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About russ_alabama

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Super M Farmall, 544 Farmall, 1066 International

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  1. M or SM, based on ID plate

    happened to think of pop's need case on the m&w... he had a model 66 allis combine that he used most every year until about when i came along... was like this one (still had it in the shed, but not being used when i was a little kid): ... got a moline for a year, and then bought a neighbor-traded-in '65 E Gleaner at the dealer... but the pull type combine would have been the dominant case for wanting the m&w, i'd guess... said it did a great job, but was just slow with that small a header. was a sack-grain type (no bin) until pop's brother told him he could have the bin off his scrapped allis 66 (hauled back from faunsdale, al in a pickup)... we used the E from about '72 till about '92 or so... was a great operating machine and did a nice job on beans...
  2. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Thanks! I'll get one while I can. If I were an optimist at my age, I'd get a spare. .
  3. M or SM, based on ID plate

    eventually, i'll have to take it apart to clean, as that boot let water in... it doesn't actuate since i got it back and the regular clutch works like it should... could have been that way a while, but don't know... could be only since the 2nd owner had the stroke, when it sat out for two years... the old mechanic down the street that worked on IH stuff for the public (when not in the cotton field) went thru all the details and motions of disassembly and getting it right again, saying he'd worked on a bunch of them (mostly hay guys locally had that added, so i'm not sure why Pop did, other than for the arbor saw)... the mechanic, he's in his 80s and in good health and great mind... he could have been the one to install it, but he didn't say so when he came by after i bought the tractor back... might be interesting to get his take on it. might be some local guy other than him that did those odd installs that you guys are saying ain't the norm, without the adapter plate. we're apt to do unconventional things in bama... peanuts in cokes, chocolate gravy, etc...
  4. M or SM, based on ID plate

    yeah, don't know... i doubt dad would have done a drill and tap install himself... so, not sure... could have had it done, but i just don't remember the who-done-it details... ... i was pretty sure that it was done after the purchase, but now i wouldn't be shocked if i was wrong and it was a dealer addition... just sticks in memory that dad referred to it as something he'd added... you guys know better than me what's plausible, tho'...
  5. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Here's pics of the engine serial number, the M&W clutch at a few different angles, so you can see the mounting of it... tractor needs a bath bad, so forgive the bottom pic... also a couple of the right side brakes... 282962 is what i think the engine number is... ID plate showed my SN at 2959x2... so that's the 13000 diff that DWV said should be there, i guess.
  6. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Thanks, Pinetree. Will do on the web sites, and will try to do on the round up... hard to get a day off during that time, but if it ain't weather to cut, Tedder, or bale up here in north bama, I can make a day break justifiable. This site has been a heck of a lot of much appreciated info and advice since I've found it, but I'm learning quick how much ain't apparent in variations across a single series on the M. A mystery is interesting, but not when buying parts. Ha. Just knowing what's under the covers explains a lot. Makes me appreciate more what I paid 2x its worth to get back in the old M. But if I can put it back to some regular tasks, I'll feel like I did more than take up space and deprive the other foolish bidder at the estate auction where I bought it back.
  7. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Pop was doing that clutch change early in a marriage... it was in a open front dirt floor car shed built in the thirties, when the old house was... hand full of wrenches and thrifty times then in the late 50s. His first concrete floor was here at this farm in the late 70s. I built another shop here and he'd never have approved of... especially the height clearance being enough to get a tractor in the shop with the muffler on. To be fair, I may wish I had the money instead one day, though. I'll try to take a better pic of the brake cover on the left, and of the engine number behind the coil.
  8. M or SM, based on ID plate

