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Everything posted by WESnIL

  1. Two decals on the rear section and one each on the front sections (not shown) were added and the project is complete. For me bringing an implement back to life (and preserving its history with a tractor of the same era) is as or more rewarding than the tractor itself. Maybe it is because one sees so little of it. Fortunately the cultivator was complete, sans the one fast hitch bracket when purchased, as parts hunting may have been an exercise in futility. Now it’s time to hit the corn field and see if they work. On second thought corn is shoulder high so maybe next year.
  2. Now just follow the color. Assemble all of the red (and silver) parts, then all of the blue parts, and finally all of the black parts. Notice the bar that goes from the right front section back and over the rear axle. Per the book there are three ways to raise the front sections. With my cultivator the fronts are raised via this bar being attached to an arm fastened to the fast hitch arms at the rear of the tractor. That results in simultaneous lift for both front and rear sections. One alternative is hydraulic cylinders attached in the torque tube area of the tractor to raise each front section independently. To achieve sufficient height for the front when loading for any transporting to shows, etc. the back hole in that bracket was used.
  3. Then it is on to the right front section. Ditto the procedure for the rear section: take apart, clean, paint, and assemble. It worked great to use the left front section as a ‘pattern’ when assembling the right front section, and then vice versa. Again all new fasteners were used. For my eyes the few silver parts add a degree of ‘attractiveness’ to the implement. I also understand the view of the purists who prefer complete originality.
  4. Assembly is easiest when inserting the main rear frame part into the fast hitch prongs on the tractor. All new fasteners were used. Notice that the silver springs were red from the factory. If I don’t provide an address maybe the correct police cannot find me.
  5. Once taken apart the volume of parts is significantly reduced. My preferred method of parts cleaning is a 40 grit flap disc on a 4 1/2 inch grinder (This keeps most of the dirt outside.), followed by all parts going through a sand blasting cabinet. Then hang parts on a painting rack, wipe them down with a wax and grease remover, and finally brush paint with 2 coats of CaseIH Buff Primer, followed by 2 coats of finish color paint: CaseIH 2150 Red, CaseIH Gloss Black, or Tallman's International Blue. Flood's Penetrol is added to the final coat of finish paint. For ease and timeliness selected parts were spray painted with a silver paint.
  6. Now it was time to tackle the cultivators; patiently they have been waiting their turn for that same 8 years. It seemed best to make this a three phase project with the rear being the first phase. As purchased the cultivator was mostly complete; new shovels were purchased and a fast hitch arm bracket was fabricated.
  7. Well, with a lot of time and money the tractor part of the project was finished. Front tires were switched from 15 to 16 inch. With a full set of cultivators on the tractor my thought was that the 16 inch would better carry the extra weight. Conventional rear rims were switched to power shift rear rims that were galvanized prior to mounting new 12.4 x 36 tires with two sets of split wheel weights. The tractor walks uphill so maybe 13.6 x 36 rear tires would have leveled it up. All the usual mechanical and cosmetic issues were addressed for a complete restoration. You may notice the custom made seat riser for the deluxe seat. This idea came from a seasoned IH collector and makes for a more comfortable driving tractor with better leg room and gets away from the feeling that you are driving a utility tractor with its tunnel type vision.
  8. Over eight years ago a 1958 Farmall 340 tractor with TA out and a non-running gas engine followed me home from 300 miles to the north. About the same time nearly complete No. 266 cultivators followed me home from 600 miles to the east. We all know the drill: with a little time and money we can get it looking better.
  9. On tools soak them in a solution of muriatic acid. Use a plastic container and soak them outside due to the fumes. Oh, and don't breathe the fumes.
  10. Yes, like so many other things in life, everything seems to be relative anymore.
  11. What a drastic difference in age and technology in the two tractors in the first picture. Just think of the gains in technology in that time period.
  12. You are not alone on making mistakes. I made a similar mistake on my 340 with 12.4 x 36. I should have went with 13.6 x 36. With the 12.4 x 36 on the rear and 6.00 x 16 on the front she noticeably walks uphill.
  13. Jeff Foreman in IN J P Tractor Salvage in MO
  14. Wonderful idea! Nice job too!
  15. If plans don't change I will make my first and last visit all at the same time on the way home from Red Power. It only adds 10 miles to the trip.
  16. The Farmall 230 on the Darst sale did not have the front rock shaft. It looked different that way. Per IH literature the front rock shaft is not listed in basic equipment or extra equipment. The 230 on the front cover of the 230 literature that I have shows a tractor without the front rock shaft and page 5 shows a close up of the tractor from grill to battery. That does not show the front rock shaft either. Very interesting to say the least.
  17. Per IH literature, 7 inch spacing, 28 blade, 8 ft. 6 in. width @ 1,691 pounds. 7 32 9 7 1,814 pounds. 7 36 10 9 1936 pounds. 7 40 12 2,287 pounds 7 44 12 11 2,406 pounds. 7 48 14 2,669 pounds. 9 inch spacing, 9 ft. 24 blades @ 1,704 pounds. 9 10-4 28 blades @ 1,835 pounds. 9 12 ft. 32 blades @ 2.216 pounds 9 13 ft, 3 in. 36 blades @ 2,292 pounds. Hope this helps.
  18. They do not appear to be social distancing but they already have tractor fever. That definitely is some scenic country for a ride. With all official Fourth of July activities cancelled for this area a friend and I hope to organize a 40 mile ride for that day. Twenty miles or so, stop for lunch at a local restaurant (Maybe inside seating will be legal by then. Otherwise we will do a version of the old A & W drive-in.), and then twenty or so home via different route.
  19. There should be valves to back off similar to on a hydrostatic mower. It takes a 9/16" wrench to back them off on my mower. There is one for each side.
  20. It looks like a small point fast hitch mower, model C-21-P if a single spring in the back or a C-24-P if two springs on the back. That would be the correct mower for a Farmall Super C tractor. It sure would be nice to have a dollar, or a dime, for every acre I mowed with one of them.
  21. KWRB, And one can further slow a tractor down by tire size. An A or a B with 9.5 x 24 vs. 12.4 x 24 have drastic different road speeds. Don't ask me how I know. As we all know and understand smaller diameter to increase power, larger diameter to increase speed.
  22. That is super nice! A friend and myself are trying to put one together for the Fourth of July. We shall see.
  23. To my knowledge that tail wheel blade is not available. You may need machine shop to drill the holes/ That is not mild steel. And take along your old tail wheel for a pattern.
  24. 17 3/4 inch diameter on my single point and 18 1/2 inch diameter on the one for the Super C tractor. Was your Rustoleum rattle can or quart? It looks good.
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