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Daniel Altman

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About Daniel Altman

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stewart, TN
  • Interests
    Have a 135 acre cattle ranch. Love restoring tractors and anything really. I have a Ford 5000 that my great grandfather bought new in the restoration process right now, a Ford 5000 with Massey loader that's next on the list, and the new to me first red tractor, Case IH 7140. Love God, Jesus, and Family! And looking forward to retirement at the old age of 38! HA!

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  1. I sold my CIH 7140 and bought I smaller NH TD5030 MFWD with TL810 loader. Kicking myself everyday for that. Long story short, I have an injury and row cropping after retirement is out of the question. But hay and cows are not. The NH doesn’t have enough power for hills and is severally lacking in weight. I’ve slid many a times last year down hill with the JD baler. Local dealer has a 2004 MXM 190 MFWD with 3300hrs. They sold it new and it has been extremely well taken care of. The owner has quit row crop operations and is selling on consignment. I’ve searched and found most have had electrical gremlins and transmission issues. Dealer is working on pulling the service history for me. But I’m assured it’s only had minor work recalling from memory. I’ll be looking at it in a couple days. I’d use it for baling and general ranch chores. Nothing real taxing at all. Should I give it a look over or pass? Any feedback is very much appreciated. Pics attached.
  2. Figured it out. Conducted a continuity test from harness plug to cab and beyond. All was good. Plugged the EGT back in and no change. So, I plugged in the old EGT. No change. Then I decided to inspect the plug in which I SHOULD have done in the first place! Arghh!!! Dummy! I suspected the pins were pushing out when plugged in after looking at it and noticing they were loose. Added some jumpers wires across the pins and everything is back to normal. Fixed the plug and system normal light is green once again and staying green! Lesson learned; check the darn plug first, Daniel! And now I have a spare EGT! Can’t complain though as it only cost $80.00 compared to $153.00 at the dealer. And I have replaced the cab solenoid and power distribution post. Even have a spare solenoid on hand!
  3. The exhaust system is fine. I have checked the exhaust temperature with a temp laser gun. All is within working temperatures. I do not have a high exhaust temperature problem.
  4. Well, I have ran into yet another head scratcher. EGT is flashing on the dash and the alarm will not shut up. It will flash and sound the alarm, then stop and I get a green system normal light for 10-15 seconds, then flashes again and alarm goes off. Very irritating as it does this over and over. I replaced the EGT with new OEM part last night and no change. Ohmed the thermocoupler and it’s fine. I did not heat the probe and check for voltage. I’m assuming I should do that next? I’m also assuming, I may have a continuity issue in the engine harness up to the plugin on bottom of the cab? What am I missing here? Thanks.
  5. Y’all scared me on this. I removed the extra from my Magnum and put it back at normal. I just assumed with hills I’d need to overfill like my Ford 5000’s. Thanks for the insight.
  6. Is it a matter of both potentiometers having the same voltage at a specific hitch position?
  7. You’d have to ask Maynard or SDman. Sorry, I can’t help you their.
  8. I overfilled my CIH 7140 by 5 gallons because I’ll be baling, mowing, hay cutting on some good sized hills here in middle Tennessee. I keep my loader tractor 5 gallons overfilled as well.
  9. 6-7 and 12-13 harsh sounding shift is normal. Trans is changing ranges between those shifts. For the other, I had the same issue. Took both accumulators to my dealer and they charged them to 140psi and leak tested them. Shifts great now.
  10. Maynard is this a dealer only fix? Closest to me is over an hour away. It’s $125 hr for a service call including travel to and from. I bought this tractor to bale with and some light 3pt tillage when I need it. And why would it have worked perfectly before the repair. Will soldering the wires cause intermittent voltages issues with the potentiometer? Thanks, Daniel.
  11. Mice chewed up the trans, upper cab, and hitch wiring harnesses. I’ve repaired them all and continuity tested each wire. I now have 3 hitch fault codes. Turn the key on and I get this ordered: B or 8?, 4, and then it stays on H. Fuse and relays are good. It worked perfectly before I made the repair to the bare wires. I’ve searched with not to much luck on how to fix this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The UP/Down switch will allow me to raise it UP but not down. I unplugged the bottom potentiometer and plugged it back in while running. The hitch moved up a few inches and that was it. Thanks.
  12. I just ran into this problem. Cleaned grounds and it didn’t work. Ohm’d both senders and there dead. Good luck!
  13. So I searched for adjusting the F-N-R cable on the TCV of my Case IH 7140. I didn’t have any luck so I sent SDman a PM. Thought I would share with others that may need to do this. Thanks again, SDman! “I'll tell you the easy way to adjust the FNR cable. First, pull the shifter handle out of Park into the neutral area between the forward and reverse quadrants. Slap it side-to-side from forward to reverse and vice-versa until the handle comes to its "neutral rest" position(that's what I call it, anyways). The shift handle should line up straight with the slot for park(if you lost forward direction, the shifter handle will probably be biased towards the forward gear slot). Now, adjust the tower of the shift cable down by the TCV valve until the shifter handle lines back up with the park slot and then tighten your jam nut and small bolts you loosened to turn the shift tower. Should be good to go.”
  14. All State Ag Parts, Abilene Machine or Bates Corp should have one.
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