
  15. If the pedals don't move at all, more than likely it is the linkage under the floor under the seat is frozen. Mice will run back and forth on the brake linkage pivot bar under the seat and pee all over it, it will rust and then not pivot giving you pedals that will not move. The brake pedals connect to a rod that runs back under the floor under the seat to a pivot bar and then the linkage goes forward to the twin master cylinder. If you remove the seat and seat pan, you can see the floor, and there should be a sound pad laying there that you lift out and you will see an access panel to reach the brake linkage pivot bar. I removed the bar assembly on the one combine and broke it loose out of the combine, I also drilled and installed grease fittings so it mice ever run across it again, their pee can't rust it again. If the master cylinder happens to be full of brake fluid and not stuck or rusted, you are lucky, buy a lotto ticket. If you don't want to rebuild the twin master cylinder yourself, they do have remans for the IH Travelall, or they did five years ago, back then, I think they were about $200 bucks, no idea now. If you drove a vehicle with manual brakes, the newly fixed manual combine brakes will feel similar, if you have only experienced power brakes, the combine brakes will feel like they push hard. Brake fluid should be changed about every three years in cars, trucks, motorcycles, old combines, etc., but most people don't and the fluid turns dark as it absorbs water and goes bad. Non serviced brake fluid is what the death of the brakes was on most of these combines.
  16. The brakes are fixable, but it is no five minute job. The dual master cylinder is from an IH Travelall, you can see the casting has the word "Clutch" cast on the side of it. One side was for the brake, one for the hydraulic clutch, in the combine one is used for the right brake, one for the left. This is located behind your right heel under the floor when you are sitting in the seat, you can see that little square box with the bolt holding it on, this is what gives you access to add brake fluid. These are manual brakes, not tied to the combine's hydraulics, it takes more leg strength than the power brakes in the 21 series and newer. I fixed the brakes on my 1460 and my 1440 by cutting an access hole under the floormat so I could remove the brake lines and linkage from the dual master cylinder. I used a piece of aluminum sheet to go over the hole I cut and screwed it down, with the floormat back in, you can't tell. I had to use a brake hone to clean up the bores of the master cylinder and used a Raybestos kit for the new seal kit. I flushed the lines and also rebuilt the brake cylinders, they are super simple, and bought some diaphragm seals to repair them. Bleeding it all out took some time, but they work great, not as powerful as the 21 series and up, but definitely worth it being I farm steep hills and if muddy or snowy, I can stop the spinning wheel being I have working brakes. A pic of the brake kit for the master cylinder, you need two, bought online, very reasonably priced, under $15 bucks. The wheel cylinder diapham seals had "777" on them and I just googled it and found them, they were very cheap too. If the mice ran back and forth under the seat on top of the brake linkage, it might be stuck and you will have to free it up. One combine's linkage was stuck, the other was not. I feel it was worth it, but it took some time.
  17. Dip your finger in WD40 and dab it on the lens, let it soak on the screen and then gently rub the screen with your finger and if that don't work, carefully use your fingernail. The solvent in the WD40 should soften the spray foam and lubricate screen to lessen the chance of scratching it, depending on what type of spray foam that was used. I can't guarantee it will work, but it should not hurt the screen.
  18. I agree. Only passive regen and no EGR cooler is a positive. 23 to 1 compression ratio should make it a good cold starter and a fixed geometry turbocharger means less moving parts to get caboned up and stuck. I wonder if their wiring harness issues are resolved.
  19. Tell him to soak his feet in a hot/warm Epsom salt foot tub. It seemed to help me a lot. I have no clue what brought it on, got it overnight, dealt with it about two weeks and it went away. Very weird, it does feel like a sledge hammer was dropped on your toe.
  20. Make sure the electric fuel shut-off solenoid is turning on. We had a S1900 with a 466 that would not click on sometimes, we would spray wd-40 on it and it would be good for a while.
  21. Thanks guys. I had googled the fabric, but a lot choices that are close, I wanted to match the factory fabric. I thought maybe someone happened to know. I will contact Fehr Cab this week and see if they have it. If I find a source, I will post where you can get it.
  22. Does anyone know where you can buy the gray/black matrix seat fabric by the yard or whatever size they sell it in bulk?
  23. We bought an Aladdin brand hot pressure washer new in 1989 for $1750. It is a 1280 psi 120V unit that uses diesel for the heat. We also have a 3000 psi portable hot pressure washer that we don't use very often. We use that Aladdin 1280 psi almost daily, we had to replace the belt, fix the float, and change the oil in the pump, and that is it for 33 years. We find that Aladdin to be just the right size for almost everything, removing grease and oil on equipment with no soap, just heat, and general washing of everything. Our larger hot pressure washer will remove paint and decals quite easily, so you have to be careful. The only bonus to the bigger pressure washer is the higher psi and gpm are better for removing mud off machines, the more gpms, the better. The small Aladdin will do it, but it doesn't use very many gallons per minute, so it takes longer. I've cleaned engine blocks, crankshafts, rods and pistons with it before taking them to the machine shop and they can't believe they haven't been hot tanked. Wash the part with hot water until the part is too hot to touch, then blow the part dry with a blowgun, works great. We added a hose reel with quick connects to remove the gun and it makes it quick to put it away when you are done. Whatever you decide, it may seem expensive at the time, but you won't regret it over time. Make sure you keep it in a heated area, ours stay in the heated shop, otherwise it will get expensive to fix the tubing in the burner and the pump if it freezes. A friend of ours found out the hard way when the furnace in his shop died.
  24. I agree with Mike and TB5288, the set screw may be out of the fork, our 5088 suddenly lost reverse, but still had low, but barely. Looking back, it always was a little loose shifting reverse and low. Anyway, on ours, lower and remove the auxiliary fuel tank and work thru the access plate on the side of the transmission. I had to replace the detent spring, it was damaged, and after I tightened the set screw, I put a bolt with a nut on it in the set screw hole with locktight and tightened the nut down so that it blocks the hole so the set screw won't just loosen up and have to be fixed again. Shifted great after that.
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