    so with my SN at 2959x2 (can't make out the next to last digit), mine would have the SM crank journals, larger trans input shaft and bearing, SM manifold, 12 clutch/flywheel, and SM head... if the m&w clutch can be made to work again, its the only way i remember the tractor... not that i'd need it, that i know of, and matching brakes might be nicer... but seems to be more like the tractor i grew up with with the m&w. man, i can see how tracking all these changes for a mechanic or parts man would have been a live-by-the-microfich deal, even in the 50s. I remember Pop saying he'd changed the clutch without breaking the tractor apart, out in the old car shed at my Granddad's place. "only one way you could get it thru the opening" he said...
  9. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Good info to know... brakes seem good, tho the pedals aren't at same adjustment, and I need a new return spring on one pedal... the tractor was shedded and used regularly until the neighbor got sick four years ago... then sat still in the yard two years uncranked... the estate sale folks got a fellow that's a good mechanic to come (after another fellow that'd be a lesser mechanic) and get everything running that would run, and the first fellow had put plugs, coil, and new ignition parts in... second fellow adjusted timing and points and it just fired up... odd it didn't even have rust in the tank... there was a C there also that I wish I'd bought, as it'd been bought by the fellow that had the M at a estate sale six or so years ago, where that guy was a close friend of Pops that'd bought the C new. Just didn't recognize the C and didn't know who it'd belonged to. I ran the M every week or two for a year and then let it sit a year after the cheap replacement solenoid I put on to replace that last cheap solenoid went out too... and the thermostat gasket started leaking... may look for a larger high current truck firewall solenoid, as I'm not restoring now so much as wanting to keep it moving and give it a job... of course the wiring and gauges are crap too. Not fire hazard level, but skeptical enough looking to warrant a rewire. Working 40hrs and farming as near that as possible, with 15hrs commute a week, I'm just not getting to the M. Was fencing to move some heifers to a lot for a first bull this weekend. A month ago, I pulled the tank off he M as it'd gunked the gas in it... non-ethanol and sea foam in it, but a year old... going to get the tank boiled out and add a fuel filter after the bowl... carb works good but needs the bowl valve shut off to prevent a very slow leak at the needle and seat in the carb. Need to replace seat and the spring cap under the seat, and the rear tank support's base and battery box rotted out from the battery. Just needs about twenty hours of attention immediately to get used occasionally that I'm going to have to find the time for. One thing I need now is a front bolster tow set up to quickly get it in the shop for some work and then back in a shed stall, so I can work it in he schedule for a repair at a time rapidly. It's one of those things that'd get sporadic attention before it'd get devoted attention. That last statement is probably applicable to why I'm an old bachelor. Ha.
  10. M or SM, based on ID plate

    You like band better? For performance reason, or maintenance, etc?
  11. M or SM, based on ID plate

    No paperwork, I'm afraid... I'm just sure that Pop said of the tractor that it was rebuilt some time after they got it, and it was done prior to my coming along in 65... 544 was bought in '69. New and nearly obsolete might have been a deal, and with the uncle involved, that might explain the choice. I remember what the neighbor just north of here said when I explained I was interested in getting the tractor back... same thing he said after I got it... "four gallon an hour"... I asked, "you think so"... "i know so... I run one a many a mile, and it'll use four gallon an hour... I went to diesel and had twice the power and used half the fuel"... was probably. 806 he went to, if I'm remembering right what he had when I was a kid... he passed on just after Pop did... ... I ran the 355 new holland mixer with the M after I got it and he was about right on the gas use with it... it ain't thrifty but it handled load variations well... good governor operation, seemed like.
  12. M or SM, based on ID plate

    Ah well, at least I'll know which pedal to trust now. Ha.
  13. M or SM, based on ID plate

    So it could have disk still on the left, while having the m&w kit? Brakes are surprisingly good given how it looked after sitting out two years... when I brought it home on the good neck trailer, I should have backed it, so I could pull it off. Brakes were better than I was afraid they'd be, where I'd expected to be flying off there.
  14. M or SM, based on ID plate

    That emblem being wrong kept nagging me, as I kept looking at super M's for sale and seeing that square emblem. I guess Pop was like teens were about putting super sport emblems on a souped up standard nova, impala, or chevelle when I was in high school. He'd souped it up and wanted to put "super" on it.
  15. M or SM, based on ID plate

    That's interesting. Last month of an M. It must have sat on the lot 9mo or so, as Pop would have been up in Cleveland working a winter at Ford, prior to coming back to put in a crop. He did that a few years years, working winters at Packard and Ford. His brother wrote and said they needed to buy 80acres up for sale, and when Dad agreed, brother said needed to buy a tractor together next... so that'd have been bought early in '53. I'll check the engine number in the morning. Funny on the band brake tradeoff to get the M&W clutch. Goes to show, everything good has a cost.