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ThirdGenRed

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Everything posted by ThirdGenRed

  1. Thanks guys. I had googled the fabric, but a lot choices that are close, I wanted to match the factory fabric. I thought maybe someone happened to know. I will contact Fehr Cab this week and see if they have it. If I find a source, I will post where you can get it.
  2. Does anyone know where you can buy the gray/black matrix seat fabric by the yard or whatever size they sell it in bulk?
  3. We bought an Aladdin brand hot pressure washer new in 1989 for $1750. It is a 1280 psi 120V unit that uses diesel for the heat. We also have a 3000 psi portable hot pressure washer that we don't use very often. We use that Aladdin 1280 psi almost daily, we had to replace the belt, fix the float, and change the oil in the pump, and that is it for 33 years. We find that Aladdin to be just the right size for almost everything, removing grease and oil on equipment with no soap, just heat, and general washing of everything. Our larger hot pressure washer will remove paint and decals quite easily, so you have to be careful. The only bonus to the bigger pressure washer is the higher psi and gpm are better for removing mud off machines, the more gpms, the better. The small Aladdin will do it, but it doesn't use very many gallons per minute, so it takes longer. I've cleaned engine blocks, crankshafts, rods and pistons with it before taking them to the machine shop and they can't believe they haven't been hot tanked. Wash the part with hot water until the part is too hot to touch, then blow the part dry with a blowgun, works great. We added a hose reel with quick connects to remove the gun and it makes it quick to put it away when you are done. Whatever you decide, it may seem expensive at the time, but you won't regret it over time. Make sure you keep it in a heated area, ours stay in the heated shop, otherwise it will get expensive to fix the tubing in the burner and the pump if it freezes. A friend of ours found out the hard way when the furnace in his shop died.
  4. I agree with Mike and TB5288, the set screw may be out of the fork, our 5088 suddenly lost reverse, but still had low, but barely. Looking back, it always was a little loose shifting reverse and low. Anyway, on ours, lower and remove the auxiliary fuel tank and work thru the access plate on the side of the transmission. I had to replace the detent spring, it was damaged, and after I tightened the set screw, I put a bolt with a nut on it in the set screw hole with locktight and tightened the nut down so that it blocks the hole so the set screw won't just loosen up and have to be fixed again. Shifted great after that.
  5. This is what two of my IH dealers sell. Expensive, but does make it a more durable finish.
  6. Look at the nose of the hood. That extra bump out on the hood was on the 79 models, I don't think it was on the 78 models. Maybe it smacked something and the front was replaced with newer panels? Still a nice old truck though.
  7. When my Dad bought his '93 K2500 6.5 TD with a 4L80 and 4.10 gears, I happened one day to come up behind him on the interstate in my '86 K20 with a hot 400 small block. I pulled right even with him when I was in the left lane and looked over at him and smiled and floored it at 60 mph, he punched it at the same time and stayed door to door with me until we hit 80, then he just pulled away and I got a good view of his taillights. His truck would bury the speedometer and the needle would quit moving and the tach needle would keep climbing. When the tach would hit the yellow zone, he would let off and the tach would drop for a while then the speedometer would start to fall. Those 6.5 turbo diesels are faster than you think.
  8. We've had good luck with the Michelin LTX tires, but haven't ran your size. Quiet, smooth ride, decent traction on packed snow and ice.
  9. We shared the same birthday, he was just a year older than me. RIP Bruce.
  10. Beer, Bourbon, Whiskey, Wine, we're the class of 89. My small school was full of alcoholics, we lost three kids at separate times due to being too drunk to drive just during my high school years. Funerals were held in the school gymnasium, my fellow students would weep and cry at the funeral, then get wasted that night. Students would slam bottles of beer between classes in my locker area and pitch the empties into the trash can that had clear plastic bag liners. The teachers would just ignore the alcohol breath and the janitors never said anything about the empty beer bottles in the trash. The parents didn't think anything bad about it, they supplied the booze. I was not involved, I never did drink.
  11. Thanks VortecZ, that is what I was wanting to hear. I did some checking and I can get the whole SPI product line thru my bodyshop supply, which is in stock, except for the basecoat colors. They carry SPI basecoat "black", but not the other color basecoats, instead they carry their "house brand" basecoats. I was wanting to go with a standard basecoat like SPI Dark Red that does not have to be tinted to match because I can always get more later and not worry about them getting it tinted right. I am short on time this spring, but am going to get some SPI Dark Red basecoat and clear to try when I have some free time.
  12. Thanks for the response. Are you using SPI's "Universal Clearcoat" or their "Universal Clearcoat 2.1 VOC"? How close was the PPG basecoat to the SPI Dark Red basecoat, could you see a difference side by side? What paint code did you use for the PPG basecoat? I looked up SPI basecoat's price online, considerably more reasonable than what PPG red basecoat costs here. Sorry for all the questions, but I know there are alternatives to the high priced PPG that are also quality paints.
