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About Haymaker101

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/06/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Hatfield Massachusetts
  • Interests
    International 1086
    New Holland TN65
    International 175c
    Mahindra 2615

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  1. Hey, I tightened the fan blades (again) which has helped the cooling a little. If I don’t run it hard I’m able to keep the temp gauge around 205-210 degrees. I removed the radiator cap to watch for flow but it was hard to tell. The coolant was moving but it seemed very slowly. Is the radiator supposed to be under pressure? It appeared that there was none at all. I would think there would 7-8 pounds maybe like in a truck? I’m thinking about maybe pulling my lower radiator hose and flushing the radiator and checking for any type of blockage. Thoughts? Thanks guys!
  2. Hey guys, All good ideas, thank you. If it comes to pulling the radiator I have a 10,000lb mini excavator which would probably do the trick. If I had to spend the $1,100 on a core it is what it is, hopefully not. I will be back at the farm on Tuesday or Wednesday and we’ll see if the coolant is flowing good and try and help us assess situation. Unfortunately I know the temp guage is accurate because I’ve boiled over in the past at 220 by accident. Now at 205-210 Degrees I idle down and let it cool. Ill take some more pictures of my finding. Thanks guys
  3. Hey Pede, thanks for the advice. I’m going to carefully check radiator flow this week. (Tuesday most likely). Ill certantily need to use caution but when should I get it to flow, around 190 degrees? I assume at that temp the thermostat is open coolant should be noticeably moving? Also my only working gauge is the engine temp gauge that I know of. I will confirm more later this week. I looked in my manual and the radiator doesn’t look like an quick and easy pull...I could be wrong but looks tricky. Thanks again
  4. Hey guys, I ran the loader for a total of about two hours today between letting it cool down and digging stumps. The transmission has never felt so strong and did great. Thank you for your advice on the overheating issues. I’m going to have anybody come and take a look at the water pump and see if he’s willing to do the job with me. Does not look like it should be too bad, famous last words! I will check all my shrouds this week when I get back to the farm. I’ll also include some pictures for reference. When I power washed the radiator in the fall I did swing the front cooler out to clean from both sides. When I ran the machine today I ran it with all the engine covers off, upper and lower side covers. It seemed that the engine did not heat up as fast. I always was under the impression that the panels need to be on to help pull the air over the motor through the radiator. Am I correct? Does that make any sense? Any idea what a new radiator for this machine cost? Scrap yards carry them? I believe it’s the 466 engine. Maybe a good radiator shop could flush and clean properly. I attached a picture of my stump dump and will take more pictures during the week. Thanks guys have a good night
  5. Success! I installed the new 1 1/4" suction hose tonight. (Hyd shop was out of 1" suction). Runs awsome! Reinstalled skidplates and is ready to dig stump tomorrow! (I can run it for about 1/2 hour) before it heats up to over 210 degrees. So, thanks everyone for your help and patience, I could not have fixed this without the forums help. Now that I have everyone attention, Ive talked before about my overheating issue before and now its time to finally find the fix. I have powerwashed the radiator, checked over radiator hoses for failure, did some custom blacksmithing to my fan blades, (they are pulling air over the radiator, installed new tight belts. Next step pull the thermostat to test? Water Pump? If its the water pump, anyway to replace without pulling the radiator? Thanks in advance. Ill post some pictures tomorrow assuming all goes well. Have a good night.
  6. Got the old line off tonight, measures about 50” plus fittings. Going to local hydraulic shop tomorrow to hopefully have a new line made. I was able to get at it with a 2” opened end wrench and a 3’ Long 3” pipe as leverage...to say the least they were tight. If things go good I’ll install after work and hopefully she’ll be moving!
  7. You guys were right the whole time about losing suction and needing to put gauges on it. Life just got too busy with spring planting, working full time, hay and 9month old baby boy to take care of. So anyways, thanks again. Those fittings look like JIC to you? I'm assuming I'm going to install the new line, check all oil levels again and start her up. Anything else to check over before doing so? Thanks for the link, I will probably just end up at Carquest in town, but it never hurts to ask. Once I get this going 100 percent I still need to tackle my overheating/water pump issue...1 thing at a time....
