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ThirdGenRed

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  1. I would not only get a spare and a jack, but I would remove and reinstall all four tires while it is in your shop instead of finding out that wheels and lug nuts are rusted solid onto the car while on the shoulder of the road.
  2. It is possible, but like Gearclash said, it takes quite a bit of time. Hopefully you have treated fuel in the tank, if not, you need to add #1 diesel to the tank and dump in more power service, howes, etc. diesel treatment in the tank. I had a skid loader gell on me next to the shop and I added #1, more treatment, and used a heat gun carefully on the fuel filter and got it going, but it took time. Last year, I thought I had the semi treated good enough, I was wrong, at least it would idle, and called for family to bring me some #1, treatment, and some 911. Put on my chemical gloves and spun off the fuel filter, dumped it out, filled it all the way up with 911, and put it back on. It fired up and I drove off in a very short time. It was faster to spin off that filter, dump it, add 911 and spin it back on that trying to heat the skid leader's filter with a heat gun to get it going. It really depends on how easy it is to get to the fuel filter on what you are running, and if you have chemical gloves to keep the super cold fuel off your hands.
  3. Did the broken ends of the pin have any evidence of rust? Might have been cracked before, but finally slid out far enough for the ram to come off. From what I could see, good looking tractor and loader.👍
  4. Matt, I agree that it looks like it separates, but not completely, it did work. I used, I think, Mag1 dextron II ATF and acetone. It was not synthetic ATF and had bubbles of acetone in it, but not all of it. I shook it well and squirted it in the spark plug holes and let it soak. This M was drug around behind a tractor to see if it would break loose, which it didn't. I know that was too harsh and should have broke rings, but it was bought with a stuck engine and I figured I would try to free it up while planning on doing an overhaul. When dragging it did not work, I thought we had nothing to lose, so put acetone/ATF in it and let it soak. I was told acetone soaks into about anything, especially your skin, and the ATF will follow it in. With the engine free, I thought we would try to fire it up to see if it would run, much to my surprise, it ran, and it ran well. It did smoke some at first, but cleared up and does not use oil. I found this explanation on the internet, could be BS, but sounds plausible being I am not a chemical engineer. "The ATF/Acetone mix was a "home brewed" mix of 50/50 ATF and acetone which proved to be better than any of the commercial brands of penetrant on removing a nut rusted onto a bolt. No matter which penetrant is used they all require a period of time to wick down into the threads, but because acetone has an extremely low dynamic viscosity, it's thin, it gets into the threads quicker than the other products with the ATF following shortly behind for lubrication." It was cheap, I already had it in the shop, and I had nothing to lose figuring I would have to overhaul it anyway. Very surprised and happy that it did work.
  5. ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50. Pour down the cylinders and let it soak. We did this on an M Farmall, put it in fifth gear and rock the tire every day. On the fifth day, I saw the fan blade move, rocked it some more and then used the hand crank to make it turn over several times. Then with the plugs still out, used the starter to crank it many revolutions. Cleaned the carb and new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, and condensor, fired it up and it runs fine. I was surprised, I really did not think it would work.
  6. I agree with Snoshoe and Diesel Doctor. Cold weather does strange things. You may be leaking externally somewhere you have not found yet. You have a cab with heater hoses, lots of places for cold weather leaks that are hard to find. Your dipstick looks normal if in subzero temps, it looks like ours have looked in temps like we are now experiencing. If you could park it on clean concrete in a shed, you may find a tiny puddle under it somewhere that could lead you to the leak. Definitely keep an eye on it, but if no antifreeze is coming out of the drainplug, you are probably not getting antifreeze in the oil, but you can have it tested to be sure. JMHO
  7. He and the other Iowa guy both disappeared leaving their vehicles, wallets, phones, and coats still in the vehicles. Another guy just disappeared in Nebraska, same M.O., car sitting on the side of the road, still running, wallet, phone, etc. still in vehicle. Friend of mine told me about it, said some Mexican looking guys were in the areas the guys disappeared, then they were just gone too. My friend who drives a semi is now carrying a sidearm, said if he is attacked, he won't go quietly.
  8. The drain plug and the vent will switch places when you change sides. I bought two longer mounting bolts and cut the heads off to use for guide pins. I welded a nut the same diameter as the mounting bolt so I could use a wrench to remove the guide pins and they still passed thru the axle flange holes. I was on concrete, so I used my portable engine hoist to lift and roll them into place. Be sure you have it safely blocked.