  13. Fantastic work VortecZ!! I especially like how you carried the two tone into the door jams and door edges, nice detail. We have done the same rebuild on a Dodge Cummins and a Ford Powerstroke years ago. Changing the cab instead of trying to repair it was the quickest and best way for us to repair too. Just unplug the wiring connectors, remove cab, replace cab, plug everything back in, no damage to anything that way. You used SPI Dark Red basecoat on your Magnum too, what clearcoat of theirs did you use? I would like to try some of their products and I like how your Magnum and F350 turned out.
  14. We have a 1985 5088 4x4 and if it worked fine when parked and barely will move when you let out the clutch, it is electrical. Like TB5288 said, no power going to the Sentry. In fact, if you have no Sentry or no test harness plugged in, it will do the same thing, barely move then stop when you let out the clutch. My best guess would be the independent power wire on the left battery is corroded or the inline fuse blown. Mike Links said to disconnect that small power wire with a fuse from the left battery and hook it to the cab solenoid output so the Sentry only has power when the key is on. You can also check the two fuses in the fuse panel and the relays on the Sentry. Make sure the Sentry has a good ground, not grounded thru that relay like the factory did.
  15. Disconnect the batteries first before you start unplugging the Sentry. I fried the data center when I was swapping the Sentry and the test harness when I was testing it. I changed the Sentry ground after that happened. Not saying it will happen to you, but better safe than sorry.
  16. They both have the SAE 3 bolt pattern and I saw that they only list a 138 tooth flywheel, so I assumed they interchange, but wanted to be sure. I would guess they offset the centerline of the 10 tooth starter because the diameter of the 10 tooth gear would have to be a smaller diameter and being a smaller diameter, it needed to be closer to the ring gear, and I am guessing the 10 tooth might have more torque because of the smaller diameter of the 10 tooth gear due to gear reduction? Just guessing about that though. I was actually surprised there was a 10 tooth and 12 tooth starter, I thought the 5X88 series all used the same starter, I guess I learned something new. I don't remember anyone posting anything about the 5X88 using two different starters in the production run like you could damage the flywheel ring gear by using the wrong starter, but just wanted to verify before I put in a new 12 tooth starter and damaged something and it was a known fact to not do that.
  17. We have both boxcar Magnums and 5X88 tractors, and we like them both. In tight spots I actually like the 5X88s better, faster to shift from Reverse to Medium than to shift the powershift. The only problem with them is that they are 35 to 40 years old, if they were taken care of, they will be a good tractor, if not, you are going to have to put some money in them, but that is true with about anything. The Sentry controls the high/low shift in the speed transmission, and could sometimes give a fit, but the fact they are that old and still being used says something about their durability, call Mike Links at Triple R Tractors, https://www.triplertractors.com/ he specializes in them and can tell you what to look for, he posted on here how he tests them to make sure the transmission is good and he might even have one ready to sell, and if you do get one, Mike can get you about anything you need for it.
  18. I'm working on a 1985 5088 SN8647, and it has a Delco Remy 10 tooth starter on it. The earlier 1981-1983 5088s used a Delco Remy 12 tooth starter that I believe used a center of case centerline, while the later 5088 Delco Remy 10 tooth starter used a 2.5mm offset centerline. The later 10 tooth starter is a bit of an oddball, hard to find a new, not rebuilt one, the earlier 12 tooth starter is more common. Are these starters interchangeable? And if they are interchangeable, why did they change to the 10 tooth?
  19. I need to replace the park pawl on a 1985 IH 5088 tractor, SN:8647, and looked online for the part numbers. They show one part number as 148741C3 and one part number as 1270960C2 and the CaseIH parts online used to show a serial number break for which part went with which tractors, but it does not anymore. Am I correct that I need part 1270960C2 for this 5088 because it is close to the end of production? I really wish they would have left the online parts the way they used to be, a lot of useful information no longer there.
  20. If you are just wanting a little corrosion protection after washing, WD40 would be my recommendation. You can buy it in gallon jugs and a refillable sprayer. The "WD" stands for water displacement, and it is a thin petroleum distillate, not a thick oil, which should not cause a sticky build up, it can be hard on some rubber parts over time, so consider that.
  21. Prayers sent for Zeke, Rusty, and your whole family.
  22. It's a long shot, but make sure your fuel tank vent is clear. Worked on a Cat backhoe that acted similar with a completely plugged fuel tank vent. Good luck!
  23. Reread CIHTECH's post above. His post said 20+ psi inlet fuel supply pressure. Good luck!
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