ThirdGenRed

I am sorry for your loss, may God comfort you and your family at this time.

If the pedals don't move at all, more than likely it is the linkage under the floor under the seat is frozen. Mice will run back and forth on the brake linkage pivot bar under the seat and pee all over it, it will rust and then not pivot giving you pedals that will not move. The brake pedals connect to a rod that runs back under the floor under the seat to a pivot bar and then the linkage goes forward to the twin master cylinder. If you remove the seat and seat pan, you can see the floor, and there should be a sound pad laying there that you lift out and you will see an access panel to reach the brake linkage pivot bar. I removed the bar assembly on the one combine and broke it loose out of the combine, I also drilled and installed grease fittings so it mice ever run across it again, their pee can't rust it again. If the master cylinder happens to be full of brake fluid and not stuck or rusted, you are lucky, buy a lotto ticket. If you don't want to rebuild the twin master cylinder yourself, they do have remans for the IH Travelall, or they did five years ago, back then, I think they were about $200 bucks, no idea now. If you drove a vehicle with manual brakes, the newly fixed manual combine brakes will feel similar, if you have only experienced power brakes, the combine brakes will feel like they push hard. Brake fluid should be changed about every three years in cars, trucks, motorcycles, old combines, etc., but most people don't and the fluid turns dark as it absorbs water and goes bad. Non serviced brake fluid is what the death of the brakes was on most of these combines.

The brakes are fixable, but it is no five minute job. The dual master cylinder is from an IH Travelall, you can see the casting has the word "Clutch" cast on the side of it. One side was for the brake, one for the hydraulic clutch, in the combine one is used for the right brake, one for the left. This is located behind your right heel under the floor when you are sitting in the seat, you can see that little square box with the bolt holding it on, this is what gives you access to add brake fluid. These are manual brakes, not tied to the combine's hydraulics, it takes more leg strength than the power brakes in the 21 series and newer. I fixed the brakes on my 1460 and my 1440 by cutting an access hole under the floormat so I could remove the brake lines and linkage from the dual master cylinder. I used a piece of aluminum sheet to go over the hole I cut and screwed it down, with the floormat back in, you can't tell. I had to use a brake hone to clean up the bores of the master cylinder and used a Raybestos kit for the new seal kit. I flushed the lines and also rebuilt the brake cylinders, they are super simple, and bought some diaphragm seals to repair them. Bleeding it all out took some time, but they work great, not as powerful as the 21 series and up, but definitely worth it being I farm steep hills and if muddy or snowy, I can stop the spinning wheel being I have working brakes. A pic of the brake kit for the master cylinder, you need two, bought online, very reasonably priced, under $15 bucks. The wheel cylinder diapham seals had "777" on them and I just googled it and found them, they were very cheap too. If the mice ran back and forth under the seat on top of the brake linkage, it might be stuck and you will have to free it up. One combine's linkage was stuck, the other was not. I feel it was worth it, but it took some time.

Dip your finger in WD40 and dab it on the lens, let it soak on the screen and then gently rub the screen with your finger and if that don't work, carefully use your fingernail. The solvent in the WD40 should soften the spray foam and lubricate screen to lessen the chance of scratching it, depending on what type of spray foam that was used. I can't guarantee it will work, but it should not hurt the screen.

I agree. Only passive regen and no EGR cooler is a positive. 23 to 1 compression ratio should make it a good cold starter and a fixed geometry turbocharger means less moving parts to get caboned up and stuck. I wonder if their wiring harness issues are resolved.

Tell him to soak his feet in a hot/warm Epsom salt foot tub. It seemed to help me a lot. I have no clue what brought it on, got it overnight, dealt with it about two weeks and it went away. Very weird, it does feel like a sledge hammer was dropped on your toe.

Make sure the electric fuel shut-off solenoid is turning on. We had a S1900 with a 466 that would not click on sometimes, we would spray wd-40 on it and it would be good for a while.

Thanks guys. I had googled the fabric, but a lot choices that are close, I wanted to match the factory fabric. I thought maybe someone happened to know. I will contact Fehr Cab this week and see if they have it. If I find a source, I will post where you can get it.

Does anyone know where you can buy the gray/black matrix seat fabric by the yard or whatever size they sell it in bulk?

We bought an Aladdin brand hot pressure washer new in 1989 for $1750. It is a 1280 psi 120V unit that uses diesel for the heat. We also have a 3000 psi portable hot pressure washer that we don't use very often. We use that Aladdin 1280 psi almost daily, we had to replace the belt, fix the float, and change the oil in the pump, and that is it for 33 years. We find that Aladdin to be just the right size for almost everything, removing grease and oil on equipment with no soap, just heat, and general washing of everything. Our larger hot pressure washer will remove paint and decals quite easily, so you have to be careful. The only bonus to the bigger pressure washer is the higher psi and gpm are better for removing mud off machines, the more gpms, the better. The small Aladdin will do it, but it doesn't use very many gallons per minute, so it takes longer. I've cleaned engine blocks, crankshafts, rods and pistons with it before taking them to the machine shop and they can't believe they haven't been hot tanked. Wash the part with hot water until the part is too hot to touch, then blow the part dry with a blowgun, works great. We added a hose reel with quick connects to remove the gun and it makes it quick to put it away when you are done. Whatever you decide, it may seem expensive at the time, but you won't regret it over time. Make sure you keep it in a heated area, ours stay in the heated shop, otherwise it will get expensive to fix the tubing in the burner and the pump if it freezes. A friend of ours found out the hard way when the furnace in his shop died.

