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russ

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About russ

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/05/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bassett Va.
  • Interests
    old stuff and fast stuff

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1,348 profile views
  1. I've had pex pipe in my shop for years as air and water line only had problems with water line when freezing russ
  2. your answer is both they are indirect when running on gas and direct when running on diesel. The starting valve closes the precombustion chamber when switched to diesel russ
  3. my first one was a 1740 case then a 1845B great machine loved it then a divorce then a 1845C Junker all new hydraulics and a radiator $11500 invested sold for $12000 then a LX565 New Holland ISO controls still not used to it guess some habits die harder than others only problems are computer and alternator two each so far has about 1100 hrs on it so far dealer say's water in computer killed it both times its overhead in rops "don't like having a fair weather machine" keep it in storage container now instead of shed alternator is obsolete now so charge light stays on all the time. I've run bobcat and gehl and cat has my vote now the 299 cat is a beast will do every thing my 951 cat track loader will do and my TD9 at the same time amazing machine rented one for a day before getting the New Holland just my 1.5 cents russ
  4. If my recollector is functioning with in parameters KOO had a v12 GMC at one time don't know if he still has it or not russ
  5. they were used to cut trees into log length without pinching the blade and worked amazingly well and were very popular amongst the loggers of the 50's thru the early 80's when the knuckle boom and slasher became more affordable I've got 5 of different size's all McCulloch's russ
  6. I've still got lots of the saws dad and granddad used years ago and one is eerily similar to the sign post one it's a model 99 McCulloch and has two straight blades of different length's 4' and 7' iirc along with a bow blade of about 4' dia. also 2- 180 Mac's and approx. 15 others of different vintage's up to the ProMac 700. But I've moved on to Husqvarna saws now as parts for the old Mac's are getting harder to find. russ
  7. russ

    About chain saws

    dad thought there was nothing but a mac and we ran the 710 and 700's mostly but when mac went out we bought a stihl 031av and it was a good saw then we quit logging about 1980 or 82 only cutting fire wood and when the stihl needed work I was told its obsolete buy a new one so I went with a husky 268 like 70cc's and 24" bar add bout 5 years and all the mac's are dead I get a 455 rancher great saw light powerfull 20" bar with 14", 16", and 18" optional length's now 5 more years later I'm looking for a smaller saw like maybe an arborist saw top handle as my back doesn't like either of the saw's I've got now just cannot make my mind up I want. russ
  8. just filled the propane tank last month 2.69 a gallon x 380 gallons ouch burn wood in the shop also have oil furnace and heat pump with wood stove in the basement. the light bill for October was $59.83 for the house and $8.95 for the shop but didn't even turn the lights on for the month of oct. only other thing on in shop is refrigerator for the beer that's the curse of working 6 or 7 days a week since January but I'm proud of the light bill running the heat pump hasn't been over $90.00 all year so far. russ
  9. you can also use multi meter set to dc volts between negative battery terminal and negative cable after it's unhooked as previously described. the higher the volts the higher the draw. note approximately 4 volts is to be considered normal on '89 and newer vehicles up to about '14 haven't checked anything newer good luck russ
  10. had a Massey 8 for a while it was free to a good home so I thought what the H@#$% and it followed me home got it running but the cable to the hydro had been trashed finally converted it to rod linkage and sold it. it had a Tecumseh engine russ
  11. If I'm right there is either 4 or 6 bolts in the center that are removed after tractor is jacked up. Be SURE no weight is on spring before removing bolts or spring will roll and whack ya a good one along with throwing tool at your face! Spring is heavy slide to one side until out of track frame then let it down and slide to other side until out of track frame on last side then it's out of your way best place to put cribbing is just behind spring mount. Is tractor on concrete or out in the dirt because you don't want it to move at this point so put blocks against front and rear of at least one track safety first! it will hurt you! have fun russ
  12. you need to jack the front of the tractor up and remove the equalizer spring that supports the front of the tractor after spring is removed it's easy to get pan off and back on just use a 5 ton or so jack and use cribbing to support tractor for safety! have fun russ
  13. yep the points are indeed under the cap. the new points that are available are of a far lesser quality than those of yesteryear therefore I would suggest sanding the old ones to clean them also check the contacts on the inside of the cap for corrosion as they are brass as well as the rotor button just a few scrapes with a pocket knife or screw driver usually dose the trick and did I mention we love pictures! welcome to the forum also! there is a wealth of information here that dose not exist else where for these machines and all ya got to do is ask a question somebody will be along with an answer good luck russ
  14. back in the day when we logged we never had an IH skidder but lots of other brands not to be mentioned here! but to make a long story short most hydraulic shops can match up a pump that will work fine for your application just take your pump off and take it to them either replace the cartridge in yours or replace the whole pump good luck russ
  15. being a millwright and machinist, electrician, mechanic, fixit man for 40 some odd years now I've had to wield myself out of grief many times while there are many specialty wielding rods out there I only keep a few different ones on hand; nickel99 , 6010 and 6011, 7018, 11018, 308 stainless for the tig, and super missile wield for dissimilar materials that I've got to machine afterwards like wielding a chrome shaft to cast steel then drill and tap it through the wield to repair a cylinder. only comes to mind because I just done it 2 hours ago and it will hold for a long time too russ
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