  8. Yeah I get the ends off I’ll bring to a hydraulic shop and see what they recommend and keeep everyone posted. I learned a lot about this machine thanks to you guys
  9. Yeah I’m no stranger to Harbor freight that’s for sure, plus they warrantee most their stuff anyways. When I look to have a new hose made, doesn’t actually need to be a hydraulic hose? I know it has to be strong enough to not collapse but they sure don’t give away hydraulic hose these days. I know I need it and it is what it is. Any suggestions?
  10. All right guys, happy to report back that I found a completely deteriorated and severed suction hose. In the photos it connects to the TEE on the right-hand side and also to the top left Side of the suction filter housing. I removed the belly pans I was able to reach my hand up and start feeling around and that is when I found this line in the middle have literally cracked in multiple places. I was physically able to pull off this one foot section of the hose. all right guys, happy to report back that I found a completely deteriorated and severed suction hose. Once I borrow some big enough wrenches I will remove both hose ends and have a new hose made. Looks to be about 2 inch to 2 1/8” wrench needed. I want to thank everyone on the form for your help. I will try and piece the host together to get an Accurate hose length number, but does anyone know where I could actually find the original hose length, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of room for error! If this does not fix the problem, I quit and someone can have the machine!!
  11. Got it thanks, I am on my way to the farm now and will let you know my findings in the next couple hours. Thanks guys
  12. Awsome, thanks for taking the time to explain all that. Just curious, what do you mean by a -16 or -18 size line? I’m assuming it’s probably like a 1” or bigger line. I just want me make sure I’m understanding correctly and that we are on the same page. Thank you
  13. Thank you for the advice, today after work I’m going to follow the steel lines from the suction strainer and check for hairline cracks as just as you say. Can you explain in further detail where or how the lines run to the tank. I’m going to remove the suction strainer again and ensure that the O ring is in good condition. I may also seal it up with some type of gasket maker. Also, where exactly is the charge pump that could potential he be sucking air? Do I need to remove the belly pans and look from underneath? I’m going to check for leaks first before I start taking apart valve bodies. It looks like the valve body is right near the test ports? thanks a lot!
  14. Hey guys, spent several hours working on the machine today. I was able to get my main clutch pressure up to 190 pounds. I tried to attach a picture to show as it was climbing. I am 100% getting air in the system somehow. I am not always able to maintain pressure of 190 pounds sometimes I have zero. When I have zero at the main pressure port, I put the factory cap on and hold in the nipple to bleed the air out for several minutes until I get a solid strong stream of oil. I then have to put the gauge back on. I was able to get the machine to move about 6 inches but I had to stop it because I had tools on the tracks. Once I moved the tools I lost the prime and I was back to square one. This all tells me that I have a suction leak somewhere. However, I cannot find my manual diagrams of how the suction actually occurs and where I start checking first. As everyone recalls, my suction screen has been thoroughly cleaned. I am going to make a 1/4” tee with a ball valve bleeder to get the air out and a braided hose so I stop spraying more and more engine oil all over the transmission and spray it into a bucket. I will be back at it tomorrow and start looking for suction leaks.... I know this is a lot of information but if anyone rather just called me to speak about it please do. 413-575-1426. Thanks a lot guys, look forward to your ideas
  15. Hey guys, I got back to working on the 175C. When I take the pressure filter off and run the engine I have good flow of oil coming out of the filter housing. When I put the pressure filter on and started the engine I still have no movement. I then remove the pressure filter and it was air bound under pressure. EDIT!! Filter was backwards!!! When I get back to the farm today I am thinking of installing the filter, running the engine and cracking the Upperline trying to purge air. Do you guys think I have airlock in the system? Possibly remove the fill cap on the right-hand side of the seat to remove air? I will also put gauges on but do not want to damage anything trying to run the machine starving parts for oil . Thanks guys I really look forward to getting it going again!! !!
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