ThirdGenRed

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About ThirdGenRed

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    Midwest

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  1. Proud of my girls

    Congratulations Bitty! I think Rodney Atkins has the appropriate song for you in a few short years from now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgPWAbRTDG0
  2. Good job Tony! I can see why the truck won Best of Show.
  3. Rebranded tractor spotted in LaConner WA.

    Can you blame him? He is just a loyal John Deere owner that wanted an actually dependable John Deere tractor for a change. Heck, even John Deere wants dependable engines for their tractors. FPT ( Fiat Powertrain) engines are in their 5G series tractors.
  4. 7120 magnum accumulators

    Thanks SDman! So whether it is a 7110 or an 8950, they can all use the same accumulator charged to 135 psi at 70 degrees F. It does make sense to only have to stock one accumulator type.
  5. 7120 magnum accumulators

    Thanks for the chart Maynard! The 7140 uses two 84484077 accumulators and the 8940 uses one 117942A1 accumulator and one 117941A2 accumulator. Do they all get charged to the same pressure?
  6. Tractor to Start Farming With

    Not mine. I have ran them and would never choose those to do what the OP was wanting. For the price range of $8000 to $12000 a good 1086 or 1486 would fit the bill nicely. Would you prefer a cab or non-cab 4020, 4320 in dusty tillage, dusty planting, hot and dusty baling, or a decent 1086, 1486 with working A/C in those same jobs? I would choose the red ones for that. There are a lot of 86 series out there, just gotta keep looking for a good one reasonably priced. As far as future implements needing more hydraulics, he can later buy a newer tractor with more features to add to his budget purchase now, or sell his budget purchase to help pay for the newer tractor. These 86 series prices are about as low as they will go because inflation should keep the prices in the $8000 to $12000 (or higher) even in the future. If I was just starting out, I would go that way because it gives you the most bang for the buck, plus because of their popularity, parts seem to be everywhere. One other thing to consider, fuel is no longer cheap, the red ones will save you on fuel especially if his implements are for a 120 hp tractor. JMHO. "Buying a tractor I want to be picky as I will keep it a long time and want to be comfortable on it. Want List: 90-120 HP 1086 (131 Pto HP) 1486 (145 Pto HP) Diesel Good Tires 2 Remotes (Can live with 1) What are your opinion's on a good tractor to suit my needs? It will be tillage and planter tractor along with pulling 9' hay mower (currently have a haybine but grandpa is considering a discbine) and 4x4 NH round baler. Oh yeah $8,000ish price tag maximum. Could maybe go more for something super nice but I'd really like to be less than $8,000." I love the looks of an 856 would of these be a good choice?
  7. 7120 magnum accumulators

    SDman, are all the Magnums 71, 72, and 89 series accumulators charged 135 psi at 70 degrees F. Being there were small changes in the shifting valve, was just wondering if all the series were charged the same.
  8. Tractor to Start Farming With

    Yikes!!!! Poor Ned Beatty.
  9. Happy birthday, Bitty,Kelly, Tjoker

    Happy birthday guys!! Hope it was a good one!
  10. Tractor to Start Farming With

    True, but take pictures along the way and the experience would be priceless. I guarantee you would always remember the trip!
  11. prayers desperately needed

    Praise God!!! May he continue to bless you and your family.
  12. Tractor to Start Farming With

    That is a very nice looking 1486. It is currently at $5500 and I would guess $1800 to $2000 to get it to IN? It does have a full rack of 12 weights and the cast weight bracket.
  13. Tractor to Start Farming With

    A good 856 is hard to beat. We bought ours when it was about ten years old and have only changed batteries, fluids, tires, alternator, and injection pump and we still have it. It was supposed to be a 100 horse tractor, but when we bought ours from the dealer, they dyno'ed it and was over 115hp with more to go. It is a very strong running tractor. It has been very dependable and I think an 856 will do what you are wanting to do. If tractors have a personality, I would consider the 856 as the little tractor that thinks it's a big one. Ours had an ICB cab on it, but dad didn't want the cab, so he had the dealer change it to an open station as terms of the deal (which seemed like a bad idea when I was putting out hay for the cows in a snowstorm or plowing the driveway to get the milk truck in). There are certain days that an open station is perfect, but I find that I always would rather operate one with a nice cab. Our 88 series and Magnum cabs are very pleasurable to spend the day in, and keep you out of the sun (think of the relationship of bad sunburns and skin cancer when you get older). With that being said, if I was you and planning on keeping it for a good long while, I would look for a decent 1086 or 1486. If you want an open station, open the door, remove the door opener bar pin, lift up the door to remove it, and place it in a safe place. Do the same with the other door and open your cab windows. Weather turns cold, excessively hot, or rainy, just pop the doors back on, install the door opener bar pin, close the windows and turn on the heat or A/C. The 86 series and 88 series cabs are kind of a convertible in that way, and much quieter and more comfortable than the 06, 56, or 66 series cabs. A member here, Mike Links (Triple R Tractors) and others have a complete replacement A/C kit for the 86, 88 series cabs including hoses, compressor, etc. As far as a T/A, don't use it as a brake. We have never had to replace one and we do use it. Use your brakes to slow down, not the T/A. And keep your clutch adjusted, I think Diesel Doctor posted the correct procedure on here a while back.
  14. 5088 shifting into reverse?

    The detent is just a spring and a steel ball bearing and the shift rail slid back and ruined my detent spring after the ball bearing fell out behind the shift rail, the set screw is for holding the shift fork to the shift rail. I do not know how common it is to come loose, Mike Links (Triple R Tractors) who specializes in the 50 series tractors, and the other IH mechanics on here would be better qualified to answer that than I would. This thread does seem to show at least 4 or 5 tractors have done this, so it does appear to be somewhat common, or 4 or 5 of us just have really rotten luck. LOL! If anyone is going to remove that access plate to get in there to work on it, the access plate holds in place the Med/Hi detent spring, just like Thesd5488 said, so use caution when removing the plate so the detent spring doesn't come flying out and you lose it. The Lo/Rev detent spring is under a plug bolt at the top rear of the range transmission.
  15. 5088 shifting into reverse?

    The spring is a shift rail detent spring like Thesd5488 said. Our Low/Rev shift fork set bolt fell out and the shift rail slid forwards, then the ball bearing fell behind the shift rail and was trapped back there so the spring fell down and then the shift rail deformed the spring when it slid backwards in the bore. I felt we were lucky the ball bearing and spring did not fall down into the gear below it because the shift rail actually slid forwards out of the bore, that is when we lost low and reverse. The detent spring and ball bearing are below a plug bolt on the top rear of the range transmission. Here is a exploded parts diagram. The Low/Rev detent spring is part 5. The Low/Rev detent ball bearing is part 4. They are under a bolt plug on the top rear of the range transmission. The spring (part 5) and ball (part 4) are also used on the Med/Hi shift rail (part 6). Those three notches on the Low/Rev shift rail (part 16) ride in a bore of the range transmission case and the ball fits in the notches with the spring putting pressure on it. This is the "lock in place" feeling when you shift it. The Low/Rev set screw is part 7 and the same set screw is used on the Med/Hi shift fork. Also, make sure your external shift linkage doesn't have a ton of play in it and is causing your problem before you tear into it. We don't always know the history of these tractors and if they were used on a loader or in a situation where there was a lot of shifting, it could have more wear on the shifting linkages than if it was a field tractor most of its life and was put in one gear and driven for long periods of time.