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About ThirdGenRed

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  1. Like dale560 said, the starter bolts are different with a thicker shoulder shank which aligns the starter, might have to go to the dealer to get correct starter bolts. Most important, is the starter's rear brace being bolted on? Without that rear brace, the third mounting point, you will have a problem with breaking starter bolts. As far as it having something to do with you head gasket repair, did your mechanic remove the engine to replace the head gaskets? He would have removed the starter to do that and maybe forgot to bolt in the rear starter mount right by the engine mount. It's really e
  2. Change your oil, run it another 100 or so miles and change it again. Watch your fluid levels and you should be fine. If it was steaming out some antifreeze in the exhaust, antifreeze was getting into the combustion chamber and past the rings when it was shut off and a small amount of antifreeze was getting into the oil from the start of the gasket going bad. Some contaminated oil was trapped in the plate style oil cooler and is getting back into your oil, but it is a small amount and should be gone after the next oil change. Just keep an eye on it, when you change your oil, you can pop the rub
  3. Your 6.5 uses an remote mounted engine oil cooler mounted just behind the grille on the driver's side. When antifreeze was mixed into the engine oil, there was some kinda stuck in the oil cooler which is a stacked plate design and very difficult to completely flush. Like the guys above said, change the oil a couple of times until the oil looks normal. It only holds 7 quarts, so not too expensive to change. If it was run for a period of time with antifreeze in the oil, the first bearing you will lose will be the turbo bearing, you can check that by removing the intake air boot and grabbing th
  4. Hmmmm, I was born male and still am, and I have always been attracted to females. Therefore I am a lesbian trapped in a man's body. Now give me my thirty bucks, you don't want to make a lesbian mad.
  5. Here is the factory manual intake manifold installation instructions.
  6. Chapter 2 is all 5.7, 6.2, and 6.5 GM diesel. Chapter 3 is all 6.9 and 7.3 Ford (IH) diesels. It is ok and will work, the factory GM manual is nicer, especially the wiring service manual. Here is pics of factory service manual section on cylinder heads.
  7. Really a simple engine to work on. All you need for that is tightening sequence and torque specs for intake manifold and cylinder heads. The rocker arms are on rails and you tighten them to Ft. lbs. I have a factory service manual for a 1993, but the engine specs are the same for 1995. If I can post pics on here correctly I will post the tightening sequence and torque specs for you tonight. The head bolts are TTY so they have to be replaced anytime you remove them, or you can buy head studs which are reusable. I have just used the Fel-pro head bolt kits which have the sealer already on the t
  8. Sure sounds like head gasket, might clear up when into throttle because boost increases cylinder pressure and won't let much antifreeze in. If it does not smell like antifreeze, retarded timing can cause blue unburned fuel smoke, but it would smell like unburned fuel. Worst case scenario, if it is a late '95, could have a cracked block with cracks coming from where they machined in the oil cooling jets, had one do that with cracks in the bottom of the 6 and 8 cylinders, but that engine would also add coolant to the crankcase oil. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best, head gasket most li
  9. Loose neutral in overhead connection would be my guess. Will have full voltage until you put a load on it.
  10. This is just sad, but it explains a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taBDqquaMjs&feature=youtu.be
  11. They also had an "Aussie Special" 1460 with a factory DT466. Over the years several 1460 and 1440 around here were running DT466 engines that came from trucks. I never heard of them having problems because of too much power. Most everyone around is running newer stuff now, but the 1460 and 1440 combines had a very good reputation.
  12. I was told that a person has never lived life to the fullest until you partied so hard that you have to leave in an ambulance with your a$$ on backwards.
  13. Hi moosez63, if you are meaning running a 1020 head with a twin stick combine with cable controlled auto header, the cables from the head to the combine are still available at the dealer. I just looked and they are listed with the combines, not the head. So, for example, look up a 1440 combine and look at: 10-68 HYDRAULICS, AUTOMATIC HEADER CONTROL, SERIAL NO. 1501 THRU 20000 Item 14, there are two choices listed: 14 CABLE PULLING GRIP- CABLE, height control lower, 80.8 in., for 47 and 54.5 in. feeder and 820 header w/o rock trap 189131C1
  14. Yup, me too. It is possible like iowaboy1965 said, but I still can't stop, yes I am an addict to cookie dough. They say the first step is admit you have a problem. I also drink raw milk dipped from the bulk tank and enjoy eggnog with raw eggs, still not dead,,,,,,,,,,,,yet.
  15. Actually, Case did recently introduce a battery powered electric 580 backhoe for work in areas they don't want exhaust fumes in. I don't know what they are using for electric motors.
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