I agree with Mike and TB5288, the set screw may be out of the fork, our 5088 suddenly lost reverse, but still had low, but barely. Looking back, it always was a little loose shifting reverse and low. Anyway, on ours, lower and remove the auxiliary fuel tank and work thru the access plate on the side of the transmission. I had to replace the detent spring, it was damaged, and after I tightened the set screw, I put a bolt with a nut on it in the set screw hole with locktight and tightened the nut down so that it blocks the hole so the set screw won't just loosen up and have to be fixed again. Shifted great after that.

This is what two of my IH dealers sell. Expensive, but does make it a more durable finish.

Look at the nose of the hood. That extra bump out on the hood was on the 79 models, I don't think it was on the 78 models. Maybe it smacked something and the front was replaced with newer panels? Still a nice old truck though.

When my Dad bought his '93 K2500 6.5 TD with a 4L80 and 4.10 gears, I happened one day to come up behind him on the interstate in my '86 K20 with a hot 400 small block. I pulled right even with him when I was in the left lane and looked over at him and smiled and floored it at 60 mph, he punched it at the same time and stayed door to door with me until we hit 80, then he just pulled away and I got a good view of his taillights. His truck would bury the speedometer and the needle would quit moving and the tach needle would keep climbing. When the tach would hit the yellow zone, he would let off and the tach would drop for a while then the speedometer would start to fall. Those 6.5 turbo diesels are faster than you think.

We've had good luck with the Michelin LTX tires, but haven't ran your size. Quiet, smooth ride, decent traction on packed snow and ice.

We shared the same birthday, he was just a year older than me. RIP Bruce.

Beer, Bourbon, Whiskey, Wine, we're the class of 89. My small school was full of alcoholics, we lost three kids at separate times due to being too drunk to drive just during my high school years. Funerals were held in the school gymnasium, my fellow students would weep and cry at the funeral, then get wasted that night. Students would slam bottles of beer between classes in my locker area and pitch the empties into the trash can that had clear plastic bag liners. The teachers would just ignore the alcohol breath and the janitors never said anything about the empty beer bottles in the trash. The parents didn't think anything bad about it, they supplied the booze. I was not involved, I never did drink.

Thanks VortecZ, that is what I was wanting to hear. I did some checking and I can get the whole SPI product line thru my bodyshop supply, which is in stock, except for the basecoat colors. They carry SPI basecoat "black", but not the other color basecoats, instead they carry their "house brand" basecoats. I was wanting to go with a standard basecoat like SPI Dark Red that does not have to be tinted to match because I can always get more later and not worry about them getting it tinted right. I am short on time this spring, but am going to get some SPI Dark Red basecoat and clear to try when I have some free time.

Thanks for the response. Are you using SPI's "Universal Clearcoat" or their "Universal Clearcoat 2.1 VOC"? How close was the PPG basecoat to the SPI Dark Red basecoat, could you see a difference side by side? What paint code did you use for the PPG basecoat? I looked up SPI basecoat's price online, considerably more reasonable than what PPG red basecoat costs here. Sorry for all the questions, but I know there are alternatives to the high priced PPG that are also quality paints.

Fantastic work VortecZ!! I especially like how you carried the two tone into the door jams and door edges, nice detail. We have done the same rebuild on a Dodge Cummins and a Ford Powerstroke years ago. Changing the cab instead of trying to repair it was the quickest and best way for us to repair too. Just unplug the wiring connectors, remove cab, replace cab, plug everything back in, no damage to anything that way. You used SPI Dark Red basecoat on your Magnum too, what clearcoat of theirs did you use? I would like to try some of their products and I like how your Magnum and F350 turned out.

Happy Birthday!

We have a 1985 5088 4x4 and if it worked fine when parked and barely will move when you let out the clutch, it is electrical. Like TB5288 said, no power going to the Sentry. In fact, if you have no Sentry or no test harness plugged in, it will do the same thing, barely move then stop when you let out the clutch. My best guess would be the independent power wire on the left battery is corroded or the inline fuse blown. Mike Links said to disconnect that small power wire with a fuse from the left battery and hook it to the cab solenoid output so the Sentry only has power when the key is on. You can also check the two fuses in the fuse panel and the relays on the Sentry. Make sure the Sentry has a good ground, not grounded thru that relay like the factory did.

Disconnect the batteries first before you start unplugging the Sentry. I fried the data center when I was swapping the Sentry and the test harness when I was testing it. I changed the Sentry ground after that happened. Not saying it will happen to you, but better safe than sorry.

They both have the SAE 3 bolt pattern and I saw that they only list a 138 tooth flywheel, so I assumed they interchange, but wanted to be sure. I would guess they offset the centerline of the 10 tooth starter because the diameter of the 10 tooth gear would have to be a smaller diameter and being a smaller diameter, it needed to be closer to the ring gear, and I am guessing the 10 tooth might have more torque because of the smaller diameter of the 10 tooth gear due to gear reduction? Just guessing about that though. I was actually surprised there was a 10 tooth and 12 tooth starter, I thought the 5X88 series all used the same starter, I guess I learned something new. I don't remember anyone posting anything about the 5X88 using two different starters in the production run like you could damage the flywheel ring gear by using the wrong starter, but just wanted to verify before I put in a new 12 tooth starter and damaged something and it was a known fact to not do that.

We have both boxcar Magnums and 5X88 tractors, and we like them both. In tight spots I actually like the 5X88s better, faster to shift from Reverse to Medium than to shift the powershift. The only problem with them is that they are 35 to 40 years old, if they were taken care of, they will be a good tractor, if not, you are going to have to put some money in them, but that is true with about anything. The Sentry controls the high/low shift in the speed transmission, and could sometimes give a fit, but the fact they are that old and still being used says something about their durability, call Mike Links at Triple R Tractors, https://www.triplertractors.com/ he specializes in them and can tell you what to look for, he posted on here how he tests them to make sure the transmission is good and he might even have one ready to sell, and if you do get one, Mike can get you about anything you need for it.