  9. You did not say what year Dodge, but you said batteries not battery, and 5.9, so I assume you mean Cummins, not the gas 360 V8 engine. Batteries as they age out let lead sludge build up in the bottom of them and can start to internally short out causing the alternator to try to charge stangely, or it will start okay, then you park for just a little bit and you go back out to restart it to leave and little or no crank, I have had that happen. Depending on the year of the Dodge Cummins, on the 94-02 models, the ECM controls the charging on those. You could test and or replace the batteries as a good start, alternator would be next, this assumes your connections are clean. Another thing to look for is if it goes to charge really high and after a bit quits charging, one or both of your two relays for the intake heater grid have stuck on, I have had that happen a couple times. You can disconnect the wire on the driver's side battery to get the intake heater grid to shut off if that was to happen.
  10. If it is a 1980 twin stick machine, the fan switch is a toggle switch by the trans shift lever on the left side of the cab, not a rocker switch on the right side of the cab by the light switches. Otherwise, like noted above, the manual adjustment is a three prong handle on the right side of the machine behind the front tire.
  11. I am sorry for your loss, may God comfort you and your family at this time.
  12. If the pedals don't move at all, more than likely it is the linkage under the floor under the seat is frozen. Mice will run back and forth on the brake linkage pivot bar under the seat and pee all over it, it will rust and then not pivot giving you pedals that will not move. The brake pedals connect to a rod that runs back under the floor under the seat to a pivot bar and then the linkage goes forward to the twin master cylinder. If you remove the seat and seat pan, you can see the floor, and there should be a sound pad laying there that you lift out and you will see an access panel to reach the brake linkage pivot bar. I removed the bar assembly on the one combine and broke it loose out of the combine, I also drilled and installed grease fittings so it mice ever run across it again, their pee can't rust it again. If the master cylinder happens to be full of brake fluid and not stuck or rusted, you are lucky, buy a lotto ticket. If you don't want to rebuild the twin master cylinder yourself, they do have remans for the IH Travelall, or they did five years ago, back then, I think they were about $200 bucks, no idea now. If you drove a vehicle with manual brakes, the newly fixed manual combine brakes will feel similar, if you have only experienced power brakes, the combine brakes will feel like they push hard. Brake fluid should be changed about every three years in cars, trucks, motorcycles, old combines, etc., but most people don't and the fluid turns dark as it absorbs water and goes bad. Non serviced brake fluid is what the death of the brakes was on most of these combines.
  13. The brakes are fixable, but it is no five minute job. The dual master cylinder is from an IH Travelall, you can see the casting has the word "Clutch" cast on the side of it. One side was for the brake, one for the hydraulic clutch, in the combine one is used for the right brake, one for the left. This is located behind your right heel under the floor when you are sitting in the seat, you can see that little square box with the bolt holding it on, this is what gives you access to add brake fluid. These are manual brakes, not tied to the combine's hydraulics, it takes more leg strength than the power brakes in the 21 series and newer. I fixed the brakes on my 1460 and my 1440 by cutting an access hole under the floormat so I could remove the brake lines and linkage from the dual master cylinder. I used a piece of aluminum sheet to go over the hole I cut and screwed it down, with the floormat back in, you can't tell. I had to use a brake hone to clean up the bores of the master cylinder and used a Raybestos kit for the new seal kit. I flushed the lines and also rebuilt the brake cylinders, they are super simple, and bought some diaphragm seals to repair them. Bleeding it all out took some time, but they work great, not as powerful as the 21 series and up, but definitely worth it being I farm steep hills and if muddy or snowy, I can stop the spinning wheel being I have working brakes. A pic of the brake kit for the master cylinder, you need two, bought online, very reasonably priced, under $15 bucks. The wheel cylinder diapham seals had "777" on them and I just googled it and found them, they were very cheap too. If the mice ran back and forth under the seat on top of the brake linkage, it might be stuck and you will have to free it up. One combine's linkage was stuck, the other was not. I feel it was worth it, but it took some time.
  14. Dip your finger in WD40 and dab it on the lens, let it soak on the screen and then gently rub the screen with your finger and if that don't work, carefully use your fingernail. The solvent in the WD40 should soften the spray foam and lubricate screen to lessen the chance of scratching it, depending on what type of spray foam that was used. I can't guarantee it will work, but it should not hurt the screen.
  15. I agree. Only passive regen and no EGR cooler is a positive. 23 to 1 compression ratio should make it a good cold starter and a fixed geometry turbocharger means less moving parts to get caboned up and stuck. I wonder if their wiring harness issues are resolved.
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