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farmall1941

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About farmall1941

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/04/1985

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    jwarehime51@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    maryland
  • Interests
    Antique farmall tractors and equipment. Current tractor collection consists of 1941 H, 1950 H, 1953 Super H, 1952 M, 1941 MD, 1947 MD, 1951 MD, 1953 Super MD, 1954 Super MTA DIESEL. IH equipment includes, #8 Little Genius 2-14,
    3-14, 4-14 plows. #39 rollover plow, H86 and H186 2 way mounted plows, HM221, HM238, HM250, M448 Cultivators. HM221 mounted drill planter, HM280 mounted runner planter, and rear mounted planters and mowers. Always looking for more early ih diesels.

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  1. The decompression lever is correct, forward gas rear to diesel. I have 5 mds and they are all that way, the manual was a misprint. Your issue is the friction disc in the cross shaft housing are cruddy and need to be disassembled and cleaned.
  2. Ih mounted and pull type pickers
  3. A sweet corn picker is a typical picker without a husking bed, the #24 and 34hm series pickers are getting extremely hard to find in usable condition and parts availability is scarce. Your cheapest and most efficient source would be to find a new idea mounted picker with just a hopper or just remove the husking rolls. If you are on facebook there is a really good group dedicated solely to IH pickers and a group of guys with great knowledge of them.
  4. You are correct, the md-early 400 felt seal requires the oil grooves on the crank and it also uses different upper and lower plates. The 2 peice lip seal uses a smooth crank. I personally prefer to not half*** something.
  5. Bates is suppose to be trying to get seals made. Check with them. Last year cam bearing finally got back on the market for the diesels. It takes time to get stuff made unfortunately and finding manufacturers to make the stuff can be a challenge.
  6. If the starting vales dont open fully it wont run on gas properly, if they dont close fully then it wont run on diesel. The opening and closing of starting valves is controlled by linkage behind carburetor, all that is set to tolerances set with a feeler gauge. If you start adjusting things or someone else has this will csuse problems. Also the valves can stick from setting and build up. Its hard to fully under stand this till you have seen the bottom of the head. The first pic is before valves were installed. The small round hole below is the starting valve, the 2 large are self explained, the small elongated hole above is for the injector. In the assembled long block the shiney round cups setting between the edge of head (spark plug side) and int/exh valves is the starting valve. The final pic is the latch and control arm that must be within tolerance to properly open and close starting valves and butterflys in manifold.
  7. The starting valves are pushed down to open which is how gas gets into the cylinders to run on gas. If the starting valves arent opening properly thats why you not getting vaccum to draw fuel. The valves must close completely for it to build compression to run on diesel. If a valve hangs open then it wont have enough compression to run or it will miss on that cylinder. Hopefully your friend has experience working on a gas start diesel, the i worked for IH for 30 years means absolutely nothing if you have never worked on these engines before. Once you get it running you better take darn good care of it, its not hard to drop 6 grand or more in overhauling one of them. Good luck.
  8. First off, plugs need to be a champion D89D (new #543) or direct cross over. Second the starting valves are in the cylinder head so the valve cover must be removed. You will see the intake and exhaust valves the starting valves are the 4 round cups that operate off the lower rockershaft. The starting valves need to be opening fully for it to create vaccume. The opening and closing of the starting valves, butterfly shaft opening and closing of the float in carb is all controled by the cross shaft and decompression lever. IF THE DECOMP LEVER AND ALL ASSOCIATED PARTS ARE OUT OF ADJUSTMENT IT WILL NOT START OE RUN PROPERLY ON GAS END OF STORY. you need to get a service manual or IT #8 service book and adjust to specs outlined. I have handful of these diesels and have run into the same problem in the past with one of mine.
  9. farmall1941

    1949 md

    Just to give you a heads up, i just overhauled a engine for my super mta diesel (same engine larger cubic inches) and i had 9 grand in parts and machining. You will be extremely hard pressed to overhaul one for less the 6 grand if its to that point ie stuck, worn out ect.
  10. I already have the entire factory conversion package and all the supporting litature. I dont particularly like the look of the clutch lift plow and would rather just seap the entire axle to a factory hydraulic lift axle if one can be found. Jim.
  11. I have a 4 bottom #8L plow, im looking for a landside axle for this modle plow with factory hydraulic lift. Mine is currently clutch lift and i am looking to convert it. If anyone knows of a good salvage yard or someone who would have one for sale let me know. Thanks.
  12. New American Made cam bearings are now available thru Bates Corp for the Farmall gas start diesel engines D248 thru D281.
  13. Are you getting gas to carb? If not is float actuator opening the float when decompression lever is on gas side? Is ut wired properly, firing order is 1342 in COUNTER CLOCKWISE ROTATION Is starting valves opening, unlike the coment above the intake and exhaust valves are always opening and closing when engine runs. The starting valves need to open for combustion. Also check the butterfly plates in manifold. Are you using the right spark plug? Champion 543 (d89d) or equivalent Is it a mag or distributor, if mag then it must be a h4 ccw rotation mag.
  14. A md engine will fit in a td6 frame but tou will have to change rear engine plate, front motor mount, fuel filter housing, water seperator, all fuel lines, throttle control rods, intake air pipe, ect. However taking a motor from a td6 and putting in a md us a entirely different thing as the td6 block does not have the boss drilled and tapped to take the stud for the throttle rocker assemby on side of engine. So you will have to drill a hole in the side of the engine and hope to not screw up the engine if you miss drill...
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